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Ender3 V2 double ventilateur 40mm hot end duct / fang. Ender 3, Ender3 pro, CR-10, Micro Swiss direct drive

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Description du modèle 3D

Briss Moto design

Pour que les choses soient claires, mes dessins et modèles sont protégés par la législation sur les droits d'auteur. Il n'est pas autorisé de distribuer ou de vendre mes dessins ou modèles sans mon autorisation écrite préalable. Même si vous avez modifié mon dessin ou modèle original. Je vous remercie.

V4.2

-Maintenant compatible avec le micro swiss direct drive M2601 M2602. Vous devez imprimer le crochet, l'entretoise et le bouton de l'extrudeuse. (un support tactile BL sera disponible pour cette configuration dans la semaine à venir ou 2)

-Tous les modèles sont disponibles avec des lumières LED intégrées (LED de chapeau de paille de 5mm à l'avant et possibilité de mettre une étoile de 20mm à l'intérieur). Les deux fichiers sont disponibles, avec ou sans lumières. Il est un peu plus délicat d'imprimer celui avec les lumières, a de petites caractéristiques.

-Réaliser la languette du boulon central plus grande, plus robuste et plus facile à imprimer (ender 3 pro et microswiss)

-a découpé le trou du fil pour le ventilateur avant

V4.1

-modifié un peu le montage pour Ender3 & Ender 3 pro. Maintenant un fichier différent de celui de l'Ender 3 V2.

-Ajout d'une fente pour les fils du ventilateur avant

2021-02-04 : Ajout d'une minuscule pièce d'appoint optionnelle qui passe sous le ventilateur de la partie chaude pour compléter le conduit afin d'obtenir une efficacité maximale absolue. Laisser cette pièce séparée du crochet car elle empêcherait de l'imprimer sans support. Il suffit ensuite de le coller en place. Compatible avec les crochets V3 et V4. STL nommé :BRISS fang V3 V4 contrôle du débit.

Versions :

V4.0 Même géométrie que la V3 mais avec des améliorations mineures pour une meilleure imprimabilité et ajout d'un trou pour les Ender 3 pro (+ support tactile BL pour les 3 pro)

-Ajout d'un insert au milieu du ventilateur de refroidissement de la pièce pour réduire les turbulences et aider à l'efficacité.

-Déplacé le Fang un peu vers la gauche pour mieux se centrer sur la partie chaude

-Réduit un peu les crochets (points de fixation à droite) pour faciliter l'installation.

-faire l'insert du ventilateur supérieur à nouveau plein pour faciliter l'adhésion au lit

-ajouté un pont pour relier la cheminée à la bride supérieure du ventilateur pour aider ceux qui ont des problèmes d'adhérence

-une encoche dans le conduit de refroidissement de la partie chaude pour faciliter le dégagement du boulon lors du pivotement, ce qui facilite l'installation

-a fait le trou un peu plus grand pour les fils du ventilateur avant, permet de passer quelques minuscules connecteurs de balles.

-Ajout d'un 2ème trou à l'arrière qui s'aligne avec la plaque arrière originale Ender3 / Ender3 Pro.

-BL parenthèse tactile spécifique pour chaque version

2021-01-03 edit : J'ai ajouté le STL pour le conduit du ventilateur avant afin d'éviter d'aspirer tous les débris et filaments de la plaque de construction. Imprime sans aucun support, il suffit de le poser à plat sur la bride du ventilateur. Pour l'installation, vous avez besoin des tiges de poussée plus longues (STL nommé "holder pin 4020 fan + duct")

La V3.0 a des conduits beaucoup plus grands que la V2. Il fait circuler beaucoup plus d'air dans vos pièces. Le conduit est également plus large, de sorte qu'il refroidit correctement la pièce lorsqu'on fait des lignes droites dans la direction Y. Les supports de touche BL spécifiques à chaque version

Le crochet compact et élégant permet l'utilisation de deux ventilateurs de 40 mm. Facile à imprimer et à utiliser, c'est une pièce unique qui se fixe de la même façon que le couvercle du ventilateur d'origine sur le Ender 3 v2. Il s'imprime à l'envers sans aucun support. Vous pouvez utiliser des ventilateurs de 10 ou 20 mm d'épaisseur. J'ai inclus le fichier STL pour les tiges de poussée sans outil pour fixer les deux tailles de ventilateurs, mais il a également des évidements pour les écrous M3 pour boulonner les deux ventilateurs. Les écrous M3 doivent avoir un hexagone de 5,5 mm et une épaisseur maximale de 2,5 mm.

