AIRSOFT CARGADOR ELÉCTRICO DE VELOCIDAD - Paquete de actualización a la VERSIÓN AVANZADA

Hi, this is a new issue that have begun to come up. I even got it on my new loader. I suspect some screens are of lower quality.
But i do have a fix for it that have worked on mine and others loaders.
You need to add
2x - 4.7-5.1k resistor
1 between the 5v and A4(SDA)
and
1 between the 5v and A5(SCL)

This should resolve your issue.

https://clip2net.com/s/4nj8nN9 So?

Sorry cant open that link.

here is a link of a sketch i made
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1iMMKidlzaqiOA2Ww139WRLiUHDeVF6Gy/view?usp=sharing

This isn't a viable option... you either need two power sources or suppress the engine interference with stabilizers.

ok, but it does work.
The screen is the one that freezes and not letting the Arduino continue.
The resistors stabilizes it.

Where can I get a counter ring for the new wheel and the Beta files, basic version\Feeding Wheels folder? It's bigger and the old one doesn't fit. https://ibb.co/cczM6f9j

it's in Beta files, "advanced version\Counting Wheels"

you are looking in the basic version download.
The counting wheels are for advanced version.

Do the same for advanced riders. This wheel is very convenient.

Sorry, not sure what you just said. Advanced riders?

I'd recommend a pro version with a feed wheel like this. It's more reliable.

I might just be misunderstanding you. I'm sorry if so.

But the wheel you sent a picture off is in the advanced version. under Beta files

Nothing helps... neither the capacitor nor the resistors, it freezes whenever it wants (((( https://ibb.co/JWmgtmWr

Then I'm sorry to say that I don't know what could be causing it.
With the previous people that had this problem, and one of my own loaders, this was the solution and fixed it right up.
Never got the freeze again.

I was able to overcome the freezes only by adding this BNX016-01 filter to the screen power line.

Huh, well done and thanks for telling me and other that might get the same problem.

i added a notch in your Main_boy for the new cablemanagment. I hope it is okay.

Looks good, well done. :)

This is a hard one.
There have been many different results for people.
Personally I have both PETG and PLA+ wheels that have been working for over a year now.

What I usually do is 6 walls, 25 infill. But the "teeth" of the wheel isn't big enough for 6 walls, so I don't know how much it really does for strength. Maybe print a little hotter for better layer adhesion could help.

I used many different materials. However, the gears are crushed. I produced 12 of them and they are actively used. But I couldn't solve this problem.

That sad to hear.
After I've released my next loader I will make an upgrade for my older ones. An anti clog wheel and nub, that would help with wear and tear that might happen during BBs getting to the wheel and down the chute. But wear and tear from loading mags is harder.
Sadly I have no idea what could be the cause. As I've printed on wheels on 3 different printers and all with the same result.
Maybe something is misaligned and cause extra wear and tear.

Let me do some review and I will follow the new model

Hi!
You are missing the libraries in Arduino IDE.
In the manual there should be a section about installing libraries and what libraries needed.

Hope this helps you and please tell me if you still experience problems.

Sorry I ment the micro switch with roller arm not the rocker switch

Sorry i dont really have a neater diagram than the ones provided in the manual.
There could be a wire without proper connection. Like if you are using a WAGO wire clamp, it might have clamped down on the isolation plastic around the core, instead of the metal.
Go over the wiring and see if there is proper connection.
If you have a multimeter tool, it would help you see if everything connects as it should.

That is what i think is the most probable cause of this.

Sorry for the late response, I have been away or your comment took a while to be approved by cults.

Hope this help and good luck.
Please tell me how it works out. :)

Hey no worries about the late response, ill go over the wiring again during the week, I think I have a mate who has a multi meter tool that I'll try borrow, I do think I might be a loose connection somewhere

It most likely is. I've been a victim to that so many times.

Hey Bub, just wanted to say I got it all working now, I was a loose wire🤘🏼thank so much for the amazing files, ill do a post of it completed when I get a chance

Amazing to hear! Thanks for the update.

16 have worked very well for me. And if you are going to use cnc, no need to go lower.

Fair warning, I'm working on a new loader with some upgrades. Some upgrades will come for this one as well and the wheel will change a little bit. But it's hard for me to say when. At least not for a month or two.

