DP/Lighting cameraman, working in drama and models VFX. Background in electronic and mechanical design, including photographic adapters and accessories.
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I saw that you made a B4 to Micro 4/3 adapter, would it be possible to make a model for Sony E-Mount?
Yes, I was thinking about doing it.. I'll see what I can do.
I see you downloaded the Micro-four thirds version, have you any suggestions for improvement (how was it!)
I downloaded it to try and modify it for e-mount or NEX, but I couldn't.
The new design is now on site. Actually more difficult than expected, as the locking pin exact orientation isn't written anywhere! Getting it wrong would leave the camera off-level when supporting the lens correctly.
I saw that you made a B4 to Micro 4/3 adapter, would it be possible to make a model for Sony E-Mount?
Hi,
I like your works and please upload more works in the future!
And I want to ask if you have any plan to design some EXA adapter, like M42/L39 to exa adapter.
Thank you!
L39 28.8mm flange depth, 39mm dia.
M42 45.46mm flange depth 42 mm dia (and mounting thread extends over 4mm behind the flange)
EXA/Topcon 44.7mm flange depth 41mm dia (and bayonet protrudes 8 or 9mm behind the flange)
So I think it's true to say, without additional optics:
EXA won't go on L39 (because of the protrusion of the bayonet)
EXA might just slip inside a M42 threaded sleeve, but won't go in far enough for infinity focus.
L39 lenses would have to sit about 15mm inside of a EXA mount to achieve infinity focus (not going to happen).
M42 lenses' mounting thread would foul against the EXA mount before getting close enough to the film plane.
--unless I've misunderstood your question! regards B
Hi,
Thank you for your reply!
Sorry for the misunderstanding! I might need to look through more about the flange depth of lenses. I mainly collect exa lenses so I want to see if it's possible to convert exa lens into more flexible mount. Do you have any suggestions on how to make exa lens more flexible over film cameras?
And I want to see if it's possible to design a P6 to exa adapter. I asked Chatgpt about the possibility, and the flange depth of P6 is 74.1 mm, exa is 44.7m, so it seems possible to make an adapter of this.
Thank you!
It's the other way around, lenses with the longer flange depth can (usually) be adapted to cameras with the shorter flange depth. (The classic example is Nikon lenses which adapt to Canon, M42 etc., but none of the common mount lenses will go on Nikon!).
Aside, I made a mistake, EXA could be adapted to L39 (there is at least 4mm of space between the end of the EXA bayonet and the start of the Leica thread). However, my suggestion would be to utilise the bayonet mount of an old broken camera for the adapter, I don't see an easy way of creating the locking mechanism as it involves a spring inside.
I have designed such an adapter before, and also one where a small screw in the adapter stops the lens twisting out of the adapter (but that's not very elegant!). So this new adapter design may be mostly a cut-n-paste!
Thanks and sorry for replying late!
I'm trying to design an adpater from C mount to m26 mount, for ROBOT camera. If lenses with the longer flange depth can (usually) be adapted to cameras with the shorter flange depth, as far as I know, ROBOT m26 flange depth is 31mm and C mount flange depth is 17.526mm. Seems that I need to re-design this......
I always misunderstand the relation between lenses and camera body, thank you!
Me too! Then I try to imagine that the image (at infinity) is going to focus at the lenses (intended) flange depth. If the camera flange is longer... it's not going to reach.
Hi, just checking for (Arri 2B, 2C camera parts) that they are all printed in flexible TPU? Thanks
Hi. The port cover needs to be hard plastic (ABS or PLA). The plug: the larger part I suggest TPU, it’s more like the original rubber plug (and more forgiving trying to get suitable metal connections and wire in). The smaller plug part, I tried both TPU and PLA I can’t remember which I finally put on it, but the logic (PLA) was to make the plug as ridged as possible… but I was surprised how solid the TPU part was anyway (I probably used quite thick outer walls?). There is room for improvement on the plug design I think (like strain relief), but the main problem is making the metal bits.
Obviously TPU (or flexible PLA) is best for the eye piece.
I’d welcome any feedback on prints you make. Regards B
Did you make the XLR version of the ARRI SR battery case? Thanks.
I did look at the idea but there seemed no reliable way of supporting the battery on to the camera, It would have probably needed the bespoke magnets, to stop it falling off. The intent was to provide a connection for anyone who had lost the (expensive!) adapter-spigot... but an extension lead to a battery belt is a better option.