L'idée derrière ce projet était de pouvoir utiliser deux ventilateurs 4020 silencieux. Avec mon bloc d'alimentation de 120 mm, le niveau de bruit des conduits de ventilation est descendu à environ 50 dB (15 DB plus silencieux que l'original) et je dois encore changer le ventilateur supérieur pour un 4020. J'ai utilisé un ventilateur Sunon MF40202V2-1000U-A99 (acheté sur Digikey). Il est plus bruyant avec des boulons M3 que les poussoirs, et semble transmettre plus de vibrations par des boulons rigides. J'ai ajouté une résistance de 330 ohms au ventilateur de refroidissement de la partie chaude de Sunon pour réduire la vitesse et le bruit (ce qui ramène la tension du ventilateur à environ 18V)

Note : c'est très compact et bien ajusté, j'ai dû enlever la chaussette en silicone sur l'extrémité chaude pour pouvoir l'insérer et la remettre ensuite. Les fils du chauffage sont bien rentrés entre les deux conduits et j'ai fait une cheminée pour les relier avec un serre-câble et éviter la rupture des fils par fatigue. J'ai également fait des trous sur la face de montage du ventilateur pour que les fils puissent passer à l'intérieur pour une installation propre.

Pour les sceptiques, un pont parfait jusqu'à 40-50mm avec le ventilateur 4010 hot end de série sur le dessus. Il parvient toujours à faire le pont avec le 100 mm, mais il a l'air horrible. C'est du PLA. Ce serait mieux avec un ventilateur 4020 mais c'est plus que suffisant pour ce dont j'ai besoin.

Fabriqué un support BLtouch qui s'imprime séparément si nécessaire. Celui-ci a besoin d'un support tho.

Le CR-10 ne sera adapté qu'à l'extrémité courte3-5 hot end******

Elias a fait une vidéo d'installation du ventilateur super sympa si quelqu'un veut avoir tous les détails sur la façon de l'installer.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQC6NVd42q0&ab_channel=Randomecticly&fbclid=IwAR2KmPdp5_auHxrN__kBUmhRZAtyqxc8Zgz6rmZ_RI7E9oedNEcYEx_3A6c

Paramètres d'impression 3D

IMPORTANT ! Vous devez utiliser le bouton "LAY FLAT" en cura pour que la bride soit à plat sur le lit. Car si vous ne faites pivoter le modèle qu'à 90 degrés, la bride ne sera pas plate et vous aurez du mal à l'imprimer. La bride est à environ 88 degrés de la verticale, donc ce n'est pas évident à voir. J'ai oublié de le signaler tout à l'heure, désolé.

0,2 mm d'épaisseur avec une buse de 0,4 mm

Aucune aide du tout

Je recommande l'impression en PETG parce qu'elle est plus flexible et qu'elle sera plus facile à assembler sur la partie chaude.

  • Format du fichier 3D : STL
  • Dernière mise à jour : 2021/03/02 à 22h00
  • Date de publication : 2020/11/23 à 6h29

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Mechanical engineer and motorcycle enthusiast

Motorcycle related stuff enventualy coming. I'm setting up accounts and eventually a web page, etc. Stay tuned.

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115 commentaires

Yes, it works after a small adjustment of the holes and grinding of the blowers :D

I just installed a MS on my Ender 3v2 last week, it's working just fine. Hotend is about 1.5mm below bottom of the fang.

@ROVED86 the current MS all-metal hotend is ~0.5-1mm difference. I'm sure it will work as there are others who have verified it already.

@ROVED86, how old is your MS unit? According to MS, their current production units are about the same length as the OE hotend.

MS does not fit them the nozzle is too high Ender 3v2

It would appear that several printed this in PLA, see the "Makes" section. Perhaps they can answer your question about temps.

Has anyone tried to print the set in PLA ? Does it take well the high temps ?

Regarding my post below, M4 bolts rather than M3: M4 seems to perfectly bite into the print without needing nuts. I figured you'll be releasing another improvement soon enough so I am not too worried about long term vibrational wear.

