15 comments

Has it loads I'm not sure what you mean, there's an image of the sliced files on the page just copy the orientation from that let me know if you have any other questions.

This is how you print them.
https://images.cults3d.com/_2vDUF5Ebirw6hv2p-GvVHqL_lA=/516x516/filters:no_upscale():format(webp)/https://fbi.cults3d.com/uploaders/17668855/illustration-file/b8e46259-6ce7-44cd-b6a9-7e440b838826/CR-10-Smart.png

That would have been good to have seen before I started printing.your instructions specifically state to please print it as it loads in the slicer abd to no use supports. The duct piece loaded vertically in Cura. I added supports and printed it vertically after reversing the print. It worked like a charm as a replacement for the right sided fan duct.

Nowhere in the description does it mention printing the file as it loads into the slicer. I believe you are confused. I recommend printing the files as shown in the image; you can read it again I did not edited anything.

I misunderstood the instructions. You wrote "as pictured in the sliced file" and I guess I processed that as "when the file is sliced (in my slicer). Rookie mistake by a rookie. No worries, it worked beautifully and is in use already on the right side. From the comments here it sounds like you don't feel the stock blower is inadequate however. So far its worked fine for me, but I may try your mod as well. I'm more concerned about the heat sink fan, as I think I had a bit of heat creap that lead to a clogging issue in the hot end. Have you modified that configuration as well?

No, I never had that problem with my CR-10, but the clogging could be due to other factors, such as the horrible extruder that comes with the machine (replace it as soon as possible if you still have it), or it could also be the load cell/bed leveling sensor, which is probably the worst part in the whole machine because it beds down when extruding, leading to inconsistent layer lines, print collisions, and sometimes even clogging. You can significantly improve print quality by simply placing a washer on top of the load cell under the left-side screw.

this is a video i made on the CR-10 Smart a few years ago hope it helps you https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xl60GlaMKxs

70 mm

you can scale it up if you need to only scaling it down should give you problems

Yes thank you, I though I fixed it in all the pokeball models but one splited trough, you can use the interior top shell from the master ball since they are the same but I fixed the file so you can also just redownload it again.

thanks for the replay. the file under "redball" are not fixed. still broken file. :)

its fixed

Hi,
I could do it but there's already a lot of designs whit a single 5015 fan on cults unless you really like my version I really don't see the point, from tests I did a single 5015 fan isn't good enough to cool down the prints wen using klipper whit speeds above 100mms but why would be interested in one ? Are you unsatisfied whit my version ?

No I love the design very much! I just use 5v fans instead of the traditional 24v bc it is less weight.

Oh thx but why do you want a 1 fan version ?

Less weight. Plus a 5v fan at 60% power on a 24v printer default out performed 2 24v fans

I see but you might fry the fan doing that, you are pushing over 5 times the fan voltage it can't be very healthy for the fan, but i will give it a try wen I have free time. I will probably put the fan sideways since it helps whit vibrations I didn't do it on my design because of over complexity and the fact i used 2 fans .

Make sure you follow to see wen I post it here.

Following

?

I have other things to work on a 3 months old baby and a full time job so chill I will do it eventualy its not like im getting paid to do it .

That's exactly what I'm trying to do, but I understand that completely.

I might post it this weekend

I have the file done just need to print it and make sure it works 💪.

Just wondering if there's an update on the single fan duct yet? I have money ready when ever your ready! Promise no BS here. Thanks again

Not sure if this will work yet, but I just did a mirror in CURA and made a right-sided fan. Printing now

I tested the file in 2 difente slicers and they showed me no erro.Unfortunatly I dont have bambu studio to verify the problem but does bambu studio not allow you to slice the file even whit the error it should be fine .

I instaled Bambu studio to see the problem and its just a case of non mainfold geometry you can fix it by pressing in the object and pressing in the repair in the pop up box that apers on the lower right coner of the screen also even if you dont repair it should print just fine

I just checked the files and evry thing seems fine on my side can you share some pictures so i can take a look and see what is wrong ?

Also from what you are describing seem to me like you have suporrts on .

https://ibb.co/60YQRgw

https://ibb.co/fHpd9Rc
These are from my camera. It just finished.

Looks great if you ever need something feel free to ask if its not to hard I do it for free :)

btw what cover is that on your printer head

Ty brother I truly appreciate that. You do fine work. The cover if from FKUERTFP this is the link for it. https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/cr-10-smart-4010 it's koo. It just needs quiet fans. I think i might add something to be able to control the two fans. So that I can run one fan only if needed. I'll get that done here in the next week.

how do you plug 2 blower fans on the daughter board ?

Since they are both 24v fans I was able to splice them together. Utilizing one plug for two fans. ( I didnt have to touch the daughter board for this one.) It works for now. It blows tons of air as is. With new duel ball bearing quiet fans it will be just right.

Cool might give it a try :)

Sorry one came out upside down. https://ibb.co/wMW0S6Y

WOW Looks great! Can you post it on cults has a make would help me a bunch tank you :)

How do I post it?

Big purple button on the top left of the page that says upload.

Hi just tested the download and it worked fine for me, Im not sure this is a problem on my end can you describe in more detail what happens wen you download the file ?

I figured it out. As the file wasn't reading obj. I fixed it ty. I can't wait to print it. So with this setup it turn on with the printer? Is there a way to control the light? As on and off. Or could I just add a switch.

You can add a switch if you want to but if you plug the leds to the conectros that a I show on the image you can also control them whit the screen like you would normaly do just make sure its 24v led strip if not you might frie the daughter board .

Oh, Ok. I see that's even better. No need for a switch. Thx again. I'm printing it rn in Creality silk blue. I'll post it once it's done and set up.

Great you will have to glue them cause its in 2 parts I hope to see it soon :)

Yes its only suported on 4 coners I used flat head 20mm M3 bolts for the braket, has for the dial i have the printer conected to octoprint and I levelt it that way.

awesome thanks man!

Hi thank you for purchasing the the mix box mod.
The model has no hole by design, it may seem a bit weird but its made way so you wont need to print it whit supports, if you read the description of the model on the first line its says "All of the parts can be printed without supports, the case for the switches prints whit a fine layer between the screw and the shroud that is supposed to be removed after printing." you can remove this layer very easily a knife or a x-ato blade.
Has for the diagram I do not have one made but the process is very simple, you just solder the wires and plug the jst connectors on the corresponding sockets they are labeled On the board of the stick,this is a link for an image of the board. https://i.imgur.com/NB8YflS.jpg

I hope this helps you if you have any other questions feel free to message me.

Oh alright I understand now! Thanks. Would you by any Chance know how to wire this into a Razer Panthera motherboard? Thank you once more

Not really what i know is that you need an adapter board to plug the individual buttons to the 5pin jst conector because the razor stick has no sockets for the individual buttons I found this video that might help you, the processe is the same just ignore the the first 20 minutes of the video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bkIj5ahSPU
here is a link for the board https://focusattack.com/fa-so-cd-cleaner-for-all-button-control/