Fonceuse Anycubic KOBRA S1

Hello and thank you for the feedback. I understand the purpose of the design. I may look into it eventually but have a few projects presently. Could this not be screwed on the riser instead of the ACE?

This linked design does not seem to fit :(
Would be nice if you can find some time for this...well.."problem" with the hanging ptfe tubes there :D

I will look into it but it would be after my vacations.

Hello and thank you for the feedback and very nice build. First, the design has been unchanged since launch and there have been over 700 downloads and many builds. This issue has never came up so it is probably something on your end. I suspect your riser is not fully seated in the cavity where the lid used to rest (from the photos the back is not flush with the back of the printer) and as a result you do not have enough clearance for the display stand. Secondly, you can remove the lid you just need to push it backwards a little and then lift it out. Unfortunately not much can be done there with the way the display is. Give this a try and let me know.

Looking a little closer I would try to push the riser in the cavity - it seems to be lifted by 2 mm or so at the front. Tolerances are tight but not so much as it would not fit. Also, are the printer corners square (sometimes the sheet metal is not 90) something to check but trying to rule out all possibilities as this is a 1st.

One other point - there is a small amount of support at the bottom rear of the riser. Did you remove this?

The rear support has already been removed.

I'm afraid my top plate is larger. I've removed the front bridge, but even then, I couldn't get the plate open because the sides of the riser block it. See pictures. I measured the top plate, and it measures 37.5 cm x 33.5 cm. The riser is flush with the printer at the back. I added an additional part to the back right, so it looks like it's not flush ;)

By the way, in the picture where it's hanging 2mm in the air, I positioned the riser the way it should be, and yes, then it would be floating in the air.

https://ibb.co/9kNkmW13
https://ibb.co/Q7TjcmqM
https://ibb.co/MD24Cf01
https://ibb.co/tw39VQ85
https://ibb.co/BV3mkDrG

Sorry for my english, its google translater :D

Oh my god, I'm so stupid! I didn't realize the top plate had to go on the riser. Sorry! Now it fits 100%. Thank you for the great design!

https://ibb.co/q30CYYW6

Greetings from Germany!

LOL happy to hear you got it all sorted out and that it fits. Congrats again on the build - it is very nice. Also thank you for the support.

The Kobra S1 riser requires about 2kg of filament for the base unit including drawers and inlays.

Thank you for the feedback and support. The drawers will be a little tight at first but after some use they will fit just snug. PETG will give a tighter fit. If you find that sliding the halves together is tight - go slowly and make sure they are well seated and aligned otherwise your drawers will sang. The 4 holes are optional. At first on some of my other models users were a little worried about the Ace falling. It has never happened and as far as I know no one screwed their Ace down. I keep them there should someone want them. GL with the rest of the print.

The 0.6 mm and 0.3 layer height may be an issue as I never tested it. Maybe print a sample of the main components before printing all of it. ie. 1-2 cm high and test the dovetail fit. GL

To be honest, I didn't read the "manual" before I started printing, so the main parts are already out and as I wrote, they fit, they are just tight, but I'm perfectly ok with that. ;)

I also might have gone with PLA if I read before start printing, but I dialed in my PETG settings so perfect that in general I prefer to print everything in PETG instead of PLA.

Thanks for explaining the history of the holes, I was not worried that the ACE Pro will fell off, I was more worried to have to align the holes (at least the first two) to fix the ACE Pro. Now that it is not needed, I'm relieved. :D

Now I'm only worried by the sagging you mentioned before in one of your answers happens with PETG and not PLA, but if that happens, I'll just print everything out of PLA, I guess I have not much to do about that anymore.

If the dovetail joint fits then the rest will be fine. The sagging was on account of one particular filament. You should be fine there as well. GL with the rest of the print.

There's one more question I have: can I modify the build plate holder? Will it interfere with anything, like add-ons (don't know yet which one I will use in the future) if I add more holders to plates to it? Currently it can hold 2 plates, what if I add two more slots there?

It will just limit the opening of the lid. Also, I do have a lid holder that would no longer work (see my add-ons). Apart from that it should not be an issue.

I barely print with PLA and if I do, I still keep the lid close, so I think that won't be an issue for me. But the add-ons on the sides will be fine, right? I see there's a plenty of space there, I just thought it's better to ask. :)

The add-ons do not extent to the interior so you will be fine.

