Skip to content

Smoothed and Stackable V4 (NO GAPS) - More Comfortable Version of Protective Visor by 3DVerkstan

Creation's quality: 4.4/5 (7 votes)
Evaluation of members on the printability, utility, level of detail, etc.

3D model description

๐๐Ž๐“๐„ ๐Ž๐ ๐’๐“๐€๐‚๐Š๐„๐ƒ ๐•๐„๐‘๐’๐ˆ๐Ž๐: ๐‘๐„๐€๐ƒ ๐ˆ๐๐’๐“๐‘๐”๐‚๐“๐ˆ๐Ž๐๐’ ๐๐„๐‹๐Ž๐– ๐Ž๐‘ ๐ˆ๐“ ๐–๐ˆ๐‹๐‹ ๐Œ๐Ž๐’๐“ ๐‹๐ˆ๐Š๐„๐‹๐˜ ๐…๐€๐ˆ๐‹!

I remodeled it to remove all sharp edges (that would dig into your forehead while you're wearing this for long shifts).

I also modeled a stacked version that REQUIRES NO GAPS. Gaps are complicated to get right and come out messy. This one just has mainly 1 setting you need to get right, comes out clean, can be printed with any nozzle size and at most layer heights (tested from 0.2mm to 0.6mm layer heights).

This stacked version uses less filament/prints faster and comes out much cleaner than most other stacked versions.

๐’๐“๐€๐‚๐Š๐„๐ƒ ๐•๐„๐‘๐’๐ˆ๐Ž๐ ๐ˆ๐๐’๐“๐‘๐”๐‚๐“๐ˆ๐Ž๐๐’ (๐–๐ˆ๐‹๐‹ ๐Œ๐Ž๐’๐“ ๐‹๐ˆ๐Š๐„๐‹๐˜ ๐…๐€๐ˆ๐‹ ๐ˆ๐… ๐˜๐Ž๐” ๐ƒ๐Ž๐'๐“ ๐‘๐„๐€๐ƒ ๐“๐‡๐ˆ๐’):

(Stacks of 2-30 are in zipped folders)

๐„๐๐€๐๐‹๐„ ๐“๐‡๐ˆ๐ ๐–๐€๐‹๐‹๐’!!!
๐„๐๐€๐๐‹๐„ ๐“๐‡๐ˆ๐ ๐–๐€๐‹๐‹๐’!!!
๐„๐๐€๐๐‹๐„ ๐“๐‡๐ˆ๐ ๐–๐€๐‹๐‹๐’!!!

^If you don't enable thin walls in your slicer, the print will fail. You need to have external thin walls enabled. This is because this model needs to print a thin, single wall in between each part.

๐‹๐š๐ฒ๐ž๐ซ ๐ก๐ž๐ข๐ ๐ก๐ญ๐ฌ ๐ญ๐ก๐š๐ญ ๐ฐ๐จ๐ซ๐ค:
- ๐ŸŽ.๐Ÿ๐ฆ๐ฆ
- ๐ŸŽ.๐Ÿ๐Ÿ’๐ฆ๐ฆ
- ๐ŸŽ.๐Ÿ๐Ÿ“๐ฆ๐ฆ - ๐ซ๐ž๐œ๐จ๐ฆ๐ฆ๐ž๐ง๐๐ž๐ ๐Ÿ๐จ๐ซ ๐ŸŽ.๐Ÿ’๐ฆ๐ฆ ๐ง๐จ๐ณ๐ณ๐ฅ๐ž๐ฌ
- ๐ŸŽ.๐Ÿ‘๐ฆ๐ฆ - ๐ซ๐ž๐œ๐จ๐ฆ๐ฆ๐ž๐ง๐๐ž๐ ๐Ÿ๐จ๐ซ ๐ŸŽ.๐Ÿ’-๐ŸŽ.๐Ÿ“๐ฆ๐ฆ ๐ง๐จ๐ณ๐ณ๐ฅ๐ž๐ฌ
- ๐ŸŽ.๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ•๐Ÿ“๐ฆ๐ฆ - ๐ซ๐ž๐œ๐จ๐ฆ๐ฆ๐ž๐ง๐๐ž๐ ๐Ÿ๐จ๐ซ ๐ŸŽ.๐Ÿ”-๐ŸŽ.๐Ÿ–๐ฆ๐ฆ ๐ง๐จ๐ณ๐ณ๐ฅ๐ž๐ฌ
- ๐ŸŽ.๐Ÿ’๐ฆ๐ฆ - ๐ซ๐ž๐œ๐จ๐ฆ๐ฆ๐ž๐ง๐๐ž๐ ๐Ÿ๐จ๐ซ ๐ง๐จ๐ณ๐ณ๐ฅ๐ž๐ฌ ๐ฅ๐š๐ซ๐ ๐ž๐ซ ๐ญ๐ก๐š๐ง ๐ŸŽ.๐Ÿ–๐ฆ๐ฆ
- ๐ŸŽ.๐Ÿ“๐ฆ๐ฆ
- ๐ŸŽ.๐Ÿ”๐ฆ๐ฆ

