110 comments

No,it never happened at least for me.I test it in Elegoo Cura Bambu Studio and UltiMaker Cura and it look totally fine.
https://ibb.co/NhyyMZG

You have updated the software? The software may detect overlapping polygons or a hole somewhere. It is not strange for this to happen, especially with high poly files.

Try enable mesh fixes it may help fix this problem.
https://ibb.co/TDXj5hRn
https://ibb.co/TM9XtDW6
https://ibb.co/1fKQsKJv

If you've already updated the software and meshfix and it still hasn't solved this problem, please tell me again, and I will try to fix the file.

I installed old software, updating worked. Thank you very much

Sorry, but it is not in the plan.

Sorry, this model does not have a file prepared to support multi-color printing.

If it is a custom model or a small adjustment to a model from my store, I am willing to do it.
However, I am not taking other commissions for now, at least until the new year, as my schedule is very busy at this time.
Sorry about that.

The sheath only has this joint in the model. you can just glue it together that should be enough.
https://ibb.co/4ZnCdgDF

yes but for the belt system ? I plan to make it for a cosplay, nothing is needed here ?
https://ibb.co/mLGM3NB

It has a belt loop on the other side.
https://ibb.co/S4yZkxx3

that the flat part to place the sheath on.
https://ibb.co/bjd6Ns6X

Will the glue be strong enough to support the entire weight?

Yes, if you apply the glue on the joint, not just the edge of the connecting part, it is strong enough, as it is not that heavy.
Or, if you are worried, you can try epoxy glue it will connect very very strong.

also It has a slide connector for each sheath holder.You can glue all of these parts together (the slide connector, the sheath, and the sheath holder) for a strong connection.
or you can choose not to glue it so it isn't permanently connected; you can instead just use double-sided tape to prevent it from slipping in case you want to detach the sheath and play with it.

https://ibb.co/8Drn93TZ

https://ibb.co/hJVQBvyr

Hello again, could you please make a version of Harumasa blades with 5mm rode ? Thank you very much

Sure,give me a couple day, and I will change it to 5mm rod hole.
it's a special request so I won't update it in the store, but I will send you the replacement parts directly to your e-mail.

Hi, it's done.Could I have your email address, please, so I can send the replacement file?
You can delete your email address from the chat after you receive the file, if you want to.

I sent you the file, so you can delete the email from chat now.
Only the blade and some parts of the grip have been changed,other than that, you can use the same file.

this estimation by Cura with 1.6mm wall and 25% infill grid.In file pack it has 2 size 200cm and 180cm
for 200 cm the weight is about 3300g
for 180 cm the weight is about 2500g
If you install a steel rod, it will have an extra 400–600g of weight.

About 40% for the weight is from the top blade part, this part it doesn't need very strong structure,you can reduce the wall It will a little lighter.

Sorry, that was not on the plan.

Sorry, that was not on the plan.

The hole was 6 mm in dimension.

You need to connect it with string. there are tiny holes in parts [Blade 1C] and [Lantern 1], and you can pass a string through them.
https://ibb.co/mVyG0tR9

I think probably not, Sorry.

That is okay thank you for your time.

you mean this back side of the blade?
https://ibb.co/hx5Kcvp3

It has a rod hole for install steel rod inside, just exactly in the center of the back, and a sharp side.
The space inside is already quite tight to move the rod hole, so if you want to separate it, the rod hole has to be removed or made smaller.

Yeah, is it possible to separate it from the blade? Even if the rod hole needs to be removed or made smaller it should still be fine.

Okay, give me some time, and I will separate it. it's a special request so I won't update it in the store, but I will send you the replacement parts directly to your e-mail.

Thank you so so much you're the best! Please take your time <3

Hi, it's done. Can I have your email, please, so I can send the file.
The only parts that have changed are the grip and the blade, the other parts are still the same, so you can use the same file. I have a little concern about strength, so I made a rod hole for a 3mm rod, 60 cm and 30 cm long. Whether you use it or not is up to you.

