究極のフィジェット・スネーク

もし、自分のプリンターの性能を友達に自慢したいなら、このヘビほど効果的なものはないでしょう！その見た目や動きは、あまりにもリアルで、思わず驚いてしまうほどです。 プラスチック製のヘビにこれほどの手間をかけるほど馬鹿な人は、この地球上に他にいないと思います。これはまさに「究極」の逸品なのです！

• 各セグメントのデザインは、水平方向の柔軟性を保ちつつ、上下への曲がりを制限しながら、可能な限り密に配置できるよう繰り返し改良されました。その結果、手に持ったとき、落ち着きのないヘビが前後にくねくねと動く様子を再現した、あの昔ながらの木製ヘビのおもちゃとよく似た動きをする製品が完成しました。

  • 頭部は、持ち方の角度を変えるだけで顎が開閉するように設計されています。 このプリントされたおもちゃは、人によっては少し不気味に感じるような動きをさせることも可能です。 以下に短いデモ動画があります 動くヘビ

• ヘビの頭を持つ角度に応じて、舌を伸ばすように設定するオプションもあります。 これがどのように機能するかを示した動画はこちらです。 舌を伸ばすオプションのデモ動画

*スライサーの設定がモデルファイルと適切に動作するか確認するため、まずはsnake test-file.stlの内容を印刷してみることをお勧めします。
*（ガラスの目が必要ない）基本的なヘビのモデルはすべて、snake-entire.stlファイルに含まれています。
*ヘビをパーツごとに分けて印刷することも可能です。 基本的なヘビは、snake-head.stl、snake-middle.stl、snake-tail.stl の各ファイルから作成できます。
*6 mm のガラス製の目を挿入したい場合は、head-for-glass-eyes.stl もダウンロードして、標準の頭部と置き換えてください。
*ヘビの長さを自由に調整したい場合は、「snake-middle.stl」を「snake-mid-and-extend.stl」に置き換えてください。これにより、「snake-middle.stl」の内容が分割され、その間に延長パーツを挿入できるようになります。 ファイル「snake-extender.stl」には、延長パーツのみが含まれています。

印刷や組み立ての過程、あるいは製品自体に何らかの不満がある場合は、何が問題だったかをお知らせください。 お客様が心から満足いただけない場合は、購入代金を返金いたします。

ご興味のある方へ、スネークの新しいバージョンもご用意しています：
ファイルA1からEを使用すると、各セグメントをさらに密に配置したスネークを作成でき、手に持った際に本物のヘビのように自立しやすくなります。 尾の部分をもう少し丈夫にするために、いくつかの変更が加えられました。より長いヘビを作りたい場合は、パーツ「B 首」と「2nd part body」の間にファイル「C 1st part body」を挿入してください。 実際、ファイルCを繰り返し印刷することで、お好みの長さのヘビを組み立てることができます！
オリジナル版では、セグメントが融合してしまうような問題が発生しにくくなっています。（このような問題を回避するためのスライサー設定の調整に関する提案を以下に示します。）

The model is meant to be printed with an FDM 3D printer using PLA or some other standard filament. Your prints should fit comfortably on a surface that is 225 mm by 225 mm. These models can be printed in place without any support. (Supports will brick the models.)

The printed toy is not suitable for use by small children.

NOTE: In order to make the head print out more reliably, there is a thin strip connecting the jaw to the rest of the head that should be removed in order to free up the jaw. They are easy to spot as thin rectangular strips that connect the lower and upper jaw. If you forget and close the mouth they will easily break apart, but the fragments can impart the jaw movement. This link shows where the tabs are
https://vimeo.com/manage/videos/1124512960
I also tend to trim some of the areas around the throat to make the snake profile a bit cleaner when its mouth is closed.

Obviously it is critical to get the first layer down right. I have not needed to adjust the settings when using the Creality slicer and an Ender 3 V3. However, you might need to adjust your slicer settings so that the segments do not spread out so as to touch one another when printed. You may want to experiment first with a smaller test file that is provided.
It is usually the first layer that causes segments to stick together. This should be fixable if you adjust the "horizontal expansion" to increase/decrease the distance between surfaces, widen/close holes, etc . I have also seen/heard this referred to as "elephant's foot" .
For example, my Creality slicer allows one to choose "edit" and then under "shell" there are listed settings that include "horizontal expansion". One can change the setting number from 0 to some appropriate NEGATIVE number of millimeters to increase the distance between the shell surfaces
I was also told that using OrcaSlicer, that one can adjust "X-Y holes compensation", to fix the problem.

You may want to "break in" the head in your model to get the jaws to open and close as freely as possible. I work the jaws up and down and sideways to rub away imperfections that can impede those motions even if things seem to be working okay.
Some ideas are illustrated in the following video, https://vimeo.com/1098395336
Try pushing on the throat of the snake as shown so that the upper jaw is shoved up into the back of the head then move the upper jaw up and down. It can also help to move the upper jaw up and down while pinching the "cheeks" of the snake as illustrated. Other ways of rubbing parts together can sometimes help too.

Hopefully the segments will all print out without sticking to one another. If some do stick, then likely the first layer was laid down with the segments too close to one another. If there is minor fusion of some segments, then you should be able to use a blade, like the one on a typical pocket knife, to carefully loosen and break the stuck segments apart.

I have tried to make the snake flex as far down the tail as possible. The tapered end of the tail is especially fragile.

As a matter of taste, the better the eyes look, the more impressive the effect. The "head-for-glass-eyes" file contains a replacement head with eye sockets that are recessed and flattened in order to insert 6 millimeter glass eyes. You can order eyes from Amazon (or from Temu if you are cheap like me.)

If you don't want to bother with glass eyes, the standard snake files all include the head with intact, rounded eyeballs.

Assembling the pieces: The head and body parts should easily snap together. It can help to push the attachment parts together at an angle as is illustrated in this video. https://vimeo.com/1098393363

The tongue and head are included as separate pieces so that you can choose which kind of head you want and how the tongue will behave.

The tongue must be gently inserted sideways past some supports and then turned right-side up. It should then slide freely in and out of the mouth as the snake is tilted. This can get tiresome, because the tongue tends to come out anytime the mouth is open.
So ... there is also the option to push the tongue further into the throat and slip it into place so it does not move forward anymore past the lips of the snake. The process is demonstrated in the following very short video at https://vimeo.com/1098389412 .

(Don't forget to remove the little throat tabs meant to stabilize the upper jaw after you finish your print.) Find an illustration at this link https://vimeo.com/manage/videos/1124512960