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Dummy radial engine. Pratt & Whitney R2800

Download 3D printer files Dummy radial engine. Pratt & Whitney R2800, tahustvedtDownload 3D printer files Dummy radial engine. Pratt & Whitney R2800, tahustvedtDownload 3D printer files Dummy radial engine. Pratt & Whitney R2800, tahustvedtDownload 3D printer files Dummy radial engine. Pratt & Whitney R2800, tahustvedtDownload 3D printer files Dummy radial engine. Pratt & Whitney R2800, tahustvedtDownload 3D printer files Dummy radial engine. Pratt & Whitney R2800, tahustvedt

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3D model description

News - 08.03.2018:

I added a slightly modified front dummy engine, R-2800-04, which has a slightly larger inside diameter for better motor clearance.


News - 21.02.2018:
Added a backside for the radial, and a part that works as a second bank behind the first bank of cylinders. The backside can be added to the second bank piece as well and it's possible to assemble as many banks as desireable behind the original front bank of ylinders.


Semi-scale model of Pratt & Whitney R2800 radial engine for rc model airplane use. Way more convincing than vacuum formed dummy engines.

Designed for my 1:7.5 scale RC ESM F7F Tigercat.
Diameter: 166 mm.
Inside cavity large diameter: 61mm - 57 mm inside the joiner ring.

The model can be scaled up or down to fit your model.

For personal use only, not for resale.

3D printing settings

I recommend printing with no infill for reduced weight.
I recommend 0.2mm layers up to 23 mm height and 0.08 mm layers above 23 mm height for quick print speed, and good quality.
Two outlines is enough.

No support is needed. The pushrod tubes require decend bridging performance to come out as good as the photo. They can easily be trimmed if they don't come out perfect though.

  • 3D model format: STL

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Norwegian inventor/designer/cat owner.

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47 comments

Bonjour.
Tout d'abord, félicitation pour cette magnifique réplique de ce moteur. Je l'ai imprimé à 78,6% de sa taille avec le logiciel CURA 4.2. Il fait 130,54mm de diamètre extérieur, mais j'ai un problème pour faire passer mon moteur par le puits intérieur. Il faudrait qu'il fasse 56mm de diamètre intérieur. Impossible de modifier le fichier.
J'ai imprimé le moteur avec ses 4 parties différentes. Je suis prêt à vous payer la modification de vos fichiers. Serait-il possible de me les faire parvenir.
Cordialement, Christian.

I used a Wanhao Duplicator i3 and Simplify 3D. Any slicer and printer big enough will print it.

Can you please tell me what slicer and printer was used?

I require at least 2 engines about 1/15 scale ( 3 inch outside diameter ) or 4 if possible to configure a pair of double WASP engines. These are impossible to find and I do not have a 3D printer.
Could you fabricate these for me and if so what would you charge. I hope I can impose upon you to help me with this project.
Larry Duckert
Seattle, WA.
USA

Perfect! Thanks Tahusvedt.

Hi, James. I added a file called "crankcase01.stl".

Hi Tahusvedt, great work on the R2800. I have downloaded this model, but I only need the crank case as I already have dummy cylinders. I have tried to edit the STL file, convert it to a solid, etc. but with no luck. I wonder if you can send me just the crank case only without the cylinders? Thanks, James.

Hi Tahusvedt!

I am impressed by the design of your R2800. I don't have access to a 3d printer but if possible, I would be interested in purchasing 2 printed copies, scaled to 1/18 (exact diameter provided once I recieve my 1/18 F4U). If this is a feasible option, let me know and we can work out pricing for the models and shipping here to US. I look forward to the possiblity of purchasing these products.

Regards,

John Cicchino

Hi Tahusvedt : Thank you for your answer. How can I contact you directly to discuss this please ?

Hi, Woody. It can be scaled to any scale if you have a printer big enough, but it would probably not look very good in a huge size as it deviates from the full size engine in the number of heat sink ribs and other detail and resolution, since it's so small that thinner ribs would not print at this scale.

