366 комментариев

Hi!
The model is in 1:10 scale. It’s built on my own custom chassis, so unfortunately it’s not compatible with Tamiya trucks.

All of my future models are planned in 1:10 scale as well — I’m not planning to make 1:14 versions, unfortunately.

I see, I understand. I watched and look at the documentation of your model. It might be because all the under chassis parts are 3D printed that is why it has to be bigger. Have you tried printing parts using SLA (risen) printer, I wonder if the parts can be printed smaller for 1:14 but yet durable enough.

Regarding resin parts: SLA/resin prints can be very detailed, but for functional RC parts they are usually more brittle and less impact-resistant than FDM plastic. For drivetrain and suspension parts, FDM materials (PLA+, PETG, ABS, nylon, etc.) are generally much more durable and forgiving.

Also, simply scaling the model down is not that easy. If you reduce the scale, all the hardware dimensions will be affected — bearings, screws, shafts, tolerances, and mounting points will no longer match. Some wall thicknesses will also become too thin and weak.

Because of this, I can’t guarantee that scaling the model down (for example to 1:14) will work reliably or be durable enough.

Thank you for the information, it make sense. Well, I wish one day you just repurpose one of your model chassis and create a 1:10 body for tractor truck like Benz, Scania, etc. I like 1:10 scale anyway. Thanks again! My fun begins with this model.

I’d be very happy to create a tractor-truck chassis one day, and I’ve actually thought about it many times. Unfortunately, I don’t have enough time for such a project right now — but the interest and motivation are definitely there.

I’ve also dreamed of building a tractor truck like the one from the Universal Soldier movie — it impressed me a lot when I was a kid 🙂

If you have any questions during the build, feel free to ask. You’re also welcome to join my Facebook group, where you can ask questions and share photos: https://www.facebook.com/groups/mrpaulm.
Enjoy the build!

Hello!
Unfortunately, I can’t transfer purchases between platforms. However, I also update my models on CrealityCloud, so there is no difference — you will receive all updates there as well.
Thank you for your support!

Hello again,
now it happend. Files are private at CrealityCloud, i cant download the files.

Hello Josef,
please send me your email and I’ll send you a promo code to get the models.

Unfortunately, I had to remove the 5-Ton Truck from Creality Cloud due to limitations on their platform. At the moment they have issues handling projects with a large number of files. I’ve already contacted their support and will keep an eye on the situation.

Thanky for your reply, please send it to josefbaues@gmx.net

Hi! There are no STL files available for these tires. For the KamAZ 6350, the maximum tire dimensions are listed in the instructions: 40 mm width, 130 mm outer diameter, and a 2.2-inch inner diameter.

Hello!
No, the axles from the KamAZ 6350 are different from the Dakar series. They use different mounting brackets for the body and leaf springs, and the KamAZ 6350 axles also do not have mounting points for shock absorbers.

Thank you for your reply.

Добрый вечер! Вы можете купить через мою группу в вк: https://vk.com/mrpaulm или напишите мне на почту:paulamp@bk.ru

Hallo Horst,

bei den Center Axles des KAMAZ 8×8 ist alles korrekt:
Um eine Durchgangsachse zu erstellen, müssen Sie lediglich die Kappe „Cap_2“ entfernen und stattdessen eine zusätzliche „Cap_1“ mit Welle und Zahnrad einsetzen.
Damit erhalten Sie eine Achse mit zwei Antriebswellen.

Auf Seite 26 der Anleitung ist dieser Vorgang Schritt für Schritt beschrieben.

Sie können auch gerne meiner Facebook-Gruppe beitreten:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/mrpaulm
Dort können Sie Fragen stellen, Bilder teilen und sich mit anderen austauschen.

Mit freundlichen Grüßen,
Pavel

Hallo Pavel, tausend Dank für die Rückmeldung. Das habe ich übersehen. Toller Service!

По инструкции всё должно собираться без проблем, поэтому, возможно, какой-то элемент установлен не совсем правильно.
Пришлите, пожалуйста, фото — я посмотрю и подскажу, как исправить.

Здравствуйте! Пришлите фото на мою почту, чтобы я смог вам более точно подсказать в чем может быть проблема: paulamp@bk.ru

Здравствуйте, к сожалению, нет.

