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WW3D 1911R Rubber Band Gun

Download 3D model WW3D 1911R Rubber Band Gun, WW3DDownload 3D model WW3D 1911R Rubber Band Gun, WW3DDownload 3D model WW3D 1911R Rubber Band Gun, WW3DDownload 3D model WW3D 1911R Rubber Band Gun, WW3DDownload 3D model WW3D 1911R Rubber Band Gun, WW3D

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3D model description

Loading and Firing

Post Processing

Here is the ultimate 3d printed rubber band gun. Modeled after a Colt Government Series 1911, the WW3D 1911R prints in place. That is right, no assembly, no glue, no screws. Just remove the supports load and fire. I have included a removable magazine and collapsible targets that fit in the magazine for easy storage. It fires #31 rubber bands so no need to spend money on over priced "rubber band gun ammo".

Below is a link to the rubber bands this is designed for. If you use stronger rubber bands, or load more than four shots it may result in failure of the rotor.

Alliance Rubber 96315 Advantage Rubber Bands Size #31 , 1 lb Box Contains Approx. 850 Bands (2 1/2" x 1/8", Red)

I added a new version with 0.3 mm clearance between the moving parts vice the 0.6mm clearance in the original. Use this version if you think your printer can handle those tolerances, or if you are printing with soluble supports.

*Because this is a highly detailed replica of an actual firearm, only print it bright colors to avoid it being mistaken for the real thing.**

3D printing settings

Layer Height: 0.2

Supports: From build plate only, if you are using custom supports ensure to support the rotor and the axle is spins on. Also remove any supports that extend up into the body as they will be difficult to remove.

4 shells

Infill: 30%

Orient the model so that the barrel is pointed upward and tilted at a 15 degree angle towards the top of the gun as seen in the picture.

Depending on your layer height, and your machine tolerances you may need to sand the edges of the rotor in order to remove the layer steps and allow for smooth operation.

  • 3D model format: STL



Designs 15
Downloads 817

Hi, my name is Walt, I am an active duty United States Marine. Thanks for checking out my designs. If you want to see more of my designs and prints check out my Instagram @waltswoodworksand3dprinting, or watch my videos on YouTube @waltswoodworks3d.



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So far I've (successfully) printed 4 of these for office warfare. They've been fun! Unfortunately they've all encountered the same fate after a while. Each has eventually broken at the base of the rotating part the rubber bands connect to. Maybe in future revisions, this could be strengthened?

Nevertheless, fun functional print (That might just get me fired!)

If that is the case I would recommend printing the 0.3mm tolerance version since I assume a SLA printer will have tighter tolerances than my Creality machines. Be sure to post pictures, I cant wait to see it. Tag me on IG @waltswoodworksand3dprinting.

bridging works just as good as on FDM machines. the moai from peopoly should handle the size just fine. i guess it would print fine then on a SLA machine, i will investigate further before i try though.

I dont know about an SLA machine. Can they "bridge" like a FDM machine. Also most SLA machines I have seen are too small.

Do you think this will print fine on a SLA machine?

I use the default support settings for Simplify 3D, the supports are the main reason I switched. If you are using Cura or another slicer I cant really help you out. My supports on Cura were always difficult to remove, and I haven't used Cura in over a year. As far as the Mag, there should be a version with nubs that will hold better. If that doesnt work you can heat and flatten the bottom back edge of the mag, (the one closest to the back of the grip when inserted) This will create a small lip that wedges it in place.

Are you able to share your support settings? I've managed to print it, but it doesn't seem anywhere as easy to remove the supports compared to your video.

I also had the same issue as sectionut using a mk3.

The one I have printed is great :) Just need to print another (it's no fun being the only armed person...)

I am glad you like it, if you are on Instagram post some pics and videos and tag me. @waltswoodworksand3dprinting

I'll play around with it and see what I come up with. Thanks for the time you've invested in this. Much appreciated

If the mag is loose, that means your machine is better than mine. Mine get loose over time when the layer lines wear down. You can heat the back bottom edge of the mag and mash it a little to create a small lip that will wedge it in at the bottom.

Printed this with a MK3 with it on a 27 degree angle to fit the build area. All went pretty smooth and it functions just fine. Any specifics for the magazine? Mine seems to want to fall out.

I designed this in Fusion 360 and I use Simplify3D to slice. I have started learning Solidworks recently.

what software do you use?

It has been a while since I have used Cura, I think the setting is outer shell thickness, set it to 2mm and you will be good.

I'm printing this on an ender 3 and im not sure what i should use for the "shell" on cura, are there specific measurements that i should put in for this? sorry im still pretty new to this whole thing. Cura doesnt let you adjust the shell as a number atleast not that i know of. Thank you, awesome model!!

Required build volume is X 185mm, Y 35mm, Z 215mm scaling it down to 93% to get it below 200mm may be possible depending on the tolerances of your printer. I will test it out on my Ender 3 next week and let you know it goes.

What is the required build volume for this model?

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