Ultimate Creality K1 / K1C / K1SE / K1 Max D3D Linear X Rail Upgrade (sem necessidade de raiz e totalmente compatível com CFS)

Hey man, thanks for the interest.
Answers as follows:
1. Not sure to be honest, if the DXC extruder uses the same mounts as the original (which I’m guessing it does) I would say yes but I can’t be 100% sure as I don’t have one.
2. Right angle (I updated the model at another customers request for this but have just received my own this week)
3. I made my own cartographer mount which is in the download list. It’s been modelled to optimise the position of the Eddie coils. I’m happy to make tweaks to it with feedback if needed.
4. Yes I believe so. It uses the same footprint as the original hotends.

Unless you can source a supplier willing to do it for you on Aliexpress, then yes

What material are you using? What slicer are you using? Have your calibrated your extrusion flow and cooling correctly?

Im using overture ASA and orca. Yes i have calibrated correcly in with orca calibration

Never mind i found if i use a top Z distance of 0.1mm and pause the print at the top of the support and colour the top of the support with black sharpe it does not stick at all

Hi, you need 6mm.
The dimension you are referring to is for the belt width as it says in the part page on the Aliexpress listing.

No problems Thank you

Is there a linear Y mod that goes with this?

No

Not required to eliminate VFA and only adds additional cost.

Awesome better for my pocket

Hi, glad it working well for you, yes, the belts through the 20T idlers aren’t parallel as they have some pretension in them to prevent slippage.
Thanks

Please let me know what options you are talking about and I can look at some models

https://www.printables.com/model/833769-the-skeletor-collection-a-creality-k1k1-maxk1c-coo

Yes, it will work with these mods

Hi! I have a similar question, but with the following cover model, if you can point me the compatibility @mils24: https://www.printables.com/model/1073746-k1-5015-cooler-upgrade-for-stock-gantry

I'll do the upgrade this december, finally, and am looking for a compatible 5015 fan cover option that fits with it.

Thank you in advance again!

Hi Krahembuhl, yes the upgrade will work with this 5015 hotted blower MOD. Please note however you may loose build volume due to that MOD and not the linear rail upgrade.

Whilst printing via SLS hasn’t been tried I don’t see why not. SLS printing is self supporting and therefore holes shouldn’t be a problem. (I’m not sure what hole you are talking about)

He didn't answer this question for me as well, but I did the mod anyways. Zv shaper for X with recommended over 8k accel, MZV for Y with 6.5k accel. (ZV on Y axis show 10-12k but after upgrade I get two spikes on Y so ZV is no go) . After changing motor mounts and tensioners I get better graph and over 8k accel for both axis, X still ZV and Y still MZV.
This is why I will upgrade further to wider belts and linear rails for the Y axis.

Okay, I counted the holes on the rails in your drawings, and the rails you used should have a hole spacing of 20mm. Correct? Then the measurement from the edge to the first hole would be the same for the 320mm rails. Can you confirm that the linked 320mm rails fit?

Yes, hole spacing is 20mm and the difference between the K1 MAX and K1/K1C is 80mm therefore the difference from end of rail to first hole is the same between K1 MAX and K1/K1C. I have customers that have installed the upgrade on MAX and Normal. The design is ok for both.

A little off the top 3 fins needs to be removed to make way for the carbon tube. Would be easily marked out and done during reassembly.
However for the sake of a £3 (gbp) I would buy a spare from Aliexpress.

To replace the heatsink might be best. What about the resonance graphs?

To replace the heatsink might be best. What about the resonance graphs?

How sad that you took the time to comment before you have read and understood the mod

To defend the designer some more on this - Mils24 that is - a lot of effort has been put into what you purchase as part of this listing, and any profits are deserved.
Does no-one other than the Wright brothers deserve to profit from an aircraft?....
I am a customer (with no affiliation) and continue to use on a daily basis many months later without looking back.

Thanks for your kind words and support. Also glad to hear you’re happy with your upgrade. Happy printing.

No you can’t use MGN12 it’s been specifically designed with MGN9 in mind.

Also CFS support is already there, there is a small cutout required on the x carriage for the cutting leaver but this can be very easily done.
I’m having a guy check one other point at my request when he assembles but has already test fitted and has confirmed it works.

Once he’s fully fitted and calibrated I will update to add the cutout mentioned above and update the page.

There are printed parts with heat inserts that you slide inside the carbon tube to pick up the screws.

My mod maintains the same movement and build volume as stock machine.
Print start script is uneffected as nozzle can still reach the original nozzle wipe zone which I don’t believe BCJ can do.

