Gelenkiger Drache

Hi! It depends on the cause of the failure. If you send me some pictures to mcgybeer@gmail.com I'll be glad to help ;)

ok I'll retry today and see where it goes. thanks for the response

Hi! To help you I'll need more details. Are you printing on FDM or resin? Scale? Printer? Slicer?

Hi! I tried to add a hole for that, but the articulation is too tight and wasn't feasible. Instead, I used an external metal wire support to take the pictures ;)

i meant etsy, not ebay

I'm sorry, the license of this design is non-commercial and I'm not giving new authorizations right now.

Thank you for the straight forward and honest response

Hi!
Thanks a lot for the warning. It took a while, but I messaged Thangs staff and they have removed the item

Thanks a lot for your concern. I'll check it right now ;)

Holy cow - I went there just to see what the listing on amazon was and there was at least 10 more listings selling these. I sure hope they're licensed through you. (I have paid for the file, btw)

Sorry, I can't access the content of that group. Not sure what you wanted to show me

Thanks for your concern, just messaged the user ;)

Thanks for your concern, just messaged the user ;)

Hi there!
I haven't printed it with resin myself, but I know lots of people did it, also with your printer. Check out the video by Uncle Jessy, with dedicated tips to print this Dragon in resin (link on the description)

Hi!

Second try is the good one!

It was a matter of lowering the exposure time.

Incredible design, incredible result.

Thanks!

Awesome! Glad to hear that ;)

Hi!
I don't have experience with that printer. I know some of my designs can be quite a torture test for some people. 95% of the issues are related to improve the bed adhesion and deal with warping/curling.

For the first one, just be sure your bed is well calibrated and clean (I use IPA). Lowering first layer speed, even down to 8-10m/s (or even slower if needed), really improves adhesion. And also increasing thickness for the first layer, around 0.3 mm, helps a lot. Proper bed temperature (if heated), and maybe some stick or spray depending on the material. I used hairspray on my old printer with glass bed and worked like magic.

To deal with the warping/curling you should enable the z-hop (~0.4 - 0.6 mm), because the extruder may collide with curled parts and loosen them. To reduce the curling it's important to have a good layer cooling. Check it and be sure the layer fan is set at 100% speed and you have proper airflow. I improved my prints a lot just changing the stock fan duct.

Hope this helps!

Hi!
I don't have experience with that printer and that slicer. Are you using PLA? It seems either adhesion or warping issue. If you already tried my tips, I'm afraid I can't be of additional help. Sorry about that

That's usually due to underextrusion on small perimeters. It happened to me a while ago with the octopus, and I solved it tunning the retraction related settings. Depending on the slicer, they are something like "restart distance" and "coasting". Wipping may have some impact too. And as last tip, I like to reduce the speed on small perimeters to have stronger joints (PrusaSlicer has a dedicated setting for this, not sure about the others). Hope this helps!

okay thanks

Hi!
In my opinion, the bigger the better ;P
You can use the slicer function to max the scale to the build volume, all slicers can do that

Really? Some people don't care at all about others hard work...
Thanks for letting me know

https://www.aliexpress.com/af/3d-printed-articulated-dragon.html?d=y&origin=n&SearchText=3d+printed+articulated+dragon&catId=0&initiative_id=AS_20211230131626

Hi!
It's legal if they have my previous authorization, and they state that in the item description. Just a few sellers have an actual agreement, so unfortunately most of the Etsy sellers are not legal. I'm trying to reach as much as I can, but it is a nasty task because some of them doesn't respect the IP and the CC license.
Thanks a lot for your concern ;)

Most of them don't credit you :(
How can I have your authorization? Do I need to pay a licence or something? Not that I'll sell 3d prints right now, I'm just curious.
(maybe in the future :) )

Well, just asking and making an agreement ;)
However, I'm not giving new authorizations right now. I'm trying to boost the currently authorized sellers, because it's hard to track lots of them

Hi!
What slicer are you using? You probably added a color change setting without noticing. Try slicing it again ;)

I use Prusaslicer, I checked and everything is OK. I tried it through Cura 4.12 and the same. Only where it goes well on the old Geeet i3 for b, but the printing is not perfect.

That's very weird... If you want you can send me the gcodes to mcgybeer@gmail.com and I can take a look

I use Prusaslicer and without issues printed the dragon twice (big and small). At the moment it was version 2.3.3, with Prusa Mini+.
There is new version 2.4, where they have new functionality "apply color change automatically".

Hola!
Lamentablemente no tengo ningún soporte especifico.
Yo improvisé un soporte con alambre para las fotos, y he visto que otra gente usa soportes de figuras de acción, que son transparentes y ajustables

ok muchas gracias.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5175460

No tiene mala pinta. Gracias!