Thanks. My print was in PETG and though I did see the slots on the model, I could not get the slots to open. On another issue, I printed the pegs with PLA and every one of them broke at the fork. I think I'll use M4x30 hex bolts and put o rings at the bolt heads to help dampen vibration. Any advice on why my pegs would break (aside from the known fact that PLA can be brittle)? Printing temp or layer depth?

Yes there is a slot. You can see it on picture #16 with the leads going through. I'll print another one this afternoon and make an assembly guide.

Yes, the hook on the right is now a single large one rather than 2 small ones. Easier to print and better mechanical resistance .

Chimney was moved to the right to make room for direct drive. And it gives more room for the wires at the same time.

@Briss: Regarding V4.2, are the LED pods supposed to have slots for the leads? I don't see how the legs and wires would be routed. A similar question goes for the star. How would it be oriented?

Also, on V4.2 vs 4.1 for E3V2, I noticed other subtle changes. The wire guide on the right side is larger along with other small changes. The bracket on the right went from two small tabs (like the factory) to a single, longer rail.

@Briss: Regarding V4.2, are the LED pods supposed to have slots for the leads? I don't see how the legs and wires would be routed. A similar question goes for the star. How would it be oriented?

Also, on V4.2 vs 4.1 for E3V2, I noticed other subtle changes. The wire guide on the right side is larger along with other small changes. The bracket on the right went from two small tabs (like the factory) to a single, longer rail.

@FLIPP06, one option is to trim/file/grind down the shroud a bit while keeping the design shape.

I have 2 people already that confirmed the MS hot end is within 0.5mm of the original one. It will fit.

@Snovvman - I just wanted to make sure. I think the MS hotend sits about 7mm lower than the stock hotend. I've seen other fan shrouds remixed just for the MS all-metal hotend before for the same reason.

@FLIPP06: Based on several posts below, MS/Bowden works fine. If this is not correct, someone please chime in.

Has anyone verified that this will work with the MicroSwiss all-metal hot end (Bowden setup)?

Hi Anthony

It's usualy means you have a problem with the thermistor or thermistor wires. It happens sometimes as we move the wires aroud to install the duct.

Has anyone noticed that now the printer has to work harder in order to reach the desired hotend temperature? Also, the PID tuning is totally off with the new fan/duct design. I've been using the 40x40x20 fans. Would a 40x40x10 be a better choice? I am even sometimes getting the heating error from the E1 heating failed error.

Leds is the only functional difference for the ender 3 fang, yes. Had to move the chimney to clear the direct drive and stuff like that but it doesn't change performance wise or anything like that.

Next iteration is to make this fit with an NF-CRAZY hot end (mosquito clone) otherwise i'm running out of ideas right now for improvements lol.

Be carefull with the LED specs because the power draw will affect the resistor you need. Measure the real power draw. The ones i have were supposed to be 0.5watts... they are actualy 0.15w at 3.2v... china 💩🤦‍♂️

OK, for a pair of 3.6V/20mA bright white LEDs, the calculations show I need a 820 Ohm resistor. I am printing (again) in black PLA, so I don't really need the internal LEDs.
Is there another upcoming improvement we should be aware of?
As I understand, for a stock Ender 3 V2 hotend, the only thing that changed in v4.2 is the fang, right?

🤣 lol sorry about that

Just so i could plug then on the front fan power. Lights up the logo too since my fang is translucent. 2 leds in the front so i put 6 more pluged in series with the 2 up front (total 8 leds in series) 8*3v =24v

I just finished printing the V4 fang yesterday, and today there is a new version, with LEDs!
Back to printing board...
P.S. What's the purpose/function of the in series LEDs?

I don't think it will cause any issues. The duct inside will still be aiming for the hot end heatsink. Still a lot better than the stock fan without any ducting mostly pushing air around the heatsink rather than through it.

@Briss or anyone else--any thoughts on my question re BLTouch: For the E3 V2, when placing the fan manifold screw tab over the factory metal BLTouch, it will cause the manifold to not fully sit flush against the back plate. Will this cause a cooling/airflow problem with the hotend? Thanks.

@Briss--either way, I just purchased it. Even if I had to pay again later, I think it's a worthy product.

