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Smoothed and Stackable V4 (NO GAPS) - More Comfortable Version of Protective Visor by 3DVerkstan

Creation quality: 4.4/5 (7 votes)
Evaluation of members on the printability, utility, level of detail, etc.

3D model description

๐๐Ž๐“๐„ ๐Ž๐ ๐’๐“๐€๐‚๐Š๐„๐ƒ ๐•๐„๐‘๐’๐ˆ๐Ž๐: ๐‘๐„๐€๐ƒ ๐ˆ๐๐’๐“๐‘๐”๐‚๐“๐ˆ๐Ž๐๐’ ๐๐„๐‹๐Ž๐– ๐Ž๐‘ ๐ˆ๐“ ๐–๐ˆ๐‹๐‹ ๐Œ๐Ž๐’๐“ ๐‹๐ˆ๐Š๐„๐‹๐˜ ๐…๐€๐ˆ๐‹!

I remodeled it to remove all sharp edges (that would dig into your forehead while you're wearing this for long shifts).

I also modeled a stacked version that REQUIRES NO GAPS. Gaps are complicated to get right and come out messy. This one just has mainly 1 setting you need to get right, comes out clean, can be printed with any nozzle size and at most layer heights (tested from 0.2mm to 0.6mm layer heights).

This stacked version uses less filament/prints faster and comes out much cleaner than most other stacked versions.

๐’๐“๐€๐‚๐Š๐„๐ƒ ๐•๐„๐‘๐’๐ˆ๐Ž๐ ๐ˆ๐๐’๐“๐‘๐”๐‚๐“๐ˆ๐Ž๐๐’ (๐–๐ˆ๐‹๐‹ ๐Œ๐Ž๐’๐“ ๐‹๐ˆ๐Š๐„๐‹๐˜ ๐…๐€๐ˆ๐‹ ๐ˆ๐… ๐˜๐Ž๐” ๐ƒ๐Ž๐'๐“ ๐‘๐„๐€๐ƒ ๐“๐‡๐ˆ๐’):

(Stacks of 2-30 are in zipped folders)

๐„๐๐€๐๐‹๐„ ๐“๐‡๐ˆ๐ ๐–๐€๐‹๐‹๐’!!!
๐„๐๐€๐๐‹๐„ ๐“๐‡๐ˆ๐ ๐–๐€๐‹๐‹๐’!!!
๐„๐๐€๐๐‹๐„ ๐“๐‡๐ˆ๐ ๐–๐€๐‹๐‹๐’!!!

^If you don't enable thin walls in your slicer, the print will fail. You need to have external thin walls enabled. This is because this model needs to print a thin, single wall in between each part.

๐‹๐š๐ฒ๐ž๐ซ ๐ก๐ž๐ข๐ ๐ก๐ญ๐ฌ ๐ญ๐ก๐š๐ญ ๐ฐ๐จ๐ซ๐ค:
- ๐ŸŽ.๐Ÿ๐ฆ๐ฆ
- ๐ŸŽ.๐Ÿ๐Ÿ’๐ฆ๐ฆ
- ๐ŸŽ.๐Ÿ๐Ÿ“๐ฆ๐ฆ - ๐ซ๐ž๐œ๐จ๐ฆ๐ฆ๐ž๐ง๐๐ž๐ ๐Ÿ๐จ๐ซ ๐ŸŽ.๐Ÿ’๐ฆ๐ฆ ๐ง๐จ๐ณ๐ณ๐ฅ๐ž๐ฌ
- ๐ŸŽ.๐Ÿ‘๐ฆ๐ฆ - ๐ซ๐ž๐œ๐จ๐ฆ๐ฆ๐ž๐ง๐๐ž๐ ๐Ÿ๐จ๐ซ ๐ŸŽ.๐Ÿ’-๐ŸŽ.๐Ÿ“๐ฆ๐ฆ ๐ง๐จ๐ณ๐ณ๐ฅ๐ž๐ฌ
- ๐ŸŽ.๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ•๐Ÿ“๐ฆ๐ฆ - ๐ซ๐ž๐œ๐จ๐ฆ๐ฆ๐ž๐ง๐๐ž๐ ๐Ÿ๐จ๐ซ ๐ŸŽ.๐Ÿ”-๐ŸŽ.๐Ÿ–๐ฆ๐ฆ ๐ง๐จ๐ณ๐ณ๐ฅ๐ž๐ฌ
- ๐ŸŽ.๐Ÿ’๐ฆ๐ฆ - ๐ซ๐ž๐œ๐จ๐ฆ๐ฆ๐ž๐ง๐๐ž๐ ๐Ÿ๐จ๐ซ ๐ง๐จ๐ณ๐ณ๐ฅ๐ž๐ฌ ๐ฅ๐š๐ซ๐ ๐ž๐ซ ๐ญ๐ก๐š๐ง ๐ŸŽ.๐Ÿ–๐ฆ๐ฆ
- ๐ŸŽ.๐Ÿ“๐ฆ๐ฆ
- ๐ŸŽ.๐Ÿ”๐ฆ๐ฆ