The curled version fits on a 180x180 mm buildplate. On the Ender 3 V2 you can print it at 120-125% scale (it looks better if printed big!)

Hi!
I'm afraid that the curled version is already the smallest area possible. I've tried to curl it even more, but the legs and the "upper" body are limiting this. Sorry about that

Hi!
I haven't tried myself, but I'm quite sure it should work. Let me know if it doesn't and I'll try to help ;)

I will try it! Thanks for your fast reply ;-)
Have a good one!

have you done this cus im about to now lol

Yes I have done it!

2 time

Thanks for your help! Fortunately it seems it has been already removed

Hi!
I plan to design more dragons in the future, but can't tell you any expected time yet ;)

Hi!
I had similar issues back in the day when printing my first octopuses. It was all related to the retraction settings, and printing temperature. But haven't happened for relatively new printers, using default profiles.
Hope it helps!

Not sure if I understood it correctly. Which infill are you setting? With PrusaSlicer even if you set it to 0% it creates some extra thickness on non vertical walls, due to the "Ensure vertical shell thickness" option. However, disabling this cause horrible prints XD

Hi!
Maybe in the future, but right now I'm not looking for new sellers ;)

Here is an image of what I described above: https://imgur.com/a/AXaIrvw
Is there a way to make the hinge tubes solid?

Hi!
Thanks for the picture, it helps a lot. How many walls/perimeters are you using? It looks very very thin, like it's just one wall. For this kind of articulated designs you need at least 2 walls, so it's strong enough. Hope this helps!

So, in Cura, is the setting you are talking about "Wall line count" which is currently at 1? Also, Wall Thickness is set to 0.5mm, is that correct for this print?

Correct. You should use "Wall line count" of 2 or higher to have strong links. Wall thickness will turn disabled once you set the wall line count, so it doesn't matter.

Anyone you want ;)
I've printed mine at 0% and worked perfectly, so feel free to use the infill you feel most comfortable with

Haven't tried that printer, but it should work as well. Have you tried PrusaSlicer?

No but I will try, thank you

Yes, they should be articulated as well. Please, send me the gcode to mcgybeer@gmail.com and I'll try to investigate the issue ;)

Hi!
Which kind of printer and slicer did you use?

I’m using an Ender 3 V2 and Cura slicer.

Oh, that's weird. I've printed also one with an Ender 3 and it worked perfectly. Please, send me the gcode to mcgybeer@gmail.com and I'll try to investigate the issue ;)

Thanks a lot for your feedback and tips! It will help other users for sure ;)

I assume you are talking about FDM, right? It depends on the quality of the prints you can achieve, so I can't guarantee it will work

Sorry yes, FDM, my nephew has a little one, does great details, but he really wants to make one of your awesome dragons! So I figured I would ask before purchasing :) Thank you for the prompt response!

Thanks a lot! I'm glad you like it.
And thanks also for the tips and feedback, it will help others for sure ;)

That's a tricky question, because I have a full-time job as electronic engineer, and my 3D design workflow is a chaos hahaha

Usually, I have an unexpected idea, and I think about it for a few weeks. In the process I usually draw some sketches, to define the general shapes and identify possible challenges (overhangs, articulations...). Depending on the difficulty, this takes different times. For the dragon, as an example, I've been thinking about it for 2 years! But it wasn't clear on my mind, so I move on to different designs. Other ones, like the unicorn, were quite straightforward because it's similar to previous designs.
Once the sketches make sense, I identify the new articulations. I design just the articulation and print several tests until it works as expected. Once I'm happy with the mechanical behavior, I start modeling the full design. Usually, I do a couple of iterations of test prints until I'm happy with the design (that's why I uploaded the v2, because v0 and v1 were not perfect). Then I run several prints, at different sizes and with different prints, to be sure that it will work for everyone (at least that's my goal).
The last part it's taking pictures and uploading it.

Hope this makes sense ;)
Regards!

Not sure about that, nothing special. It can be printed on almost all the printers out there

I've been using the default PrusaSlicer settings for the Ender 3 V2. Just changed the first layer speed to 10mm/s for better adhesion. Hope it helps!

OMG That's insane!

