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Print-In-Place Pumpkin Spider

Qualité de la création : 5,0/5 (5 votes)
Évaluation des membres sur l'imprimabilité, l'utilité, les détails, etc.
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Description du modèle 3D

C'est un V2 du Pumpkin Spider Transformer, que j'ai fabriqué en 2018.

Contrairement à la V1, cette version sort directement de votre imprimante - aucun support, assemblage ou colle n'est nécessaire !

Le mode "Pumpkin" se tient mieux lorsqu'il est emboîté dans quelque chose, comme une bobine, une tasse, mais de préférence pas un mixeur.

--- Guide des fichiers : ---

"Imprimante multi-couleurs" - utilisation pour les imprimantes multi-matériaux. Chargez tous les fichiers, attribuez la couleur à ces parties dans votre trancheuse, et vous pouvez y aller !

"Imprimante monochrome" - utilisation pour les imprimantes mono-matériau.

"Pièces de rechange" - pièces de rechange

"Tests d'impression" - petites parties de l'araignée, pour tester la tolérance/les matériaux de votre imprimante avec

--- Post-impression (IMPORTANT) : ---

Vidéo YouTube rapide montrant la post-impression :

Il y a quelques petits connecteurs dans la base de l'impression, pour garder les pièces stables pendant l'impression. Ils sont conçus pour se détacher facilement, mais vous pouvez aussi les couper avec des ciseaux ou des couteaux latéraux.

Il existe également des connecteurs qui maintiennent l'articulation du cou inférieur et le menton, qui devraient se détacher naturellement lorsque vous déplacez les articulations, mais les couper fonctionne également.

Les crocs sont soutenus par les deux jambes avant - tenez la jambe fermement, puis soulevez les crocs des supports (comme montré dans la vidéo)

Profitez-en !

Impression multicolore réalisée par Ryan Schwalb à l'aide de la MMU Prusa

Potiron de base conçu par ton001 sur Thingiverse :

Imprimé en ABS ReelToReal Orange :

Merci pour votre soutien ! Tous les commentaires ont été très appréciés !

Paramètres d'impression 3D

N'oubliez pas d'éteindre les supports ! Si vous effectuez une impression multicolore, vous pouvez utiliser le fichier .3mf, ou charger les 3 fichiers .stl.

Je recommande d'imprimer d'abord un des fichiers tests, pour s'assurer que l'imprimante n'est pas sur/sous-extrudée.


J'ai ajouté "", qui essaie un fermoir à la base des jambes, ce qui devrait aider à maintenir le mode citrouille en place.

Il y a également des connecteurs plus épais à la base, et certains connecteurs à mi-hauteur de la coque, afin d'améliorer la stabilité avec des vitesses d'impression plus rapides/une adhérence au lit plus faible. (Il peut être nécessaire de les couper après l'impression, en fonction du matériau utilisé)

La version "loosejoints" est conçue pour faciliter l'impression - les pièces risquent beaucoup moins de se coincer. (Il n'y a pas de joints à friction cependant, donc le mode "araignée" sera beaucoup plus lâche)

  • Format du fichier 3D : ZIP
  • Dernière mise à jour : 2020/11/03 à 8h12
  • Date de publication : 2020/10/21 à 7h45



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40 commentaires

"full_loosejoints" should be in there by "full"

I'm just getting around to printing this cool pumpkin. I don't have a loose version in my file list after unzipping.

And yes an ABS print should me much stronger
Turning down the cooling a little can help with strength too

Glad I could help!

I think most slicers have elephants foot compensation that you can tweak, to fix the first few layers’ tolerance

Update: thanks again for the loose version. I finished printing it and had no trouble getting it apart. I still think the inner part of the legs is going to be the weak point on a toy for a 6 year old, but worst case scenario I try printing my first ABS print :D The loose version is certainly very loose but that part of it is fine for a kid.

Also, I'm pretty sure my initial problems with getting the main print to open were due to over extrusion. The bottom of the spider was basically all smooshed together with no gaps. I'm sure the same was happening further up in the layers as well, making the joints almost impossible to move. If I had more time before Halloween I would probably print out the main version again. I might do that sometime this week just to see if it would work now that I worked out that kink.