Добрый день! Спасибо за очень приятные слова!:)
Покрышки использую покупные (под колеса 1.9 дюйма, внешний диаметр 105 мм, ширина 35 мм). Вот ссылка на Алиэкспресс на покрышки - https://ali.click/3fpqql

Большое спасибо за ответ! Печать колёс на 3д принтере тоже неплохо было бы попробовать, По-моему есть и такого размера готовые проекты

Я планирую сделать печатные покрышки для этого проекта:) Взял себе на пробу несколько разных видов резиноподобного филамента для них как раз)
Можете следить за новостями в моих соцсетях ВК: https://vk.com/mrpaulm или Фейсбук: https://www.facebook.com/groups/mrpaulm

Спасибо за ответ! Я следю в ВК! 🙂 фэйсбук в в России не фэйсбук🙂

Bonjour,
Merci beaucoup pour votre message et pour votre achat !

Pour la cabine et la carrosserie, les paramètres d’impression sont standards :
• épaisseur des parois : 1,2 mm
• remplissage : 10 %

Cela suffit largement pour ces pièces.

N’hésitez pas si vous avez d’autres questions ! 😊

Hi! Thank you very much for your message and for building my chassis — I really appreciate it.

1) ESC and receiver mounting
I usually attach both the ESC and the receiver using double-sided adhesive tape. It works great, holds everything in place, and I’ve never had issues with them coming off.

2) Front hubs not staying on the shafts
This usually happens when the printer is slightly out of calibration and the parts come out undersized.
The easiest solution — without doing a full calibration — is to increase the flow rate by about 10–15% for these specific parts.
They will print a bit thicker and should fit the shafts correctly.

3) About updates
If you downloaded the chassis a long time ago, please note that I released an update with improved front wheel steering angles.
You can simply download the updated archive again on Cults3D.
Cults3D also sends an email notification with a list of updated parts.

If you’d like to follow future updates, fixes, and announcements — including direct Google Drive links for updated parts — you’re welcome to join my Facebook group:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/mrpaulm

Merci beaucoup pour votre travail

Thank you for the quick reply.

I'll try it out right away and print the "Front_Hub" and possibly the "Shaft" parts with a higher flow rate.

I've already looked at the new chassis updates and plan to print the new AWD chassis next.

I don't know if it would be too much work, but as a beginner, it would help me if the parts included a short note about how they should be positioned on the print bed and printed.

I'll gladly check out the Facebook group.

Thank you!
All my models are already positioned correctly on the print bed — you don’t need to rotate or move them.
Just add supports if needed and start printing. 😊

Bonjour ! Votre imprimante est excellente 👍🏽
Et son volume d’impression est largement suffisant pour imprimer n’importe lequel de mes modèles — que ce soit la carrosserie ou le châssis.

Bonjour merci beaucoup pour votre aide, je vais commencer par le châssis et après la carrosserie, je suis un débutant.

Je vous souhaite un assemblage facile et beaucoup de plaisir avec le projet 😊

That’s a great idea!
Maybe in the future — I’ll keep it in mind. 😊

Hi!
It looks like your printer isn’t properly calibrated — the parts came out slightly oversized.
The easiest way to fix this without doing a full calibration is to reprint the driveshaft parts and reduce the extrusion flow rate (flow) in your slicer by about 10–20%.
That should make them fit together perfectly.

that makes sense thank you so much

Добрый день. В векторном формате я наклейки не делал, есть только в растровом. Я печатал именно их, из этого файла, который выложен здесь на cults3d.

У меня в городе не смогли напечатать их на плёнке, можно пожалуйста напечатать и отправить мне почтой ?!

Hi! The MK.1 universal chassis is designed only for a 4x4 setup — it’s not expandable to a 6x6 version.

Hello! The interior is not available separately — it was designed specifically for the Kamaz MK2 project)

Hello! Yes, you can absolutely assemble it without the electronics — it will work great as a display model.
However, you’ll still need the shock absorbers, bearings and screws for proper assembly.

Printable tires will be available with the new version of the chassis that’s coming soon.
For this current version, there are no printable tires.

Hello Ralph!
Could you please tell me which project you’re referring to?

Thank you for your message, and sorry — I didn’t create a full step-by-step instruction for the MAZ cab.
However, inside the archive you’ll find a file named FULL.stl showing the complete assembled cab, which you can use as a visual guide for assembly.
Thank you for your understanding!

Obrigado pela sua mensagem! No momento não planejo fazer uma versão apenas com suspensão ou rodas esportivas. O projeto foi desenvolvido especificamente para ser totalmente RC.

Здравствуйте, Ринат!
Спасибо большое за добрые слова, мне очень приятно, что вам понравился мой КамАЗ 8×8 🙏

К сожалению, я не отправляю файлы бесплатно. Надеюсь на понимание — создание таких моделей требует очень много времени и труда.

У меня также есть группа ВКонтакте, где можно следить за новостями и проектами, а также приобрести модель: https://vk.com/mrpaulm.

Спасибо за интерес к моим моделям!

в виде исключения продайте кабину за 500 р