NVIDIA RTX 3090 SERIES FOUNDERS EDITION FULLY 3D PRINTABLE 1:1 SCALE WITH SPINNING FANS

Since I can't get this cool-looking GPU from Best Buy, I guess I'll make my own.

Credit goes to Kaydremo for 3D modelling
Credit goes to RaptorOne for Print testing

They are overly engineered to be as realistic as possible. Meanwhile, being FDM printable.
This print will push the limits of FDM material printing, your 3D printer's capability, and your 3D print slicing technique.
This model took four months to develop to the current printable state.

Features:
-1:1 scaled model of an RTX 3090/Ti Founders Edition
-Fictional Titan Ampere backplates available
-All fins are printed with "push-pull" airflow in mind. As seen in the image above, you can shine a light through the fin array.
-PCIe fingers designed to fit in a real PCIe slot (use at your own risk, we are not responsible for damaged motherboards)
-Both fans on this video card spins by hand (skateboard bearings)
-0 watts of power draw
-0 GB GDDR6 Memory
-Displayport and HDMI ports are removed just like the Nvidia CMP line of GPUs
-If you do plug in a monitor to this video card, It will display a black screen (sometimes it may even display "no signal detected")
-New PCIe 12 pin power connector is on the card. However, it will not be compatible with the real power connector.
-Has a product name as advertised from the RTX 3090 Ti launch video

Please keep in mind:
-Due to the fragile nature of the card (especially the fins), please handle it with care.
-If you follow all the steps in the print manual, you can't go wrong with the print.

This is for personal use only, If you decide to make and sell the prints, please contact me first.

A 30-page slicing and assembly instructions are provided.

Cura plugins: Cylindric Custom Support, TabAntiWarping

To print the fans:
Due to the delicate nature of the blades, you need a PEX or PEI print surface such as The Wham Bam Build plate series to make the fan printing possible.
Glass beds: Please print using glue instead of hairspray to keep the fins from warping (initial bed temp60, then 40 afterwards)

To print the fans and fins:
You need ABL (auto bed levelling) capability of some kind. Otherwise, print failure will consistently occur. I recommend the genuine Antclabs BLTouch.

To print the backplate with the logo:
Your printer’s firmware has to be able to accept a filament change script command if you want to change filament to achieve coloured text. Otherwise, you may need to paint the text within the indents provided.

• Your printer has to have the longest print bed axis to be capable of printing 325mm long to print everything in one piece.
• However, if you decide to print this in a smaller printer, you may print the frame in half. The next largest item is the large fin stacks, and you have the longest bed axis of 220mm to print everything. (you cannot chop this in half)

Bill of materials:
• 6x M3 5mm long screws (typical 2.5” SSD screws will suffice) (optionally, you may paint it black) to install the IO plate
• 2x 606zz ball bearings for fans
• 1x bottle of Gorilla super glue micro precise
• Optional 1x bottle of 3-in-one lubrication oil if the ball bearings don’t spin freely.
• ~900-1000G of filament (must use IIID MAX filaments for Fans and Fins, or else the print isn’t possible). For everything else, you may choose your favourite filament

Tools required:
• 1x Heavy Duty Vice: to install the ball bearings into the fan
• 2x Quick grip clamps to install the fans into the pegs on the fins or to pressure down other parts during the glue curing process
• 1x needle-nose pliers to remove some support pieces
• 5-10x binder clips to hold trim pieces in place during the gluing process