Hi Tahusvedt :
Can you contact me by private mail please about your dummy radial engine ? I have some questions I would like to ask regarding upscaling etc.
Many thanks,
Woody

Hi there. This looks fantastic!!!! Where /how can I get one, please? What is the maximum size this can be scaled to, please?
Can it be scaled up to, say about 1000 mm (1meter) at all, or is this too difficult? I know nothing about 3D printing but would like to have one that size. Can you help , Please?
Many thanks!!

It was printed on a Wanhao Duplicator i3.

What printer was used for this Dummy radial?

Fantastic man, thanks a million! Great work and service :)
I'll spread the word!

I added a new design with the changes you requested. The inside diameter is now bigger and almost touches the ledge which caused problems before.

I can, and I did, no problem.
But in order to have the edge I mentioned earlier come out good, the 3d hub is telling me he'll has to use infill or a much thicker top layer.
And when using infill, I am thinking I can no longer cut out the inner nose, can I? And when using a ticker top layer, I'll probably loose detail (and gain weight).

Can't you just cut out the inside surface? If the model is printed without infill it will be easy to remove the inside cone.

Hi there.
Can I please ask you for a small favor, as a fellow RC model flyer? :)
I am having trouble getting my rc motor into the nose, because the inner nose is so much smaller than the outer nose.

Could you -please- be so good as to make the inner space roomier, by making the inner nose follow the same curve as the outer nose? Thus reducing the wall thickness, so that I have more room I have for my motor....

I use regular PLA. The printer used for these models is an old Wanhao Duplicator i3.

Are you an expert on 3d printing? What printer do you use? Your print seems 'smoother' than mine.

Clarification: It needs extra layers to build up that area when it gets to it when the model is printed with 0% infill.

The model is several mm thick in that area. If you end up with a see through model there then you probably need a few extra top layers.

Hi there.
I had your design printed twice. Once on 1:1 and once with a tiny upscale to 18cm diameter.
It looks really handsome. Currently I am in the proces of integrating this print in my corsair. Quite a job, but worthwhile, due to being soo goodlooking.

There is once thing that is not 100% on the design, or so it seems at printing.
The part where the nose is bolted to the crankcase (near the cylinders), doesn't print very well. It seems as if the wall is too thin there, and gaps surface.
Maybe you can have a look if this is a weak area, that needs some more attention?

I never give away my 3DS Max design files. You can change the STL in any mesh software.

It's designed to be printed in an FDM printer without support.

I downloaded. It seems the new design, that's cool.
Is it normal that I only receive the STL print file, not the original design file, for in case I want to perform changes? The latter would be a plus.

I will try to find a good printer hub!
Can I use a normal 3d printer, or should I use this liquid printer method (I forgot the name)?

The diameter is 166 mm. It can be scaled up in the slicer off course. If it's scaled down then it may need a smaller nozzle than 0,4 mm due to the thickness of some detail. The inside cavity diameter is 61 mm, or 57 mm if the joiner ring or extra second cylinder bank is installed. My printed first row model with frontand back modeled weighs 161 g.

It's a universal model so it will require adaptation to your model, and I can't say for sure if it will fit as I don't have that plane or motor myself.

I still recommend printing then with no infill. All mine were printed hollow. The front half benefits from using higher resolution from the 23mm level as described.

It looks awesome man! hahahaha, nice job!

You're right about the cylinder. I read it somewhere recently (they said: 'they intended to limit oil spill so they prevented the cylinder from pointing down vertical') and I hadn't checked it against my scale photo's. I just checked and youre 100% right: there's one pointing down indeed. MF!

Are the printing settings you mention still the same? What's the print quality? Any indication towards weight of the entire thing (with one cylinder row)?