Because the parts look very similar, I made this image with a file name hope it help you get a little less confused.
https://ibb.co/d0msx7Yj

I sent you the file, and you can delete your email address from the chat if you want to.

I got it. Thanks!!!

I will update it if I have time and if it won't affect other projects. But if it is a main detail or if something is wrong with the files, I will fix it as fast as possible. Mostly, I waited to see the animation first before modeling.

Yes, thank you for the report. I've just fixed it, and you can re-download the file now.

I will definitely make it, but the time cannot be confirmed yet.

It's in process, and it will finish in a couple of days.

Sure, I just sent the file, so you can check it.

Sorry for the late reply, THANK YOUUU!!!! we're more than halfway done printing castorice's scythe, we've also tested the connection and its working amazing!!!

This is slicer on Cura with 1.5 wall thickness, 25% infill triangles, 60mm/s print speed with tree support.

For the naginata it take about 82 hr and 720 grams
https://ibb.co/Q7QT5QkF
https://ibb.co/zHns3QKj
https://ibb.co/VcwCWwvG

For the handle it take about 25 hr and 250 grams (You can skip this if you plan to use a pipe instead.)
https://ibb.co/h1ftHHwM

The sheath it take about 87 hr and 750 grams
https://ibb.co/whQ6NC5T
https://ibb.co/zhhNHHzM

This model's quality is very highly detailed, just like the render.Some parts have a lot of overhang details and need support, some parts have low surface plate contact and might need a brim or raft.
That's why it basically just took the whole week to print, just to cover the detail.

sorry, that weapon was not on the plan.

I can change the pipe size to what you need and send you the new parts.I won't charge if the size isn't so much different than I have to remake the entire part.

So what pipe size would you prefer?

Also in the pipe in the model is 1-inch pipe Schedules 40 or DN25 pipe in metric(Outside diameter of 33.4mm and a wall thickness of 3.38mm)

It has a lot of different pipe measurement units all over the world. I am trying to make them more standard, but I'm not sure which one is easy or hard to find in each country.

It's not possible for the normal model in the store without more modifications. In the center of the blade, it has a joint and 6mm shaft rod hole to increase core strength, so there's not enough space left for a light source.

I can modify it for you but If the model needs to be modified to put an LED in, the shaft rod hole needs to be removed or made smaller. However, This will make that big blade have less strength.

so If you can find an LED that is bright enough to shine through 2-3 mm print walls and a 3 mm acrylic, ABS, or steel shaft rod for core strength, I can modify the blade to put some LEDs in it for you.

Also, do you have any plans to use a circuit, battery, charging port, or anything similar? The size of those components may also affect the space left for other parts.

Thank you for explaining the constraints if I want to put LEDs inside of it. I’ll look into available high-brightness LEDs that can shine effectively through acrylic or ABS. Regarding electronics, I am thinking about using an Arduino nano and a 18650 rechargeable battery that should fit in the hilt of the sword.
I actually want to use the sword for cosplay purpose was was thinking about scaling it down to like 140-150 cm so its easy to carry around and pose with. I am still confused so I will research more on this and talk to you about the adjustments. Thank you for your willingness to help with the modifications.

If it just re-scale and make some hole for leds don't need to recreate the entire model, I can do that don't charge for it.
I see you've already bought the model and you said you will research more. If you confirm the adjustments tell me again,so I can start modifying it.

1) No, it doesn't print in color, You have to paint it yourself, It prints with the filament color you use for each print.For example, print the handle with black filament and the blade with white filament, and you'll get a black handle with a white blade.
Unless you have a multi-color printer, you can paint the file in their software, and the outcome will have a color.
(I don't think print company will paint it for you)

2.It depand. Some you can just glue it togather and it done but some just glue is not strength enough, you need to put some steel or acrylic rod inside to incress the core strength, Acheron sword is one of that the blade is so big and thin,the sheath is also large but has a very low glue surface. It could break easily with a serious impact with out adding some core strength in it,
In my new model is has rod hole and joint part it easy to just put steel rod and glue it and it very strength but Acheron sword is one of my oldest model I don't make rod hole to in that time.

