441 commentaires

Thank you for reaching out. All my writeups always include the assembled height.

The Bugs writeup says: "The assembled Bugs model is 134mm tall."
And the Elmer Writeup says: "The assembled model is 220mm tall."

The Elmer model is:
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/elmer-fudd

Teamwork, Steve

Ok, thanks

Thank you for reaching out. Always better asking than to get frustrated.
did you see the comment in the writeup:
"3 - important The right ear (with insert) is inserted from below the right arm into the body_front. When glued, it should not only be glued at the attachment point but also to the arm to give the arm some support."

Are you inserting it as per the notes?
Teamwork, Steve

Thank you for reaching out. Those characters are for non-commercial use only. No license is available and I do not sell models. I only post them as 'fan art' for other makers to enjoy. Any commercial usage will result in the IP owner taking action.

Sorry.

Teamwork, Steve

Thank you for your help. Right ear finally in place after a bit of right arm resetting.

Terrific! Glad you were able to get through it.
Teamwork, Steve

Ed, Thank you for reaching out. I model in Blender (free download). As I model I think ahead about the splitting and model with the split in mind. Sometimes I model the parts separately and sometimes I split them. It is much easier splitting up a model you make than it is to split an STL file that you simply download.
If you decide to use Blender, I can show you some tricks for general splitting. Here is a short document I put together showing the basics of splitting using the tools of most modeling programs:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hokegzuBYowf-tEb-cmRuLAz8RRjmJcp/view?usp=drive_link
And here is my 'welcome to Blender' message if you decide to use Blender:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hXB_13Vitl1SffzcAQ6oxwNkYsRQM1tK/view?usp=drive_link
Teamwork, Steve

I also wanted to ask if you are planning to create a model of Penelope the pussycat?

Thank you for reaching out. Always better to ask than to simply 'complain' about something!
If you are referring to the ear white part, the roughness is simply due to the layers on a very shallow curve. To smooth it out, use the lowest layer height you can so the stepping effect is reduced.
If you are a real perfectionist, you can print the part vertically, using a brim/raft and supports to hold it in place.

A few makers asked about Penelope, But I do not see me making her. I'm 'old and slow' (75) and each model takes me at least a month. So I try to cover different characters and she is too similar .
Teamwork, Steve

Thank you for reaching out. My Asterix/Obelix model series were just recently taken down due to an IP takedown request from the IP owner. They only took them down on Cults but are still on the other download sites. Some IP owners are more active in taking models down than others. For that reason, I will not be doing any more characters from the series.

FYI-I post my models on Thingiverse, Printables, Makerworld and Makeronline as well.
Teamwork, Steve

Je ne comprends pas vos explications.

Lost in translation. 'IP' is intellectual property. So the owner of the Asterix and Obelix characters did not want the models on this site and requested Cutls to take them down. I still have them on other sites though. But since the owners actively request models to be removed, it does not make sense for me to make any more.

Good to hear from you. No problem helping out. The only issue might be the number of characters (Mighty Dr. Morris) MIGHT be too long for the existing base. If I cannot fit the letters, can I make the base bigger?
You can follow-up via email as well, reddadsteve@outlook.com
Teamwork, Steve

I created the Mightly Mouse from scratch and do not have a font for it. It's way more work than I thought, but I have a suggestion that I can show you via email.
Steve

I have an idea of having his granddaughter draw up what they want then trying one of those photo to stl generators to get the font they want. Then I will just use bambu studio to change whatever else they need. If you have any ideas send me a shout. GcsAzWholesale@icloud.com

That's probably the best. I originally took the logo and converted it to an SVG so I was able to work with it that way. But starting from scratch with an actual font is the best. If you run into issues and want some help, let me know.
Teamwork, Steve

Thank you for reaching out. A multi-material model is not the exact same as simply presenting the parts in their proper positions. Extra work is needed to ensure that the model prints properly (technical reasons). But, I've recently started to convert some of my models to multi-material and will be posting them soon. I have not done Yosemite yet, but he is on the list to do.
Teamwork, Steve

Oh, so I guess it's not your creation? Because I'm thinking if it were, you should have all the parts in the proper position after cutting them from the main body or as you build them next to eachother ensuring a proper fit.

It is my model, but like I said, there are technical reasons between the different types of models. I do not model a onepiece model and then split it up. Each part is models very specifically for the split versions. The AMS/MMU models need to be designed differently.

Ok. That's unusual for me, but hey, it's your method. I always design all the parts in assembled position.

