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M17R Rubberband Gun

Creation's quality: 5.0/5 (2 votes)
Evaluation of members on the printability, utility, level of detail, etc.

3D model description

Here is the next installment in my collection of rubberband guns. This one is based on the Sig Saure P320/M17. Like my other designs it prints in place, no assemble, no glue, just remove the supports and fire.

Below is a link to the rubber bands this is designed for. If you use stronger rubber bands, or load more than four shots it may result in failure of the rotor.

Alliance Rubber 96315 Advantage Rubber Bands Size #31 , 1 lb Box Contains Approx. 850 Bands (2 1/2" x 1/8", Red)

Because this is a highly detailed replica of an actual firearm, only print it bright colors to avoid it being mistaken for the real thing.

If you don't heed the warning above please print the orange tip and glue it to the muzzle.

3D printing settings

Layer Height: 0.2

Supports: From build plate only, if you are using custom supports ensure to support the rotor and the axle is spins on. Also remove any supports that extend up into the body as they will be difficult to remove.

4 shells

Infill: 10%

Orient the model so that the barrel is pointed upward and tilted at a 15 degree angle towards the top of the gun as seen in the picture.

Block in the beaver tail with support material to keep it from breaking loose.

Cura Custom Supports:

  • 3D file format: STL
  • Last update: 2020/03/11 at 00:10
  • Publication date: 2020/01/18 at 22:23



Designs 18
Downloads 2k
Followers 175

Hi, my name is Walt, I am a Retired United States Marine. Thanks for checking out my designs. If you want to see more of my designs and prints check out my Instagram @waltswoodworksand3dprinting, or watch my videos on YouTube @waltswoodworks3d.



Collection associated with this 3D model

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Add a comment


Not to my knowledge, but I think on a well tuned maching it would work. The minimum clear space is 0.3 mm at 100% so at 90% you should still have 0.27mm clearance. I would recommend scaling it, then sinking it below the build plate in the slicer to so that the handle is below the build plate. Print a few mm then stop it. If you are able to seperate the parts when you remove it from the build plate it should be good.

I have also had people print successfully at angles of up to 27 degrees if that helps.

This is too big for my Prusa Mini. Has anyone successfully printed this at 90%?

Jeromy96, thanks for the review, please post a make. And post and tag me on Instagram if you have one. @waltswoodworksand3dprinting

I used the settings listed in the description and did not have any problems. You just need to make sure that you completely remove all of the supports from the hammer wheel. Then I took the spatula/scraper that came with my printer and wedged it between the slide and frame of the gun to break apart the supports holding them together. It didn't take that much force, I basically just wedged it inbetween. Then I was able to pull the slide back.

Good luck. It is a really fun print.

I rarely use Cura, but make sure that you change the support settings from "everywhere" to "from build plate only". If you are experiencing a lot of stringing that can gum up everything as well. Finaly I cant remember if Cura has a setting to "merge all outlines" but if so make sure it is turned off. Message me on IG @waltswoodworksand3dprinting or on gmail

can you share your cura full settings?. I printed the gun but it does not move :( I did with your suggested settings wihtout result

No, it bridges over fine.

there is no need for support inside the ammo chamber of the gun?

Thanks for the review! Please post a make on here and if you are on Instagram share and tag me @waltswoodworksand3dprinting

What a great model. This was such an easy print and I especially love that there is no assembly or additional non print parts that are required. Just print, remove supports, and it's ready to go. Plus, this pistol has such a realistic look and great feel to it. Great job and thanks!

They are functionally the same. The 1911 has one more moving part, the hammer, and it is still my most downloaded model.

Apart from the looks, are there any functional improvements over the 1911R model? I prefer the look of the 1911R, but if you'd improved the mechanism somehow in this latest version, I'll go with this one.

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