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Print in Place- Distance Measuring Roll Tool

Creation's quality: 4.7/5 (17 votes)
Evaluation of members on the printability, utility, level of detail, etc.

3D model description

This is my Print in Place Distance Measuring Tool!
While not necessarily a precision tool, its just as fun to play with as with a tape measure!

See it in action here:

How to print:
-Use 0.2mm layer height or finer!
-NO supports
-The "point marked" version is slightly easier to print. but still quite difficult.
-Clearances in this part are 0.3mm. add Horizontal expansion compensation as required.

How to use:
-Step 0) Marking and prep: If you chose to print the friction weld version, you will need to friction weld a piece of 1.75mm filament into at-least one of the cycloid holes.
Using a rubber band to avoid the wheel from slipping is a good idea. (see video)

-Step 1) Zero out the tool: make sure the arrow on the grip is pointing straight down at the surface you want to measure. And that the mark (or letter) on the cycloid is in the zero position. (shown in video)

-Step 2) Measure: Roll the tool along the surface. Make sure you chose the correct rolling direction! There are arrows on the top indicating the rotational direction.

-Step 3a) read the "rest" measurement:
See picture, if the wheel doesn't stop with the grip-arrow pointing exactly at the Zero position, you will have to calculate how far past it it rolled. since the Wheel has 17-pins, you simply divide the "number of pins past 0" with 17. in the example shown, its 3 pins past 0. this means our rest is (3/17) X 0.25m

-Step 3b) read the full rotations measurement:
See the last picture. Now that we know our rest, we can rotate the wheel back to zero, and count how many full rotations the wheel has done. this we do by counting the cycloidal marks between our initial mark, and the current zero. in this case its 6. That leaves us with 6 X 0.25m for this step.

-Step 4) add up the rest and full rotation:
no simply ad the 2 together:

(3/17)x 0.25m + 6 x 0.25m=

((3/17)+6) x 0.25m = 1.544m

Check out my social media:

3D printing settings

Use 0.2mm layer height or finer!
-NO supports
-The "point marked" version is slightly easier to print. but still quite difficult.
-Clearances in this part are 0.3mm. add Horizontal expansion compensation as required.

3D printer file information

  • 3D design format: STL Folder details Close
    • Roll-measure ABCD.stl
    • Roll-measure Dots.stl

    Learn more about the formats

  • Last update: 2020/06/08 at 16:22
  • Publication date: 2020/06/05 at 13:46



Creating things for fun and entertainment!

Check out my social media for sneak peaks and memes:

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Mine was stuck as well. After trying to free as much as I could, I ended up putting some paper town around the top handle (so as not to mess up the handle), and used some plyers to spin it. That broke it free after a little force (printed on CR-10 V2)

Great work.
I print it and it worked very nicely.
First it was stuck in place but with a little force it starts moving.

tried this multiple times.. its all welded up. Meshmixer finds loads of errors in the STL file.

Really cool design, Like it!

I got it moving eventually, When prepping I shrunk the part a little, when it got stuck I thought it was cus my parts where now closer together cus of shrinking. Turns out I need to get a small flathead screwdriver and pry each bit. The circle on top needs prying upwards too.

Nice job by the way, nice spinning art

@anthonygonzalez38: same for me too. im not sure how to get this working. Ive tried sanding off the base layer,snapping plastic, changing printer settings to be higher resolution. SLA Anycube Photon S printer, this just comes out as a lump of plastic. Decent paper weight.

hello ive printed out this tool and i cant seem to get it right. the gears seem to get stuck together in the print. im new to this so any advice would be great

I just like watching it spin to a slow roll. Nice job by the way!

this doesn't work on my SLA Anycube Photon S printer. Looks like its designed for FDM printing only. Can someone with a different SLA printer or an SLS printer test this and comment too, please?


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