Thanks for the reply. Yes, that adapter is extremely expensive. I just realised that the original adapter has a screw on the side that goes into the camera. Would it be possible to modify your battery case so that it can be not only be secured by the magnets but you also have some sort of tab or something with one of those thumbs screws to secure it to the camera body? Or you have something that screws into that hole that acts as another support for the battery? That way you're not constantly screwing/unscrewing the battery in?
I got some very lightweight LiPo batteries (Tracer) which also have a battery monitor built in. I tried taping some magnets on the battery and then attaching it to the back of the magazine. However, it wasn't very secure at all - it kept on moving and I wouldn't rely on it. The other way I thought it could work is like this... You can get metal mobile phone holders that have camera shoes on them. You can attach this to the front shoe mount (they're flexible in the way they can orientate), just above the viewfinder, and run a cable to XLR input. I might try this to see if it works.
Lighter batteries will certainly help.
My camera is in storage at present, I’ll let you know when I’m able to take some measurements. B
Thanks. My camera is going soon to get serviced.
I have an STL prepared, but untested as a print (Sept 2025) are you printing it yourself or paying for one to be made (in which case it might be better to wait. Instructions updated in the download.
I would have to pay someone to get it printed.
I’ll have to let you know when I’m happy with the print. Sorry for the delay.
No worries.
ok, parts are uploaded, though I would think it's probably expensive to have printed, the battery box is quite large (and maybe bigger than the LiPo batteries need). I could post you my prototypes maybe (are you in the UK?) email vintage-lens at outlook.com
does this file include the camera turret part, I only see the helical part in your images.
Which design are you referring to? (I can't tell from your message)
Hiya, Loving the designs. im new to 3d printed adaptors and i have two very strange requests if you have the time? One is im trying to adapt a canon xl lens to sony e mount and was wondering if you have the capability and the second is i recently got my hand on a B4 lens which i got a b4 to nex adaptor for but it seems i cant focus at infinity is this a easy adaptor for you to make? Many Thanks, Liam Sankey
Hi.
The Canon XL cameras have a 1/4 inch sensor, so the lenses have a very small image circle, they won’t cover a usable area on an E-mount camera. I suspect the flange depth is also too short to allow for an adapter.
Re the B4 lens, there will be a focusing adjustment ring (and locking screw) to collimate the lens. If you put the lens zoom in the middle of its range and adjust the collimating ring, you should get an image at infinity. If it’s focusing closer but not at infinity then the adapter is ‘too long”, but that is unlikely. (The collimating ring is the thin ring next to the lens mount, locked with a thumbscrew).
If your B4 adapter is too long, it will be no more than a mm. Try freelensing it, if it is out by much more than a mm, then it’s not B4 and probably for 1/3 inch sensor cameras (I have made 3D prints for these too).
Hi there, I love your designs. I have a question. I actually rent out my vintage lenses and wanted to put follow-focus gears on them; I see your license and thought I would ask. I am not selling your gear; I am just putting them on my lenses to use with our follow-focus machines. But I thought I would ask if I could have permission. Please let me know. Thank you. Chris Medina
Not a problem, go ahead..
Hi there, Any chance you could do a model for RB/RZ67 lenses to adapt to Sony E mount? Thanks for the consideration.
Such an adapter would be hugely complicated, allowing for the lenses' built in shutter and lack of focus helicoid... and then a limited user base, I'm afraid it's quite low down on my list of projects!
Hello... I printed your Arri S to E/Nex to use with my Sony camera and a Cooke Speed Panchro 32mm SER II with Arri Standard mount. Focus up close works, but nothing but blur beyond that. Any ideas on what could be causing this? Thanks in advance.
Hi, sounds like the print is too long or the lens has not seated in far enough.
Assuming your print is say an FDM in PLA, I often find the 1st couple of layers can vary in thickness depending on how the printer is set up. You would need vernier callipers to check if the print matches the STL (probably not a helpful comment!), but you might find you can sandpaper off a bit across the barrel of the adapter and it will improve the situation.
What is the furthest out you can focus to? and does it change depending on the lens focal length. One of the issues here might be the lens calibration as some will have been set to match a particular camera, which itself may have been out of spec.