I get that the build volume remains the same and I was not talking about the wipe area. The K1 CFS upgrade has an extruder that has a lever to cut the filament. The lever is pressed when the toolhead moves to the back left corner which presses the lever. I don’t see where in your toolhead carriage allows the lever to move, which is similar to the BJC carriage. If your carriage has the same issue as the BJC carriage, then you cannot use the CFS since the cutter will not function

The new extruder with the CFS upgrade has a leaver that sticks out past the end of the extruder stepper to catch the cutting block.
As my mod allows for full travel as per stock it allows the tool head to move fully rear to reach the cutter block.
The BCJ mod I believe reduces your Y build volume as the liner rail used clashes with the stepper motors when it is at MAX -Y.
Also the linear rail mounting block on the MGN12 rails are a lot larger than the MGN9 block. The BCJ X carriage rear edge of the mounting block sits pretty flush with the rear edge of the extruder (from what I can see in videos) where as mine doesn’t extend that far due to the smaller mount block.
I’ve taken your concerns onboard though and I will reach out to someone with a CFS for some dimensions of the cutting block to double check it all.
Thanks

Unfortunately I have to agree that the current x-carriage is not compatible with the CFS extruder.
It's not about the range of motion of the gantry itself, it's the pushlever that can't be pushed in all the way because of interference with the x-carriage itself. It should be an easy fix as it's only 1-2mm of clearance.
I can send some pictures if you'd like. I have the cfs upgrade kit so I could testfit everything if you'd like. I'm just waiting for my linear rails to arrive somewhere this week.

Hi Spekkie, I’ve just managed to get a model of the CFS components but I need to spend some time getting them into my design models for checking. Any info you have that can help, esp if you have the CFS kit in hand is of course very welcome, drop me a message please and we’ll work out the best way to discuss this.
Thank you

Sure, I'd love to help out!
I did took a knife to my current printed x-carriage and cut away a small corner. That was all that was needed to make room for the cutter lever. Once I get home I'll take some measurements.
One thing I'm still uncertain of is if the cutterblock will interfere with the linear rail, but I'll be able to verify that once I receive my linear rail later this week...
The last thing is that I don't know what the best way would be to share pictures/files as I can't find any way to share them through cults3D and I couldn't find a private message option here either.

If you have FB, search for ‘D3D linear rail’ and you’ll find my post on there about this listing. You can get me from there

I've send you a PM through FB

Hello Mills, i have this mod working with CFS but i just noticed i printed (and installed the "X Carriage" not the "K1 X Carriage CFS" it seems to be working ok, i see the wire holding clip is missing in the CFS version, but i dont see any other differences. Is there something i am missing that wold make it worth it to print the correct CFS one and rebuild my extruder head?

There is a small cutout on the back rear left corner (if looking down from the top while standing at the front of your printer)
This is to provide clearance to the cutting block during the cutting stage of the print.
You could file the original down in that area if you have already printed and built the non CFS version.

Last time I checked "X Carriage.stl" also has the cutout for the cutting block. The only difference is indeed the wire clip.

Apologies, I was looking at this again last night as I was printing the cartographer version for myself. Yes you are right, the cutouts for the CFS block and cutting lever are universal. The only difference is the cable management clip has been removed on the CFS version as per user feedback.

Sorry for the confusion, the cutout mod and the removal of the clip happened in quick succession so easy confusion as to which had which.

There is a guide in the downloads specifically for the K1 which has all the correct dimensions

The parts listed work perfect with stock belts

No need to change

I know they do and I have it working well, but let me re-phrase it as my comment wasn't clear.
Considering the design of the parts do you think they could be changed to accommodate hardware for 7.7mm belts?

Ah ok, I understand now.
Hmmm… technically yes but not sure I would recommend.
Unless your have a perfectly flat core XY system the larger belts may bind on the flanged GT2 pulleys and flanged bearings which may cause some print issues.
I know the stock pulley mounts connected to the steppers do have a little play in them and if you watch your belt path closely as it moves there is a little vertical travel in them.
If you can eliminate that vertical travel and have a very flat motion system you should be ok
You may need to add extra washers between the flanged bearings in the XY Blocks to allow for the wider belt but that should be ok.

The belt path with this MOD is exactly the same as stock. I have no issues with X & Y dimensional accuracy and my test prints using the inbuilt orca cube on price slicer came out at 30.01 x 30.01 in X & Y.

As for the infill not touching the side, again I’ve no issue with this.

Are you sure you have your filament calibrated correctly?

Where do you currently mount it? Using the mount holes for the lidar camera?

If so then no. The lidar holes were removed.

I did make a version for the cartographer probe which adds mount holes on the side back in again but it will need a custom mount for the microprobe.

Do you have modelling capability? If so use the cartographer x carriage and you should be able to make a bracket to suit.

If not, if I can find a model of the microprobe I could maybe make one for you.

My current mount version does indeed uses the mounting holes for the lidar...
I do have some moddeling skills so I'll print cartographer x carriage and go from there.
Thanks a lot for your response!

