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CR10(S) Upgrade to PRO

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Creation quality: 4.9/5 (4 votes)
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12 files (STL) Close
  • Box_High_Voltage_V1.stl 270.0 Γ— 66.414211 Γ— 163.84289599999994 mm
  • Box_Low_Voltage_BigTree_SK3_V1.3_V1.stl 270.0 Γ— 66.414211 Γ— 163.84289599999994 mm
  • Box_Low_Voltage_MKS_GEN_L_V1.stl 270.0 Γ— 66.414211 Γ— 163.84289599999994 mm
  • Cover_High_Voltage_V1.stl 263.0 Γ— 13.011054000000001 Γ— 142.84289599999994 mm
  • Cover_Low_Voltage_V1.stl 263.0 Γ— 13.011054000000001 Γ— 142.84289599999994 mm
  • Cover_Low_Voltage_with_fan_protect_V1.stl 263.0 Γ— 13.011054000000001 Γ— 142.84289599999994 mm
  • Fan_cover_V1.stl 131.926178 Γ— 13.5 Γ— 109.80520599999994 mm
  • High_voltage_letters_V1.stl 39.900420999999994 Γ— 0.2999989999999997 Γ— 120.49084500000004 mm
  • Low_Voltage_Cover_with_Fan_Cover_V1.stl 263.0 Γ— 13.011054000000001 Γ— 142.84289599999994 mm
  • Low_voltage_cover_Melzi_board_V1.stl 270.0 Γ— 66.414211 Γ— 163.84289599999994 mm
  • SolidState_Cap_V1.stl 63.0 Γ— 43.0 Γ— 9.299987999999985 mm
  • Squashball_Feed_V1.stl 53.99996899999999 Γ— 39.0 Γ— 55.0 mm

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Published to Thingiverse on:
Design number 65899
Design author 3DED
3DED

3DED

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3D model description

Upgrade my trusty old CR10(S) to PRO
Goals I wanted to achieve:

Go to 32 Bit Board (BigTree SKR v1.3)
Implement 2208 Trinamic Steppers
Make it dead silent. (Dropped from 68 Decibel to 32!!!)
Get rid of the clumsy control Box
Make it Safe
Printable on the CR10(s) print volume
The guts easy accessible for tinkering without turning the machine over
Use as much original component as possible

If you do NOT want to change the Creality mainboard or have another I also included a Melzi board compatible low voltage box version.
UPDATE: On request, included an MKS Gen L Version

You can harvest the original control box for most components. That saves you a lot of rewiring. You have to shorten most of them tough.

I use the biggest Noctua fan I could fit in because they have the best pressure to noice ratio. This 120mm one is dead silent. Personally I don't need a fan protection. It causes fan noice and block air intake and I'm not afraid of plastic bits falling in. But for you who like, I aded a low voltage cover with (no support needed) fan protection.

UPDATE: Due to popular demand I aded a closed fan cover. It should just fit but watch your bed level bolds! I did not tested this myself. It consist out of two parts you have to glue together, the low voltage cover and the frame thing.

In my setup I use a Solid State Relays and 230 Volt silicon heat pad for the heat bed but that's not necessarily. If you choose so the power supply has so much overcapacity that it will not need any active cooling. So I turned down the speed of the power supply fan with a resistor.

I manage to keep al the high voltage stuff in one separate sealed and closed compartment. This is the area you don't need to access very frequently so this makes it a safe design. For the fun of it I include one layer thick infill letters for printing it in two colors.

You need to rase the printer 55mm. I included a Squash Ball feet that acts as a vibration damper But you'r free to use another design as long as they'r not came in conflict with the boxes.

Included in the design are mounts for a Raspberry Pi (Octoprint) and A couple of step-down converters.

For the screen you can use the original or a new fancy touch one I ordered. Cases for this are plenty on Thingiverse.

Have fun making and if you have any wishes or commands please let me know. Oh share a Like if you like it?!

#####Last little tip: Revisit this page just before you actually start making it if you planed so. Maybe small things are changed based on feedback or personal experience. ;-)

https://youtu.be/73bqKD3OhLM

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All categories β€Ί Tool β€Ί 3D Printing & Accessories / Tool Holders & Boxes

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