Ender3 V2 dual 40mm fan hot end duct / fang. Ender 3, Ender3 pro, CR-10, Micro Swiss direct drive
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3D model description
Briss Moto design
Just to make things clear, my designs are protected by copyrights laws. It is not authorized to distribute or sell any of my designs without prior written authorization from myself. Even if you modified my original design. Thank you
-Now compatible with micro swiss direct drive M2601 M2602. You need to print the fang, the spacer and the extruder knob. (will be coming up with a BL touch mount for this configuration in the coming week or 2)
-All models available with integrated LED lights (5mm straw hat LEDs up front and possible to put a 20mm star inside). Both files are available, with or without lights. It's a little more tricky to print the one with lights, has small features.
-Made the mid bolt tab larger, more robust and easier to print (ender 3 pro and microswiss)
-slotted the wire hole for the front fan
-modified the mounting a little for Ender3 & Ender 3 pro. Now a different file than the Ender 3 V2.
-Added a slot for the front fan wires
2021-02-04: Adding a tiny optional add-on part that goes under the hot end fan to complete the duct to get absolute maximum efficiency. leaving this as a separate part from the fang because it would prevent from printing it without support. Just glue it in place after. Compatible with V3 and V4 fang. STL named :BRISS fang V3 V4 flow control.
V4.0 Same geometry as the V3 but with minor improvements for better printability and added a hole for Ender 3 pro (+ BL touch bracket for the 3 pro)
-Added insert in the middle of the part cooling fan to reduce turbulence and help with efficiency.
-Shifted the Fang a little bit to the left for better centering on the hot end
-shortened the hooks a little(mounting points on the right) to make it easier for instalation.
-made the insert for the top fan full again to aid bed adhesion
-added a bridge to join the chimney to the top fan flange to help those with adhesion issues
-made a notch in the hot end cooling duct to help clear the bolt when pivoting it in, easier instalation
-made the hole a tiny bit bigger for the front fan wires, allows to pass some tiny bullet connectors.
-Added a 2nd hole at the back that aligns with the original Ender3 / Ender3 Pro back plate.
-BL touch bracket specific for each versions
2021-01-03 edit: I added the STL for the front fan duct to prevent sucking every debris and filaments from the build plate. Prints without any support, just lay it flat on the fan flange. For installation you need the longer push pins (STL named "holder pin 4020 fan + duct")
V3.0 has much larger ducts than the V2. Flows a lot more air to your parts. The duct is also wider so it cools the part properly when doing straight lines in the Y direction. BL touch brackets specific for each versions
Sleek compact fang allows the use of dual 40mm fans. Easy to print and easy to use, it's a single part that attaches similar to the original fan cover on the Ender 3 v2. Prints up side down with no supports at all. You can use 10 or 20 mm thick fans. I included the STL file for tool less push pins to fix both size of fans but it also has recesses for M3 nuts to bolt both fans on. M3 nuts should have a 5.5mm hex and maximum 2.5mm thickness.
The idea behind this project was to be able to use two silent 4020 fans. Together with my 120mm PSU fan duct noise levels are down to about 50db (15 DB quieter than original) and i still need to change the top fan for a 4020. I used a sunon MF40202V2-1000U-A99 fan (bought on digikey). It is more noisy with M3 bolts than the pushpins tho... seems like it transmits more vibration through stiff bolts. I added a 330 ohm resistor to the sunon hot end cooling fan to reduce speed and noise (brings down the voltage to the fan to about 18v)
Note: it's very compact and a tight fit, i had to remove the silicone sock on the hot end in order to get it in and put the sock back on after. Heater wires tuck in nicely in between both ducts and i made a chimney to tie them in with a cable tie and prevent fatigue failure of the wires. I also made holes on the fan mount face for the wires to go through the inside for a clean installation.
For the doubters, perfect bridging till 40-50mm with the stock 4010 hot end fan on top. Still manages to bridge the 100mm but looks horrible. This is PLA. Would be better with a 4020 fan but that's more than enough for what i need.
Made BLtouch mount that prints separately if needed. This one needs some support tho.
will fit the CR-10 just with the shorter ender3-5 hot end***
Elias did a super nice install video of the fan if anyone wants to have all the details on how to install this.
3D printing settings
IMPORTANT!! You need to use the "LAY FLAT" button in cura to make the flange flat on the bed. Because if you only rotate the model 90degrees, the flange won't be flat and you'll have a hard time printing this. The flange is about 88degrees from vertical so it's not obvious to see. I missed on pointing this out earlier, sorry about that.
0.2mm thickness with 0.4mm nozzle
No support at all
I recommend printing in PETG because it's more flexible and will be easier to assemble on the hot end.
- 3D file format: STL
- Last update: 2021/03/02 at 22:00
- Publication date: 2020/11/23 at 06:29
- ender3 v2
- 4020 fan
- dual 40mm fan
- hot end cooling
- part cooling
- ender 4
- ender 3
Mechanical engineer and motorcycle enthusiast
Motorcycle related stuff enventualy coming. I'm setting up accounts and eventually a web page, etc. Stay tuned.
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