Ha! I haven't heard about the three stooges in ages, but was a big fan of them at the time. I appreciate you reaching out but since each model takes me at least a month, I try to do characters that are popular with more makers.
Boy, this really takes me back in time though.
FYI-I never charge for my time since this is a hobby and I want to simply enjoy it without any undue monetary pressures. I do take on personal projects from time to time though.
Teamwork, Steve

I apologize for the delayed response.
I do not charge for my time since it is strictly a hobby. I try to make models that are requested the most but I do models from time to time that are specifically requested.
Send me a picture, reddadsteve@outlook.com
Teamwork, Steve

Please ALWAYS read my writeup.
"3 - The wall requires color changes as follows:
Start with the basic wall color of your choice
Layer height 4.2 mm is the first change to red
Layer height 4.8 mm is the second change to black."
Teamwork, Steve

Yes I did read your write up but when I go print its all one colour ?

I do not know which machine you are. there are many ways to do this but the most basic way is for machines with one extruder and no multi-material options (like Bambu AMS or Prusa MMU). Tell the slicer to stop at the layer you want the color change and swap filaments at that layer with another color.
If you have multi-material options in your slicer then tell the slicer to change colors (filament slot) at the layer you want the color change.

If you want further help, let me know your printer type, multi-material options and which slicer you use.

Teamwork, Seve

I typically only make the one-piece version when I find someone who will print and paint the model. This way, my post shows a nicely painted one.
For newer models I always keep the right work files to make a onepiece fairly quickly. For older models, it depends on my saved work files.
So, if you want to work with me, send me an email at reddadsteve@outlook.com
Please look at how I posted other one-piece models as well, so you can see how I post them. Good pictures of the print before painting and good painted pictures.
Teamwork, Steve

Have you tied this 'image to keychain' tool?
https://makerworld.com/en/makerlab/imageToKeychain?from=makerlab

Let me know if that helps.
Teamwork, Steve

Here is my standard response to that question:
"Thank you for reaching out. This is strictly a hobby, so no Patreon.
Keep in mind that most of the models are based on IP's of large corporations and they are protective of their IP's. Personally I do not mind if you sell them, providing they are not listed on any website or social media boards. Selling them one-on-one for time and materials is fine. It's the advertising angle that needs to be discouraged."
Hope that makes sense.
Teamwork,
Steve

When I first created the model, supports were not nearly as good as they are today, so I typically split parts for ease of printing. But that created a seam as you noticed.

A few makers asked for a one piece shirt, so I made it:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/19PrpEsyZDD6LBmMU8qsx7CXQfby_nbYP/view?usp=drive_link

Teamwork, Steve

Wow! Thanks! I'll try it

Just wanted to say it looks perfect now, I really like the design. If I may offer one last suggestion, just make the eyebrows have a deeper recess, so you could just do it by inserting it without using glue, reducing the chance of smudging from accidental touches.

HA! A common issue for discussion, dents for small parts. It's a multi-faceted decision when modeling. Ease of print vs easy of assembly. I straddle both and lean on the ease of print side many times. A bigger dent might mean difficult supports if the part is not oriented properly.

But overall, I rarely go back to models already posted and take input for future models. It's a hobby and I like to keep moving forward.
Thank you for the input.

Teamwork, Steve

Thank you for reaching out with those kind words.
I use Blender, free download, for all my modeling. Blender is a huge program that does so much, but I only use a very small part of it. Let me know if you want any guidance.
Teamwork, Steve

Jonas, Thank you for reaching out (I see that your message is a cut/paste that you are sending to other makers as well)
Personally, my health is more important to me than trying to chase down cheaters. Those types of people are hard enough to deal with as is, but the process does not help. I have a friend that tried to report a model on Ebay and they took down his own original model instead of the stolen one. Numerous attempts to correct this just made it worse.

Best of luck in trying to change the course of this activity.

Teamwork, Steve

Thank you, and a Happy and Healthy holiday season to you.
BTW, I've been quite negligent in keeping up with Good people like you that I've met along the way. Just getting old!
Teamwork, Steve

Thank you for reaching out. I tend to do only one version of each character. Also, a good friend has already done a very nice Daffy as a split model. I know it's on Thingiverse, not sure where else.
Teamwork, Steve

You did not mention which model!
Sometimes I post one-piece models and they would be titled "model - Onepiece'
I also post multimaterial models which can be printed in onepiece, titled "model - MMU"
Teamwork, Steve

sorry it was the Cheshire cat

Thank you for reaching out. I make models most requested by the makers, so, I will put him on the list and see if I get any other requests.

Teamwork, Steve