1:1 Browning M2HB 50cal Machine Gun

Sanding off a few millimeters sounds like just a little, but it actually is a lot when it comes to 3D printing. I have designed a standard pintle mount that will accommodate my M2HB. Will that work for you? Unless you have another 30/50 mount.

Hi. Thank you for your purchase. Every printer and slicer settings have a bit of a different output so, you will probably will have to post process before you assemble. Use a palm sander with a high grit to take down large flat areas. Allow the material to cool, often.

Even though my model is quite accurate, it is a couple of millimeters thicker than the real weapon, so it probably won't fit on standard mounts, which is why I have included a pintle.
Recently I designed a Jeep mount https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/m2hb-jeep-pedestal-mount . Keep in mind that even though it can hold a real .50 cal ammo can, extruded plastic of any kind can't hold real or dud ammo. While it will be OK for driving down a smooth street for parades and for static displays, it is not meant for off-road use or any bumpy road, so remove the weapon and ammo can when you are cruising.

Beautiful and exactly what I was looking for. I just found your belt ammo model too which I will likely use. This has been an incredibly fun project and thank you for the time and effort you put into making this as real as possible. I get the limitations of plastic and this will only be mounted for shows, not driving as I would be afraid of the bouncing and vibrations. I used PETG with your recommended settings of 4 walls and 20% infill. It's incredibly strong but it's still plastic. I will post pics when done. It will take me a bit to get pics on the jeep as I will need to ship it to my father in law who is 80 years old to mount so no timetable on when that gets done :).
Do you have a ammo can model too?

and yes... I have post processed everything but just wasnt expecting the tight fits, so the filler primer just threw things off a little. Nothing a little sandpaper couldn't fix. I used a bondo product to fill some of the joints mainly the barrel and the right/left sides. It's not going to be perfect but the outcome should be good enough for what we are looking to do.

Thank you very much for your kind words. Ensure you use proper glue for the rivet heads if you're using PETG. I had one customer who said that some of the rivets fell off because he was using an improper glue. Cyanoacrylate (Super glue) should work. Unfortunately I didn't design an ammo can, since there "used" to be several available here and on the search engine yeggi.com . You can pick up a real one from an army surplus store and my mount should hold that, as long as it's empty.

Keep in mind, the ammo can should only be used for static displays, and not for children (of all ages) to use the weapon on the mount to practice shooting imaginary enemies.

ok, I will search on Yeggi for a can and see what pops up. If not, we have a plethora of army surplus stores here in the US that will likely have what I need. Thanks again.

Unfortunately my model is a couple of millimeters wider, so it won't fit into the pintle.

The standard one is on the left, style after NSN: 1005-00-550-4091, which came out in 1963. The one on the far right, I designed from a picture from WW2 I saw online. The rest are just variations I've come across, possibly custom work.

Sorry for the delay in replying. I was away on vacation. The design's hole diameter is 16.2mm. It should fit a American Standard 1/2 in copper plumbing pipe snugly. An American Standard 1/2" copper pipe should have an external diameter of 15.9mm, however pipe diameters do vary in external diameter between manufacturers, as well as printers sometimes vary the printed hole diameters bases on calibration and slicer settings. If you're in the UK or a place that references the external diameter of pipes in metric, i would recommend you getting 15mm external diameter pipe and see how that fits. Wrap thin plastic around the copper pipe and see if you can get a snug fit.

Most parts will fit on the Carbon, but there are a couple who will have to be subdivided like the top feed cover. Remember, you can also print parts diagonally. You can subdivide parts yourself using free programs such as Meshmixer or Microsoft 3D builder.

It goes in the Trunnion. This was one of my first designs, so I used other parts to ensure the whole thing held together. I wanted to make the barrel be easily removable, so I needed something smooth on the inside that wouldn't bind on the layer lines. I will upload a test tube that you can print out and it should replace the need for the pvc tube. Print out the barrel and the trunnion and print out a small section of tube and see if it fits in the trunnion and over the barrel end. I may have to modify it a bit based on your test.