At 2.09mm it's pretty close to my CAD. Seems all good to go. Just level your bed to the correct clerance with your nozzle and you'll be fine.

Snovvman, i think you can just download again once you bought it but i'm not 100% sure.

Donations are apreciated if you are very happy with the model too 😁

This design is impressive and the continued improvement is a plus. It is especially helpful to have the clearance for the BLTouch and use the factory metal bracket (per @ROGERIOCAMORIM comment below) It is well worth buying. Questions: 1) For the E3 V2, when placing the fan manifold screw tab over the factory metal BLTouch, it will cause the manifold to not fully sit flush against the back plate. Will this cause a cooling/airflow problem with the hotend? 2) Once purchased, will future versions/updates be included or will they need to be re-purchased? Many thanks.

Yes, the Micro Swiss tip protrudes below the ducts.

With petg you print with no fan at all or very little. I'm not sure about bridging with petg tho, never looked into this.

Thx for the nice comments :)

Hi, excellent work thanks. I have just paid and downloaded it.
I will be printing in PLA (as i'm a noob).
I plan on using 2 x Noctua NF-A4020's, (because i want it as quiet as possible and don't know any different tbh). However if i start using PTEG would i need a fan that pushes airflow better than the Noctua?
Many thanks for your creativity and support.

So the nozzle with the micro swiss does protrude bellow the ducts?

I just put this on a MicroSwiss all-metal hot end (Bowden setup), I think that measures up just about right. Tough to get a precise measurement but it looks reasonably close. BTW I'm very impressed with the tolerances and fit of the unit on my Ender 3 Pro

Not exactly, nozzle is supposed to protrude 1.5mm past the ducts.

The tops of the ducts are supposed to be even with the top of the nozzle, is that right?

does anyone know if this will work with the Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend? Any information will be a appreciated.

thx.

Is it possible to use the stock E3V2 BLTouch metal bracket with this design? Perhaps put the screw tab over the metal BLTouch bracket? Thanks.

@Brissmoto All good. I figured as much I was just curios. I have a couple 4010's on the way and will drop in some 4020's once I can afford them. The shroud should be done by the time I get home tonight so I will snap a picture of it and another one once it is on and get it uploaded as a make.

@Matthew, no i don't. The stock blower won't move enough air to make it work properly anyway.

@Brissmoto thank you for the quick reply. One other question I have is do you have a version of this with an adaptor or top part that would use the stock blower fan (since its one of theones that blows out sideways not straight through)?

@Brissmoto Thanks for the quick reply. Somehow I missed the incredibly helpful (and entertaining) video here. Thanks again

@Matthew, it does not fit the microswiss direct drive. Not sure if any do work with it tho, i have not looked down this path.

@Teugshop. Just the fan in front i used a resistor. Yes, only to reduce noise. Do not plug the fans in series or parallel. They both have their respective wires. The one in front replaces the OEM 4010 axial fan (blk and red wires). The one on top replaces the small blower (blue and yellow wires. Blue plugs to the black of the sunon and yellow plugs to the red wire)

Enjoy 😁

Just bough the file and I am looking forward to checking it out. Do you have one that works with direct drive mounts?

First off, thanks for the design. I’m brand new to 3D printing (one week in) and learning all I can. I’ve purchased your plans and also (2) Sunon MF40202V2 fans at your recommendation. I was curious about the wiring – you mentioned you used a 330 ohm resistor to bring down the voltage to the fans to 18v? Why not do direct replacement at 24v? Is that to lower the fan noise and speed?
Also, when you add the second Sunon MF4020 24v, will you add it in a series? Just trying to make sure I don’t short anything out 😊 Thanks again for the guidance!

@Wheelezz, thanks for the comment but I'm sorry, you did not buy my files so i will not share that with you. Thank you for your understanding.

Hi,
Could you please send me the front fan duct that goes onto the fan.
Already have the rest of the fan duct mounted but still missing this last piece. :)

Great work btw!

@Brissmoto, thanks for the prompt response. cant wait!!!!

Zenonasz, i do not plan to share my source files but i do plan to make a version that fits the mosquito clone as i ordered one myself. Send me an email, i will send the mosquito version directly as soon as it's available. Brissmoto@outlook.com

XonarR, thanks for the nice comment 😊

i have purchased and downloaded your design, looks great and from what I read I have been convinced that is working properly.
i was hoping that I can fit a mosquito clone (nf crazy) but to my surprise, I am not.
are you planning to share an editable design? can you adapt your design to fit a wider hotend?

