'ThunderStrike V2' Airsoft Reutilizable Activada por Impacto Granada de 8 tiros con anilla (Soviética/Rusa F-1 Pull-Twist Fuze Variant)

This is the ThunderStrike V2 (Soviet/Russian F-1 Pull-Twist Fuze Variant), the successor to the original ThunderStrike Airsoft Grenade. It is impact-activated, meaning that it detonates upon impact on almost any surface (with enough force). Powered by a re-usable and unique "rotating catch" system and a cut-down airsoft sniper spring, it packs enough power to set off the 8-shot ring caps at the base, creating a loud bang. This system improves upon the original ThunderStrike, making it more reliable, easier to print, easier to assemble, and much more compact. This variant also features our Pull-Twist Fuze instead of the standard spoon, giving rapid deployment and less hassle/no parts to lose. Also features our Quick-Change Detonator, which allows you to easily switch out spent 8-shot ring caps by simply unscrewing the bottom.

Additional Hardware Needed:

1x M4x50mm Bolt
1x Cut-down sniper spring (VSR-10, L96, etc.) 30mm in length.
Exact dimensions of the spring are 1.3x10x30mm. You can also use generic 1.2x10x30mm compression springs, which are cheaper. 1.3x10x30mm generic springs also work for more power.
2x M2x10mm bolts (these are for the top cap, so they are not required if not using the cap)
Sandpaper (recommended)
Adhesive (recommended)

Assembly instructions/guide:

Step 1: Remove all supports and clean up the parts, just like for any other print. Slightly sanding some parts such as the main threads is recommended.

Step 2: Thread the M4x50mm bolt through the Rotating Catch, all the way to the end. The bolt will create a thread in the plastic itself. Make sure it stays as centered as possible when screwing it in. We would advise adding adhesive (we advise against threadlocker) to the end of the bolt where it screws onto the Rotating Catch to lock it in place, since it will be rotating and should not be loose.

Step 3: Drop the bolt with the rotating catch into the opening of the Mechanism Body. Place the cut-down sniper spring (or generic spring) into the bottom slot of the Mechanism Body. While holding everything in place, screw on the Detonator Base to the bolt. It should once again create the threads for a tight fit. Tighten it until the bottom of the bolt is flush with the bottom of the Detonator Base. If it's too loose, use adhesive.

Step 4: Screw the two M2x10mm bolts through the Top Cap and into the holes on the top of the Fuze Body.

To reset the mechanism: Pull the wheel up then rotate counter-clockwise (the arrows should point to 'F'). Cock the mechanism by pushing the Detonator Base from the bottom up all the way and rotating counter-clockwise until the rotating catch hits the walls behind the two stationary ledges (the ledges that it holds on to), or just until it stops rotating. After cocking the mechanism, simply rotate the wheel back the other direction and push it down all the way (so that the arrows point to 'S'). To load caps, simply place them onto the Ring-Cap Detonator, and make sure they sit securely. Then, screw on the Detonator loaded with caps to the Detonator Base on the Fuze.

To use the grenade: Screw the primed and safe mechanism onto the outer body. When ready to use, pull the wheel up and rotate counter-clockwise to set it into 'fire' mode, and throw with decent force. It will detonate on practically any surface if thrown with enough energy. On hard surfaces like concrete and compact/dry dirt it will almost always go off (though we don't recommend throwing on hard surfaces). Medium-hardness surfaces like moist dirt or gravel will also most likely detonate it. Soft surfaces such as wet dirt, mud, thick grass, and loose leaves might give some issues, but if thrown with enough force it should still go off. Plus, throwing it hard is much more safe than practically any other grenade, since the ThunderStrike V2 F-1 weighs only 80-90 grams.

PETG or PLA+ is recommended. Here is the exact filament we use (affiliate): https://amzn.to/424ouOW
Sliced with Bambu Studio/Orca Slicer, so some settings may need adjusting for Cura. Everything 0.16mm layer height, but 0.2mm works as well.

Outer Body: Print upright. 5 walls. 20% infill (Gyroid is recommended to help support the thread overhangs). Minimum of 9 top layers and 5 bottom layers. Enable normal supports with a 5 degree threshold angle and snug style (supports are not needed in the threads). Fuzzy skin is recommended but not necessary.

Detonator Base: Print with threads facing up. 4 walls. 80%infill. Enable supports with a 5 degree threshold angle (should be on the bottom in the slot).

Main Fuze Body: Print upright. 4 walls. 70% Cubic Infill. Minimum 10 top layers. Enable supports with a 10 degree threshold angle and 'snug' style. You want to have supports right above the threads (but not in them) and also not in the letters.

Rotating Catch: Print upright on the bottom face. 4 walls. At least 80% Cubic Infill. No supports.

Twist Wheel: Print upright. 4 walls, 50% infill. Enable supports with a 5 degree threshold angle and snug style.

Top Cap: Print with the top part facing up (you could do it upside-down to avoid supports, but it will have the pattern/texture of your build plate on top). 4 walls. 60% infill. Enable supports with a 5 degree threshold angle and snug style. You want the supports all on the inside (unless printing upside-down). It should be easy to remove with something like a flathead screwdriver.

Ring-Cap Quick-Change Detonator: Print flat on the bottom, with prongs facing up. 4 walls. At least 80% Infill. Enable supports to be inside the bottom (the actual threads do not need support).