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Hi, the STL file is definitely available, please try downloading it again.

Hello! Thank you for reaching out! What are you interested in?

Hello, thank you for reaching out, I have a huge respect for your work.

Regarding your request, however (and please don't get me wrong, I do not mean any disrespect, as I have been in your shoes before, so I speak from experience) I do have to clarify that inspiration does not equal to violation of copyright.

I would be more than honored if I could have a licensing agreement for your trademark and the copyrighted elements (like ship names and actual artwork), however, I do not think that an expected $2 to $4 yearly income would justify spending your lawyers time. (Again, I do not want to sound cynical, this is also based on my own experience standing on the licensor's side).

Please email me at design@adastragames.com -- I may have a deal you like.

It's all fun and games until a lawyer gets involved, and I'm interested in finding a win-win solution for this.

Thank you, I will email you.

Hi! Thanks for your message. Currently I'm working on an other wargaming project, but I will add the visor cap to my Lego to-do list.

Oke im waiting.thx

Hi Michael,
Sure I'll make the 3/4 inch version and can also set up a package. I'll check my game shelf for something with 3/4" counters to see if I can do some testing.
Cheers,
CS

Great. Let me know here when it is done.

Thanks,
Michael

Hi Michael,

I did some measurements and created the 3/4 inch design. It comes in batches of 40 pieces, as that fits most printers comfortably.

I also created a bundle, you can find it here: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/counter-holder-bundle-for-magnetizing-1-2-9-16-and-3-4-inch-counters - No pressure, though!

If you decide to go for it, feel free to let me know if you need any changes, as there might be slight differences between different manufacturers' counter sizes.

Cheers,
CS

Thanks, I got the files and will try to print a set on the weekend so that I can check them with my counters. For the testing the magnets, this will take a bit. I ordered them in China. They'll arrive mid- August. I'll post my results here.

Great, I'm curious to hear how it goes!

Hi,

My tests today went out perfectly. The holders came out nice and the counters fit perfectly. I will have to wait until the magnets areive to test them as well. I'll let you know.

Thanks,
Michael

Hi Michael,
Thanks for the feedback! Do let me know if any adjustments are needed for the magnets.
-CS

Hey, sorry for the late reply. I'm still working on the artillery rules, specifically on how abstract they should be. I want something similar but a bit less abstract than Battalion Combat Series. Right now I'm playing GMT's Next War series to see how well their system works. Sam Moustafa's approach in Rommel works fine from a gameplay perspective but I feel like it's lacking in realism. I also tested OCS a lot recently, but not planning to go that direction.

Oh shi, nevermind the question about dimensions. 3 mm cube is self-explaanatory :D

Hi! I use cubes but stacking three flat ones on top of each other could also work. Maybe even two could do the trick if you create a gap between them - filling the gap with cardboard or green stuff might work. To be honest I did have some alternative ideas back then but cubes were just too convenient for me.

As for attaching them: I have ordered my magnets in 4 separate batches and it turns out "3mm" magnets are not always 3.0000000mmm. Two batches worked perfectly, I just had to push them in. One batch was a tiny bit smaller and I had to use superglue to fix them in place. One was a bit bigger and I had to force them into the slots, even breaking some of the holders.

I added one of my old ideas for a standing holder and set it up for your 3x3x1 mm magnets.

I see I can buy 3 mm cube magnets locally, so no issues with that at all. I just had to think a bit more before I asked you that question :D

Thanks for the input on how you attach magnets to your holders!

Btw, does your design allow you to flip holders from one side to another or are you forced to flip the counter itself whenever you need to do a 'step loss'? I'm thinking about the polarization of magnets and I suppose that you can if you ensure that one pole of the magnet will be at the top of it and the other one at the bottom, so if you flip the holder to the other side, the location of magnet's poles will be preserved. If we look at your photos with your holders on the map, I presume that flipping magnets is doable. What do you think, have you tested that? I know this is a stupid question, but I'm really terrible at physics and I don't have any magnets at my disposal right now to check the theory :)

Flipping the whole holder is definitely possible. However, it depends on the game system a bit. For games where you typically have 1 counter per hex it works great (like BCS). Games where you often have large stacks might force you to flip the counter instead of only one counter from the stack changes state. I hope it makes sense, it would be much easier to explain with a video.

*if

Btw, what will you use as the 'host' surface (under the map)?

Sorry for the late reply, I have been taking part in the playtesting of the upcoming OCS game which is pretty time intensive. That said, the development is progressing, I will let you know when we are approaching beta.

Thank you for the kind words.
Regarding the rules: my main objectives are 1) modeling the challenges of combined arms operations (e.g. tanks becoming separated from supporting infantry) and 2) simulating fog of war and information asymmetry without overly complicating the system.
As for the miniatures: right now my focus is on late war formations (think Battle of the Bulge on the Western front and Konrad + Spring Awakening in the East).

hello! which country are you interested in?

united state

i made the US M1 helmet. it's not modern, it was in use during WW2, Korea and Vietnam (until the 1980's)