Halo CE Beam Emitter Tower (LED)

Update: Changed geometry of ramp and base to be more game accurate.

Standing at 30CM tall, this replica of the Combat Evolved beam emitter (not a natural formation) will make a fine addition to your diorama, shelves or windowsill. A simple build with the ability to add an LED wire / LE wire (2.3mm) and AA battery pack (5V adapters can also be bought. The light isn't dramatically bright, but adds a little detail. This display piece is sturdy, and optimised for printing, requiring only a minimal amount of support material, with none of the supported or steeply overhung areas being aesthetically important / visible.

Needed:
4x M3x10mm countersunk bolts
4x M3 heatset insert (included version where you just screw into plastic, so this is optional)
1x 2.3mm LE LED tube / wire, battery or wired. Alt base is included with channels for wiring. Only around 50cm or less is needed, cuts to size.
Optional, 9x 2x15mm metal pins for alignment. 5 for the towers, 4 for the base. The towers align the base pieces, so not really necessary apart for strength if it's likely to be dropped.

I make no claim to the Halo IP, copyright or trademarks.

Full size fits 300mm build plates. You can absolutely shrink it as much as you like, but you lose the ability to install the light fixture.

You'll want to ensure you get a minimal amount of warping as these are all large, flat parts. Lower cooling when not needed for overhangs, lower print temp, higher plate temp, clean build plate, perfect first layer tuning and adhesion promoter are good starting points for reducing warping. Brim may help, but cleanup may be lengthy and ugly unless you plan to paint.

Optimise your support as it's needed for a small gap on the main emitter tower that will be difficult to remove otherwise. Organic supports may be your best bet, however this means you can't use adaptive layers for the slope on the top surface. I included an alternate version if you'd rather just print an overhang.

If you have elephant foot, you may need to remove that lip from the slots to fit the towers into the body.

The bar that retains the light tube can be a bit delicate, so be careful when removing from the bed, and ideally print it in a material with good layer adhesion and some flex (PLA+, PETG etc).