๐–๐€๐“๐‚๐‡ ๐Œ๐˜ ๐•๐ˆ๐ƒ๐„๐Ž ๐–๐ˆ๐“๐‡ ๐ˆ๐๐’๐“๐‘๐”๐‚๐“๐ˆ๐Ž๐๐’ ๐€๐๐ƒ ๐’๐„๐๐€๐‘๐€๐“๐ˆ๐Ž๐ ๐“๐„๐‚๐‡๐๐ˆ๐๐”๐„๐’:

๐’๐ญ๐š๐ซ๐ญ ๐จ๐Ÿ๐Ÿ ๐ฐ๐ข๐ญ๐ก ๐•๐Ÿ’ ๐ฐ๐ข๐ญ๐ก ๐ญ๐ก๐ž ๐ŸŽ.๐Ÿ‘๐ฆ๐ฆ ๐ญ๐ก๐ข๐ง ๐ฐ๐š๐ฅ๐ฅ - it works for most nozzle sizes. There's one for layer heights of 0.2-0.4mm and another for layer heights of 0.5 and 0.6mm. If you see bridging across the curves (see photo), try increasing your temperature or extrusion multiplier slightly. If that doesn't work, try the stack that has a 0.4mm thin wall. If the parts stick together too well, try the 0.2mm thin wall version (all files are labeled accordingly).

๐–๐€๐‘๐๐ˆ๐๐† #๐Ÿ: TEST THE STACK OF 2 FIRST! You want to make sure it works before you start a stack of 5-30. Start with 2, then 3, then 5, then 10, and so on so you don't waste time or plastic.

๐๐Ž๐“๐„: You can set your minimum extrusion width down to 24-50% of the nozzle width and you can set you maximum extrusion width up to 200% of your nozzle width.

๐ˆ๐ง ๐ฒ๐จ๐ฎ๐ซ ๐ฌ๐ฅ๐ข๐œ๐ž๐ซ, ๐ฒ๐จ๐ฎ ๐ฌ๐ก๐จ๐ฎ๐ฅ๐ ๐ฌ๐ž๐ž ๐๐Ž ๐†๐€๐๐’ ๐›๐ž๐ญ๐ฐ๐ž๐ž๐ง ๐ญ๐ก๐ž ๐ฉ๐š๐ซ๐ญ๐ฌ ๐ž๐ฑ๐œ๐ž๐ฉ๐ญ ๐Ÿ๐จ๐ซ ๐ญ๐ก๐ž ๐ž๐š๐ฌ๐ฒ-๐จ๐ฉ๐ž๐ง ๐ ๐š๐ฉ (๐š ๐ฌ๐ฆ๐š๐ฅ๐ฅ ๐ ๐š๐ฉ ๐ญ๐ก๐š๐ญ ๐š๐ฅ๐ฅ๐จ๐ฐ๐ฌ ๐ฒ๐จ๐ฎ ๐ญ๐จ ๐ข๐ง๐ฌ๐ž๐ซ๐ญ ๐š ๐Ÿ๐ฅ๐š๐ญ-๐ก๐ž๐š๐ ๐ฌ๐œ๐ซ๐ž๐ฐ๐๐ซ๐ข๐ฏ๐ž๐ซ [๐จ๐ซ ๐ฌ๐ข๐ฆ๐ข๐ฅ๐š๐ซ] ๐Ÿ๐จ๐ซ ๐ž๐š๐ฌ๐ฒ ๐ฌ๐ž๐ฉ๐š๐ซ๐š๐ญ๐ข๐จ๐ง). ๐’๐ž๐ž ๐ฉ๐ก๐จ๐ญ๐จ ๐ž๐ฑ๐š๐ฆ๐ฉ๐ฅ๐ž ๐ข๐ง ๐ข๐ฆ๐š๐ ๐ž๐ฌ.If you see only a gap between the parts, it means you do not have thin walls enabled (watch the video).