Thank for the support and feedback.

Thank you for the support and feedback. Happy to know it worked out with PETG and that you are happy with the model.

I tested in PLA. Some have printed in PETG but in such case the tolerances may be tighter.

Ez annyit jelent,hogy nehezebb lesz összerakni, esetleg kis igazítás szükséges lehet?

It all depends. Each printer and filament is different. It may be a little tighter but should not be impossible. The part that will be the issue is the dovetail for the two halves of the riser. You can do a quick test. Print 1 cm high of each half of the riser drawer cabinet and test the dovetail fit. If there is an issue it will be there.

Igazából megoldhatatlan probléma nem lesz szerintem. Max igazítok rajta utólag.

You should be fine but I rather give a bit of caution in case. Good luck with the print and please let me know how it went. This way I will have a better answer next time someone wants to use PETG

Ha elkészül mindenképp jelzem majd a tapasztalataimat! Remek modell!

Thank you

You need to mirror them in the slicer.

Use my print profile

Thank you for responding so quickly. When I select mirror it gives me three selections. Along x axis along y axis along z axis . I believe I need to select the y axis.

depends how it is laid out. If flat x or y should do. To simplify things, just use my print profile and use clone. There are 3 of each side. You can clone (copy these) as well. Simply add a new build plate and move what you want to print there.

Hello and thank you for the support. For the S1 riser, the build plate holders are removeable. This is to allow replacement if they ever break and to allow for future upgrade as well. Each holder has a stopper so prevent the build plate from sliding back beyond the riser. I suspect you installed them in reverse with the stopper in front. If you reverse them all should be fine. Let me know if you have any other questions. Thank you

Doh. Found it. Under the drawers, in the space above the lid. Nevermind!

No problems. Thank you for the support. Happy to hear that PETG worked and that you are happy with the riser. Also, there is an instruction gif and pictures if you need them. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Yes it is printed on the S1. Are you using my print profiles (the 3mf files). Also there is a a bug with AC Slicer next. Do not open it from Window File explorer but open the AC Slicer and then use the file open feature to open the 3mf print profile.

Hi Darren, Thanks for the fast response. I am opening the file through AC slicer next and then opening your 3mf file through that, It still put all the plates and objects off the plates and keeps giving me error messages.

Think I've sorted it now. Thanks

That is a bug with the AC Slicer next. You may have to reposition the parts. Sorry there is not much else I can do. Maybe try to close the Ac slicer and re-open.

About 2.5 - 3 days depending on the add-ons etc. The base unit is 2 days 21 hours.

Does the ace pro have any issues with vibrating of the riser or is it locked in place thanks.

It is locked in place.

Thanks bud !!.....paid and looking forward to printing

Thank you for the support and GL printing.

It should work however a few words of caution. 1. Tolerances may not work as well. Before going too far print 1cm of each of the top cabinet parts and check the dovetail fit. 2. I had one user use a softer PETG and the middle sagged. This is why I recommend PLA - it has more structural rigidity. I doubt you will be using this outside so PETG UV qualities will be of little use. If you do choose to go ahead please let me know how it went. Thank you and GL

Thanks for the warning. I was considering PLA but my room tends to get hot over the summer and we don't usually want to keep the AC running. That was my main concern. I'll be using Creality PETG that I got for a deal.

I will keep you posted and see how it works. If not, I have a bunch of extra PLA spools to reprint lol.

Thank you. Really appreciated

Thank you and thank you for your support. There is already a blank sign STL included. Let me know if you cannot find it

Hello and thank you for your support. First, the no sign file front part is with the files and named "Front left (no sign) v2". Secondly, there should not be a large gap or lip where the parts meet. If you want to reach out to me on Facebook - Darren 3d print - I am in Canada (for time zone). I could see a picture and see what I can do. There are 3 pins to hold the left and right sides together (dovetail joint). Did you use those? It could possibly be because your filament lifted or curled during printing or tolerances. Tolerances is always the issue as not all printers and filament print the same. What filament did you use? Lastly, thank you for the comments. I try to price my models to be reasonable. The fees cover support, filament, design etc. some models fare better than others so it evens out. Also what many forget is I need to buy the printers and print the designs a few times to test everything. I do this for fun and as a hobby so it is always rewarding to see people appreciate the model.

