41 comments

I have a standard k1, not an SE, but I think the extruder is the same. two things though, you would have to set it up as a straight direct drive, since this unit only works if it is mounted directly in front of the extruder gears. not before the bowden tube. also, with the speed of the k1's print head, I am not sure if the high speed motion will allow it to function correctly, or will it jar it to trip prematurely. I will look at it though.....

You a valid point on the speed. I didnt even think of that. Thanks for the response

If you read my comment to the previous reply, the same issues would present on the x1 carbon. as for providing the cad files, I am sorry that would defeat the purpose of protecting my designs from infringment.

You don't receive it in an email, the download link becomes active in the listing after you purchase. just go back into the listing, and there should be a download button in the upper right corner of the listing.

unfortunately it downloads an empty zip file, could you send it to me email

Hello again. I am sorry, but sending files directly to a customer would be violating the agreement between designer and Cults3D that offers intellectual property protection. I downloaded the files myself just to check their integrity and they downloaded fine. I have discussed the situation with the support staff at Cults3d, and the directed me to have you reach out to them and they would be happy to help you access the files. You can message them using the "contact us" at the bottom of this page. You can also request a refund, if that is your preference. Thank you for your understanding.

δεν ξερω τι θα κανετε εγω θελω πισω η τα λεφτα μου η το αρχειο

it is something I am working on for a new design, but with a slightly different approach. stay posted.....

If it did not accidentally trip, the other issue is that the top would have to be left off.

no problom i,ll keep eyes open on progress

Which design are you talking about? if my autoloaders, neither, it works well on Ender series because it sits atop the extruder. I doubt if it were mounted on the K1, or max the head moves too fast and would probably jerk the devices swing arm to release prematurely. Additionally the top would have to be open. the system only works if the autoloader is directly atop the extruder, as the swing arm or spring carriage(v1.0) only moves an inch or two, and the new filament has to be able to get into the extruder gears.......

How does that work? I haven’t heard of doing here.

Hello, it depends on which extruder you have installed. I made it compatible with several extruders. It all depended on if I could modify it to find a way to clamp on. If you look at some of the pics, you will see it installed on my ender as a direct drive.

I uploaded the pic I was referencing

thansk for the kind reply. I updaed my ender2 with the official crelaity direct drive kit. This one:
https://www.creality3dofficial.com/products/direct-extruding-mechanism-complete-extruder-nozzle-kit-for-ender-3?srsltid=AfmBOorLB16XeOjUL6kWwqUc3jAQZiCSXv3oXhE-UfGUUsjynLGDrdAh

There should be a version that should work perfectly. I created a left hand and right hand version that fits the Creality extruder arm. The files are labeled as such. It just depend on what kind of mods you have on your machine and the orientation of your extruder to the frame. Mine was 90 degrees to the frame, so I used the right hand version so it wouldn't hit the top support. All versions are included. I have complete assembly vids on Youtube, as the creality extruder arm and the dual gear(mine) mount tge same. You may also like my direct drivs filament guide that mounts on top of the printer to guide the filament with little resistance. That design is also on Cults

bought the v2 ... could i ask your support, if i'm in trouble mounting on the extruder? :D

Sure

From what I can see from the pics you could use the left or right Creality model, as the device is parallel to the gantry. You would have to reach behind though, as it apears as though the extruderis behind the stepper. It is conceivable to have my loader from the front as it essentially sits above the extruder, but I would have to rverse a few things in cad.

Here is the spring pack I bought off Amazon:

https://a.co/d/ftPT4Ui

Hello, I am trying to find the time to get back to working out different units. As for collaboration, what did you have in mind?

It all depends on your setup. If default bowden tube setup, right hand with offset flat bracket. ( tthere are pictures on cults showing the setup). Direct drive could be either left or right depending on what the orientation of your extruder is. The important thing is that it doesn't interfere with any parts or function of your printer...

The only protection we have as designers is to not release the files necessary to easily copy or mod our work. I hope you understand. I will say, I plan on getting back to making more varients soon, but I have been struggling with motivation of late, as I just lost my wife of 19 years a month ago. Please be patient.....

I'll see what I can do. been dealing with family medical issues for the past few weeks, but I will look into it.

Thanks,

It should as long as they fit in the pockets and spin freely.

1. You are correct, if you plan on using the loader, no need for run out sensor. I just put a small piece in my sensor to fake it out , rather than removing it. 2/3. As for the guide, I have a mirrored version, so yes, Not a big deal to add a roller guide to each side. Will try and get to it tonight. Look for it in the next day or so....

Just discovered ability to mirror in Cura. No additional effort for that piece necessary. Hope you get this message in time to save you the effort!
I don't see the cover/internals for the runout sensor. Do I need to purchase another download for those pieces? Seems like that should be unnecessary, yet your designs are affordable so no issue if that is the case. Thanks for your timely replies!

No I just put a small piece of filament in the sensor and bend it over to keep it from falling out. That keeps the machine from ever caring. I run Marlin firmware that allows you to just turn it a off, but in case I turn it back on by accident, i'm covered. As for the roller guide, that would mirror the whole thing. I was going to make a single main section that accepts both left snd right upright rollers.