Knowing how far out you can focus to will enable me to judge how much the adapter is too long by, and I'll create a shorter STL for one of the parts (aside, the length of the adapter comprised two parts, so errors in a print height may be doubled, I hadn't thought about that... although making the length of the adapter adjustable would be a challenging change to the design).
Another possibility: the securing ring between the two ends of the adapter may be too thick, and stopping the adapter from compressing down to the right length? (try it without, see if it makes a difference).
The more wide angle the lens, generally the more picky the lens is about back focus... so 32mm is probably going to be more sensitive to back-focus errors. However, the focus throw is also quite shallow on wide lenses.. which is a problem if designing the adapter to err on the short side (such the lens can go to infinity and beyond), as you quickly loose close focus.
Whatever... it's fixable! regards B
Thanks, I'll do some tests and measure how far I can focus -- It's not far at all, especially wide open. Stopped down, it improves.
Do you sell the cameflex to Sony e mount adapter?
Hey, I just picked up your Mitchell NC dummy lens files, and I love them, I don't have much 3D printing experience, but I was wondering if you would ever add a 52mm thread mount or something similar to the aperture ring so you could add a ND filter on the front?
The front of the dummy lens is only around 50mm dia, so in order to attach a 52mm filter it needs to be larger. I've added a ring to the print and made two versions, one with a 52mm thread (which may end up being too tight once printed) and one around 52.5mm which will probably print a little looser and easier to fit a filter.
Hi, I do have stl for both sides of such an adapter, would just need to adjust the thickness (of the adapter) and orientation so the handle is in the correct position. However I don’t have an EOS-m camera to test it on so it’s not been a priority. I will try to get around to it!
Hi, sorry to bother but I wanted to know if you have any plan of doing a B4 to EOS-M adapter?
sorry, I might have replied to this in the wrong thread!
I do have stl for both sides of such an adapter, would just need to adjust the thickness (of the adapter) and orientation so the handle is in the correct position. However I don’t have an EOS-m camera to test it on so it’s not been a priority. I will try to get around to it, but it's now 6 months later.. and I'm in the market for a new printer I think.. I'm not printing with the desired accuracy!
Hola, tengo este lente https://luiscortezdesde1979.com/producto/35mm-carl-zeiss-pro-tessar-f3-2-para-contaflex/
Tendrias para adaptar a Canon EF? Gracias.
Hello, i'm here about the cameflex to M4/3 ; i know i found out about your adapter on a youtube video, and i can't find it anymore ; i bought your file and will ask a friend to to it soon but I'd love to have this link so i can show him, thx
Was the Sinar rail support piece made as a support to mount camera rail on tripod or something else? Thank you!
BSW thread is the usual specification for tripod mounts and photographic fixings in general.
The Sinar rail support clamp has a bottoms thread for tripod thread correct?
Yes
Hi there I purchased the Sinar tripod rail clamp file, I was curious as to what size the biggest piece is and what’s the estimated print time for each piece. I need this for my libraries 3d printer checklist form, thank you!
- Jonathan
The pillar is the largest piece, 65.9x84.8x114.4mm typically 60gms with 20% infill. I printed it on a Kodama Trinus about 5 years ago (so my recollection is a bit hazy) and it was an 8 hour print. Sleeve is a 50mm tube 40mm long, 18gms (I did this in TPU). The clamp is 75 long, about 35mm wide, curved but about 10mm thick, 17gms. Both should print in an hour to 90min. The base is 74mm diameter, about 14gms. So I used a slow ild printer, your times should be better!
Hello!
I found a lens with a B4 mount or also known as 2/3, but I can't find an adapter for Nikon-f or fuji-x, is it possible that you made one?
Thank you for your work.
An F mount adapter with infinity focusing is not possible without extra optics, a dumb adapter would only work as an extreme macro lens. A Fuji-X adapter is possible, but I don't have such a camera to test out prints. It would be also possible to use an intermediary mount, eg Fuji-X to Leica-M and then Leica-M to B4 (the latter is on my list of adapters to make at some point!)
the half inch adapter is missing the part where the bayonet fits and fits. if there is the 2/3
The standard B4 and ½inch B4 flanges are the same size, so the STL for the lens-side clamp works for both adapters. It is only the back focus distance and the size of the locking pin that is different.
