184 comments

Hi, thanks for getting in touch. That particular bridge was a custom project for a friend, designed to be transportable in a big truck which already made it quite large for my RCs.

Creating an extended, tank-capable version is a really interesting engineering challenge. While it's not on my immediate plan, I've added your idea to my project list as a potential concept for the future.

I appreciate the suggestion!

Hi, I guess you are talking about this one: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/1-10-realistic-rc-driver
That one includes the 3 heads and the seat with the steering wheel you can use to test the driver

Hi Jason, thanks for reaching out. I design things that I use and that I can test and make sure that everything works as expected.

It doesn't seem complicated and it could be a great start in case you want to try to design something. There are some easy and free tools you can use. I would recommend trying Tinkercad: https://www.tinkercad.com

Thank you for your reply. I have tried blender and I downloaded the file and imported a file from https://makerworld.com/en/models/1423351-10-inch-rack-mount-for-kvm-switch#profileId-1479162. This file was super close in size but just a bit narrow in the length 75mm and I need 77mm and the Hight (opening) 22mm and I need 28mm. I've watched countless videos on how to use the blender program with little success. So now I'm just trying to find someone who is faster at it then I am. It doesn't have to be perfect. I don't know if you would be willing to adjust someone else file to fit my needs but I'm at a loss. Thanks Again Jason

Blender is a nice program but it has a steep learning curve. Modifying a design sometimes can take longer than making it from scratch. I don't have much time but I will try to make something when I find some (hopefully this week). Is there a way to talk about this in an easier way? I have Instagram, don't know if you have it too. If so, please send me a message there, I think it can be easier for both of us.

Hi, I'm not sure about what interior you are talking about. Can you post a link?

https://cults3d.com/pt/modelo-3d/jogo/1-10-interior-for-mitsubishi-pajero-montero

Oh, I see. I used it in an Axial SCX10-II but to make it work in a TRX4 you may need to make changes.

Hi, that model does not have any joints. It has 2 different files, one with just half body (without legs) and one with the complete body. I have 3 models 1/10 scale that have joints (in case you want to have a look):
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/1-10-realistic-rc-driver
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/turning-head-rc-driver-with-movable-arms
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/1-10-crash-test-dummy-figure-ragdoll-robroy07

Hi, I'm sorry that you are having problems with the model. Just to be sure about the issue, the problem is the download from cults3d?

Hi, unfortunately there isn't enough space for the battery inside if you use this interior. I tried when I made the design but I wanted to make a realistic interior and I couldn't make it work. In my LC70 I keep it in a box on the truck bed.

Hi, all the models here are digital downloads that you can print using a 3D printer (usually different files). I'm not sure I understand what you mean about body armor, do you mean bumpers?

Body armor is metal panels that go over your existing front and rear quarter panels on a 1:1 but obviously plastic on a 1:10. If you google xj body armor several pics should be available, I have a screenshot but can't post.

Oh, I see. Thanks for the heads-up. I haven't seen any of those but I would suggest making them yourself with plastic textured sheet (there are metal and plastic). https://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/textured-sheets/670-abs-plasticard-thread-diamond-ho-075mm-textured-sheet.html

You can cut it using scissors and glue them or use some screws to the body.

Not a bad idea! Thank you.

Hi, I'm glad that you like it. It's the first time someone tells me that it's expensive, I guess it really depends on the country.

Sim, o problema que 1 dolar vale 5,40 reais e tudo fica 5x mais caro.

Wow, I see what you mean, that's a lot :(

Hi, I'm sorry that you are having problems printing them. Are you using supports? If you are not that could explain the problem you are having. If that is not the case and you are using supports, can you please give me more details?

Yes tried with support. When it start filling in the middle that where it get all mess up. I tried like 10 of them and getting the same issue every time I even tried different filament just in case still same issue

That's weird. I have printed lots of them without any issues so far. Have you tried cleaning the bed with dish soap? Using warm water and dish soap works wonders on the printer bed. Sometimes if the bed is dirty (even touching it with the fingers) it may prevent filament to stick to the bed.