There are some authorized sellers, but I'm not giving new permissions right now

Thanks!! ;)

Oh, what an honor! Thanks a lot! ;)

It works with any infill, even at 0%. Feel free to use the one you need ;)

I'm almost sure that's warping/curling. If possible, you need to improve the layer cooling. If not, try to reduce even more the speed on that area. PrusaSlicer has a specific parameter for small perimeters speed. Reducing the temperature also helps.
Good luck ;)

Hi, did you manage to solve your issue ? I'm having the exact same issue @0.15mm on a MK3S+ via PrusaSlicer 2.4.0-RC2, nozzle is hitting the horns and that lead's to a X axis shifting 5min before the end of this 15h print :(.
In which orientation where you printing ? I tried with the dragon facing the front of the printer, maybe it will be better to try with the dragon facing the back of the printer ? (better cooling on the horns)

Awesome!! Thanks a lot for letting me know ;)

Hey Niholsa, when you printed these did you print direct on print bed (say, if you use a wham bam) or with a support structure? I'm trying to get this one to come out clean on my Phrozen Sonic Mini (admittedly at a fair bit smaller scale than 80%), and I keep getting parts of the model lost to FEP adhesion when trying direct to print bed... so I'm curious if you used supports. :)

(The bits that DID stick moved fine after printing, so that's something. :D)

Nope, no supports or anything, and directly on the printing bed, no quick release or anything. I am using the v2 version of the model, no the 2.3, if that makes a difference. One thing I will note, I have the best luck with the translucent red and green Inland resins, the opaque Inland resins seem to weld themselves to the FEP film when I try them. Of course, your mileage may vary.

Oh, and the first time I tried this, I sliced with anti-aliasing, and the moving joints all fused together.

So far, my mileage is mostly out of gas! :D Thanks for replying, I'll keep trying... and I appreciate the advice on the resins and model version that worked for you. :) I saw a tiny bit of fusing in the finer tail bits (of the parts that did print okay) when I cured, but a slight amount of pressure got them moving, so I was hoping I wasn't too far off... but sounds like I'm missing something fundamental. I'll try some other test prints, see if it's my FEP going or something. (Also thanks Mcgybeer for the awesome design! :) )

Hi!
I printed them at 0% infill and they are quite sturdy. However, some infill or extra perimeters will help of they are going to have lot of activity

That detail level is not necessary, unless you want it that way or if printing really small. At 100% scale and 0.15 mm layer it takes about 14 hours in a Prusa Mini. At 120% and 0.2 mm layer it's about 34 hours in a larger printer.
Hope it helps!

I haven't printed on resin yet, but I read about several people who did. If you are scaling the model down, you need to precisely tune your printer settings. If you overexpose the resin, the parts have some horizontal expansion and fuse together. I've read also that antialias also affects on this.

Hope this helps!

They are supposed to insert, but depending on the printer the tolerance might not be enough, or on the contrary, too much. You can try printing again just the whiskers (mustache?) at a slightly smaller scale. Probably 98% should be enough, or even smaller if they still don't fit.
Hope this helps!

LOL! Now that I think about it, I resized the model but never resized the whiskers. This is 100% user error. :)

XD

It depends on your printer. The curled one is the original design and fits better most of the printers. The straight one was a request from some users to print it on mill printers (like the CR30)

Hi!

It needs some gaps while printing for the parts to be printed separately and don't fuse together. And those gaps are that extra mobility you have when printed. But can't be printed already on that shape, it will increase the probability of failure.

Regards! ;)

You are looking for this: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/nice-flexi-dragon

Hi!
I'm sorry to hear that. I just answered the user below, which has a similar issue (I guess). By not articulating, do you mean they fuse together? As I said to the previous user, you could try printing it in 2 parts and cutting a gap on one of the links with tweezers to be able to assemble it. But I'm afraid it may fall apart.
Good luck!

If the tail was not articulating directly as you removed it from the bed, it likely means you are either a) using anti-aliasing (a bad idea for precise prints), or b) over-exposing your layers with cure times that are longer than necessary. Both of the aforementioned will generally cause expansion of the resin as it prints, often leading to parts that are fused together. I printed this last night on my Saturn at 75% and it worked totally fine. I recommend the XP Resin Validation Test to fine tune your resin exposure settings.

Hi @TRANKILLITY!
Thanks a lot for the explanation and the tips. I am usually using anti-aliasing, but I'll take that into account next time. Didn't realize it could cause expansion, and it makes a lot of sense.
Have a nice day!

Hi!
I'm sorry to hear that. Do you mean they broke or get fused together? The parts can't be printed separately, because the links are closed loops. One thing I did while testing the model is print some parts individually, so I can see how they look, and then I cut a small gap on the vertical link with tweezers. However, it ended falling apart. I haven't printed it myself in resin yet, but I've seen several people printing it at 50%. Maybe you can reach them to ask for printing parameters.
Good luck!

The STL is 33MB, and the 3MF is about 10MB

I use Blender and a graphic tablet

Hi!
I'm sorry, my designs have non-commercial license (CC BY-NC-ND 4.0)
Thanks for asking ;)

no problem. thanks for responding. if you decide to sell commercial licensing for it let me know. I realy like your designs.

Just to be sure. This design too is licensed CC BY-NC-ND 4.0 ? Because there is no license information at the top of the page, implying All rights reserved.

I just added a straight version of the model. The design is exactly the same, so no need to reprint ;)