Octopus lamp

Octopus lamp - ready for 3D printing !!!

The model is designed specifically for FDM 3D printing, you should have no problems

-----------Added an archive (Octopus cut.zip) with a cut tentacle for printing on a printer with a working volume less than 200 x 200 x 200mm -------------

Perfect for wall decoration.

Attention to print the whole model will need a printer with a large print field:

porthole dimensions XYZ 210 x 210 x 54 mm

tentacle (octopus) sizes XYZ 292 x 327 x 222 mm

can be cut into pieces if dimensions do not allow

I used the bulb holder E27 socket:
Here are links to similar socket , I hope there are shops in your city where similar cartridges are socket

https://www.amazon.com/Pendant-Sockets-Sopoby-4-pack-Hanging/dp/B01M5F3DA2/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?keywords=e27+lamp+socket&qid=1578373249&sprefix=e27+lamp+&sr=8-16

https://www.amazon.com/Simple-Deluxe-Extension-Hanging-Included/dp/B01LG0RGUO/ref=mp_s_a_1_72?keywords=e27+lamp+socket&qid=1578373413&sprefix=e27+lamp+&sr=8-72

https://www.amazon.com/JACKYLED-Extension-Hanging-Lantern-Cable/dp/B016MDPWL0/ref=mp_s_a_1_87?keywords=e27+lamp+socket&qid=1578373459&sprefix=e27+lamp+&sr=8-87

At the socket, it is necessary to cut off the back of the wire retainer - so that it does not rest against the model wall. I made a special test piece which I posted in my profile for free.

I recommend printing it first to check the socket (maybe you can take it with you and check in the store if the socket is suitable)

The part is called: Octopus lamp - socket test

I used a decorative spiral lamp, you can use a diode lamp - in my opinion, not bright lamps are better suited (to achieve a steampunk effect)

Do not use very bright lamps, they become very hot and can damage the plastic socket! lamp base heating.

In the socket that I bought, the wire is clamped mechanically without soldering.

You need:

Cut the wire from the socket next to the lamp
Cut off the plastic part of the wire holder from the holder so that it becomes more compact
Insert the nest into the tentacles
Mark the hole for the wire
remove the nest from the tentacles
Drill a hole in the socket with a dril
Paint the tentacles
Pass the wire through the tentacles and insert into the socket (the wire is inserted into the clamps - depends on the socket)
Check lamp

The scale of the model cannot be changed, otherwise the parts will not fit!

The size of the tentacle and porthole is shown in the photographs.

It is better to print the tentacle and porthole in whole parts without cutting - if the size of your printer allows.

if you want to print this model but the field of your printer is smaller - write me (in email stepantarasov1@gmail.com) the dimensions of the printing area, I can cut the model for you (but then gluing and possible post-processing will be required)

Parts List:

The main model - Octopus and illuminator

Decorative parts - rivet x3 (Need to print 3 times)

Test Details:

• E27 test (Lamp Socket Model - Basic Dimensions)

• Octopus lamp - socket test (Model for checking / selecting a suitable socket for a lamp) --- free, is here and posted separately in the profile.

Details in DXF format for laser cutting from 3mm plexiglass - plexiglass - laser cutting

If you do not have the opportunity to cut from plexiglass, I attached files for printing on a 3D printer (it is better to print from transparent plastic or paint under old glass) - glass for 3d print (5 part separately) and glass 3d print (1 part)

the insertion sequence is in the photo, in the file and the DXF is laid out in the correct sequence (you can stick it in another sequence)

Print Settings:

used PLA plastic

3D printer with a print field 350x350x350

all printing with application support, but they separate well and do not require grinding

Octopus settings:

Nozzle 0.6 mm
Layer height 0.3 mm
3 perimeter shells
6 top and bottom solid layers
Infill - 20%
Use skirt 15 outlines (since the print is long and additional fixing will not hurt)
Support infill 30% / 2 dense layers / 40% dense infill / angle 50 deg
Time 3d print - 79 hours / Plastic weight - 1890g

I recommend increasing the temperature of the extruder and lowering the printing speed.

My settings are 240 degrees extruder, 60 bed, and speed is 40 mm / s

Maybe this only applies to my printer and it will be different on yours.

Just check at what speed and temperature your printer prints well with a 0.6 nozzle before printing

Settings for porthole printing are standard. I used a 0.4 mm nozzle and a layer of 0.2 mm

Support use

Time 3d print - 24 hours / Plastic weight - 308g