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Creation's quality: 4.6/5 (101 votes)
Evaluation of members on the printability, utility, level of detail, etc.

3D model description

This is my Print in place spring loaded box design! No supports, no assembly, just print and use!

See it in action here:
See it in action here:
See it in action here:

All clearances are 0.3mm or greater, so most household 3d-printers should have no problems printing it. however, if you suspect you might need a little tuning, I did include a test piece to tune your printer!

I created an Instructables about this project going more into detail about the design choices and tricks that I used to make it work, you can find that here:

Use 0.2mm layer height or finer! (this is due to the overhang being designed for it)
The print should be positioned on its side as shown in the video during printing. (gears down)

Please leave your questions and comments in the comment field, and I’ll do my best to answer them.
Every like is appreciated! 😊

3D printing settings

0.2mm Layer height
No suports!

3D printer file information

  • 3D design format: STL Folder details Close
    • PiP-Spring-loaded Box.stl
    • Test_piece.stl
  • Last update: 2020/06/08 at 16:23
  • Publication date: 2020/05/21 at 15:48





Creating things for fun and entertainment!

Check out my social media for sneak peaks and memes:

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Tengan cuidado de subir sus diseños a CULTS, sin previo aviso les bloquea la cuenta, les roba sus STL y no dan respuestas. Lo peor de lo peor. 100% estafadores. Mi usuario es 3drovettas

Be careful uploading your designs to CULTS, without prior notice it locks your account, steals your STLs and does not give answers. The worst of the worse. 100% scammers. My user is 3drovettas

Tried it several times now (extruder calibrated, bed level, temps set for filament, tried different print settings). The result is now nearly perfect but I always fail to get it 100% perfect. The box is not springing open. It gets stuck after moving 2 or 3 mm. When closing I can feel a hard resistance on this spot but I am unable to make out where it gets stuck... I think it happens on the gear.

Printed on a Flashforce Adventurer 3, default settings, test and actual model printed and performed 100%, awesome job

GEEKDAD_3D, same problem here, I will sand too.

If you scale it down by 50% you also halve the tolerances so it would almost be like printing a solid object.

Can this be scaled down? I went down to 50% and it’s not turning.

Very nice!! Printed perfectly first try using PLA and 0.10 resolution on my PRUSA MK3 printer. No sag on the side using all the default configs with Prusa Slicer. Like how you used a double bevel gear set to contain the ring gear.

Thank you!
It works with PETG, but need some cleaning with a knife at bridges

My Voxel is having some issues with the test; the fourth layer is running now, yet it seems a little "iffy". It'd be nice to see some bigger gaps...

Sunshine, I tried teh test print you include with this box and the sunshine gear seems to be fused to the outer frame. I'm using Cura to slice with a layer hight of .15 and a wall thinkness of 1.2 mm wall line count of 3. Am I doing something wrong? The hings for the handle part on the test that moves the smaller gear works perfectly, it's just the larger "sunshine" gear that is getting fused to the frame. You can reach out to me on twitter @cjoptimus or my email

The box is awesome, printed a few out playing with temp. and all came out great, thanks for the stl. Printed in PLA from various vendors temps from 200-225.bed 50. has anyone tried wood PLA filament ? since it has sanding and staining capabilities i bet it would come out great if it holds up. the sag on the top i think is acceptable considering the print and all the contours that hold up nicely
.dropped you a donation today also.

Does this work well with PETG ?

I put support ):

Outstanding design and printed flawlessly, thank you!

I printed this out last night. Looks great but the top when closed just misses latching by less than half a mm and will not latch closed. Maybe I'll try sanding it a bit. Thanks

It's a neat idea, but that supportless roof is a giant mess.

This is a very cleverly worked out project, I've had a lot of fun printing and playing with it, very well thought out.


@bobrob Horizontal expansion shaves of that amount of millimeters from the walls, so if you have a cylinder ø10mm and you have HE -0.1, you will end up with a cylinder with ø9.8mm (it subtracts 0.1mm from both sides)

@cchambers11596 See the instructables link! its basically bridging smaller distances instead of all the way over

Hi Sunshine, I really like your design, I have a question though. How can the top section be printed with no supports and filament not sag?

I really like this design... I'm having a little problem printing it properly. I'm still fairly new to 3d printing and trying to understand all the required adjustments and calibrations. Current problem with this is one is the tips of the gear teeth are touching/stuck to the surrounding ring. It seems to be printing with not enough 'clearance' there. I think I have a reasonably calibrated extrusion rate -- and adjusting flow rate in Cura didn't seem to help. However, I'm printing now with a -0.5 mm (pretty big) Horizontal Expansion setting -- and it looks like that might be working.... I'm interested in other suggestions that I might try for this kind of spacing problem. I'm not entirely clear what this Horizontal expansion is doing, especially given that it is not a percentage, but is an absolute distance measurement.

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