CR-10 V3 E3D V6 all metal hotend

Hello.
This a mount modification that's needed in order to install the e3d v6 all metal on our cr10 v3

Be AWARE that any modification, if done INCORRECTLY, WILL DAMAGE YOUR 3D PRINTER, and YOU will be the ONE responsible for it.

1) Firmware gently provided by Nic, it made a custom one(that I'm currently using) for our cr-10 v3 with e3d hotend. It has numerous versions, with bl, no bl.. etc. Reach out to his group for it https://www.facebook.com/groups/485185272196044/?ref=share
In the announcement top part of the group you'll find everything listed and explained.

2) You will be damaging the blue case irreparably, you'll have to cut out a small piece with a Dremel or any other tool to make my mod work. (I bought a spare cr10 v2 head off aliexpress for 25$, it includes everything, hotend, fans, blue casing just in case.)

3) You could theoretically mount the e3d without my mod, but your blue casing will be tooo close to the bed, I'll show in the pictures.

4) You will need : Genuine E3D V6 HotEnd Kit for 3D Printer (1.75mm) (24V, Direct)

AND

E3D V6 Extruder Radiator Remote All-Metal Long (the printed adaptor won't fit the stock e3d radiator, since it has no threads, so you need a threaded one, I'll post pictures.)

And some kapton/ptfe tape.

AND attached 3d printed parts.

5) IMPORTANT : The "E3D V6 Extruder Radiator Remote All-Metal Long" MAY OR NOT may have a different thread and pitch as the adaptor I made.

I will post 2 versions of it: One that's like creality. 9.8 diameter, 0.9 pitch WHICH did not fit my cloned radiator, and a 10 diameter, 1 pitch that DID fit my cloned radiator.

MAKE SURE those printed adaptors will fit the threads of the metal radiator that you bought AND SCREW ALL THE WAY IN before doing any mod AT ALL.

If neither of those 2 will fit whatever radiator you bought, hit me up in the comments with the pitch and diameter and I'll make one and add it.

6) to mount the e3d v6 to our machine, I used creality stock heat cartridge since it's working fine(I highly suggest you do the same,I heard some people had clogged nozzles using the stock shroud and e3d heat cartridge, but who know, it may work anyway), you will NEED to change the thermistor tho, (I cut the wires from creality thermistor and soldered the e3d genuine thermistor, POLARITY DOES NOT MATTER)

7) to assemble the e3d v6 all metal, you'll need to consult this:
https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/V6+Assembly/6?lang=en

Only thing that changed from above guide is the "heatsink" in step 14 (you will use cloned threaded one), you will not change the heat cartridge(up to you), you'll need a different length ptfe tube than the one that's actually mounted in your stock cr10 v3.

to assemble back the e3d titan (with our modifications, of course), you can consult this:

https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/1.75mm+Direct+Titan+Assembly/19?lang=en

8) PICTURES ARE for reference, and show it how it's done (I already had my e3d all-metal kit mounted, I did not want to take it apart just to take pictures so I used creality stock heatsink in some pictures, you will see pictures with e3d metal one mounted tho., I just used some parts to show you how it's done.)

9) You'll find all the explanations and how to in the pictures.

10) IF everything it's done correctly, firmware wise and mounted part.

You will need to do a pid tuning, and adjust your Z offset.

11) Enjoy.