If you read through the comments you will find the answer.

It is not necessary to go bigger.

Your product is amazing. I love it! :)

Did you ever consider a fang with dual 60mm fans since
we can have much better airflow and we go much lower
with acoustical noise?

I actually have someone test fitting an ender 5 version as we speak. If everything goes well it should be uploaded tomorrow.

Thanks for your interest :)

Hi, could you do one for the Ender 5? I have this in my Ender 3 V2 and would love one on the Ender 5. Lots of people use them and I think it would be a really good seller.

@Brissmoto I just did. I hope I sent to the right email. Let me know if you received.

Gabriel, BLtouch offset is 44mm and 8mm from the center of the nozzle

Xilindroh, send me an email if you want to discus about that. Depends if it's a complete redesign or just moving things 1-2mm

Yes, I agree. But It ti possible to offset the duct fan to avoid this clash? I'm using this modification https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4597441/comments. If you believe that is possible, could you help me or authorize me to modify the fan duct position? I'll not post it I'll give you back.

@Brissmoto Could you please confirm the BLtouch offset? your post is from 2 month ago, which I believe refers to the v3.

Thank you!!

Yes you can use the metal one. I am doing it.

new download and l looked and maybe i didnt read but did the offsets change for bltouch mount? if so what are they? and also ive got the v3 bltouch with the metal mount can i use that instead of the printed one?

Honestly, i don't think it's going to fit. The extruder will be sitting where the fan goes.

Very nice design, I just bought. Just a question, I did a modification for a direct drive with a BMG clone. Do you thing there is a room to fit it there? You didnt post a side picture of yours so I may need to modify my BMG support to feet.

100% happy with this product!!! No questions/changes/etc here... PLEASE keep doing what you're doing. Sharing my unique configuration results:

  • Goal: equivalent or better cooling, reduce noise to acceptable levels for office environment
  • Fans: 3x 40x20mm Noctuas (12v FLX for parts cooler, 5v PWM for hot-end due to lack of FLX stock on Amazon)
  • Power: 2x DC-to-DC buck converters under system
  • Top has 2x FLX fans configured in a series, with a spacer between them; this is to increase static pressure which Noctuas lack (they're great for airflow/sound, bad for pushing air through tight spaces/ducts)
  • Fans wired in parallel
  • Fans in series don't increase airflow, but do increase static pressure
  • Fans in series are recommended to have space between them as they will not be as efficient if directly spaced next to each other
  • "Flowinator" 40mm cone design found on Thingiverse to cut down on dead space in spacers
  • PID tuning is absolutely required on changing configuration - my temps were WAY out of whack on installation. This freaked me out at first, but is 100% normal when you change the entire cooling configuration for the hot-end. 3 cycles are recommended by most sites for PID tuning, I was able to get slightly better accuracy with 10 cycles (+/-0.5C sinewave jitter on 190-240C tests)... After tuning my hot-end is 100% stable for my needs even with a single Noctua.
  • Using Octoprint is super useful when measuring how well your hotend is holding it's temp, it's also a great spot to do the PID tuning through the GCODE terminal
  • Used PLA for the first version; going to re-print in PETG for some more thermal resistance. With bed at 65C parts on the underside of the shroud reach 35-40C. Due to the good design, parts do not heat up past 30-35C around the hot-end - I checked with a FLIR. I haven't experienced warping, but I am upgrading proactively.
  • The bottom duct is a necessity or you will suck stuff up from the print bed into your hot-end fan... I had this off temporarily during the upgrade for testing and immediately had this issue with some stringing that happened on the start of a print.

RESULTS: Printer is about as quiet as a consumer desktop PC with fans at 100%. Cooling results are better than stock Ender 3 performance. Girlfriend says I "Borg-ed it up" - mission success.

NEXT STEPS: I did order a single Sunon fan, and it is slightly louder than the dual 40x20 configuration with significantly better cooling performance. I will be upgrading to that for my hot-end when I do the PETG print. I am also excited to install the Feb. 2 patch.

Thanks for your great work! Cheers!

