57 comments

Hi!

I guess most of them can since the Ender 3v3 is quite a recent printer with good specs.
Usually I design my lamps in 2 sizes: a large and smaller version.
The available dimensions are listed in the product descriptions.
The large version is meant to fit on 255x255mm build plates.
The smaller version is for 210x210mm build plates.

So just make sure to get a lamp that fits on your printer, follow the 3d print settings listed on the product page and it should print fine!

No problem!
Thanks a lot!

Hi!

You can sell prints of my designs if you subscribe to my Commercial License on Thangs or Printables.
Here are the links:

Printables:
https://www.printables.com/@chregaud_1573771

Thangs:
https://thangs.com/designer/CharlesRegaud

Hi!
Did you select the right type of filament on the "spool holder".
Because it seems "machine consumables" means filament.
The STL file is just a 3D file and isn't linked to any particular type of filament.
But when slicing you have to make sure your slicer and printer are on the same page regarding the type of filament you plan on using.

Hi!
That's very strange, never heard of such error.

Maybe in the "Others" settings, under Special Mode > Print Sequence, set it to print "by object" instead of printing "by layer". Then the printer shouldn't stop or pause until the print is done.

Let me know how it goes!

Bonjour!
Cette lampe nécessite 220g de filament.

Hi!
Yes, I have commercial license subscriptions on Thangs and Printables:

PRINTABLES:
https://www.printables.com/@chregaud_1573771

THANGS:
https://thangs.com/designer/CharlesRegaud

Bonjour, et merci!
Mes licenses commerciales sont disponibles sur Printables.com et Thangs au liens suivants:

Printables:
https://www.printables.com/@chregaud_1573771

Thangs:
https://thangs.com/designer/CharlesRegaud

The model file is bit heavy because of the weave pattern. It's a lot of tiny bits of geometry to store.

And regarding the lid, I already explained to you in a previous message that it is not a "lie" or a "mistake" that it is full.
It's completely normal.
To create the mesh pattern, you have to set the top and bottom layers to 0 (to cancel them).
This way only the infill (i.e. the mesh pattern) is visible.
So pick an infill of your choice (I used gyroid 30%), and you're good to go!

Hi,
Why slicer and printer do you use?
These prints should go quite smoothly on most modern printers.
And they definitely should slice without issues.

For the lamps with weave patterns, make sure you use 0.3mm / layer.
On some slicers you might have to ignore some warning telling you you cannot exceed 0.28mm per layer. It is possible to print with 0.3mm/layer.
Then, the default "line width" setting might differ between slicers.
The weave thickness is 0.85mm, so with a Bambu Studio standard line width of 0.42mm it gives 2 clean perimeter line walls (the outter wall and the inner wall).
Also, using "arachne" mode makes the print even faster)
On some slicers the line width might be a bit smaller, causing the slicer to create some little infill lines between the 2 perimeter walls and adding a lot of print time or even the slicing to fail.
So you can try pushing your "line width" to 0.43 or 0.45mm or so until you get only 2 clean perimeter walls without anything else between them.

Depending on your slicer, you might have to set the "seam gap" to close to 0% to get a cleaner seam.
I use Bambu Studio, which doesn't have this option, but some other slicers do.

Good luck with it,
And let me know if you are facing any other printing or slicing issue!

No supports appear when I slice it in Bambu Studio.
If that's not the case in your slicer, you should turn off the supports.

Will you print it in vase mode? (I'd recommend a 0.6 or 0.8mm nozzle)
Or else 2 perimeter walls with a 0.4mm nozzle.

Hi Ian,
Yes, it should definitely be "without" supports.
Which slicer and printer do you us?

Hi, I'm using a Bambu H2D printer, and Bambu Studio slicer

Hi Patrick!
Sorry I didn't answer earlier.
I was recently invited to join Cubee, so 4 of my models have been on Hive since April 1st.

Regarding printing the Origami with 0.8mm nozzle, if you print it with 2 perimeter walls it would take 6.5h (and 6h with 1 perimeter wall but I wouldn't recommend it, better to have an inner wall line on which the outter wall line can stick and print nicely).
The settings are:
- wall line count: 2
- infill: 0%
and you can add some fuzzy skin if you want to (point distance 0.8mm, fuzzy skin thickness 0.2 to 0.3mm)

Hi Patrick!
I don't print in vase made. These weaves require 2 wall lines (weave is 0.9mm thick, so 2 lines of 0.4 to 0.45mm width).
Usually I place the seam aligned to the back.
On some slicers you may have to set the "seam gap" to 0%.
On Bambu Studio I turn off "scarf seam" and set the seams to "back".

I model this pattern in Blender, but it's possible to do it in other CAD softwares with a similar workflow as this:

· Create a line or circle and subdivide it until the vertices are about 4mm from each other
· select all the points, then go to “select”, then “checker deselect” to deselect every second vertex
· use “scale” to move the selected vertices about 4mm offset from their original position
· this creates some sort of triangular wave all along your original shape
· then extrude all the points vertically by 1.2mm, and add some thickness (0.45 up to 1mm) to it with a “solidify” modifier
· finally, use an “array” modifier to duplicate the shape as many times as needed vertically
· to offset the waves one layer after the other, you can use an “empty” object as reference in your “array” modifier, and move that object 1.2mm up, and rotate it just enough so each layer of wave is offset from the previous one
And that’s it!

Hi!
I just uploaded a version with a 20mm front slot.

V3 has two 15mm slots for slim cutting boards, and a 30mm slot on the back for thicker wooden cutting boards.

V4 has a 20m slot on the front, 15m in the middle, and a 30mm slot on the back.

Hi,
Sorry to hear about your situation.
There are about 20 models for free in my catalogue.
You can choose from there!

Hi!
Did you print the print-in-place version? It gives a much cleaner print result than the original shell-like design.

https://ibb.co/SNHTv5k

Hi!
It's normal. Check out the 3D print settings listed at the bottom of the product page.
Basically, to create the mesh texture you have to cancell the top and bottom layers (set to 0 layers), and choose an infill pattern of your choice for the mesh.
And also push the "wall line count" to 4.
Hope that helps!

Which product?

sorry I mean the ORIGAMI | Table Lamp

I'm not sure, but you could try a couple of things:
- Do a full calibration cycle of your printer
- Change your nozzle (I had similar "spaghetti" issues with a FLSUN printer when the nozzle was getting a bit old)
- increase the size of the brim at the bottom, to make the print stick strongly to the print bed.

That's strange. The Delta Ridge lamp usually prints without issue.
Maybe try pushing the "z-hop height" to 0.7mm or more, so the nozzle won't hit the print when moving around.
Also increase the size of the brim at the bottom, maybe 6 to 8mm, so the print is strongly stuck to the printing bed.

Oui, tout à l'air d'être en ordre.
Merci!