^That is the most important setting for printing these stacks, but here are some other basic settings that help:

๐’๐Ž๐Œ๐„ ๐Ž๐“๐‡๐„๐‘ ๐ˆ๐Œ๐๐Ž๐‘๐“๐€๐๐“ ๐’๐„๐“๐“๐ˆ๐๐†๐’:
- Infill: You may see small holes in the flat part of the print where it bridges/infills. If you do, increase your infill extrusion width until those little holes go away (only seen in prints, not slicer). You can set infill percentage to 0% though as long as you have enough top and bottom layers.

  • ๐ƒ๐Ž ๐๐Ž๐“ ๐”๐’๐„ ๐’๐Š๐ˆ๐‘๐“! This creates an additional piece that you have to rip or cut off and often leaves sharp points that can puncture skin. If you're having bed adhesion issues, you need to find another solution besides skirts.

  • Optimize start points for fastest printing speed.

  • Outline/Perimeter Shells: 2-4 on a 0.8mm nozzle or 2-8 on a 0.4mm nozzle.

  • Top and bottom solid layers: Just set both to something like 20. The idea is just to make the part solid.

  • Brims are optional. If you have a purge command (where it wipes away plastic ooze before it starts the print), then you probably don't need it.

  • ๐๐Ž ๐’๐”๐๐๐Ž๐‘๐“๐’! Do not print with supports on.

  • Outline Direction: Outside-in (starts with outer layer then does inner layers next).

  • Bridging angle: 90 degrees (or whatever makes the bridging angle parallel to the parts (for shortest bridging distance).

๐–๐€๐‘๐๐ˆ๐๐†: ๐”๐’๐„ ๐๐‘๐„๐‚๐€๐”๐“๐ˆ๐Ž๐ ๐–๐‡๐„๐ ๐’๐„๐๐€๐‘๐€๐“๐ˆ๐๐†!!! Knife safety 101: Never cut towards yourself, always cut away from yourself. Besides, this one should not require much force at all, it's more about twisting. Watch the video :)

The plastic shield can be made out of any semi-stiff plastic sheet between 0.1 and 1mm, including overhead film, cover sheets for binding machines etc, as long as it is available in a suitable format. We're using the Letter Size PVC Binding Covers that you can find at office supply stores or online (most common).


The templates for punching the holes are also attached (can use a 3 hole punch for expediency).

You need at least a 160x190mm build area to print these.

Big thanks to Alaukik Bhatt for going back and forth with me on this design and thanks to everyone else that helped test it out and gave feedback. Feel free to comment if you have suggestions or problems printing the stacks.


Erik Cederberg / 3DVerkstan

3D printing settings

Pour obtenir de l'aide sur les paramรจtres d'impression :

3D printer file information

  • 3D design format: PDF, STL, SVG, and ZIP Folder details Close
    • 0.2-0.4mm Layer Height Stacks - 0.2mm Wide
    • 0.2-0.4mm Layer Height Stacks - 0.3mm Wide Wall -
    • 0.2-0.4mm Layer Height Stacks - 0.4mm Wide
    • 0.5-0.6mm Layer Height Stacks - 0.2mm Wide
    • 0.5-0.6mm Layer Height Stacks - 0.3mm Wide Wall - RECOMMENDED for Large
    • 0.5-0.6mm Layer Height Stacks - 0.4mm Wide
    • FS_Frame_NA_LETTER_6-Hole_v4_Single_No-Stack.stl
    • US_6_Hole_Template_by_Joel_Telling.pdf
    • US_6_Hole_Template_by_Joel_Telling.svg

    Learn more about the formats

  • Last update: 2020-05-01 at 18:45
  • Publication date: 2020-03-31 at 21:23





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