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11 comments

Hi Mash_Mixer. Can i get a contact mail?

Hi Mash_Mixer. I just unfortunately discovered that you have to remove the ogre-halfling duo star player because a licencing problem on the halfling. I would like to ask you if it will be possible to get back the gladiator ogre, I would really like to use it for my Imperial Nobility team.
Thanks a lot

Hi mate, ogre reposted. Enjoy

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Hello, I am French, forgive me if I word certain sentences incorrectly! I find your work superb, however quite a few download links are dead. We access the page of each project except when I click on Download there is no redirection for downloading the links. I noticed that this problem only happens on certain models (given that I managed to download some of them)

Here is the list of what I observed:

-Halfling Star Player
-Rat Ogre Star player
-Squirrel star player
-Treeman Star Player
-Ogre & Halfling Duo Star Players
-Undead Dwarf Star Player
-Werewolf Star Player
-Wraith Star Player
-Fat Skaven Star Player
-Minotaur Star Player
-Remix of a Snakeman star player for fantasy football.

Thank you again for your work and the availability of your models. Sincerely !

and it's not only this model....

Thanks for the heads up, I've seen a few sites that seem to be doing this with peoples work. End of the day I've only really been making these for myself as a hobby and sharing them with the community to pay forward the kindness of the original sculptors of the models I've used in these remixes. I sadly dont have time or energy to try and protect IP rights and the like. its always really disapointing to see people disrespecting the licencing conditions of freely shared stl's as it only serves to reduce the likliehood of creators continuing to freely share their stuff. Its certainly something I've always taken seriously in not remixing models where the original sculptors have selected the no-derivatives option.

Hello. I was working on supporting the Zoat player but I noticed the shell on its back is incomplete in two segments. I’ve tried redownloading it and I still see the issue. Could you possibly take a look at it? Thank you!

Fix deployed. Hopefully that should have resolved the issue.

Sand Hole Studio thanks you for download! I hope you like what we have created, visit our product for other teams! Send me a photo when you print it!

Hi Mash Mixer, love your work. Could you share some info on how you edit the base models? I have a lot of wargamming stls that I would love to use as Blood Bowl players, but I would prefer it if they were more thematic. I'd like to know that software you use and how you remove weapons from models.

HI mate, sorry for a slow reply, was a busy lead in to Christmas. I use Meshmixer for all of my work at the moment. Its free and does all you need for this sort of basic digital kitbashing. I pretty much just self taught through trial and error but I am sure there must be tutorials out there on youtube. Its hard to give a full summary without investing a lot of time in it but by way of a quick summary of the basics of what I do/what you want it would be as follows:
• Concept – Mesh mixer works by treating models as a surface made up of loads of small triangles. If you cut sections out you will create holes in the surface that will need to be filled/fixed. Similarly, simply overlaying objects will not get the program to recognise them as a single model.
• Viewing controls – Hold Alt and select/drag with the mouse to rotate the screen. Holt Alt, Shift and select/drag with the mouse to pan. Scroll wheel to zoom in/out. You want object browser on so you can move between the objects you are working on.
• Transform Tool – Activate an object and choose this tool under edit. It lets you move the object around and change the size/scale. You can do uniform scaling or just in one plane. You can move by dragging the arrows or manually entering coordinates.
• Generate face groups – Activate an object and choose this tool under edit. This will break the surface of the object into different coloured areas based on their apparent boundaries. You can drag the angle threshold slider or enter values to change how sensitive it is. This helps with following commands.
• Select – This tool lets you select areas of a model to modify. You can select with a brush head or you can use the lasso tool to manually select the area you want to modify. If you select a single part of a coloured section of a face group from above then hit “g” it will select the entirety of that face group, very useful.
• Delete – Once you select an area you can hit delete and it does what you expect. Gone. This however will leave a hole in the mesh you will need to fix latter. You can also select erase and fill which can be easier but only works in situations where you only create a single hole in the model. You can choose different fill effects from a smooth lump to a flat surface, etc.
• Separate – Once selected you can hit “y” or choose separate to change that part into a different object that you can them modify separately.
• Duplicate – Creates a duplicate of the active model.
• Extract – Once an area is selected you can choose extract or hit “Shift+d”. This creates a copy of that part and offsets it a selected distance. This copy will still be part of that object once created but it will be selected so you can just hit “y” to separate it as a stand alone copy.
• Remesh – Once an area is selected you can remesh it. This can change the density of the mesh and you may want to do this on models with really large mesh sizes where sculpting gives weird results otherwise. Not very common but good to know its there when you need it.
• Mirror – This tool under edit creates a mirror image of the current object you have activated. You then need to separate the mirrored copy if you want it as a separate item.
• Sculpt – I’m finding sculpting difficult to master. The most useful tools I find are the following:
Move – this literally grabs the selected area and moves it where you drag it to, stretching or compressing the model but not splitting it. This can be really really useful once you get the hang of it.
Robust smooth – This is a great tool to work over areas where you combine parts together to smooth out joints, ridges, etc. You can also smooth out ridges on models with poor finishes.
Inflate – inflates the area
Draw – draws out the area to a point
Flatten – flattens the area.
• Combine – If you select two objects you can then combine them in the edit function. This makes the program view them as one model but will not form them into a full solid and can often not result in the meshes being viewed as one model either.
• Make Solid – This tool takes your activated model and trys to automatically turn it into a single, solid model with a complete unbroken mesh (i.e. fills the holes, joins the different parts, etc). When you use this you will want to change the solid type to accurate and also you will want to set the solid accuracy and mesh density to lower than the lowest settings that the auto sliders allow. Its hard to give clear recommendations on the correct settings as it varies by models size, etc. Typically if the lowest slider setting is say 0.7 I would manually set it to 0.5. This then gives you a preview before finishing so if it doesn’t look crisp, try a lower setting. This is the most CPU intensive process in the whole thing and I find can often crash the software so always save first. You will pretty much want to do this step as one of the last actions in any model you work on to join it up into a single model.
• Inspector – The inspector tool under analyse reviews the model and highlights errors. Pink are free objects not joined to the main mesh, blue are holes and red is bad. If you select auto repair all it will try and fix all issues. Otherwise you can select individual items one at a time. Be careful with pink items as the “fix” can often be to delete a part you want to keep. Generally for most models I would first make solid, then use the inspector tool to correct any remaining issues. This will get 99.9% of you models to be manifold and good for printing.
• Export – Lastly, saving files keeps them in a mesh mixer format. To print them you will want to “export” them as STLs. This only exports the active object, not the entire collection of objects in the active window.