Cool thanks for the heads up. Are you talking about your “Midi” project? Can your reveal whether it will use the hardware that is also used for this model here? On instagram you mentioned a 360 servo but will the other hardware like switches and voltage regulator be the same?

Yes the Midi project. It will use some of the same hardware.
It will use the 60kg motor. It will be somewhat backwards compatible, so the old 60kg motor will work, but I recommend the new motor.

Same switch for the press down mechanics, same voltage regulator. But wont be needed if you use a 2s battery.
Same relay module i think... but wont be needed if you use new motor.

I'm currently not using arduino UNO, only the arduino nano every. But i think the uno would fit.

Sounds good. I was just collecting the necessary parts. I also saw you testing a 360 degrees servo. I was looking for them on AliExpress but so far didn’t find a 60kg 360 degree. Or will it be the “old” 60kg motor that we need to manipulate to go 360 instead of 180/270?
Anyway, looking forward to printing your stuff, thank you for your creations!

It's a new one that is 360 stock. So that one will not be needed to be manipulated.

Dont have the link right now. But pretty much all parts will have an AliExpress link at release.

Again thanks. I will wait but if it could be this one
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EzRe9mE
I will be prepared at the day you release it :)

It's this one.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003796403623.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.63.21ef1802er5R9e
So same shape as the other one. Just a small adjustment was needed to make it fit.

Excellent, will be a nice project!

Any update on how things are going and when a release can be expected? :)

haha unsure, but i can atleast say it's going forward. :)

Not yet. Will be coming after im done with my next loader. It has anti jam functions and I will do my best to make versions for my older ones as well.

Thank you for that u working on that.

Alright, on the first point, no solution right now. I'm working on a quicker stop solution on my new loader. If I can, I will implement it on this one too.

On the second one I do have a solution. Recently found this bug on my new one and found a solution.
You need a couple 4.7kΩ - 5.1kΩ resistors.
They need to be a bridge between the 5V and the A4(SDA) and the A5(SCL) that goes to the screen.
So one goes between 5v and A4 and one goes between 5v and A5.

The problem is electrical noise from the motor that mess with the screen and get the arduino to freeze. So the resistors help filter that away. I havent had the problem since.

Great! Thanks for your quick reply!
I suspected it was a problem of this kind because I checked my wiring several times.
I'll try your solution of adding the two resistors tomorrow and let you know the result.
Thanks again!

Great! Let me hear the results. If it works I'll add it to the trouble shooting section of the manual for this one as well.

Hi! I worked on it today and finally solved both problems! I'll send you the explanations in a private message first.

Can you show me how you solved the problem with the loader? How you installed the resistors?

The PDF is in the files provided here.

Excuse me if I don't understand, I'm new to this. In the description I don't see any electronic guide. I suppose the guide file (the PDF) to see the necessary electronics

Send me an email, it's on my profile. And i'll try to help you tomorrow.

Have you changed anything in the code? Because otherwise it should work.

I haven't changed anything besides the name.

Have you received the email?

Ye sorry, just been a really long day and forgot to check it out.
I'll do it now.

is okay

It's in the manual.

You need something to store it in. I use an old ammo box from a military surplus store.
The assembled 3D printed parts has the dimensions of
255mm Long
86.5mm Wide
167mm Tall
So you need a box that can fit that.

The metal box I use has an inner dimension of 256x87x170mm.
And the outer dimension of 280x90x180mm.

7.62

I'm ok with that.

всё равно купили, через разные сервисы, ваш товар. Вы большой молодец, у вас есть талант, спасибо вам.)

можешь посоветова, ерез какой сервис можно купить? а то ни напрямую с карты, ни через пэйпал, ни через страйп не выходит... все же РФ

Oplata Guru , Я брал через этот сервис, комиссия 100%

Sorry, i have no idea.

I recommend the 16 toothed one. Works great for me, but if you see major wear and tear, go down to about 14. :)

I should probably go ahead and make the v2 the standard now. I've tested it enough to know it works better.

Ok ^^, again a big thank you for your work when I see the final result, as said there is just the fixing of the screen which makes a "stain" with the rest but I understand that it is complicated to find an alternative when I see the composition of this one

Ye the screen isnt the best. I just didnt find a better option at that time. Might do some work on it in the future.