Obviously this should be going on my (H9) corsair or P47, with a scorpion SII 4035 motor, which is 50mm diameter.
What diameter will the entire thing be, if the inner opening is ~60mm diameter? And how far forward can the motor go (which depending on curve and thickness design of the forward part of crankcase)?

I added a photo of the back of the first cylinder bank.

Pratt & Whitney designed it with one cylinder pointing down. R-2800

The front and back halves are not the same. One of the photos shows the different parts laid out beside each other.

Hi there! You're quick!
Do you have some more detail photo's of the cylinder? I am having trouble interpreting what I see. Am I correct in assuming you made the cylinder out of 2 halves put together?

BTW, Is there one cylinder pointing straight downward? Because this is one of the 7 deadly sins.... 2 downward cylinders should each be 10 degrees out of the vertical.

I updated the design now with both a backside model, and a second row of cylinders which slots into the back of the other models.

Wow man, that's quick, great work! I'm very curious! Looking forward to see the new and improved radial!

I have made a printable rear piece now and will upload once I have test printed everything. I also made a second cylinder bank part that plugs into the back. I'll post pictures when it's printed, which will take a day or two.

My model isn't 100% accurate, but as far as dummy engines go it's pretty good I think.

You're right about the wires. That's probably a much better idea. Cudos.

But you should definately design the full (front row) cylinders! One of the reasons I dislike the typical plastic pseudo engines that ARF's include, is the fact that there's only half of the cylinder. That's besides the lack of scale details ofcourse.
Please let me know if/when you extend your design. Then I'll buy a download.BTW, there's a wonderfull extremely detailed model here:
3dsmolier.com/3ds-model/radial-engine-pratt-and-whitney-r-2800
unfortunately that's not a printable verson.

You're right about the wires. That's probably a much better idea. Cudos.

But you should definately design the full (front row) cylinders! One of the reasons I dislike the typical plastic pseudo engines that ARF's include, is the fact that there's only half of the cylinder. That's besides the lack of scale details ofcourse.
Please let me know if/when you extend your design. Then I'll buy a download.BTW, there's a wonderfull extremely detailed model here:
http://3dsmolier.com/3ds-model/radial-engine-pratt-and-whitney-r-2800
unfortunately that's not a printable verson.

You're right about the wires. That's probably a much better idea. Cudos.

But you should definately design the full (front row) cylinders! One of the reasons I dislike the typical plastic pseudo engines that ARF's include, is the fact that there's only half of the cylinder. That's besides the lack of scale details ofcourse.
Please let me know if/when you extend your design. Then I'll buy a download.BTW, there's a wonderfull extremely detailed model here:
http://3dsmolier.com/3ds-model/radial-engine-pratt-and-whitney-r-2800
unfortunately that's not a printable verson.

I see what you mean. It's possible to print an extra partial dummy and glue on the back but it won't be a full model. I designed it for my need and there wasn't room for more in my plane. I will consider designing a printable back part for it.

I designed it to install wires by drilling small holes in the printed faces and glue the wires in. It was very easy to install wires this way.

That's a shame. I'd like to have the full cylinders...This gives it a little more realism on the plane.

Also, small practical thing: for connecting the 'wires' from the front of the cylinder to the 'ring' around the crankcase, you could add small pins. This will facilitate a wire (I use the outside of a electric wire) slipping over.

Sorry, no. I haven't modeled the back om the engine.

Hello there. I am looking at your R2800 design.
It looks good. I would like to try this. But I would prefer the (first row of) cylinders to be complete (not cut off at 50% depth). Do you also sell the extended design?
Kind regards!

I purchased a pair of these museum quality models of the radial engine for my radio controlled ESM Tigercat. These are the best scale radial engine replicas available. They will be positioned in each cowling just ahead of the electric motors to simulate the look of the 1:1 Tigercat's Pratt & Whitney R-2800-34W Double Wasp radial engines.

TAHUSDTVETD is the talent behind this rendering. 3D printing rules.

KBP
Major USAF
Retired


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