Rogerio

Well noted. I'll have a look at that.
Thanks :)

yes the v2. But the hole was the top one, not the one on the plate :D

Rogerio, i guess you have an ender3 or a pro? The v2 has threads in the plate so you don't need a nut to fix it. Just screw it in the back plate that's why the hole is meant to have a passing bolt througb it.

Thank you Dominic for your time and dedication in solving in my case the problems found in the previous versions, I believe in my modest opinion that with these updates I have the best Fan today. With the updates I have been able to mount the ender3v2 without any problems with two (2) Sunon 4020 24V Fans.

The Bl touch holes where I screw the bl touch could be a little more small so it will fix by itself without any M3 nuts.
Also the 4010 bolt is a little bigger to use on the stock 4010 from vent.

Sorry, never heard of that.

This is an awesome looking make. My only question is:

Is there a TH3D EZABL mount that you are aware of that I can use with this? I will be buying this for my Ender 3 V2.

I replaced both stock fans with Noctua 40x10 plus a 470-ohm, 1-watt resistor. It's wonderfully silent. Next will be the MB and power fans, but right now if those underside fans aren't running, I can't even tell the printer is on!

I did mod the mesh a little to make things easier:
- Fill in holes along the side for more strength (my first print cracked along the holes when installing)
- open up wire cage on the right
- change the 2 flanges that hang on to the right side of the hot-end carriage to be one long one, with thicker support
- added 1mm radius bevel on the flange to make it easier to attach

I'd like to share the remix back to you if possible.

Hi, is there a possibility to have the design with 6cm or 8cm fans?
So I can use bigger Noctua fans with higher air flow to have a silent 3D printer with enough air flow?

JAROSLAVZBRANEK, sounds like you need the hot end fix or similar issues. If it was the settings it would fail from the start.

just the stock axial fan. You will need to replace the blower by another axial fan.

Hi thank you for this! Could you please confirm blTouch X/Y offsets?

Hi, what settings are you using for PETG? After 45% it always failed to print. My current settings are 230 °C nozzle 80 °C bed 0.8 infill line width (helps with infill) print speed 40 mm/s, Infill speed 20 mm/s (can't print at faster speed because it doesn't stick and it makes more fails) but I tried like 10 different settings and nothing is working.

Since the V4 version got some minor changes in positioning, has the X and Y Offset changed? Maybe include those in the description :)
This was my very first stl purchase, cant wait to install it and get this printer finally silent! Great job!

Wow! Strange thing. you might want to try using cura for this one then.

I use Simplify3D and they load into the software at several feet long. I found a setting to reset the scale though and they look right now. Going to try a test print tomorrow. Thank you for responding!

Callmehero what do you mean scale the pins? They should print as is, just select the file with the correct length. Best printed out of petg since it's more flexible. Sometimes just a little hard to push in the first time.

I can't seem to get the pins to scale to the correct size, what should the dimensions be?

Very cool -- I got mine all printed out, and have 2 noctua 40x10mm fans here. I hooked them up to my bench power supply at 24V and tried a few different resistor values. 330 gives me a voltage across the fan of about 14.5V, whereas 470 ohm brings it wo 12.4V, with a current around 24 mA, dissapating just over 1/4 watt. That's just about perfect, so I'll be going with that setup. Thanks! I'll submit a photo when it's all connected -- really pleased with the design!

Hi Fredrik

Thanks for the nice word. I'll keep that in mind when working on a successor to this design.

Hey, after using this for two months now I only have one thing to bring up, as constructive criticism, everything else is great about the V3 Fang.
I am using a 4020 fan, and the angle of the fan mount makes the fan get closer to the bed, and that makes it hard to see the nozzle, unless looking from the left or right side.
Yes, it depends on your own viewing angle and such - I got the printer on a normal table and im crouching and bending trying to see whats going on.
I even tried to mod it to change the angle, but since parts of the design intersects in good way its hard, and I'm just a Tinkercad noob ;)
I am now testing another fan duct, wich has the front fan aligned with the bed and my back and neck pain is gone - But I will keep following you and see if you release anything good again because the design is great compared to others.
Thanks!

