Ruger 10/22charger Multiple extras included

V2 & V3 is now available a stronger more reliable and tighter fit. More modularity design options. Click the profile picture and see other designs.
search select my profile and you will be able to see my other designs. from here you can select the newer variants of the 10/22 chassis.

V1
Everything in pictures is included.
Printed mostly on Voxelab and SV04, american flag printed on bambu...It looks amazing compared to the other printers print quality.
If you have difficulty with anything please feel free to message me. A ton of time has been spent on this it works and it works well.
Below are what’s included, assembly instructions, materials, trouble shooting, hardware, and print instructions.

Designs include
+Main Chassis design with front foregrip and rear buffer tube thread

• pistol stock component addition interchangeable with the buffer tube thread.

• Extended front Handguard for longer barrels

• 5 slot Picatinny to Mlock Rail

• Single Finger Foregrip Picatinny Connection

+Top Mount Rail for Ruger 10/22

• Honeycomb Overlay on main chassis and much better feel to the grip and trigger.

+American Flag Overlay

+GoPro Picatinny rail mount (its sturdy, Print the clamp at 100% and main body at 60 or more)

Chassis Designed to be slim, short, Light weight, and durable. Idea came from the new style of 1022 chargers they cost around $400.00 so this is a more reasonable price. This is not for a takedown but for a standard out of the box Ruger 1022 and does not work with volquartsen triggers, bull barrels of any length. This ripping compact design is extremely light and very easy to maneuver.

See pictures—
Screws and bolts for the Foregrip Finger hold
x2 M4 30mm And Nut

Mlock Bolts for the picatinny 5 slot rail x2 Mlock nut and bolt

Things you will need for install on the Ares SRT

X4 M4 screws 25 or 30mm
X4 M4 Nurled Nuts 10mm
X2M5 screws 30mm
X2 M5 Nurled Nuts 10mm
X2 M3 screws 15mm
X2 m3 nurled nuts 10mm

It does require sinking nurled nuts and Metric bolt. Nurled nuts are all the 10mm. See below for more details. I supplied multiple options. The assortment packs are the best value.

Parts you will need for installation. all can be found on amazon. ( I have found all of these supplies are a must have, if you decide to build anything with 3d printing or even working on your printer.

_M Type Nurled Nuts M3, M4 and M5 also amazon sells assortment boxes. You will need the longest ones that come in the box.

https://www.amazon.com/Swpeet-Embedment-Hydraulic-Injection-Assortment/dp/B08YYHKGGB/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3OH8C3FFHHP0S&keywords=knurled%2Bnuts&qid=1694184114&s=industrial&sprefix=nurled%2Bnuts%2Cindustrial%2C100&sr=1-3&th=1

AND/OR

M5 used for attaching barrel handguard (x2 needed) M5x30 or 35 I can't remember.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YSVXWS8?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

M4 used to attach Buffer tube (x4 needed)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YSV66Y5?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

M3 used to secure top portion of barrel hand guard Mlock (x2 needed)
- in the assortment box. you don't need the above M4 or 5 if you buy the assortment.

M Screws *(Standard assortments usually don't have to needed long screws)

M5 Long assortment.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B094N8RB8Y?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

Standard M screw assortment.

https://a.co/d/1qn8Dyl

DIRECTIONS FOR ASSEMBLY

All Nurled nuts are inserted on the "Center Main Chassis". you will also need a Soldering iron for the nurled nuts to sink them into the plastic. it's a pretty simple task, set temp to 350 C, make sure your as level as possible and sink the nut into the chassis until it is flush with the surface. Sometimes a ridge develops on the edges. use a cutting to scrape this away so it is flush with the surface. be sure to wait till the material cools.
*(Be very careful I'm not responsible for your mishandling of this step)

you can look up how to do this online if you are unsure.

Be sure to install the bolt housing and trigger assembly in place, by first placing the back of the housing and trigger into the chassis. Same exact way you would assemble if you were to clean your Ruger.

Buffer tube x4 M4 30mm screws and M4 nurled nuts. Sink them in let cool and screw the buffer in place.

Front Handguard: x2 M5 30mm screws with x2 M5 nurled nuts. Heat sink them in, let cool and screw them in.

Hand grip is a standard M4 grip. The screw hole is made to fit an M4 20ish length screw. will not fit the screw that comes with the handgrip. It doesn't work with aftermarket handgrips... yet.

Thats it, have fun. be safe. I am not responsible for mishandling of any activity in anyway.

This is is a Replica, It is not made to be used for shooting....

3DXtech ASA, PC/ABS, ABS GF30, PCCF, Nylon 6 or 12
Inland TOUGH PLA (probably the strongest filament for your money). I think it’s stronger than any filament made in honesty. It’s indestructible unless exposed to heat. don't put it in hot environments as it will melt with pla.

—Cura—Bambu Lab
*Extremely important.*
100% infill for the hand guard that extends deep within the print. If unsure how to do this send me a message.

Print speeds and temps will vary depending on your printer and material.
Made the walls 3 with an alternating wall, Ironing is turned on, Infill is set to 55%.
On

Supports turned on,
-Normal supports
-Touching build plate
-50* angle
-Pattern: Zig Zag
-Connect Support ZigZags Turned OFF
-Wall line 1
-Density 20%
-Line Distance 2.0mm
-support brim turned off
-Support z Distance 0.2, X/Y 0.8, X/Y overrides Z
-Support Join: 2.0, Hor. expan: 0.8, Layer thick: 0.2, Steps 0
-Minimum Support area: 2.0

Build plate adhesion
-Brim
-count 20
-Replaces support: off
-Brim only on Outside: ON.

Bambu slicer
Standard .20,.16 and .12 setting for all the Bambu lab generic filaments will work perfectly fine. Be sure to increase infill and make 3 loops(walls). Use the same bed brim and support settings as cura above.