拉斯家园模型 1/12 比例

这是我的拉斯家园模型。我按照 6 英寸（1/12）的比例设计了它，以适应宜家的比利书架。它采用了 FDM 和树脂打印技术。这是一个 "半 "透视模型，也就是说，它不是一个完整的建筑，而是为了放进书架而设计的。FDM 部件设计为在较大的打印机上打印，最小**360 毫米 x 360 毫米。我使用的是 Anycubic Kobra Max 打印机，它的占地面积为 400 毫米 x 400 毫米。

**此模型包括我的水分蒸发器模型，我的 Gonk 机器人是免费的（模型链接如下）。

拉斯家园是《星球大战》中最具标志性的地点之一，也是《星球大战》电影和电视剧中多个场景的取景地。我在这些模型中加入了大量细节，因此，FDM 雕刻部件的多边形数量非常高：

入口小屋：480 万个三角形，360 毫米（宽）x 180 毫米（深）x 223.5 毫米（高）

沙盘（长）：4.3M 三角形，331 毫米（宽）x 254 毫米（深）x 56.25 毫米（高）

** 砂板（R）**：4.4 米三角形，331 毫米（宽）x 254 毫米（深）x 56.25 毫米（高）

这是一个大型印刷品。透视模型的整体尺寸为宽 762 毫米（30 英寸），深 255 毫米（10 英寸），高 252 毫米（9.9 英寸）。这也是一个多媒体项目，由于打印机的不同，您的部件在打印后可能无法立即拼合在一起，至少需要打磨一下才能拼合。

在我的 Anycubic Kobra Max 上打印 FDM 零件大约需要 6 天半的时间。树脂部件在我的 Anycubic Photon Mono X 6K 上打印大约需要一天时间。

下面是完整的零件清单：

FDM

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1.入口半径

2.沙盘 (L)

3.砂板（R）

4.台阶

树脂：

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1.展示牌

2.门口

3.控制面板

4.埋桶

5.立式桶顶

6.立桶底

7.通风管

8.三脚架管

9.地面管

10.水泵

11.灯笼

12.燃料罐

13.蓝色牛奶壶

14.格里布利盒 1

15.格利布利盒 2

16.箱底（打印 2）

17.方框顶部（打印 2）

18.蒸发器底座

19.蒸发器中部

20.蒸发器顶部

21.蒸发器收集器（打印 3）

22.小屋管道

这是我的 Gonk Droid

[创造冈克]

这是我的欧文叔叔和贝鲁阿姨

[创造欧文叔叔和贝鲁婶婶]

这是我的塔图因盒子套装

[创造塔图因盒子]

Printing

The models are provided as STLs and are oriented the way I printed them myself. I leave supporting them up to you, but here is how I did it:

FDM Parts
I used Cura 5.7 to slice all the FDM parts. I used tree supports and a skirt. The Entry Hut and both sand plates are supportable from underneath, though the sand plates have sockets for the Steps that will also need supporting. The steps only need supporting on the tabs for the sides. The tabs and sockets will require sanding cleanup, but they're completely hidden when the diorama is complete. I printed the hut in grey PLA, and the sand in tan PLA.

Once the parts were finished printing, I used a chisel and foam sanding block to clean up the tree supports and generally clean up any rough bits. Then I used a clear red 3D printing resin as a coating for the FDM parts. I put the parts on cardboard, used a sponge applicator from your nearest home improvement store to coat the top and sides of each part in a thin coating of resin, taking care to not get resin in any of the "sockets" in the sand plates. Then I quickly used an airbrush to blow out the few bubbles that formed, but canned air should work as well. Just keep the can far enough away to not redistribute the resin, then take it out in the sun and cure it until the resin is completely cured. For me, this took 5 mins under the Vegas sun using the clear red resin. Then I repeat the resin coating process a second time. The reason I do this is because the viscosity of the resin causes it to sit in the troughs that result from FDM printing, resulting in an overall flatter surface that is much easier to sand smooth. PLA . Once all the resin is cured, I start rough sanding with 100 grit, then again with 220 grit, 400 grit and final sanding with 600 grit. For the sand plates, I sanded with the sculpted sand dunes.

Resin Parts
I sliced using Lychee Slicer. I primarily use Anycubic ABS-Like Pro 2 resin. The models are oriented the way I printed them. For resin parts, I generally start with auto generated medium supports, then I remove and add as I have learned by trial and error. Generally speaking, autogenerated supports should be a good starting point. Most of these models are designed to be supported with as few supports on the most visible parts as possible. For example, the greeblie boxes are hollow and are designed to be completely supported from the inside, and incorporate drain holes in the top. Likewise with the Jug, the Box Bottom, Standing Barrel Top and Bottom, and the 3 main parts of the Vaporator. Once the parts are printed, I remove the supports, wash in 91% isopropyl alcohol, then a few minutes final curing in the curing station and a light sanding.

Finishing

Once both sets of parts are done, I try to dry fit the parts and then sand them down so that they fit loosely. This allows room for the paint layers.

I prime the FDM parts with black rustoleum plastic primer. For the hut, I paint it a matt light cream color, also from Rustoleum. The sand plates, I painted terra cotta (Again, Rustoleum). Once the base colors are dry, I grab some 220 grit sandpaper and some pastel chalks. I use a combination of black, brown, tan, rust and mustard chalks. I grind them into powder on the sandpaper, and then use various paint brushes and my fingers to brush into the recesses and corners, and to shade large sections. Once I am happy, I seal the part with rattle-can flat clear, and then touch things up with some brushed blackwash drips and such. The sand plates took 2 passes each, because I used white and yellow chalk to go lighter on the tops of the dunes, and when I applied the clear, all the high lighting disappeared, so I applied it again, and the second time it stuck.

For the resin parts, I use Vallejo airbrush gray primer. Most of the parts were airbrushed flat grey or black, and than brush accented with chrome silver, black-wash, red/green/blue for the panel buttons, before finally getting weathered with pastels like the FDM parts. For the resin parts, I like to use a satin clear. It helps them pop a bit more.