109 commentarios

Hello Donbof1417 =D

Sure, check out my IG, it is @rdd_engineering. There I show some pictures of the Overhead building process, it may help you.

Let me know if you need anything else.

Regards,
RDDesigns.

Hello Michael =D

Thank you for your purchase! I hope you enjoy 3D printing the panels. 😄

Regarding the differences, the main change is that in the V1 version, the Korry squares had a recessed frame to allow the Korry body to fit more easily. I decided to remove this feature in V2, as it didn't seem to be useful for most customers. Additionally, I made some slight measurement corrections in the V2 version. If you're printing the panels for the first time, I would recommend using the V2 version.

Regards,
RDDesigns.

Great thanks that's what I wanted to know. I am printing the "Example File" you included in white PLA to try and see if my Bambu Labs P1S is up to the task. This Example file is not labeled either v1 or v2 . Can you tell me which version it is please?

Hello Neosim,

Unfortunately I’m already selling my panels with a huge discount, so I can’t go lower than that…

Let me know if you need anything else =)

Regards,
RDDesigns.

Hello Aferalgoose =D

No problem at all! I’ve already initiated the refund for the frame you purchased. Don’t worry, Cults will likely contact you soon and process the refund on their side.

If you need anything else, just let me know.

Best regards,
RDDesigns.

That is incredibly kind of you, I really appreciate you!!

You’re very welcome!

I’m really glad to help, just trying to do things right in this all-wrong world =D

Regards,
RDDesigns.

Hello =D

Of course! You can count on it.
Just keep an eye on the listing — in a few minutes it will be updated with the STL for the wooden box frame.

Let me know if you need anything else!

Best regards,
RDDesigns.

Just got it, thank you again RDDesigns for everything you do!

You’re welcome, I’m really glad to help. =D

Hello Thierrypriego =D

603x53mm if you use one display for the AP section and 82.5x52.5mm for the EFIS displays.
There are some pretty good mechanism's avaliable for free in thingiverse to create the push and pull buttons.
About the PLA, I bought them from a local brand in my country. I'll let a link for BambuLab ones, but any brand should work fine. https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/pla-translucent?srsltid=AfmBOors1w4G8l2Tw-2KO6O8FzbAvgcH_XBEQXMy49y4gHgrTtO3iVTk

Let me know if you need anything else.

Regards,
RDDesigns.

Hello, thank you for your reply. Is it possible to print your files on an Ender 3 with a 250 mm x 250 mm build plate?

Thank you very much.

Error, the Ender 3's build plate is 220 mm x 220 mm

Hello Thierrypriego,

Yes, don’t worry. All the glareshield parts can be printed on an Ender 3. You’ll just need to use the split version of the panels and glue the pieces together after printing. That’s actually how I built the entire overhead you see in the pictures — I even used an Ender 3 =D

Let me know if you need anything else.

Regards,
RDDesigns.

Hi,
great, I bought your files and I'm going to print them.

Thanks again.

Hello, what type of display did you use for the FCU and EFIS? Do you have any part numbers?

Thank you. Regards.

Hello =D

I recommend using Kav Simulations displays, as they are a ready-made and fully Mobiflight-compatible solution. However, many users also choose to use seven-segment displays combined with 3D-printed lettering.

Regards,
RDDesigns.

Hello, after printing the flight control unit (FCU) in split version, the left screen measures approximately 105 mm while the right screen measures approximately 120 mm, which doesn't match my KAV screen. Could you make the right screen the same size as the left? Do you happen to have the files for the small and large Kory buttons, please? I haven't been able to find anything online.

Thank you in advance.

Hello =D

How can I help you?

Regards,
RDDesigns.

Hello Laurence! =D

The panels are designed to fit M4 screws to secure the backplate and frontplate together, there's no need for heat inserts.
Anything from M4x9mm to M4x15mm should work great!

Regards,
RDDesigns.

Hello =D

You should be able to complete the purchase using Cults3D’s internal payment system.

Let me know if you have any issues.

Regards,
RDDesigns.

Hello DPATRIK! =D

Unfortunately I do not sell assembled korry's, just the free files to 3D print them.

Let me know if you need anything else,

Regards,
RDDesigns.

i used a 356x256x256 and just split the overhead panels in half using bambu studio and glued them togeather and it looks just fine

Hey! =D

For the A320 overhead, the biggest panels are around 315mm wide, so ideally you’ll want a printer with at least a 320 x 320 x 385mm bed size. That way, you can print any panel in one piece without needing to use the split files.

With your 220x220 or 250x250 printers, you’ll still be able to print everything — you’ll just need to use the split versions of the panels and then glue or screw the two halves together afterward. That’s actually how I did my real overhead build (the one from the pictures), and it works just fine!

Still, if you can print the full panels at once, it definitely saves some tedious work later on.

Regards,
RDDesigns.

Hello Fer_07 =D

The Embraer fire panel doesn’t include any functional mechanisms. It’s a dummy panel designed purely for mounting, giving your setup a realistic look.

Let me know if I can help you with anything else!

Regards,
RDDesigns.