๐–๐€๐“๐‚๐‡ ๐Œ๐˜ ๐•๐ˆ๐ƒ๐„๐Ž ๐–๐ˆ๐“๐‡ ๐ˆ๐๐’๐“๐‘๐”๐‚๐“๐ˆ๐Ž๐๐’ ๐€๐๐ƒ ๐’๐„๐๐€๐‘๐€๐“๐ˆ๐Ž๐ ๐“๐„๐‚๐‡๐๐ˆ๐๐”๐„๐’:

๐’๐ญ๐š๐ซ๐ญ ๐จ๐Ÿ๐Ÿ ๐ฐ๐ข๐ญ๐ก ๐•๐Ÿ’ ๐ฐ๐ข๐ญ๐ก ๐ญ๐ก๐ž ๐ŸŽ.๐Ÿ‘๐ฆ๐ฆ ๐ญ๐ก๐ข๐ง ๐ฐ๐š๐ฅ๐ฅ - it works for most nozzle sizes. There's one for layer heights of 0.2-0.4mm and another for layer heights of 0.5 and 0.6mm. If you see bridging across the curves (see photo), try increasing your temperature or extrusion multiplier slightly. If that doesn't work, try the stack that has a 0.4mm thin wall. If the parts stick together too well, try the 0.2mm thin wall version (all files are labeled accordingly).

๐–๐€๐‘๐๐ˆ๐๐† #๐Ÿ: TEST THE STACK OF 2 FIRST! You want to make sure it works before you start a stack of 5-30. Start with 2, then 3, then 5, then 10, and so on so you don't waste time or plastic.

๐๐Ž๐“๐„: You can set your minimum extrusion width down to 24-50% of the nozzle width and you can set you maximum extrusion width up to 200% of your nozzle width.

๐ˆ๐ง ๐ฒ๐จ๐ฎ๐ซ ๐ฌ๐ฅ๐ข๐œ๐ž๐ซ, ๐ฒ๐จ๐ฎ ๐ฌ๐ก๐จ๐ฎ๐ฅ๐ ๐ฌ๐ž๐ž ๐๐Ž ๐†๐€๐๐’ ๐›๐ž๐ญ๐ฐ๐ž๐ž๐ง ๐ญ๐ก๐ž ๐ฉ๐š๐ซ๐ญ๐ฌ ๐ž๐ฑ๐œ๐ž๐ฉ๐ญ ๐Ÿ๐จ๐ซ ๐ญ๐ก๐ž ๐ž๐š๐ฌ๐ฒ-๐จ๐ฉ๐ž๐ง ๐ ๐š๐ฉ (๐š ๐ฌ๐ฆ๐š๐ฅ๐ฅ ๐ ๐š๐ฉ ๐ญ๐ก๐š๐ญ ๐š๐ฅ๐ฅ๐จ๐ฐ๐ฌ ๐ฒ๐จ๐ฎ ๐ญ๐จ ๐ข๐ง๐ฌ๐ž๐ซ๐ญ ๐š ๐Ÿ๐ฅ๐š๐ญ-๐ก๐ž๐š๐ ๐ฌ๐œ๐ซ๐ž๐ฐ๐๐ซ๐ข๐ฏ๐ž๐ซ [๐จ๐ซ ๐ฌ๐ข๐ฆ๐ข๐ฅ๐š๐ซ] ๐Ÿ๐จ๐ซ ๐ž๐š๐ฌ๐ฒ ๐ฌ๐ž๐ฉ๐š๐ซ๐š๐ญ๐ข๐จ๐ง). ๐’๐ž๐ž ๐ฉ๐ก๐จ๐ญ๐จ ๐ž๐ฑ๐š๐ฆ๐ฉ๐ฅ๐ž ๐ข๐ง ๐ข๐ฆ๐š๐ ๐ž๐ฌ.If you see only a gap between the parts, it means you do not have thin walls enabled (watch the video).

^That is the most important setting for printing these stacks, but here are some other basic settings that help:

๐’๐Ž๐Œ๐„ ๐Ž๐“๐‡๐„๐‘ ๐ˆ๐Œ๐๐Ž๐‘๐“๐€๐๐“ ๐’๐„๐“๐“๐ˆ๐๐†๐’:
- Infill: You may see small holes in the flat part of the print where it bridges/infills. If you do, increase your infill extrusion width until those little holes go away (only seen in prints, not slicer). You can set infill percentage to 0% though as long as you have enough top and bottom layers.

