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WW3D 1911R Rubber Band Gun

Creation's quality: 4.5/5 (18 votes)
Evaluation of members on the printability, utility, level of detail, etc.

3D model description

Loading and Firing

Post Processing

Cura Custom Supports

Here is the ultimate 3d printed rubber band gun. Modeled after a Colt Government Series 1911, the WW3D 1911R prints in place. That is right, no assembly, no glue, no screws. Just remove the supports load and fire. I have included a removable magazine and collapsible targets that fit in the magazine for easy storage. It fires #31 rubber bands so no need to spend money on over priced "rubber band gun ammo".

Below is a link to the rubber bands this is designed for. If you use stronger rubber bands, or load more than four shots it may result in failure of the rotor.

Alliance Rubber 96315 Advantage Rubber Bands Size #31 , 1 lb Box Contains Approx. 850 Bands (2 1/2" x 1/8", Red)

*Because this is a highly detailed replica of an actual firearm, only print it bright colors to avoid it being mistaken for the real thing.**

3D printing settings

Layer Height: 0.2

Supports: From build plate only, if you are using custom supports ensure to support the rotor and the axle is spins on. Also remove any supports that extend up into the body as they will be difficult to remove.

4 shells

Infill: 30%

Orient the model so that the barrel is pointed upward and tilted at a 15 degree angle towards the top of the gun as seen in the picture.

Depending on your layer height, and your machine tolerances you may need to sand the edges of the rotor in order to remove the layer steps and allow for smooth operation.

  • 3D file format: STL
  • Last update: 2020/02/26 at 00:16
  • Publication date: 2019/03/13 at 02:02





Hi, my name is Walt, I am a Retired United States Marine. Thanks for checking out my designs. If you want to see more of my designs and prints check out my Instagram @waltswoodworksand3dprinting, or watch my videos on YouTube @waltswoodworks3d.

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If you have a lot of stringing that can gum things up. Try putting a putty knife in the gap between the top and bottom and gently pry to loosten it. Does the hammer and rotor move?

The model prints our really nicely but the top part is not moving. I'm just using supports of the build plate, what other things should I be looking for in configuring?

Absolutley, put some custom supports from the trigger to the trigger guard they should pop right out and eliminate that problem.

Great model. I have tried printing a couple of times now. Using Simplify3D to slice and printed on an Octoprint/CR10SPro combo. Using all the settings you have described. The model prints great until the trigger. When it starts printing the trigger the thin start of the trigger starts to curl up every time and then the print fails the the hotend/fan hits it. I have tried the print a few times, have sliced it with and without the cooling fan on through the trigger layers. The room the printer is in is closed, no fans/aircon so no drafts or uneven air temp to cause the curling.
Do you think it would be possible to put supports under the trigger and get them out post print? Or do you have any other suggestions?

With the recommended settings it takes around 23h with the magazine. PLA or PETG works fine. The biggest factor is you need your retraction settings tuned so that you have no stringing or else it will gum up the internal moving parts.

How long did your print take with the settings mentioned in the description?
Do you reccoment PLA or PETG?
Btw. great model.


Well done on both the model and the nameplay

  1. Make sure you are doing supports from build plate only.

  2. Make sure you have your retraction settings good, no stringing.

  3. Check your extruder calibration, if you are over extruding you will fill in the gaps between parts.

the model printed too fused together. snapped the barrel in half trying to free up the slide. any suggestions to get this thing printed without fusing together?

So far I've (successfully) printed 4 of these for office warfare. They've been fun! Unfortunately they've all encountered the same fate after a while. Each has eventually broken at the base of the rotating part the rubber bands connect to. Maybe in future revisions, this could be strengthened?

Nevertheless, fun functional print (That might just get me fired!)

If that is the case I would recommend printing the 0.3mm tolerance version since I assume a SLA printer will have tighter tolerances than my Creality machines. Be sure to post pictures, I cant wait to see it. Tag me on IG @waltswoodworksand3dprinting.

bridging works just as good as on FDM machines. the moai from peopoly should handle the size just fine. i guess it would print fine then on a SLA machine, i will investigate further before i try though.

I dont know about an SLA machine. Can they "bridge" like a FDM machine. Also most SLA machines I have seen are too small.

Do you think this will print fine on a SLA machine?

I use the default support settings for Simplify 3D, the supports are the main reason I switched. If you are using Cura or another slicer I cant really help you out. My supports on Cura were always difficult to remove, and I haven't used Cura in over a year. As far as the Mag, there should be a version with nubs that will hold better. If that doesnt work you can heat and flatten the bottom back edge of the mag, (the one closest to the back of the grip when inserted) This will create a small lip that wedges it in place.

Are you able to share your support settings? I've managed to print it, but it doesn't seem anywhere as easy to remove the supports compared to your video.

I also had the same issue as sectionut using a mk3.

The one I have printed is great :) Just need to print another (it's no fun being the only armed person...)

I am glad you like it, if you are on Instagram post some pics and videos and tag me. @waltswoodworksand3dprinting

I'll play around with it and see what I come up with. Thanks for the time you've invested in this. Much appreciated

If the mag is loose, that means your machine is better than mine. Mine get loose over time when the layer lines wear down. You can heat the back bottom edge of the mag and mash it a little to create a small lip that will wedge it in at the bottom.

Printed this with a MK3 with it on a 27 degree angle to fit the build area. All went pretty smooth and it functions just fine. Any specifics for the magazine? Mine seems to want to fall out.

I designed this in Fusion 360 and I use Simplify3D to slice. I have started learning Solidworks recently.

what software do you use?

It has been a while since I have used Cura, I think the setting is outer shell thickness, set it to 2mm and you will be good.

I'm printing this on an ender 3 and im not sure what i should use for the "shell" on cura, are there specific measurements that i should put in for this? sorry im still pretty new to this whole thing. Cura doesnt let you adjust the shell as a number atleast not that i know of. Thank you, awesome model!!

Required build volume is X 185mm, Y 35mm, Z 215mm scaling it down to 93% to get it below 200mm may be possible depending on the tolerances of your printer. I will test it out on my Ender 3 next week and let you know it goes.

What is the required build volume for this model?

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