9 Kommentare

Hi, I am ecstatic that you like the dice, I had a lot of fun making them and it is good to see that my work is loved.

I have only test printed these dice but never painted them as per the render shows with the gloss shine.

You could do the folowing to achieve a similar result to the render;
- A coat of any colour
- An acrylic ink to fill in the pips
- Gloss varnish from a spray can
OR
- 2K gloss clear coat (If you want a robust and sturdy finish)

The 2K clear comes in spray cans for convenience or in a 2 part mix if you have the compressor, and spray gun setup ready.

As for licencing and selling, I never had the intention to make any of my 3D files to be printed and sold by someone withholding a licence that I granted. Sorry to say, at the moment I am not comfortable granting a licence of my work to be sold. I am very unfamiliar with how they work and am not particularly interested in granting one in an area that I have no knowledge of.

Hey, I didn't have any plans on making any additions to the free designs that are available but I can make additions to my paid files that you can view here;
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/simple-tabletop-disc-counters

I have this set here that can go up to 30 varying from 20mm, 30mm, 40mm and 50mm base plates. The major problem with trying to go to 40 on a single dial counter is that it would become huge and the numbers become too cluttered together to be nicely read on a single plate through the peep hole. The 50mm base plate with 30 wounds is pushing it already. Currently the set here doesn't support what you requested but I can make changes to make it work.

I can make an amalgamation of a 20mm/30mm dial counter or a 30mm/40mm dial counter stacked on top of each-other so that the smaller 20mm/30mm counter reads as 1-4 as your first digit and then the 30mm/40mm counter beneath reads 0-9 as your second digit.

Here is a rough example of what I was thinking;
https://imgur.com/a/DbYr2Zm

I will fix the top part of the smaller dial counter to be flat and cut magnet holes into the top of the bigger dial counter and the bottom of the smaller dial counter so that they can fit together and spin freely. I will also make a 0-9 wound tracker so that this idea can work without skipping 10, 20, 30 and 40.

If it looks good to you and you would like to have it I can design it and will add it to my paid collection that I already have. Let me know what you think.

No worries, glad to be of help.

Yes, you can very easily make the objective markers smaller.

Since it is 40mm x 2mm you would simply scale it down to 25% of the original size within your preferred 3D program and export it to get a 10mm x 0.5mm object.

If you still want to keep the depth of the object at 2mm then you can edit the object by X and Y values by 25% and get a 10mm x 2mm object.

Otherwise, I can do this quickly for you and make a private file but you'll need to be specific on which designs and what preferred dimensions you would like to have.

Thanks. It would be fantastic if you could make a file of the 40mm Embossed Numerical Objective Markers at 10mm x 2mm, that would be so helpful.

Hi, I have made the file;

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/10mm-x-2mm-simple-tabletop-objective-markers-19f3641ff62f99016794

Enjoy!

Hi and thanks for your comment,

These files were built, designed and test printed with SLA resin printers in mind, printing with FDM was beyond my scope when I designed these as I do not have experience with FDM. I would recommend printing these files with a resin printer with a magnetic build plate. My expertise with FDM printing is limited as I have never owned or used one so you will have to use your own discretion when it comes to finding a solution from my suggestions. I have done my best and spent time researching and problem solving to help resolve the problem.

The depth of the dial counter numbers are 0.125mm and from what I can see in your slicer is that layer height is too high to capture that level detail on the design and is instead combining the layers together into a single piece rather than slicing the numbers to be visible. There are two solutions that I can suggest to solve your problem;

1 - Adjust printing layer height
If your layer height is something that can be adjusted then I would suggest to make your layer height smaller so that the layers have enough room to print the numbers. The depth for all of the numbers on the files are 0.125mm so if your printer is capable of printing at a layer height that works for the 0.125mm height I would suggest doing so. Here are some provided images of the different results when the layer height is adjusted in the slicer program: https://imgur.com/a/DEU20Bi

From the images provided you can see that the standard 0.2mm layer height for FDM does not capture the detail of the numbers whereas the sliced file at a layer height of 0.12mm does capture the detail of the numbers.

2 - Adjust the depth of the dial counter numbers
If adjusting layer height is something that cannot be adjusted then this is your next best solution to make it work is to adjust the file itself. Similarly to the question asked below, the quickest and easiest way to make the numbers deeper would be to open a 3D editing program such as Blender, import your STL file, enter edit mode, select the faces you want to deepen and then either extrude them or move them along the corresponding global axis a set amount that your slicer can print correctly. Here are some images with a side by side comparison using the same layer height but with the depth of the numbers changed: https://imgur.com/a/TIFWwUM

I hope that these suggestions can help you find a resolution to your files. If you need further help with this issue I can try and provide it.

Thanks for your anwser! My bad i thought it was for fdm! Ill try all of this thanks!

Hi and thankyou kindly.

The shallow pips are an intentional design choice since the prototypes with deeper pips had terrible balance when rolling them. I originally designed them to have deep pips for easy painting but they were terrible balance wise. I always wanted these dice to be used in play and while testing with the deeper pips they would 'snap' to other sides of the D6. I decided to design them to have shallower pips so that it would be better for fair play while not sacrificing the aesthetic of the designs. I tested them several times and the files currently have a happy balance between the 6 faces.

I do not have the files that had deeper pips anymore and I do not recommend them. I can recreate them with deeper pips however I would never recommend them for rolling/fair play.

The simplest way I would recommend to make deeper pips and icons on the D6 would be to import the STL files into Blender, enter edit mode, choose a side of the D6 you want to change, select the faces you want to deepen and then extrude them along the corresponding global axis a set amount. Rinse and repeat until you have them as deep as you desire on all 6 faces.

Thanks for the reply, that's fair enough. I plan on playing them in game so I'll see if I can find a different way to just make them a bit easier to read. Thanks for getting back to me

Hey, I can make and add the 5" and doubled versions of the 4" and 5" in for you however, at the moment I am away from my main computer that has the original exported stls and blender file that I used to create them. If I had access to them I would do it right now. I will be back home at the end of February and then I will be able to model them along with the originals and add them in for you. I will set a reminder to add them in and update the Cults3D package once I am able to access the blender file.

In the meantime if you had any specific Necron design ideas that you really like and want incorporated into the design you can contact my email or Instagram with the ideas. I just added contacts onto my profile, feel free to use them if you like.

Awesome! I definitely have a couple ideas for cool designs to add so I'll get in touch. Thank you!

An update; I have the 5"x1", 8"x1" and 10"x1" files ready and made and am now just tweaking the image and zip files onto Cults. You should see an update for the newly included files soon.

Yes. You absolutely can print them with a resin printer and I recommend you do. I have printed my designs with a resin printer and intended that all dice that I design to be printed with a resin printer.

The files can be built and printed directly on the build plate with a little bit of clean-up afterwards. Just be gentle and patient when you scrape them off of the build plate. I recommend placing the D6 with the paw pip 1 side of the D6 facing the build plate for less clean up from the overexposed layers.

These are the settings I recommend and have used for printing my dice designs using an Anycubic Photon Mono 4K with Anycubic Standard Grey Resin;
- Layer Thickness (mm): 0.035
- Normal Exposure Time(s): 2.500
- Off Time(s): 0.500
- Bottom Exposure Time(s): 10.000
- Bottom Layers: 1

Keep in mind the inevitable elephant's foot when printing directly on the build plate.

Happy printing!