OK, somethings are different! What is your ½" lens name? (The lens I used, Canon H15ax6 doesn't have the electrical pins on the bayonet).
In this artical it suggests there are two different ½" mounts.
https://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/5862/12-inch-eng-zoom-lenses-and-mounting-solutions/p1
Canon YH19x6.7
I think if the next text is " KTS " then it is the Sony mount (but I'm not 100% sure)
Now I don't think KTS means it's a Sony. But if your lens does have the Sony mount, then the flange distance for the adapter STL is wrong anyway (ie the Camera side part of the adapter, the Sony is 38mm but the standard B4 is 48mm and the B4/½" is 35.74mm). I don't have a lens with a Sony to try. Can you give the full name of your lens (I'm trying to find out what the extra characters mean!)
tomorrow send pic with the exact model number
you can send pictures to vintage-lens @ outlook.com
If you can photograph the mount and clamp-ring in such a way I can see the difference (ie how much to cut away) then we can try a small modification. I can't currently do more than that, as I don't have a Sony ½" lens
CANON YH19x6.7 IRS SY14
see my pictures:
https://transfer.pcloud.com/download.html?code=5Z6WETVZj1Cwy38EEt0Z7gsAZeYLh6BXMHOzcjEuYi4U2Af9LpvSk
OK, nearly..! The cutouts on the clamp ring are currently equally spaced (it looks like they are not on the Sony?).
Do you think if I just made the cutouts (to slide the ring on) wider (and the same for the "shelf" where they reside when clamped) that would be enough?. Or is the diameter of the flanges also larger?
ok see new pictures
https://transfer.pcloud.com/download.html?code=5Zjn3TVZj1Cwy38EEt0Z7gsAZ7NCpB7aqei4gEENUBenJBXGVjWx7
Ive bought a Fujinon A16x9.5 for Sony camera, so will look at this again fairly soon.
Does your ECLAIR/CAMEFLEX ADAPTER TO M4/3 fit on a Kinoptik Paris Tegea 5.7mm F/1.8 in cameflex mount?
It would fit, I think, but the kinoptic 5.7mm has no focusing ability.. so the focal distance set by the print is unlikely to be ideal. Usually I’d design the print to allow the lens to go slightly over infinity. It allows the user to judge where correct infinity is, and allows for some variation in printer accuracy. The Kinoptic however needs to be spot on. I could do another STL eg slightly shorter if you find the lens is focusing too close.
Thanks for addressing the fixed focal distance! Would a helicoid design be possible for this lens? Or an even simpler design to move the lens forward/back and fix with a locking mechanism, or grub screws even, if a helicoid is impossible.
Also, how much would you charge for a specific 5.7mm design?
Hi how are you?
we print the b4 to m43 lens adapter and it happens that we are missing the piece that supports the 1/2 inch bayonet,
i need b4 1/2 half inch to m43 adapter
The standard B4 and ½inch B4 flanges are the same size, so the STL for the lens-side clamp works for both adapters. It is only the back focus distance and the size of the locking pin that is different.
I have a 2/3 lens and a 1/2 lens.
the ring with the dolls fits exactly in the 2/3 but not in the 1/2.
it is not the same size.
see photos
https://transfer.pcloud.com/download.html?code=5ZmClTVZFpLDdXSkKgmZbMxVZbXGNQg1mhWuioc7U7wzNPHUgfDdX
yellow ring on Canon J15ax8B4 (IAS SX12 f1.7) locating pin dia ~2.8mm
Black ring on H15ax6 (IAS 1X12 f1.4) locating pin dia ~3.4mm (1/2" lens, otherwise samwe dimensions)
is this the problem?
-sorry, this can't be the error, as the locating pin is on the camera side of the adapter. The (smaller) clamping ring should be the same for both 2/3" and 1/2" bayonets.
