Skip to content

HITOSHI SHINSO MASK - MY HERO ACADEMIA

?
Creation's quality: 5.0/5 (1 vote)
Evaluation of members on the printability, utility, level of detail, etc.
  • 👁 5.3k views
  • 8 likes
  • 37 downloads

3D model description

Hitoshi Shinso! Quirk: Brainwashing! :)

This is a 3D model of Hitoshi Shinso's mask; Persona Chords, which he uses to mimic others voices in order to use his quirk more effectively in the My Hero Academia anime.
Of course this is not a functional device, just a 3D model :)

I have uploaded in STL and OBJ formats.

The 3D files is for personal use only. Do not copy or redistribute work.

SCALE: You are encouraged to scale the model to fit the intended wearer's head.

3D printer file information

  • 3D design format: OBJ and STL Folder details Close
    • Antenna1.stl
    • Antenna1R.stl
    • Antenna2.stl
    • Antenna2R.stl
    • Ear piece alt R.stl
    • Ear piece alt.stl
    • Jaw Strap R.stl
    • Jaw Strap.stl
    • Knob R.stl
    • Knob.stl
    • Lateral plate R.stl
    • Lateral plate.stl
    • Lower Face plate.stl
    • Shinso v15.obj
    • Side plate 1.stl
    • Side plate 1R.stl
    • Side plate 2.stl
    • Side plate 2R.stl
    • Top_inner Face plate.stl

    Learn more about the formats

  • Publication date: 2021/06/09 at 04:24

Copyright

©

Tags

Creator

Designs 26
Downloads 843
Sales US$1,103
Followers 31

Follow me on Instagram:
https://www.instagram.com/y_urican/

Visit my youtbube channel:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCOtEQPwF0X5XGaDsOd-rXug

Designing things which I draw inspiration from/out of.
There seem to be a number of under-represented areas for which 3D files are not readily available, things like objects from animes in contrast to things out of sci-fi movies. I love both, but starting out with the under-represented categories :)

Issue with this design? Report a problem

Best sellers of the category Art


Add a comment

One comment

Hi, really nice project. Only one question: how is it supposed to be assembled/glued and then weard on?

Hello, there is an OBJ file that you can open up to see all the parts together to give you an idea on how to place them. For assembly, there are screw holes in the mask to allow for M2 (2mm wide) screws to be used to merge the plates. A total of 12 M2 screws are needed for the main mask. Two of those need to be M2x16 mm screws. The rest can be M2x8mm. The antennas in the back can be attached with 4 M2 screws per side. You can choose to glue some areas instead of using screws, but the screws are better and allow for some of the plates to pivot around the screw to move the mask. The 4 small plates ( 2 per side) around the cheekbone area have some 1mm holes to allow for different rotation configurations, for instance, a pin can be inserted through the innermost cheekbone plate to the outermost plate. To change the configuration, you can remove the pin, rotate the outermost cheekbone plate and re-insert the pin when the 1mm holes line up.

Hi. Ok, and how do you secure the mask to your head?

You can attach a couple of straps or bands to the back using the 8 holes (4 per side) which you use to secure the antenna. So you end up with a band that goes over the top back part of your head, and another that goes around the lower back of your head. Up to you as far as what material you want to use for this :)

Hi! What head style on the screws is the design made for? For example, is it made for counter sunk or socket type screws or something else? Just want to make sure the heads of the screws wont foul on anything.

Oh and one more thing, should we use nuts to secure the screws or are the holes designed so that the screws bite into the plastic?

Thanks! :)

Aside from comfort, the screw head doesn't really matter, makers preference :)
If you plan on having the mask really snug on your face, then countersunk screws are recommended (you will be inserting the screws from inside such that they face outwards).

No nuts needed, the screw holes are designed to allow the screws to bite into the plastic. The screw holes for the pieces that are expected to rotate/move a little are a bit wider to allow the part to rotate about the screw. Depending on print quality, you might want to open those up a bit more if you they are snug and not allowing rotation/movement as freely as you would like.
Note that although the side knobs are expected to rotate, do not widen the screw hole on the knob. The screw should bite into this part. The screw holes on the adjacent parts should be loose to allow the screw to rotate freely within while remaining bonded to the knob.


Would you like to support Cults?

You like Cults and you want to help us continue the adventure independently? Please note that we are a small team of 3 people, therefore it is very simple to support us to maintain the activity and create future developments. Here are 4 solutions accessible to all:

  • ADVERTISING: Disable your AdBlock banner blocker and click on our banner ads.

  • AFFILIATION: Make your purchases online by clicking on our affiliate links here Amazon or Aliexpress.

  • DONATE: If you want, you can make a donation via PayPal here.

  • WORD OF MOUTH: Invite your friends to come, discover the platform and the magnificent 3D files shared by the community!