It's me again xD, I used an Arduino Nano while doing V2 and I noticed that your adapter doesn't work, finally I didn't find the right screws to fix it, I have M1.4 that go through and the M2 doesn't go into the Nano, I found an extension card for the Nano that was lying around in a drawer, I didn't look at modeling a support I just stuck it with double-sided tape, maybe interesting to put it in the list of equipment

Could you describe in what way it doesn't work?
If it is the screws. Correct screws should be 1.5m I think. But a piece of tape certainly works too.

There is also a community made file for another solution.
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadget/arduino-nano-breakout-i-o-panel-mounting-plate-for-bb-loader

Haaa yes indeed I didn't find any M1.5 x)
And I didn't look well for the adapter, a big thank you to you ^^

No problem. :)

Thank you so much. :)

Not at a computer so I can check the list right now.
But
The most expensive parts is the motor and the arduino.
The motor you can see on the basic version parts list.
The arduino is either a Arduino uno, or a arduino nano every.

The other parts are generally pretty cheap.

I havent heard of the round servo mount being damaged before.
Do you use the 35 or the 60kg motor?

If the 60, it is known to damage the feeding wheel if you run it on too high of a voltage.
It is a really strong motor and wont stop for anything it seems, if run on it's recommended voltage. I recommend a much lower one. I think I put 4.2 volt in the manual. It seems to work for me. So far.

I'm looking into a new design of feeding wheel. But havent had time for it and wont have for atleast a month sadly.

I use a 35kg servo and a 11v lipo from my airsoft gun. I gibt the 4.2 also a try

I havent personally seen the feeding wheel get totally destroyed on 35kg motor. I've had some damage on the A16 feeding wheel, but not too much.

But I just remembered now that I've talked with a guy who also tried ABS on the feeding wheel and it also got damaged really easily. I've personally only used PLA+ and PETG and it have worked well.
Maybe the ABS material isn't good for the feeding wheel.

I made the following changes which led to success:

• Metal servo adapter
• 2mm spacer (feeding wheel on servo to housing distance was too low)
• A14 feeding wheel

DC Stepdown to 6.8V

with this i dont have an Issue since 50 Mags

Thanks for the follow up. :)
I'm happy to hear about the success.

Hey i have then same problems my feeding wheel ist constantly breaking :( with 6.8V it is Printed out of PETG @michigixxer what do you meant with “A14 Feeding wheel” ?

Hey, I ordered a stainless steel feeding wheel from craftcloud.

You can upload the file and instantly ordere i at the cheapest factory

no matter what I tried it was always destroyed and jammed

Hi!
sounds like a wire might be a little loose/not good connection. As the 11.1v battery is more powerfull than the usb. It should be no problem for the battery to power the arduino.

Are you powering through a dupont/exeperiment cable into the vin slot? - Might be a little loose.
Also check the -/GND cable, if it is loose it will also not power correctly.

That or the battery might be undercharged, you might have checked it already, but if you havent, make sure the battery is holding a charge and havent broken or such.

the battery is fine, the wires are connected tightly and in a 5.5x2.1mm size on the expansion board for arudino nano

Then im not sure, sorry. Electronics isnt really my area, and I havent had anyone else with your problem. So I havent heard a possible solution to your problem yet. :/

Okay, thanks anyway. I will look for ways to solve this problem:)))

Awsome to hear. Will try to add that comment section to the manual.
Thanks for the link. ;) looks like a nice board to use. Will pick one up for sure. :)

Good idea, will fix that.

I would like that very much.

So I did create a PDF and TIFF, how can I send them to you?

Awesome, thank you so much. :D
If you have instagram, you could send it to me there. Linked in my bio.
Or if you have a printables account, you could send it to me there. Also linked in bio.

Have to do it this way because Cults dont have private message. :/ And adding a link to something might delay this comment for several days to appear...

Hi, it could be a bounce issue with the Arduino and the signal. Not sure. I'll try to look over the code and see if I can add something that could help. Will inform you once I have a test version up. Maybe today or tomorrow.

Hey, i've tried but couldnt make it well enough to work. I only ruined my own one and had to go back to original code.
I'm not the best programmer, so not sure what i did wrong.

What i can recommend is check the wiring so nothing is loose. Make sure there is no stringing in the holes of the counting wheel. Because it could be seeing strings sometimes if there are some.
It speeding up says that it either sees something, or a wire is loose somehow and makes it think it lose and then gain vision of something. Like if it is turning off and back on again. I'm not sure what it could be.

