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Gelenkige Vogelspinne

Qualität der Kreation: 4,3/5 (19 Stimmen)
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Beschreibung des 3D-Modells

Gruselige, gelenkige Tarantel!

**Keine Stützen erforderlich. Einfach ausschneiden und ausdrucken!!!

3 Versionen verfügbar:

  • Tarantula_v2_baseA.stl: Enthält leicht zu entfernende Basen auf beiden Seiten der Beine, um den Druck zu erleichtern. Nach dem Druck müssen nur die Beinlaschen vorsichtig entfernt werden (siehe Postprinting-Video).

  • Tarantula_v2_baseB.stl: Enthält leicht zu entfernende Basen an den Beinen, nur an den Spitzen.

  • Tarantula_v2_baseC.stl: Enthält eine vollständige Basis für maximale Haftung am Bett.

  • Tarantula_v2.stl: Original Tarantula ohne Basislaschen (Sie benötigen eventuell ein Floß oder eine Krempe, damit die Beine richtig auf dem Bett haften).

Schauen Sie sich meine anderen gelenkigen Designs hier an!


Eine gute erste Schicht ist für den Erfolg des Drucks unerlässlich. Vergewissern Sie sich, dass Ihr Drucker kalibriert ist und das Bett gut haftet.

Eine gute Kühlung der Schicht ist ebenfalls empfehlenswert, da sie ein Verziehen und Verziehen bei Überhängen verhindert.


Informationen zur 3D-Druckerdatei

  • Format der Gestaltung 3D: STL Datei-Details Schließen
    • Tarantula_v2.stl
    • Tarantula_v2_baseA.stl
    • Tarantula_v2_baseB.stl
    • Tarantula_v2_baseC.stl

    Mehr zu den Formaten

  • Letzte Aktualisierung: 2021/05/28 19:28
  • Veröffentlichungsdatum: 2020/12/16 17:00





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23 Kommentare

Thank you very much for your quick response. Sincerely.

Bonjour, je suis un novice en impression 3D. j'ai une elegoo mars 2 pro. Je n'ai changé aucun paramètre et j'ai lancé l'impression. 4h30 de print pour un résultat un peu décevant. Pas d'articulation, les pattes étant fondues au corps. Je ne critique pas l'auteur de la figurine. Simplement cet d'objet est il fait pour les imprimantes SLA ? Que dois je changer dans les paramètres pour avoir des pattes articulées ? Cordialement.

Hi there!
The model was not designed to be printed in SLA, but it can be done. I've printed a couple on my Elegoo Mars Pro at 50% scale and they worked, so it should be feasible in your printer, as it is a better one. I recommend you to see Uncle Jessy's video about printing articulated models with resin: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JnKtPg0BEhs
In the end is a matter of properly adjusting the layer exposure times, especially the first layers. Also, the bigger you print it the better.

Hope it helps!

So I am pretty new to this hobby but I printed one successful on the first try just from using the creators suggestions, came out amazing. Here's what I ended up tweaking.

0.2 - Layer Height
Main Body 15% Infill
Legs and Palps 0% Infill
50 mm/s Speed
8 mm/s Initial Layer Speed
0.6 mm/s Z hop Speed
100% Fan Speed
200% Scale

I had to look up how to change infill being so new but its super easy once you look it up. Good luck to everyone else and thanks to Mcgybeer for making an amazing model.

Thanks a lot for your feedback and tip. They will help others for sure ;)

in the background of the video you have provided for this print, there is an awesome dragon, do you have the file for this print and maybe a video on how to assemble it?

I found that design several years ago on Thingiverse, and I'm afraid I don't remember the name

I think I know that model. You can check it out at this link. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3509494

I'm also struggling to get a good print out of this model with the A version. It's pretty much as described in comments below. Something always goes wrong on the early build up of feet and a couple of inners always seem to fail. Tried 5 times now with two filaments and lowering temp on PLA that doesn't normally need it. I've no problem with other prints and adhesion directly before and after this print so I'm going to try the full raft version next in the hope that helps without being too much of a clean up pain.
Any other pointers gratefully received

It's a tricky print indeed. Increasing the Z hop usually helps. And for sure the last version with the bigger base increase the success rate. Good luck!!

Nice, thanks for your feedback.
No special tricks for the surface finish. Just the filament used, and sometimes some paint touch (like the blue on the giant tarantula).

  • 1 Like

Also, @mcgybeer: i didnt mind too much it failed. I have my printer about a week. Although i'm pretty convinced the calibration is well done (benchy etc) i still need to learn a lot. And you do that by failing :) So it allowed me to learn on supports etc in this case.

I do have a question to you as an experienced maker: how do you get the matte surface finish? What kind of filament and techniques do you use?