About The goal of sanding is to reduce the print line and connected line as much as possible for prepare the surface to paint.to reduce something like this
https://ibb.co/n8kZnjBJ
https://ibb.co/Z6mTD8D9
You can easily find examples on YouTube. There are so many great tutorials and tips. The results will be beautiful and satisfying, but sanding takes a lot of time. If you're lazy, you can skip this step and go straight to painting.

If you're really interested, give me a day or two. I'll update the model to be easier to add the rod and more user-friendly for beginners, this current model isn't very beginner-friendly. I don't want you to be disappointed if it breaks or if you have chaotic with the sheath, especially if you have to pay a company to print it.

You've very helpful thank you.

Wanted to make sure i knew how everything works before procedeing since it's my first time ever approaching a 3D printed project.

Also yes, i'm interestend in the buy and if it is of no bother i would be grateful if you could update the model to be easier to put together.

I updated the model.You can download it now. If you have any question or any problem,You can feel free to ask me.

Hi there! I managed to get the sword printed out and every piece came out beautifully, couldn't be happier about the result!

Just wanted to ask if you had any raccomendations about the type of glue to use (materiel used for the print is PLA if that helps) and what gradient of sand paper would be most appropriate for the work.

Honestly it's already smooth enough to eye but you definetly feel it when passing a hand on it.

Thanks in advance and also, again, 10/10 product!

I glad you like it.
you can just use any super glue. Or, you can use epoxy glue. It makes a very strong connection, but it can be a bit messy since it's very sticky and you have to wait for it to dry completely.

About sanding PLA is basically a plastic; it is still a bit solid, not soft like wood, so it will be a bit tiring to sand it very smooth.
If you want to keep the print color and do not have any plans to paint it.for me personally, I like to sand it first with 150-250 grit and then finish it with 400.
However, if you have a plan to paint it, I recommend finding a wood filler and mixing it with water (depending on your wood filler's base) not too lumpy and not too wet. Apply this all over the part and especially on print line and let it dry. When it is dry, you can easily sand it with 400 grit or more.

It will be very smooth and you won't be very tired because you are sanding the wood filler, not the solid plastic. If you keep looping the process, it will become smoother and smoother. It is more complicated, and it may take a little more time, but the result is very satisfying and less tired form sand it on that solid plastic.

https://youtube.com/shorts/FQmhZI0r32Y?si=c7-4zuRl9_EuiNEY

This tutorial video may be easier to understand, but in this video used an acetone-based filler. You can use either a water-based or acetone-based filler, it's your choice.

You can just sand the PLA first, if it's smooth enough for you, it's good, but if you think it's still not smooth enough, you can just use this way :)

I can adjust the model as appropriate and as you request, but can you tell me more specific to prevent misunderstandings.

Changed the blade 1-5 of Sword 2 in Honkai Star Rail Hysilens Sword to the handle 1-3 of Honkai Star Rail Hyacine Staff.

I just updated the file. You can redownload it again and check it.

OK, I received it, it's exactly what I wanted, thank you very much :)

Yes, it has both a hollow and a solid for the orb.
This is some more detail about the scale inside the hollow orb.
https://ibb.co/Ngchxb0f

Yes, which model is it?
I can adjust the size to fit your needs once you purchase the model.but do you mean the total length of the sword is only 4 cm, or the maximum you can print size is 4 cm?

I'm confused because if the total size of each sword is 4cm, that's very, very small and very, very thin. Most of the detail might be missing when it's printed.

even if it is a resin printer it may not able to print every detail,if it that small.