Полностью печатаемый RC-вертолет с фиксированным шагом.

Disclaimer:
Be careful with high speed rotating parts. Improper printing or assembly, or inferior materials, may cause problems. Centrifugal forces of the blades will be be under 70 N under flight, but they are not harmless if something shatters.

The motor used in the prototype is not strong enough to fly well with the body, but flies fine without. I'm still developing. The flybar version is very sluggish. Needs work.

https://youtu.be/bGzuMBU8KG0

Required hardware:
3x75mm main shaft. Make from carbon rod or steel. No drilling required.
Two 3x6x2,5mm ball bearings for the main shaft: https://www.banggood.com/Orlandoo-F150-OH35P01-KIT-Parts-30625-Ball-Bearing-TA0009-p-985250.html?p=HD240528697332015103
One 10x15x4mm ball bearing for the swash plate: https://www.banggood.com/FS-Racing-FS-53910-FS-53625-6PCS-582002-Roll-Bearing-10x15x4mm-110-RC-Car-Parts-p-1153527.html?p=HD240528697332015103
Assorted #0 screws or similar self tapping 1-1,5mm diameter screws and ~6mm (~1/4") length.
Four M2x6mm screws for the main rotor blades and motor installation.
Short lengths of M2 threaded rod to hold the pitch and roll control rods together.

Servos:
Servos:
https://www.banggood.com/JX-Servo-DHV56MG-5_6g-Coreless-LV-Low-Voltage-DSMG-Metal-Gear-Servo-0_89kg-0_10sec-p-1034036.html?p=HD240528697332015103
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigytm-tgy-d56lv-coreless-low-voltage-ds-mg-servo-0-89kg-0-10sec-5-6g.html

Tail motor:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/ntm-prop-drive-13-12-2400kv-40w.html

Main motor:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/c10-micro-brushless-outrunner-2100kv.html (The prototype motor. Needs longer shaft. Easy modification)
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-2211-brushless-indoor-motor-2300kv.html (Needs longer shaft out the bottom end. Easy modification)
2100-3000kv motor should work fine.There are gears for two ratios in the files. The one with the small pinion fits higher kv motors. I attached photos showing how to change the shaft on typical quadcopter motors, which work great for micro helis of this size.

ESC:
Any small 3S capable ESC. I used 6A ESC for the tail and 15 A ESC for the main motor because that's what I had. 6A ESCs are enough for both motors. One ESC needs BEC, the other cna be OPTO.

Battery:
3S 450mAh or similar:
https://www.banggood.com/Gaoneng-GNB-11_1V-450mAh-80160C-3S-Lipo-Battery-JSTXT30-Plug-p-1165484.html?p=HD240528697332015103
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-450mah-3s-65c-lipo-e-flite-compatible-blade-180cfx-eflb4503sj30.html
The battery tray fits up to 30 mm wide batteries.

I used an Orange 3 gyro receiver to stabilize mine but a flybarless controller would be much better. ZYX S2, V-Bar mini or similar would be good.

Notes:
Print all parts 100% infill except the main frame and the body.

Main frame:
30% infill.

Body:
0% infill and one perimeter for lowest possible weight. Two perimeters is fine if your printer struggles with quality when printing just one.