There are some moving parts, but the internal parts are not like the real weapon. If you build it with my instructions, you can open up the top cover, load a length of linked bullets and lock down the top cover, but it will not load anything. The charging handle will retract and you can take off the latched back cover. You may be able to make an airsoft out of it, but it wasn't designed for that purpose, and with all of the mechanisms out there it would be difficult for me to make a part to secure each one. The other Browning M2 is the ANM2 version. but it was meant for aircraft, however it was used on some ground vehicles. The larger parts will not fit on a Prusa Mk3S+. You will either have to segment them yourself, or get them printed on another printer.

Thanks for the answer.
I just downloaded your file. Im curious how it wil work out.
hope to print everything In one week with 4 printers.
just see that I have to spit a few stl's but must not be a problem.
Thx already.
With kind regards
Peter

Thanks for your purchase. Ensure you line up the sections as best as you can. With my old Creality printer, some of my prints would curve upwards when removed from the build plate. I had to flatten them out using a hair dryer and a cold cloth to ensure they were perfectly flat. Use a flat surface to glue them all together, and I'm sure it will turn out fine. Then use filler and sandpaper to smooth everything out.

Hallo. I printed the main body already completely.
Just have a question about the color of the body.
What pain did you use and color?
I printed with PETG and need a primer I think.
Can you tel me the color name and brand?
Yours is really great.
Thx already.

I used Rustoleum Chalked Charcoal overall. Afterwards, I lightly used Rub n Buff silver to go over edges and wear spots.

Thanks for the info. I wil like to try it out.
I let you know how it works out 👍🏻

Please post a "Make" if you can.

There is a set of instructions. Besides the 1/2" copper plumbing pipe, you will need some brass wire, which is noted in the instructions. The brass wire is needed if you plan on making some of the movable components, such as the back plate latch, top cover, latch, trigger, etc.

Thanks! I look forward to purchasing this is the coming few months!

And just one more thing, would I be able to send this file off to a company for it to get printed?

Yes, but be careful. Ensure it is a reputable place. Don't send all the files to several places to get quotes.

I’ll make sure to be careful, and thanks for your time!

Thank you so much for the kind words. If you can, please post a "Make" on this website when you're finished. I never thought a water cooled M2 would be popular, so I never designed one. It would be great to see yours.

Will do, I have a Tora Tora mount of which I have metal replica 50 inbound but won’t be for a few months so this is a stand in and I wanted to see if I could print something this big, I will draw up some of the water cooled barrel components but will use a plastic pipe for the barrel, please with the results so far.

With the 1/2 inch copper pipe as reinforcement, it is quite sturdy. This would have no problem surviving a low speed parade.

Is there a rough idea of how much filament I'll need to order to run this?

I'm not quite sure. This was my first 3D prop I created and I had redesigned a few parts numerous times when I detected an error. I wasn't keeping track of material. It also depends on how many wall layers you want to have. More = stronger, of course. Offhand I would estimate 2x 1KG spools, maybe 2.5. Keep in mind the receiver part is mostly hollow and the large parts do have lots of infill area.

Outstanding thank you for taking time to answer my questions.

Technically you can print a Boeing 747 on an Ender 3, you just have to cut it up into pieces. It is possible, but I can't say if it will be as strong. You'll have to use a program such as Meshmixer.

You don't have to buy it. There are two files in the folder "Cocking Plate": Castellated Nut, and Castellated Nut with Washer.
Good idea. I will work on getting a list together on what is needed for the entire build.

Thank you so much for your kind comment. Just remember to sand (post process) the parts to remove the layer lines so they will fit together properly. This is not one of those Print and Put Together guns.

Its difficult to say, since different printers print at different speeds, but it could be anywhere from 100-200 hours, or more. Unfortunately the license for this model does not allow you to transfer it, in whole, or in part to someone else. Nor can the printed item be sold, or tranferred to another person. You can't use this model for commercial means, unless you arrange a special contract with me.