Thinking we're referencing two different subjects or I'm totally misunderstanding. The part I'm referencing is from the "filament run out sensor 2022-01-09 17_59_28" stl in the Direct Drive Filament Guide download. This part appears to be a mounting plate for a filament run out sensor. I do not have a filament run out sensor to mount on it nor one to mount on its mirror part. Am I misunderstanding?
I'm running jyers firmware that supports creating a print bed mesh manually. So far the manual method has reduced my need to relevel the bed for 3 months.
Am I making sense?

Oh, sorry, I see what you are saying, thatsthe separate bracket for the run out sensor. I thought you were talking about the upper bearing roller that sticks up from the guide tower.....

Suggestions since I have not run out sensor?

Now I'm confused, they are separate units. The run out sensor has nothing to do with the filament guide, I just paird them in the download. You mentioned wanting to have soools from both sides, so I was going to add the upright bearing to each side . Stay tuned for an updated .stl in the guide downloads

Guess we're both a bit confused. The pictures looked like the filament traveled across the run out sensor bracket so I was thinking the run out sensor box had a guide function as well as a sensor function. Inferring from your last comment my interpretation about the run out sensor bracket and its function is likely erroneous. Am I correct in stating that if one has no run out sensor the bracket for same is not needed and serves no function for the guide? If so, yes, I'll stay tuned for the upright bearing .stl. And dang, now I'll need 6 bearings and have ordered only 5. Oh well, easily remedied. Thanks for sticking with the conversation and helping me sort out my misconception. Much appreciated!

Just uploaded the updated files, they all start with "v1.1"

TY! Will download and print. Support appreciated! Looking forward to seeing your future designs.

Hello, thank you for downloading. The Q5"s I have came with "Titan" clones. I am still working trying to adapt to that type, but mounting is difficult. Mine were cheap and problematic, so I changed them out the the dual gear units like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Bigtreetech-Extruder-extruder-Ender3pro-Filament/dp/B08D9CNHVN/ref=asc_df_B08D9CNHVN/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=459769864523&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8325787617092861764&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007340&hvtargid=pla-943690822559&psc=1

I have seen them as low as 7dollars on "Temu". great extruder and easy to upgrade. different "E-steps", and usually requires stepper direction change, but they work great. If yours came with the same ones mine did, I am sorry I don't have one to fit that extruder yet.: This is a Titan:........

https://www.amazon.com/BZ-3D-Extruder-Upgrade-Printer/dp/B082HWGWJV/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=2PIZPTVAX13IM&keywords=titan+extruder&qid=1690691628&s=industrial&sprefix=titan+extruder%2Cindustrial%2C68&sr=1-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

i purchases the dual gear extruder from the link you provided. i have it installed and you filament loader built and installed. the only issue i am having is that more often than i like, the filament gets caught either in the dual gear extruder just after the gears but before it gets to the ptfe tube after the gears or down past the q5's long ptfe tube ( which i replaced with a capricorn tube ) just as it gets to my all metal hot end. have you had these issues and how did you resolve them?

Hello, A couple of things you may want to try: As I showed in the assembly video, it is important to remove any "burrs" or lips in the filament path. 2: allow the end of the filament to be squared off , not tapered. I know that is counter-intuitive, but if it is tapered, it may not follow the ending filament. 3: I showed in some of the videos, try straightening the end of the new filament for a few inches. I showed doing it with a "gas-match" lighter. If the new filament has too sharp of a radius, it does not feed smoothly. It will be "cocked" in the feed path wanting dig in on the side wall of the PTFE tube or on the side wall of the extruder. As a test, try printing with some flexible filament. It has less of a "springy" nature, and feeds more smoothly than stiffer filament. If it loads fine, then the issue is most likely the end of the new filament is not straighten out enough. Hope this helps.

Hello, it all depends on your setup. I created the left and right ones based on the Ender series in particular, since depending on how you have it set up you can use either one. For example if you have the stock bowden tube setup, you would use the right one with the offset adapter to clear the Z-rod. If you have a certain type of direct drive(like mine), the extruder is mounted 90 degrees to the hot end, and the right hand version would interfere with the gantry, so I mounted a left hand version. If your direct drive sits in parallel to the hot end (like a Microswiss) then you could use either left or right. You just have to look at your setup and determine the best one for your application. There are dozens of configurations out there depending on what extruder, hot end, air duct, support braces, dual z-rods, etc. I am just trying to offer as many options as I can. I have bought different extruders with the sole purpose of fitting this unit to them even though I don't use them myself. I will continue to add variations as I can get my hands on different models. Sorry I have been delayed in some of my work on this as I have been occupied with a family Medical situation of late, but will continue to work on them as time allows.

NM - I scrolled a little further and found the info! Thank you!

These are the two kits I purchased on Amazon that have provided all the springs I have used. :

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076XKY3JM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K7M36W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yes, the files in v2.0 should work with microswiss: https://youtu.be/SbfyHXtcD74

I have it mounted on my Ender3v2 as a direct drive. I had another request for a bondtech, should be very similar to the BMG style I included in the V2 STL files.