Will do! good to note the left bin after the model has rested no longer catches the right does a little bit but it is 100% tolerance. this is probably the tightest tolerance iv had in a printer so far, so its generally not that large when I get time ill shoot you some pictures on facebook.

I was looking at the double riser to get another ace but I dont really want to reprint the entire riser again is there anyway you can create an add on that sits on top of this standard riser the same way as the double for those who added on another ace later after printing this one? Id pay the same amount as the double riser for a file I didnt have to completely reprint shoot id pay more to not have to use another 1-2kg of filament and the time to print? just a thought.

Hello and thank you for the feedback. Unfortunately it would be very difficult to model and add-on to convert the single to a double. The double has an expanded wall thickness to hold the wings that extend to support the Ace. Have a look at the assembly gift of the dual for a better understanding. I would not feel confident just adding something over the existing single riser. The Dual has been designed to be robust and I am confident that it can hold the dual aces without issues.

That is somrthing I did not know! thanks for the explanation on this. What do you mean assembly gift? GIF.?

sorry yes GIF - got to hate spellchecks!

This depends on your printer. I will clean the buildplate with dishwater soap and lukewarm water prior to printing the larger parts. If you had adhesion issues in the past them maybe consider a brim or even glue. FYI I did not use a brim nor glue.

For assembly - no glue is needed but some like to glue the front left and right part together (where the sign attaches). I did not glue it as the lid groove held all parts in place. If you want to glue them a little epoxy or crazy glue will be all that is needed as the tolerances are tight. GL and looking forward to see build pictures!

Alright, I’ve already printed the other parts and they fit well. But I think you misunderstood me — I wasn’t asking about adhesive for the print bed. I meant, do I need to apply glue to the joints when assembling the large parts together?

I was not sure. I added to my answer. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Hey Pro Guys, I'm totally new with my S1 Kobra and not much experience, what kind of Filament are you using for this Riser? Bought it already but dont want to waste all the PLA and at the end I get told that I should use PTFE or something else :D Whats best to use for this?

Hello and thank you for the support. PLA is perfect. 15% infill and 0.2 mm layer height. In the files you will find a print profile (3mf file) - see the instructions. Use this as all the parts will be laid out ready to print. Use Tree manual support when slicing. There are instructions and a gif instructions in the files as well. Just follow those. If you have any more questions, you can pm me here but best is on Facebook - Darren 3d print.

If you are using my print profiles then set support to tree manual. Nothing else is needed.

Infill is 15%. It is hard to say how the tolerances will be for your printer and filament as this varies. The crucial part is the dovetail joint of the main section (where the drawers are). I was not informed of any issues for this model and quite a number were printed so you should be fine. To be sure you can print 1.5 cm of the Left and Right side rear parts to test the dovetail joint before committing to the full print.

Thank you for your support and the comments.

You will obtain the STL. You will not get STEP or IGES. Also the design has limitations on use and redistribution. Thank you

Congrats on the new purchase and thank you for the support. Any kind of PLA is great. Be sure to read the instructions and use the print profile (3mf). GL

Thank you! This is the first model I've felt compelled to buy. Upgraded from my old ender 3 and figured its time to get a SOLID model. Appreciate your hard work making this.

Happy to hear that. GL with the printing. If you have questions you can ask here or Darren 3D print on Facebook.

Thank you and thanks for the suggestion. How about I just upload that front piece without any holes - should look even better. Let me know what you think. Thank you for the feedback.

Yeah that will work for me.

Done - Left front (no sign) stl is uploaded.

Thanks, just downloaded and it still seems to have the peg holes.

You are right. V2 is up and that one is without pegs

Fantastic, thank you!

Makeronline site has problems from time to time. The file is there. Try again it. The link is good it just worked for me. GL and thank you for the support.

thanks working

Hello and thank you for the support. You are correct, I encourage all to use the 3mf as support etc. is painted and correctly oriented - saves a lot of issues. The parts you mention just need to be mirrored in the slicer. The same goes for my add-ons should you wish to reverse the side they will be mounted on. Happy you like the model.

Thank you. If it is not too much trouble I would love to see some builds here or on Facebook.

Thank you for the feedback. You are correct. An oversight on my end. I have uploaded a revised print profile. Looking forward to the build pictures. Also, I am looking to improve the tooltray so looking for suggestions for features etc.