You need to add two more heat inserts for the microswiss hotends.
It’s quite easy to drill the holes and add them if you have already printed the parts. One of the others guys has already done this.

I will update the product page and make a microswiss version asap.

Thanks. I ordered a Unicorn hotend though, but I will see if I will change back to Flowtech some day.

After thinking about this for a moment, I will probably just drill some holes for M1.7x3x2.5 inserts and attach the Flowtech that way. Let's pray the Aliexpress shipping for the inserts do not take a long time, since I am now unable to print with my K1 for a while :D

You could use the unicorn for now if you have the parts printed, and I’ll update to add a flowtech version soon.
To swap the x carriage is pretty easy cause you don’t need to strip the machine.

I’ve got an email with another comment from you but I can’t seem to find it on this thread.

The microswiss hotend uses M2 fixings so you will need M2 heat inserts. M2 heat inserts use a 3.2mm hole.

When I measured one of the titanium retaining screws, it was 1.7mm diameter when measured on top of the screws thread. I will drill the holes myself, already made a jig for it and ordered the inserts. I will keep you updated.

Good luck dude and sorry for the additional hassle and delay to getting your printer going again.
It should be easy enough done as another user has done it and it worked well.
I will continue to make the flowtech x carriage version for any future users.
Anything else you need, give me a shout.
Thanks

No problem, It's my fault since I am using a modified setup and did not check for the mounting holes before I made the parts. I have access to other printers so this is only a minor inconvenience. Like I said I will keep you updated and share all my findings so you can add a variant for this mounting method. Thanks for all your work, the build seems very nice and well thought.

Hi! I managed to get the printer working again. You were correct, the Microswiss mounting screws are M2. Could you add a version of the carriage so it has holes for them? I tried to drill them but they came out inaccurate, and would like to print the carriage again with the holes modeled. My current inserts are slipping, I would recommend using 4mm OD, 3mm long M2 inserts. Otherwise your mod is working very nicely.

Hey, Ive have just finished modelling and have updated the listing with new X Carriage models with the additional holes for the M2 heat inserts. Build guides have been updated too. You should receive an email about the update.
Hopefully your reprint and 2nd attempt is successful.

Thank you. Printing it now.

Hey Bionik, did the new X Careiage work for you?

Yes, it has been working fine now. The inserts are very thin so you need to be little more careful when installing and tightening them, but I managed to install them. Thanks again!

No problem, glad you got sorted. Happy printing!

I honestly don’t know sorry. I don’t have the BCJ files to compare.
I’ve had a look at some YouTube videos and it looks like it might.
I would say that if the front edge of the mount is no higher than the stock mounts (approx 5mm height on top of motor) you may be ok but really hard to tell from what I’ve seen.
I know my design has very very little clearance between the carbon tube support parts and motors.
Also with the linear fitted and push right to the back of the build plate the carbon tube overlaps the motors by amount 10mm.
I hope that makes sense and helps.
Sorry I can’t be more specific without actually having the BCJ parts.

No worries, thanks for answering. I’ll measure everything and see how I get on. It would just be nice to use the LDO motos that I bought for the upgrade.

But surely you could use the LDO motors with the stock Creality mounts? No?

If you need anything else, please just ask and I’ll help as best as I can

So just an update, I can't use the stock motor mounts as Creality, in the never ending wisdom, have superglued them to the motors. I also wanted to use the Bootycall Jones design as the belt tensioners are far better than stock.

So far It seems to be working perfectly.

My only issue was with the carbon box section, the walls are too thick so I can't fit the printed parts inside. I originally ordered from a different source as the one you linked wasn't in stock. It's back in stock so I ordered the carbon box you linked. Hopefully it will work with the printed parts.

YurtleAhern are you using this mod with the BCJ motor mounts and belt tensioners?

Yes but alu is heavier and less stiff than carbon therefore not as good.
Also remember that alu (especially thin wall alu) will be prone to heat distortion therefore it may warp if you have high bed temp and long print.
Carbon is far less prone to temp distortion.

Apologies, I’m cannot comment. The stock design has a level of preload in it hence sticking with a preloaded linear rail. I would assume that you may end up with some resonance and VFA issues without a preloaded rail.

No, it’s not possible to maintain the stock print area with a MGN12H rail hence why I chose to use the MGN9H.
There are other options available online that utilise a MGN12H rail but come at the cost of slight loss in build volume and modifications to the start print code.

Yes, my design has the EXACT same build volume and movement range as the stock machine. Therefore it’s fully compatible with the CFS upgrade and will need no modification to the new CFS firmware.

I’m afraid currently there is not. I have been making mounts as per customer requests but my Mac is no long supported by Fusion360 as of the 31st March.
I will be buying a new Mac v.soon and will be able to make one then provided I can fine details and dims of the BTTEddie somewhere to design around.