you can send pictures to vintage-lens @ outlook.com
If you can photograph the mount and clamp-ring in such a way I can see the difference (ie how much to cut away) then we can try a small modification. I can't currently do more than that, as I don't have a Sony ½" lens (and this is different to the standard ½" lens)
Hi, im from Argentina. I wanted to ask you if it could be possible to create an adaptor for the sony pmw F3 which has a FZ mount. It´s extremely difficult to find these type of lenses here in Arg and maybe a 3D design could be my salvation haha. Here is a link where you can see how is the adapter i need. It is not neccesary to be exactly for a Canon lense. Thank you!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/371784434700?_ul=MX&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=21551-241447-2056-0&mkcid=2&itemid=371784434700&targetid=295159191359&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9070458&poi=&campaignid=15788532238&mkgroupid=135683994710&rlsatarget=pla-295159191359&abcId=&merchantid=118952506&gclid=CjwKCAjwgaeYBhBAEiwAvMgp2iPuDZ07-Ak09KCaTP1y78Fj1O4J6qxy9mTlzJvRLjPiamjEQQ-zahoC2B8QAvD_BwE
Hi, I don't have any equipment with the FZ mount, so I'd have to find the dimensional info and make a few guesses! Obviously I have the lens side designs for a number of mounts and the FZ mount doesn't look complicated, so at least a first attempt should be easy enough. Perhaps you could supply me with the barrel diameter and the thickness of the flange (though I might find these elsewhere) and we'll go from there..
The flange depth is 19mm and I belive it is similar to a PL mount (does a PL mount fit it?)
regards vintage-lens at outllook com
Ok, thank you very much! I´ve tried to find the barrel diameter and the thickness of the flange but sincerely i don´t know how to do it well. Maybe im wrong but it seems the thickness of the flange is ¿¿2cm??.
Regarding the Pl mount, it doesn´t fit because the camera include a PL adapter to FZ but these kind of lenses are too expensive here in ARG.
Ignacio.
The PL adapter is to adjust the back focus to the correct distance (from 19mm to 52mm, ie it is 33mm thick). But I wondered if a PL lens would physically fit the FZ mount (but I see the locating pins are in the wrong place). The flange thickness is likely to be 2mm, as is the PL flange. I'll do a design in the near future and upload it for you (not this week as I'm working elsewhere).
Best to print the M42 thread on top so it doesn't "squish" on the build plate. The depth of the internal flange and pin are just guesses I'm afraid. It may work better without the pin. Possibly one of the 3 flanges is too big? Let me know!
Thank you very much for your time and dedication. I would like to return the favor with some money for the work you have done without obligation. I´m going to try it out in a few weeks so i can tell you if it works!
Hi! Here Ignacio from Argentina one year later. The "M42 adapt V1" worked correctly. There was only a minor problem related with the diaph aperture. The m42 lenses have a kind of small screw that needs to make contact with the camera mount so you can change the f aperture. I would like to know if its possible to add some kind of ring just behind the thread. I have been using it with a improvised homemade invention haha. Regarding the FD file, there is a problem with the adapter mount, i have some fd lenses and it´s different from the 3d design. I hope you can understand me, i don´t know if i´m using the proper words. Thank you!
Regards Nacho
I think you are refering to M42 automatic lenses that do not have a manual select switch. A 'pin' protrudes from the back of the mount and is pressed in as the lens is screwed to the camera? Designing the print to accept theses lenses risked a more complicated mount that might also get stuck on the pin (and then be unable to remove the adapter). Such lenses are usually 3rd party and less common, so I didn't attempt to include them.
re. the FD/FL mounts, yes there are two Canon versions (on the lens) and some 3rd party lenses that are slightly different. What is the issue you are having?
I bought your Argus C44/L39 adapter and I'm running into some issues trying to get it mated up to my Canon R7. Do you know the flange distance for the Argus C44 lenses? I can't find it anywhere online.
from my notes, Argus (C44 bayonet) flange distance 44.45mm.
There is also some confusion around the M39/L39 flange distance. Sometimes 44mm others like Russian FEDs can be 45.2mm. How thick is your adapter to the R7 ? (sorry, if here's me assuming everyone has digital callipers!).
Another potential issue with this lens is the space for the aperture ring print varies with the focal length position.. if the aperture ring print is too thick it prevents full rotation of the focus ring (or something like that -from memory!)
Thank you so much! The flange distance for my R7 is 20mm. If my math is correct that means I need the adapter to be 24.45mm from C44 mount on the front to RF mount on the back. I do indeed have a decent digital caliper, they are an absolute necessity in my book if you are a maker/tinkerer.
I'm thinking I'll take the front, C44, mount from your adapter and a RF mount from another adapter and stick them together. I'm hoping I can do that in Tinkercad because I haven't had time to learn a proper CAD program yet.