I've successfully printed the A model at 70% , but with custom enforced supports in prusa slicer. However the supports were a bit tight to the model (stuck) so i will tweak a bit with it, at 70% it proved easy to break the lower part of the legs.

Will today test at 120% (roughly 10cm front to back) with supports

That's warping/curling. Increasing the Z-hop helps a lot to deal with that. Also lowering the nozzle temperature, if the filament allows it.
I saw a bit of that on my Prusa Mini, but not enough to be an issue.
Also ambient temperature makes a difference, no kidding: it works better in winter hahaha

Unfortunately it failed again. But now i know exactly what is the problem. During the feet build up the perimeter layers in the feet and are lifted up during the printing creating a buildup of PLA above the currently printing height, during the printing process the nozzle crashes into the feet and displaces them in the bed. After that the print is doomed. I really don't know how to compensate for that. Maybe printing it on bigger scale. I am using 3 perimeters for the feet with 0% infill, and 15% for the rest of the model with triangular pattern. Prusament PLA galaxy black, 215C nozzle and 60C bed.

Just uploaded a new version ("Tarantula_v2_baseC.stl") with a quick fix. Printing it myself right now. Hope this works and solves your issue.

Happy to test print as soon as you post it, i have my printer idle right now ! Thank you for you commitment.

Second failure reported on a Prusa MK3, so maybe I'm missing something because that can't be a coincidence. I've printed several on my Prusa Mini, and yesterday I printed one at 150% on the Ender 3 v2.
I'll upload an improved version with larger tabs ASAP (maybe a huge tab holding all the legs together).
Sorry for the inconvenience.

Hi there. MKS3+ owner here. Tried it two times on my printer with the A version of the STL.
While the outer part of the legs are still firmly in place, the inner part of the legs all came loose - except for one.
I am printing with PLA. First layer looks perfectly smooth, no adhesion issues. Steel bed was cleaned properly with isopropyl acohol.

Bit of a bummer to be honest :D

(i tried once on 100%, once 120%, stopped the print after roughly 60% of the print, where the lower part of the inner leg part was printed and about 3 mm of the second part.

Mmm... That's weird. I've printed several with no issues on my Ender 5 and my Prusa Mini, and your MK3 should be a far better printer than mine. Anyway, if someday you want to give it another try I'll be glad to help ;)

The printer is a prusa mk3 with great bed adhesion and 0 problems so far. I washed the bed with soap and hot water and cleaned it with IPA before starting the third print. The easiest would be to use a big brim. Although i will not try again, maybe someone else tries with a brim. I really appreciate you prebuilt supports but maybe they need to be a bit bigger. Thanks anyway for your support.

I know it is quite a torture test, but feasible for a well calibrated printer. My two main recommendations are to improve bed adhesion and deal with warping/curling.

For the first one, just be sure your bed is well calibrated and clean (I use IPA). Proper bed temperature (if heated), and maybe some stick or spray depending on the material. I used hairspray on my old printer with glass bed and worked like magic. Lowering first layer speed, even down to 8-10m/s, really improves adhesion. And also increasing thickness for the first layer, around 0.3 mm, helps a lot.

To deal with the warping/curling you should enable the z-hop (~0.4 - 0.6 mm), because the extruder may collide with curled parts and loosen them. To reduce the curling it's important to have a good layer cooling. Check it and be sure it's set at 100% speed and you have proper airflow. I improved my prints a lot just changing the stock fan duct.

Hope this helps!

If you need further assistance you can mail me to mcgybeer@gmail.com

Unprintable model. I tried to print it 3 times and the last time was in 140% scale and i was unsuccessful. The feet are always get lifted from the bed and the print crashes. Unfortunately i am giving up on this model.


Which slicer are you using? I've successfully printed it with Cura, Simplify3D, PrusaSlicer and Chitubox. Are you sure it's an STL issue? If that's the case, you should view the "garbage" on the gcode preview. If not, it's probably a printer issue. You can reach me at mcgybeer@gmail.com if you need further assistance.

I can't seem to print this model.

Anytime you go to bring it into a slicer is has so many non-manifold edges it just prints garbage.

For all my models, if I want 100% success I go for 15% infill (maybe 10% if I scale up the model).
Anyway, I've tested all my designs at 0% infill and they work perfectly. Of course they are not as strong, but I use them mainly for decoration.
My advice for the spider, if you have advanced slicer knowledge, is to print it very big (like 20 cm). 3 perimeters and 0% infill on the legs (and palps), 2 perimeters and 5% triangular infill on the body centered on the abdomen. Also I recommend using the _baseA.stl, as it is more reliable.

What do you normally set for the infill on your articulated creatures? This is the first one I've purchased/printed.

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