Transformers Matrix of leadership Lamp & Prop

This model is based on, and inspired by, the Matrix of Leadership in Transformers ONE.
The profile size has been made to match the Orion Pax helmet, for use as a cosplay prop. It also works as a lamp.
There are two styles to choose from, in two sizes:
One “core” has a hole which you can feed a USB cable or LED light strip inside, to make a lamp.
Another “core” does not have an external hole for LED lights or USB cables.
One size is very large, suitable for a big lamp or prop item.
Another size, that is small enough to fit on the A1 Mini, is best suited as a display item. The hole to thread the LED light strip or cables through may be too small to create a functional lamp at this size.

It is not recommended to print this too small, as connectors will not fit and details will become lost.

Either LED striplights or the LED lamp kit from Bambulab work for this model; which to use depends on your lamp display preferences.
To use the lamp kit, I recommend sticking the underside of the lamp to the inside face of the matrix core that won't be on display. This means light will only shine through one side. See below for an example.
For LED strips, you can stick them to the inside walls in a loop. This way, light can shine out both ends.
matrix-lamp.jpg

When assembling this model, it is advised to insert any lights first. Once lights are inserted or are stuck to the blue “core” part, they can then be glued onto the silver/gray “shell”. After applying the blue core, you can then begin glueing the yellow/gold “plates” around the matrix. Finally, the two handles can be inserted; align the handles with their slots, and gently nudge them in. Slightly flex to coerce the handles into the slots if they're stubborn. Glue should not be needed for the handles.
The core and outer plates require glue to stay in place. The plates should fit in any slot, providing there is no debris on the square pegs; sand the square pegs down if they don't fit in any of the slots.

If the matrix is too loose on the stand, due to material shrinkage on either the handles or stand; you can utilise Milliput or another type of air-dry material to thicken the stand, thus allowing it to hold the handles tighter.
My print profile uses Translucent PETG for the core, to allow light to shine through. You will need to change the profile if you are using another material. I used all Bambu Lab materials for my examples. Whilst I used Teal for my core, as it was all I had, I would recommend using Light Blue as it is more accurate. I also used Silk PLA in gold for my display stand, but I recommend Orange PLA Matte to match the rest of the model better.
If resizing the model, make sure you select all the parts and resize them at the same time, otherwise the connectors will not fit.
SUPPORTS ARE REQUIRED!
Support data is already painted, but if you lose it for some reason, set all the gold outer panels, handles, and blue central parts to “auto- normal - snug” and the two silver core shells to “auto - tree -hybrid”.
“Touching Build plate only” setting turned ON is advised.
Brims are automatically generated in Bambu Studio, but if you're using another slicer, turn them on for the gold outer panels. Nothing else needs brims.
Supports are not needed on the display stand.
The 3MF was made in Bambu Studio, so all paint data, including connectors, may not show up when imported into other slicers. (A 3MF made for the Ender 3 S1 Plus is available should the original 3MF not work.)

Whilst provided, use the RAW STL at your own risk; they have no connectors and large parts are not cut up, and they are all scaled for the largest size. The handles won't fit in most machines without being cut up. They fit on the X1C build plate perfectly (you will need to either shrink the whole model or cut the handles up for build plates smaller than 256 x 256 x 256 mm.)
If you cut the STL up yourself instead of using the 3MF, ensure you add and apply any connectors, otherwise attaching the parts together will be very difficult. The only parts that need cutting are the display stand, and the two handles; the best place to cut them is down the middle, so you have 2 finger holes on either side of the cut.

This file covers personal, non-commercial use; do not share or redistribute without attribution. Do not sell the files or prints of the files. Remixing is allowed but again providing attribution is required. Do not remove the creator stamp.
If you want to sell prints of this model, please visit my Patreon to learn how to obtain a Commercial License: https://www.patreon.com/thomastedwards