Rato impresso em 3D baseado no Logitech G9X

You might want to be careful opening the "postimg" links. On a mobile device it contains weird inappropriate ads, idk why.

Please don't redistribute this.
Made to fit the Logitech G502 hero pcb.

I regret putting this online mostly because someone will turn around and start selling this themselves so PLEASE report them, do the right thing please.

I don't condone anyone selling this.
I made this. Spent like 5 years on it. Please tell me if something doesn't make sense. I use the wired version all the time just the dpi buttons are gone. Got tired of it.

I might have to make another one to get caught up on what I did, I forget.

Enjoy. Also, please tell me what I could improve or touch up on.

1. Print everything out. (Gotta come back to this with Bambu Studio profiles. (I use the a1 mini.)

2. Take the metal bar out of the original g9x, by using some heat and carefully pull it out (not with your hands, use a tool.)

3. https://www.amazon.com/CKAuto-Adhesive-Weights-EasyPeel-Motorcycles/dp/B085L74KS4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY
   Put car weight inside of bottom housing location (7g).

4. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BRTKS564 (female to male.)
   take off the plastic shroud (with a blade, to pull it off), and bend the metal tip like so: https://postimg.cc/QKmNWYS6
   I would assume you can solder it. I think I wrapped around the metal part of the wires below with kapton tape (so it won't short.)

5. Take the metal bar from the g9x and repurpose it in the 3d printed part named: "WGclipbp10 " as shown here: https://postimg.cc/D85mW0Mw *Edited 4/15/26

6. Buy these magnets for the scroll wheel (I don't remember why, I think to hold the metal bar in place?): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0936M3WPK?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1 I don't even remember if those were it. :( sorry.

7. Add blu tack like so: https://postimg.cc/Q9xSgHqM
   on both sides.
   and some kapton tape so it won't short each side when they come in contact.

8. Buy these tacks and use flush cutters to remove the plastic: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D2WT5SQ7?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2 (I don't know if any tacks would work.)
   You can erode the tip on a brick if you don't want to get poked.
   Stick it in the mouse wheel part.

9. Use a soldering iron with this tip: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807774637567.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.46.1d471802RSvNoE&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa for soldering these things in: M2 M2.5 M3 M4 M5 M6 Brass Hot Melt Insert Knurled Nut Thread Heat Molding Double Twill Injection Embedment Nut For 3D Printer

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803396040989.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.6f4e180237SmSv&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

I don't remember the screw length but I did write down everything I did as I went, I'm sure.. I just don't remember where (there was 3 places (google notes, samsung notes, notepad++)

I'll update this as I remember.

Buy the m2 ones.

1. I remember that you have to desolder these switches: https://postimg.cc/y3TVMpZP

2. I will finish this when I get the chance, I forget. :(

3/22/26: To be honest, I'll probably have to make another. So, I'll have to order another.
Edit 3/22/26: I bought one earlier. Says it will be* delivered Mar 25th - Mar 28th.

I'll start writing instructions on the 29th when I wake up. I don't have another metal bar to use so I guess mine won't have one.

4/3/26: Ok, I'll get on this at some point. All the preparation I got to do, :(.