Hi,
Thanks for your help.
I found the solution by adding a capacitor between ground and sensor wire.
This has the effect of canceling the bounce and keeping only the high part of the signal.
The count is now correct whatever the motor speed.
Congratulations again for the work accomplished.

Oh nice. Well done. Could you describe in more detail what you did? In case someone else gets the same problem.

Also interested in the capacitor added. value etc maybe a link and a photo.

Adding 0.1 µF (104) ceramic capacitor from the signal pin to ground should slove this problem

Hi,
I added a capacity of 100uF/25v between the ground and D2 (the - of the capacity on the gnd and the + on D2).
This has the effect of reducing the rebound effect and making counting more reliable.

I can confirm that adding a capacitor to vin and ground at the nano stabilized the operation and the nano no longer resets randomly. Also I placed a capacitor in the pick up fork as advised above. I would recommend this. as I'm not very knowledgeable on electronic components and followed advice here. It would probably be best to follow the advice in these comments or research the correct values.

can any send me a diagram of how they did the capicator. also my countdown starts but never counts down any advice would be grateful. leonsimp1990@gmail.com

have you checked that the pickup fork is flashing when the ring rotates inside the fork ?

don't see any flashing will check cables over just incase

I noticed some strange behavior with the ball counting. After reading the comments, I realized that I'm not the only one. The problem does not necessarily need to be solved by adding a capacitor between the ground and the sensor wire. Since the sensor wire runs close to the engine, it gets interference. I recommend making a twisted pair of wires or braiding them separately, this way you can minimize interference on the signal wires. You can also use shielded wiring for more accurate operation of all components.
Sorry for my Google translator )

Thanks for the tip!
Had no idea, will try if i get the problem my self.

Hi, could you describe what does not work and in what way?
To my knowldge there isnt a updated electrical diagram.

Hi! It finally worked. I found a poorly conected cable… thank you so much

Ah ok, that happens. :) Happy to hear it started.

That is a fantastic idea. I'll see what i can do about the time function.
Good luck on the week long event. Would love to hear how the performance was during that week.

Thank you for the idea. :D

Hi,
There could be several different causes.
But, i would think it might be the micro switch that you have set up wrong. It has three pins. One "com" that one is incoming. Then we have the two outgoing pins, NC and NO. If you have your wires on COM and NC it will send a signal the whole time while not being pressed. It should then stop if you press down and the micro switch is pressed.

The correct way is Com and NO. But if you already have it like this. Check so the micro switch isnt being pressed in constantly.

If nothing of those, check the relay. It also has a NO and NC port. You want the one going to the motor on NO.

If the relay is getting a signal to switch constantly, you need to check your wiring again. It should only get a signal while the micro switch is being pressed.

Thanks for the fast reply. I just checked and the micro switch is in the correct position and wiring. If i Press the micro switch it stops the motor and it starts to display the bb count until it slows down to a stop. it is an old nano so maybe worth trying a new one.

Ok, as it does start counting, you definietly have the micro switch in the right ordfer.

Check the relay module then. I dont think you need a new arduino.

It is wired the same way. The middle one, usually, is COM, and then one side is NC and one side is NO. So try changing how you have it wired in the relay module. As the NO, normally open, is the one you want the wire in, that goes to the DC-DC step down module.
Once the relay module gets a signal, it changes the connection of COM from NC to NO. And it seems your does that. But you have the wire to the motor, in the NC port.

You are a legend. Fitting output to the DC to DC via NC has solved the issue I Had. I was thinking it needed the signal to start up and work whilst holding the switch down. So that part works now. I do get run on in free mode and sometimes it glitches out but i feel that is my hardware. Thank you for supporting me, and your design. When im done I will add it to here. Cant wait to see what you make next.

Great to hear you got it working. :)

Dont hesitate to ask more if you need help with anything specific.

Thank you so much :)
Yes I'm planning on making an adapter. But I'm not sure when I'll be done. Still in rough stage.

On it's side. I think I uploaded them all in the orientations I printed them in, but i guess it could differ from printer to printer.

You can print it standing up as well. But i dont think it would be as strong then.

cool, have it printing now :-)

I tried using a NEMA motor originally about 2 years ago. It was not strong enough. I might have done something wrong I don't know, but could never get it to work.
Tried three different ones.