Hi! I'm glad you like them. At the moment I'm working on a big RC project and trying to wrap up a few others, so I don’t have much free time. I’d love to expand the collection though so perhaps in the future

Hi, the model includes just the upper part of the body. You will need to buy a head (there are many 1/6 scale size heads) and a body.

Hi, sorry that you had some trouble with that. I bought my screws here: https://aliexpress.com/item/1005003624454209.html

There you should be able to buy the 3 different types. M1.4, M2.5 and M1. It's quite cheap and works very well. Please let me know if this works for you.

Thank you so much for the clarification. If you had a link for the magnets please let me know as well. I really appreciate the information and the quick reply.

No problem, I'm happy to help and sorry that the link is not working. That shop seems to be gone. I found out a similar ones that should work: https://aliexpress.com/item/1005009489030231.html

Hi! I used PLA+ for the whole interior except for the "Dashboard Panel.stl" that I used a resin printer (I asked a friend since I don't have one at the moment). Let me know if you have any other questions or if you find any issues with the interior.

Hi, I wouldn’t recommend doing it. Let me explain why. I have two different models, and both of them include a gap inside the body to place a servo. When you scale the model down, that gap becomes smaller and the servo won’t fit anymore.

You could try mounting the servo outside the body, but you’d need to figure out how to do that (drilling a hole, attaching the servo, etc.). In that case, I have two models that can move both the arms and the head, but I would only recommend trying it with this one: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/1-10-realistic-rc-driver. In this model, the arms are made of separate parts connected with a 3D-printed zip tie, though you could also use a thin wire or rope. The arms in the other model (https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/turning-head-rc-driver-with-movable-arms) are printed in a single piece, and I think that would cause problems.

Hola, la plantilla A5 tiene una pequeña tolerancia para que las piezas encajen entre sí. Con el problema que describes es posible que tengas que hacer una calibración en la impresora. Te recomiendo que imprimas un cubo de calibración XYZ y que hagas los ajustes necesarios para que las medidas del cubo sean las correctas.

Hi Anthony! I'm really glad you like it, although I'm not quite sure what a "1100014 Toyota" is 😅.

So far, I've only made interiors for the LC70 and LC80. I don’t have any other models at the moment, so I’m not currently planning to create interiors for other versions.

Hi! Don’t worry, we’ve all been there. The planner disc does need supports, but which ones work best for you really depends on a few factors: the model’s orientation, your printer, your filament...

For a quick test, I’d recommend printing a planner disc with one of its flat sides facing down on the bed, using standard supports (avoid tree or organic supports).

The most common issue is removing the supports cleanly, so you’ll probably need to experiment a bit. Depending on the filament (I’m assuming you’re using an FDM printer) and your machine, support removal might be easier or trickier and that can affect the final look of the model.

Thank you so much for taking the time to answer. I’ll give it a try as soon as I’ll have a few calm minutes.

Always happy to help, feel free to reach out if you need anything else!

Hi, unfortunately I don't have it. I wish I had since that could have helped me a lot in many designs. I found a model in the past for the SCX10 and it's very similar to that, perhaps you can use that too. I think it was on thingiverse but that was quite a long time ago.

did end up finding that one seems to be fairly accurate. thanks

Glad you found it. The holes change a little bit but I think that was the biggest change.

Hi! I've seen your profile and since your prefered language is Spanish I think it can be easier for both to move to Spanish. Esperaría que aunque la impresora sea para niños, las articulaciones las imprima bien. Es posible que sea un problema relacionado con la forma en la que se imprime o los soportes. Es importante mantener la posición original a la hora de imprimirlos. No sé si puedes imprimir utilizando soportes tipo árbol pero para este caso viene muy bien. Pongo una imagen para que puedas ver a lo que me refiero: https://ibb.co/CpCN6ySf

Hi, that is a great build and looks really good so far. Unfortunately I cannot share those files since I have been working a lot of time in those. Sorry for not being of much help here but I hope that you understand.

Hmmm, the chair is almost the same, just needs the logo. The model is not think enough to include a logo and that could be a problem. I think that the easiest solution could be to add a logo as a sticker using vynil.

Ok thank you