Sovol SV08 MAX Top Riser: 3D Printed corners + laser cut acrylic panels

The official Sovol enclosure for the SV08 MAX is a stunningly good-looking case, but contrary to Sovol’s claim of only taking away 100mm of Z-height, we found it actually limits the build height by a pretty substantial 150mm.

This is a combination of 3D-printed and laser-cut acrylic parts. The transparent acrylic lets plenty of light in, and it makes the entire riser incredibly light-weight.

The 4 panels are each 625x1504x3 mm (sides 613x154x3mm), included as STL (front, left, back, right), and also as DXF / SVG / LBRN2 format for Lightburn.

If you don’t have a CO2 laser capable of cutting the transparent acrylic PCBWay expands the range of DIY projects we can tackle, saving us from having to own expensive and rarely needed machines. They complete laser-cut projects like this in a matter of weeks, so we'll be able to take you through the installation of this riser in a follow-up video very soon.

You can order your custom-cut acrylic panels. Just send them the file panels.dxf

If you do have a smaller laser cutter, you can cut 8 corner pieces out of wood or other material to temporarily hold together the 3D printed parts as I did, and maybe use transparent film or paper to fill in for the panels, until your size-cut acrylic panels arrive.

The 3D printed parts (about 1kg of ABS/ASA/PETG):

► 4 corners (secured to the top frame of the printer)
► 4 bridges (secured to the upper edges of the panels)
► 4 supports (secured to the top frame of the printer and the bottom center of the panels)

Even the long bridges should fit the build plate of the MAX diagonally), they are a challenge to print because of warping though)

For now, hold off on printing the 3D parts until my panels arrive and I have a chance to update them to perfectly match the laser-cut pieces. I will update this post when they do.

You’ll also need some screws and heat-set inserts:

► 15× M3x10 (or slightly longer x12 x14 should also fit)
► 32x M3x6 (for the panels x5 or x7 should also fit) (same set)
► 42× M3x4.5 heatset inserts
+ original screws

Watch my video on the preliminary design and installation to be posted on my YT channel: gerGO PRINT 3D

Updates:

Included an updated version of the Z3 column that includes a hole for the wiring (and its half-plug) if you decide to add iHeaters like I did → https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KfKujRUKnWg

Included connecting variants of the corners and bridges. These include little nubs and receivers. There is also a connecting variant of the Z3 with the hole for the chamber heater wires. If you choose to print this variant, make sure to print all 8 of this variant (4 corners + 4 bridges).

Orient the 3D printed parts as they appear in the included 3MF file, with manual supports under the raised bottom parts. Print them from something that can withsand 60°C or higher, at least PETG. I printed mine using a 0.6mm nozzle out of ASA: 20-25% infill, 3-5 walls, 5-6 top/bottom layers.

VERY IMPORANT: When printing the four long "bridge" components: you will have to scale them up (uniformly) to account for the thermal shrinkage of the filament you are using. Even if you plan to print it out of PETG, it's low 0.4-0.8% shrinkage would cause 1-2 mm shift in the screw holes. That shrinkage is 1-2% in case of ABS (!). So, if the four bridges are printed out of:

• PETG = scale them up uniformly to 100.5%
• ASA = scale them up uniformly to 100.7%
• ABS = scale them up uniformly to 101%

But this is very much material dependent. It's best if you print just one of them for test and adjust the scaling accordingly. I will talk more about this in the upcoming dedicated video about the project.

If you source the size-cut rectanglar acrylic panels locally, you can also drill holes on them manually. I recommend PCBWay as they can do the complete lasercutting job including the holes.