Greetings Dominic, I hope you are well together with the family, I tell you I have a 3v2 ender and the fan printed without problems, but it has been crazy to center it, first it is not in the center of the hoten axis and when putting the silicone sock this is very glued to the left trailing edge of the fan, when wanting to put the Bl touch piece this off-center the piece pushing it towards the right end, unfortunately I realized late that the screw holes do not coincide with the fan holes, if I could send you pictures I would do it but I can't here. I would appreciate if you could give me a guide to solve the installation.

use a 2 watt resistor, you just put in series with the positive going to the fan. with this you still get to use the pwm fan speed with the part cooling fan

What wattage resistor did you used at 330 ohm? Did you just add it to the +5V line? Does it affect speed control on the filament fan?

I used a 24fan as written in the description...

Carefull with resistors, it has to be sized with the fan amperage draw. I calculated 330 ohms for noctura to get 12v. But it is indeed the easiest solution.

You dont need a buck converter, if your running a 12v fan then buy a 2watt 220 ohm resistor from ebay etc and wire this in series. job done. i have no idea why people think you NEED a buck convertor, absolutely no need at all

Hello,
i've printed all parts and i've purchased NOCTUA 40*20 fans to replace the two stock fans.
Where do i put the buck converter ? inside the base ? Do you have pictures of where you put them ? I also assume you kept the stock wires and solder them on the fan ?

The sanding trick worked thanks! I’ll wait for the next version before I print it out again rather than messing with supports inside the ducts.

Sorry guys, i will not do one without the logo.

Thanks for the nice comments.

Yes, the top nuts inside the duct are indeed a bit extreme, that's the only spot that doesn't print perfectly, it's on my list of things to improve for the next version.

For the push pins they work a lot better in petg since it's more flexible. Pla is very stiff. It is a tight fit, depending on printer set-up/calibration if the pin is slightly oversized it might not go through. You might get away drilling the holes just a few thousandths bigger? Or using a file to make the pins a tad smaller?

Good luck

I printed this and it’s decent however I ran into a few issues that I’m wondering if you could help me with so I can reprint it again later. Firstly, inside of the ducts it’s very messy where the hex nuts are. I looked at the slice and those points are pretty extreme angles so I’m wondering if you ran into the same issue. Also, I can’t get the the push pins to go through. I’ve seen other people get them to work so I’m wondering what may be wrong. Thanks!

Hello! Model printed great.

Good luck with the bike shop!

Could you please make a version without the logo on it?? I want to buy this design but I don't want the logo there on front.

Great design works good for PLA or anything where you need air below the hotend but for ABS and PETG too much air gets below down by the nozzle without the parts fan on. The only thing I would suggest is making something that directs air only at the cooling block and possibly something that could go on the back to direct air up instead of out the back where it goes down. I have seen a few designs with things like this but they do not fit my hotend. Still learning 3d programs so not in my wheelhouse yet to do this. Just my 2 cents.

That would be an error with your slicer. Might want to try another slicer or change some settings in there.

Can you help it seems something in the code is lifting my z axis 5mm after about 5 seconds of print??

Thanks

Thanks for uploading it, I love the model and just what I'm looking for my Ender3 V2.
I know it's a long shot but may I request a version without the logo, please?

You can cut and weld the wires together or install a connector. I used some bullet connectors on mine to make it easy to remove the fans if needed.

Oke thanks

How you connect the fan's ?

Dennis

Sorry guys but adhesion issues has nothing to do with the STL. It's a common printing issue. I always got away using a brime or raft on my prints that were more intricate, except one roll of petg i got that wouldn't stick what ever i did. Some rolls stick better than others and it's very dependant on ambiant temperature, humidity, printing material, etc. There are some excelent youtube tutorials on adhesion issues, you guys should look that up. Oh and thinner layers is usually harder to get to stick properly, i would suggest going the other way around with thicker layers.

same major issues print comming lose off bed

im having major issues printing this with no brim, the centre circle keeps coming off the bed as theres very little meterial on the bed, trying to print at 0.12 layer height, but does not like it

Thanks 😁

Briss logo is from my new motorcycle and engineering shop (Briss being part of my last name). I'm not done yet setting that up but it's coming during the winter.

Using it on my Ender 3 V2. Awesome hot end.
Can you explain the "Briss" logo? Google could not help.

offset is -45x and -8y with the bltouch mount

Hello… what are the X and Y offsets to use for the BL Touch probe?


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