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ÉTRIER DE PRÉCISION IMPRESSION 3D DIY

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Qualité de la création : 4,5/5 (17 votes)
Évaluation des membres sur l’imprimabilité, l'utilité, les détails, etc.
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  • 176 téléchargements

Description du modèle 3D

Bonjour à tous ! Je suis un nouvel utilisateur et c'est mon premier produit design sur ce site. J'ai le plaisir de vous présenter PRECISION CALIPER DIY. Pour réaliser cet étrier vous devez avoir une imprimante en bon état. J'ai imprimé ce produit sur mon Ender 3 Pro sans aucune mise à jour !

Pour faire l'étrier de précision vous devez avoir seulement (disponible dans n'importe quel magasin de bricolage) :

  • 2 vis M3x25,

  • M3x16 à tête concave,

  • 3 écrous M3,

  • 2 rondelles (vous pouvez aussi les imprimer).

Spécimen :

  • unité mm,

  • précision +/-0.1 mm,

  • résolution 0,05 mm,

  • longueur de mesure 110 mm.

Veuillez visiter le film sur youtube. On y montre comment fonctionne le CALIPEUR DE PRECISION et comment le monter :

https://youtu.be/HpKV71Kowjg

Si vous avez un quelconque problème avec le bon fonctionnement de ce produit, rappelez-vous que vous pouvez toujours mettre à l'échelle toutes les pièces, comme les roues. Dans les autres cas, veuillez me contacter, je vais essayer de vous aider.

Tous droits réservés ; la copie, la reproduction et la distribution sans le consentement préalable du propriétaire est interdite ©.


Paramètres d'impression 3D

Toutes les pièces que j'ai imprimées avec ces paramètres :

  • Matériau : PLA

  • Hauteur de la couche : 0.2mm

  • Buse : 0.4mm

  • Remplissage : 20%

Temps total de construction : ~6.5 heures

Filament total : ~0,032kg (~10 m 1,75 mm)

J'utilise le support uniquement dans 'linear sprocket' et 'dial'.

  • Format du fichier 3D : STL
  • Date de publication : 2021/05/30 à 12h06

Copyright

©

Mots-clefs

Créateur

Design 1
Downloads 176
Sales €372
Abonné·es 30

Hi everybody! My name is Albert and welcome to my profile. I love design gears and another kinematic mechanisms.

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10 commentaires

Hi, great design. When I move the caliperforward and backwards the nuts seem to come off. How have you prevented that in your build?

Hi. Great question. I used self-locking nuts. This is very popular solution. You can also protect nuts or screws using some glue. Regards

This is pretty cool. My shop is setup with inches. Any chance you're working on an inch version?

No, I'm not working on caliper in inch but I don't exclude that I will done in the future. Now I don't have a free time.

i think this is way to expensive. why are you so greedy?

FR1DAY I see you don't realize how much time it takes to design such parts. I'm sorry you say that. If you think the price is too expensive, please don't buy. Although I suspect you would like it for free.

No actually i am always willing to pay something for useful stuff.
But this is no "invention" or something, its just a typical design from a dial caliper.
As i can buy digital calipers for around 6€-10€ in a local store, i think its not worth buying a design for 3€ which is only working perfectly on a perfectly calibrated printer.
So yeah, i think 1€ would be fine as there are similar designs for free.

4 bucks is cheap considering the cad work. 2nd yeh you probs should have a perfect calibrated printer to print calipers.... your lucky its not sls or sla. lack of calibration skill sounds like a personal problem. pro tip use a smaller nozzle.....

UPDATE. I have since made adjustments on the slicer to compensate for dimension inaccuracy. I have reprinted the caliper and it works great! For the people who want to get the best results, it is important that your printer is dimensionally accurate. Albert thank you for the time you spent creating this tool.

D52PERRY you chossed not simple product to started adventure with 3D printing :)
When I was designing PRECISION CALIPER I included loose tolerance to could make this product on 3D printer. If your printer isn't in good condition, such us not calibrate flowrate, it has problem with elephant foot, tension belts is to loose etc., it could appear problems with not smooth movements.
Simple solution of this problems is to scaling part/parts in order to increase fits and clearances. Please write me an e-mail to: alberto17@interia.pl. It would be best, when you attach some photos and films after assembly and before. Write also settings what do you use: diameter of nozzle, layer height, infill, do you use brim or raft or nothing. I wll help you.

I use sandpaper only to align areas in 'depth guage', jaws in 'linear sprocket' and 'sleeve'. I thing is important to remove sharp edge on the bottom of parts (on the first layer) in 'linear sprocket' and ' sleeve'.

You know that you can just reply to comments, right?

FR1DAY of course. I see that you are new user:) This is a new function who were introduced a few days ago. I think is definitely a better solution :)

I am new in 3d printing. I used PLA. I don't know if you did any sanding or not. The linear rail and slider were stiff from the get go. Yours were very smooth
All the movements on yours are smooth. Mine did not come out that way.

D52PERRY Please watch film on youtube with assembling and tell me in what moment the problem appears. Remember that all the parts must working as shown on youtube, for example the "sleeve" must loosely slide on the "linear sprocket".

So I printed the STL's on a Flashforge creator pro 2. I was able to put it together and applied some lubricant. I couldn't get it to work properly. Also it would get stuck on the clog

SIMONTILLEMA thank you for your comment. I encourage you to express the opinion of the people who printed and assemblied this caliper. Tell mi if you have some problem to do this.
Regards Albert

It's crazy bud! Thank you very much! Totally worth it's money. As QC engineer and 3D printing hobbyist, this totally is what I love.


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