If you want to do the mod in prep for it use the Cartographer X carriage as the pick up points will be the same. It will just be the BTTEddie mount that will change.

Got it! Thanks
Also just want to 100% check that there are no changes to the stepper motor mounts?

Nope, no change to the stepper mounts :)

Just an update! Printed out of PA CF, carbon tube cut and inserts inserted all installed in to the printer now and works a charm! The x-axis is now super smooth and I no longer have some weird noise when the print head moves to certain parts of the build plate. Was surprising how much the original x-axis was binding when the 2 rods aren't perfectly aligned.

Build/BOM not difficult. Highly recommend!

I checked last night and my CAD package seems to still be working on my Mac therefore I should be able to get a BTT Eddie mount made in the coming days.
Watch this space….

Do you still need a BTT Eddie mount or have you already got a solution?

did you end up making a btt eddy compatible mount? I'd be interested

Hi Lukazade, apologies, life got in the way and unfortunately my Mac is currently lost in the post on its way back from getting repaired. I’m not sure when I’ll get it but I will start working on the BTT Eddie mount when I do.
I was intending to make this as I was intending to buy an Eddie for myself but I opted for the Cartographer instead. Sorry

Once I have it done I’ll drop you a message.

I've done a bit more research and it looks like your full linear rail mod carriage will work with my eddy mount (it mounts in place of the lidar). I've just purchased it today. Thanks for the reply, I'll let you know if it doesnt work out when I get around to doing the mod

Hey man, I think you maybe have the projects mixed up. I don’t have a full linear rail kit and my mod doesn’t maintain the standard lidar camera mount.
Also you didn’t purchase mine yesterday

Good luck with your mod though. Happy printing.

This is a hard one to answer as not everyone needs everything.
Plus you can make more expensive or cheaper depending on what linear rail you choose to use.

Using all links provided in guide your looking around £60-65 GBP / 71-77 EUR / 77-84 USD

Also depending what filament you choose to print parts in will also effect total BOM cost.

Pure ABS is a LOT cheaper than ABS-CF or ASA-CF for example

That's fair enough, thanks. Just to nail it down a bit before I proceed then, could you advise what the linear rail options would cost from your recommended source, for a k1c length, for example?
Thanks again!

For K1/K1C/K1SE you need a 320mm linear rail.

HIWIN (imo the best option) is 43 GBP / 51 EUR / 55 USD

Thanks for the info. I purchased your files yesterday. I'm looking into ordering components etc - but firstly, I've got to say there's an impressive amount of effort you've put into preparing your files and regardless of how well things go, and I've no doubt it will go well, I can say that my purchase is excellent value. Thanks!

Thank you so much for the kind feedback. Good luck with your build! I don’t think you will be disappointed!

PS: what is the recommended wall thickness for the carbon tube also, please (i'm trying to see if it will be possible to source the necessary components on my country) Tks!

Hi Krahembuhl, yes, if you buy the replacement heatsink as per the guide you can keep the rest of your hotend components. Just make sure you get a heatsink as shown in the photos that suits the unicorn hotend.

As for wall thickness of the carbon tube, 1mm minimum is suitable.

The guide uses a 10x10x8mm (outside x outside x inside)

TY, bought it today, will start buying the hardware. If I encounter any bumps, can I contact you somehow? Thank you!

Hi, thank you for the support.
Just send me a message on here and I’ll pick it up quick.
Good luck with the build.

Hi Krahembul, i just completed the upgrade on my K1C and it is working well enough, however i had an issue with the hotend fan (not the part fan) where if i tightened the screws down all the way the fan gets stuck and wont run. I disasembled and re-assembled many times today :-D to figure out the problem as i was getting a code 0109 when trying to print, turns out the fan was stuck. It runs ok if i leave the screws loose but i dont believe that will work long term because i assume the accelerometers for the shaper are on that board so having it loose cant be great. Did you have any success with this mod? did you have this problem? what i don't know is if i overcooked the heated inserts and need a spacer or if i need a different heatsink than the straight finned one i just bought.

There is a small approx 2mm spacer supplied with the official creality unicorn nozzle upgrade kit that is fitted to the lower left fan mounting screw between the heatsink and the fan.

If you bought a heatsink on its own you may be missing this

Hi Hazelbrand! I didnt upgrade yet, was gathering the BOM + some parts for the CFS and a part fan (5015) upgrade, so I could disassemble all at once. Will let you know later what came of it, but will be aware of this issue you stated and the suggested solution from mils

6mm version

Could be F623ZZ instead of the Toothed Pulleys 20T?

Yes, if you wish.

Is the inside of the Carbon tube you use a round or Square thought id better double check before ordering one to get parts ready to go? Amazing looking work can't wait to get the files printing just gotta pick a colour Cheers

It’s an 10x10x8mm square carbon tube

(10mm square with 1mm wall thickness)

Good luck with the build 👍🏻