A lot there to take in and I am sure I am forgetting a bunch of things I should comment on but best I can do with a quick run through. Basics are to use the edit/select/sculpt tools to chop and change the model, creating/deleting/moving parts around as you want and then at the end of it all combine them together, make solid and use the inspector tool to make sure they are manifold. Often once combined you will then want to do some basic suplting to deal with rough edges, etc. Hope that all helps a bit. If you are working with models that allow sharing of derivatives be sure to pay it forward and post them for others to enjoy. Cheers and good luck.

Hey thanks for your work but i have a little question. Is it possible to remove the Spikes on the back of your skaven starplayer? I mean it looks amazing but its a little disturbing that the player is bigger than my norse gw players after printing in his posted version. He is nearly so big as the FW Yeti.
Like i said before thanks for the many star players.

I've just uploaded a version with the large trophy poles removed and replaced with smaller spikes. Thanks for the feedback.

Thanks for the heads up. It is pretty disapointing to see how often people just disregard the licensing details from creators. Personally I'm not to bothered as I currently have no intention of trying to make any sort of profit from this and at least they are offering a printing service for people I guess? I do feel for the original sculptors of the models I've used in these remixes though who dont get the recognition they deserve through that process.

Like that ball carrier token you've made!!

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Thank you so much for these star players! I really appreciate the option to print with a base as well. I normally don't print bases but I like doing it for these star players. Can't wait to see what else you come up with.

No worries mate, glad you like them!! I personally print most of mine with bases on just to save some time and to get a nice robust connection. A lot of people seem to prefer without so I'll definitely keep up posting both options. Plan is certainly to try and get a model for all of the standard star players. Some are proving trickier than others, but I’m pretty sure I should get there. Also thinking I might try to do a team or two at some point as I have a few ideas on that front. Thanks for taking the time to leave some feedback.

Hi Mash Mixer! Great work with the gladiator ogre, I love it! I am making a roman inspired Chaos pact team, and the ofte mix is exactly what I was after. Could I ask, would it be possible, or interesting, to do a stunned/KO token with the ofte? Something like this:

https://www.fanathminiatures.com/?store-page=Ogre-tokens-p316574538

I think it would eb fantastic to have the whole pack (the mini itself and the tokens!). Cheers, and great work again!

Hi, thanks for the positive feedback, its always great to hear people are enjoying these creations!! At the moment I'm pretty foccused on trying to put together a remix that can be used for all of the various star players and still have a lot of work ahead on that front. Once thats done I might have a look at what I can do for prone/stunned tokens for some of the big guys. I'm still really just learning the whole process so doing them well will certainly take some time.