  • ๐ƒ๐Ž ๐๐Ž๐“ ๐”๐’๐„ ๐’๐Š๐ˆ๐‘๐“! This creates an additional piece that you have to rip or cut off and often leaves sharp points that can puncture skin. If you're having bed adhesion issues, you need to find another solution besides skirts.

  • Optimize start points for fastest printing speed.

  • Outline/Perimeter Shells: 2-4 on a 0.8mm nozzle or 2-8 on a 0.4mm nozzle.

  • Top and bottom solid layers: Just set both to something like 20. The idea is just to make the part solid.

  • Brims are optional. If you have a purge command (where it wipes away plastic ooze before it starts the print), then you probably don't need it.

  • ๐๐Ž ๐’๐”๐๐๐Ž๐‘๐“๐’! Do not print with supports on.

  • Outline Direction: Outside-in (starts with outer layer then does inner layers next).

  • Bridging angle: 90 degrees (or whatever makes the bridging angle parallel to the parts (for shortest bridging distance).

๐–๐€๐‘๐๐ˆ๐๐†: ๐”๐’๐„ ๐๐‘๐„๐‚๐€๐”๐“๐ˆ๐Ž๐ ๐–๐‡๐„๐ ๐’๐„๐๐€๐‘๐€๐“๐ˆ๐๐†!!! Knife safety 101: Never cut towards yourself, always cut away from yourself. Besides, this one should not require much force at all, it's more about twisting. Watch the video :)

The plastic shield can be made out of any semi-stiff plastic sheet between 0.1 and 1mm, including overhead film, cover sheets for binding machines etc, as long as it is available in a suitable format. We're using the Letter Size PVC Binding Covers that you can find at office supply stores or online (most common).


The templates for punching the holes are also attached (can use a 3 hole punch for expediency).

You need at least a 160x190mm build area to print these.

Big thanks to Alaukik Bhatt for going back and forth with me on this design and thanks to everyone else that helped test it out and gave feedback. Feel free to comment if you have suggestions or problems printing the stacks.


Erik Cederberg / 3DVerkstan

3D printing settings

Pour obtenir de l'aide sur les paramรจtres d'impression :

  • 3D file format: PDF, STL, SVG, and ZIP
  • Last update: 2020/05/01 at 18:45
  • Publication date: 2020/03/31 at 21:23





Collection associated with this 3D model

Best sellers of the category Tool

Add a comment


So this does work with a 0.6mm nozzle (thank you for this! many do not) but I'm finding I have to sand each of the visor pieces down where the "slot" is after separating the pieces as there are a lot of jagged edges. Any suggestions for this?

I'm having such a hard time getting these to print correctly on my Ender 3 Pros but they work fine on my Prusa.


With a good tuning i can print 1 piece in 30 min in simple quality with thin wall and to adapt the speed.
I will test 2 pieces in same and after much more if needed.

I understand you ask if I would be able to produce big quantities ? If this is the meaning, I have only a little printer with which it takes 2 ours to produce 1 piece. Sorry the inhabitants of EU are too much, I'm 72 old, so I think I won't live long enough to provide for each.

I just printed for free some for aged persons around me and for health & care people.

Can you do this for EU ?

Thank you so much! These are printing awesome on my Ender 3 using Prusaslicer!
I will try the v4 file shortly. Hopefully it will help my bridging issues i have had.

Thanks for answering to my question, it's my fault,I did not make attention to the advise to print small walls.
Now it's OK, very succesfull.
I would be grate if you could give the exact distance between the holes in mm (or inches if mm not available). This could be helpfull to create a drilling template.
Thanks a lot for your help.

I will see what I can do about an EU model but it might be a little while.

Please download and try the latest, V4 stacked models :) It solves a lot of problems including non-sticking second layers, bridging issues, parts sticking together too well, etc. Re-read the instructions and check out the new video.

Thanks for the stacked design, but the second layer do not stick on the first. What coud be the solution with cura cutter ? Any idea ?

This is amazing! Like the previous person mentioned i would love an EUROPE_ISO838 version if possible with the 4 ,mounts?

This looks amazing and would eliminate the issue that I'm having with these on a couple of printers that can't handle the regular stacking method.
Is there any chance you could prepare a stacked file of these for the EU version please?

Would you like to support Cults?

You like Cults and you want to help us continue the adventure independently? Please note that we are a small team of 3 people, therefore it is very simple to support us to maintain the activity and create future developments. Here are 4 solutions accessible to all:

  • ADVERTISING: Disable your AdBlock banner blocker and click on our banner ads.

  • AFFILIATION: Make your purchases online by clicking on our affiliate links here Amazon, Gearbest or Aliexpress.

  • DONATE: If you want, you can make a donation via PayPal here.

  • WORD OF MOUTH: Invite your friends to come, discover the platform and the magnificent 3D files shared by the community!