Hey! That’s awesome to hear

For my build, I mounted the overhead above me using an articulated arm mount. I drilled four holes in the overhead’s casing following the VESA pattern and attached it directly to the arm, which made it sturdy and adjustable.

As for the panels, I didn’t make the overhead 100% functional. I only wired up the essential buttons and switches needed for a simple flight (without failures). To do that, I used two Arduinos and soldered all the panel wires directly to them. The Arduinos are hidden underneath the blank panels to keep things clean and organized.

Hope that helps! Let me know if you need anything else.

Regards,
RDDesigns.

Hello Edithu =D

About the green lines, untill nowadays Im still doing some tests. The best technique I found was to use a simple green marker and hand paint the lines. Its not perfect but it can be a good option, by the way I always tell my costumers to let me know if you figure out any better techniques that may help the community.

Regards,
RDDesigns.

Hello SMUXJS, =D.

Please send me your email so I can send you the PDF for the BOM. I’ll also be uploading it to the Overhead .rar in the next few days.

Regards,
RDDesigns.

Hello, sorry for the late answer. Here my email : semipro192@gmail.com

Hello Manuel.

I’m really glad to hear you liked it! =D

For my build, I used 2x Arduino Mega 2560 Pro Mini boards because my overhead is only partially functional. If you’re planning to build a fully functional overhead, you’ll need 5 boards to handle all the inputs and outputs.

I’ve connected all my LEDs, push buttons, toggle switches, and rotary switches directly to the Arduinos by manually soldering everything, using thin 26 AWG wires and heat shrink tubes.

Since my goal with this project was to build the overhead as cheaply and as DIY as possible, I didn’t use any custom PCBs. But honestly, making a custom PCB would definitely bring your project to a much more “pro level”, especially when it comes to durability and cable management!

For the software, I recommend using Mobiflight.
First, you’ll need to map each input and output (all your switches, LEDs, etc.). Then, inside Mobiflight, you can assign them to the aircraft functions you want. The great thing is that Mobiflight already comes with tons of ready-to-use presets, especially for popular aircraft like the Fenix A320.

Most of the time, you’ll find the preset you need directly in the Mobiflight app. And if not, you can usually find it on their HubHop website, where the community shares even more event presets.

Let me know if you need anything else =)

Cheers,
RDDesigns.

Hi! =D

At the moment, I don’t have a PDF or video available, but I’m planning to make a video soon showing the whole process. As soon as I post it, I’ll share the link with you here!

If you have any other questions in the meantime, feel free to ask.

Best regards,
RDDesigns.

Hello Ashrafayaan!

To assemble the entire Overhead like you see in the pictures, you’ll need to make some Korry switches (I have a free file for that) and gather a lot of other components—depending on whether you want to build a fully functional overhead or just a partial one, like I did.

You’ll need a few 2- and 3-position toggle switches, potentiometers, LEDs, 3-position rotary switches, pushbuttons, and more. The Korry switches should be glued to the back of the panels, while the other components—like the toggle switches—can be mounted directly onto the panels using their own nuts.

Every component should be soldered to an Arduino board. I recommend using the Mega 2560 Pro Mini, as it has the highest number of input/output pins. You may need to use more than one Arduino depending on whether you’re building a partial or fully functional overhead (for a fully functional one, you’ll need about five).

To connect your Arduino boards to your flight sim, I highly recommend using MobiFlight. This is definitely a medium-to-advanced DIY project, but the final result is really worth it—and it can be done for just a fraction of the cost compared to buying one from a flight sim company.

As for the knobs, there are plenty of free designs available on Thingiverse that work well with your potentiometers and rotary switches—just make sure the inner diameter fits your components. You can also use a heat gun to help press them in securely.

Let me know if you need anything else! 😄

Best regards,
RDDesigns

Hey =D

Ganz genau! Die Buchstaben stehen leicht über die Oberfläche der Panels hinaus. Ich empfehle immer, Schleifpapier mit sehr dünnem doppelseitigem Klebeband auf einer flachen Oberfläche (z. B. einem Tisch) zu befestigen und die Panels dann vorsichtig darüber zu ziehen. So wird nur die Farbe auf den erhabenen Buchstaben entfernt, ohne die glatte Oberfläche der Panels zu beschädigen.

Lass mich wissen, wenn ich sonst noch irgendwie helfen kann =)

Viele Grüße,
RDDesigns

Hello Marius =D

You're probably opening the 'Laser version' of the files (these were designed for a few customers who wanted to try laser engraving the panels), which is why you're seeing the plain models. The correct files you're looking for are the regular v2 ones.

About the backlighting I've made a step by step explaining the process with pictures.
Don't worry, it is a simple process. The main idea is basically that the lettering on the panels is a little bit higher than the surface of it, so when you print your panels with transparent PLA, paint them with the desired color and than sand it carefully, you remove the painting that was covering the lettering, allowing light to travel through them creating the backlight effect.

Here are the steps:
Step 1 - https://imgur.com/pUW31WV
Step 2 - https://imgur.com/eU1ybEU
Step 3 - https://imgur.com/3OqwLMS
Step 4 - https://imgur.com/RUAhmhL
Result - https://imgur.com/0duFlUh

Let me know if you need anything else.

Regards,
RDDesigns.