Thanks again!

Tried the original on my Mingda D2 at 100% then 110% scale, both times broke the inner legs trying to open the petals, no matter how gently ahd how much I carved at the joints to loosen. So thank you very much for making the looser version! I'm printing that now (5 hours to go!) and already can see more space in the joints so hopeful this will be the one.

Nice design, and thank you also for being receptive to the feedback. Checking out your other models now!

Some news from the "spreads out during the print" department - the fixed version holds! I failed the print at ~75% due to filament issues, but that was not related to the model itself. The new connectors made the shell sufficiently sturdy. Thanks again for the fixed version!

Thanks again. You rock!

Yeah, my Anycubic i3 Mega S appears to be giving me a ton of grief. I can't seem to get this bed level and the height keeps changing as the bed heats and cools. The bed might also be bowed. FML.

There's also a test leg in the testparts folder for the loose version

(Also, forgot to mention- I took out those chest-leg jointers, which should help too)

Levelling would definitely be a cause for problems, the elephants' foot can make the joints way tighter

Wishing you luck with your printer! Hope all goes well

Hi there. I really appreciate you adding the loose version. I think I'll definitely need that. I get why you designed it the way you did and it'll be something to aspire to.

I deleted my first comment because I'm just having a ton of trouble with my printer. I mentioned that already but I really want to lay all the blame on my and my printer. I'm having terrible levelling issues that I just can't seem to lick, so I'm going to try again. Thanks for the loose joints version, it's much appreciated.

Alright- I've put in a "loosejoints" version beside the regular one, it should have much fewer tightness issues.

Also there's head_replacement.stl added

Would you be interested in a "loose" version?

I'm proud of getting friction joints to work print-in-place, but a version with loose joints would be easier for you to print

Toxiccl16- The legs should be able to go all the way out, like in the pictures- the groove is to add just enough friction to hold the joint in place. It looks like the parts are printed slightly too thick, making it a little too tight.
I'll slim down the contact area tonight, that could also help

Jonnykjohansson- Yep, on it, making a head/neck replacement, will upload tonight

Any chance to get a separate stl for the head without "orange_hat_replacement" and "eyes_replacement"? :) I apparently don't have the tolerances needed for the print, so I'm printing the parts separately from the "Spare parts"-folder, but I would like to print the eyes and hat in different colors.

Check out this little video. The leg bends very easily in the inward direction, which would interfere with the head. The leg should bend outwards, but much more force is required to do so (How I broke all the legs).

Could you link a picture? What grooves do you mean?

I remade the testleg_v2, but with a 96% flow rate. After looking at the movement of the part, it looks as there are grooves to help it move. However, the grooves seem to help the top part move inward, in the opposite direction. The grooves stop the leg from moving outward, as desired. Is this supposed to be correct in the design, as it seems to prohibit the correct movement?

Ondras, good to hear, hope it turns out well!

Rskelton and toxiccl16- this print does need a well-calibrated setup, which is why I suggest doing the test part first. There’s a couple settings you can tweak to improve tolerance, but scaling up the model could also fix the problem

I checked those new connectors on the 3d model and it looks perfect. Will try printing this improved version tomorrow.

I printed this in Ngen on a Prusa 3. I found that some of the joints were too tight and although I worked carefully with a scalpel to free them, several broke.This was a little frustrating after nearly 12 hours printing. I wondered whether the tightness of the joints would be eased if I were to slice it at say 105 - 110% of the original size.

What do people think?

Hi just downloaded the print yesterday, and printed it today. After printing, I broke almost all the legs from the connector that connects them to the base, as they are too tight. Are there any recommendations for how to print this, and it not be way too tight? (Printed with 0.2mm layer height and 10% gyroid infill, raft, 60mm/s, with 205C and 60C for nozzle and bed.0

Thanks for the idea, I've thickened those connectors, and added a couple more partway up the shells, check the experimental version, this should work good with quick print speeds

I can confirm connectors between the shells at the base. They held firmly. In my opinion, having a second set of these (between individual shells) at ~50% height would solve the shifting issue.

I see what is causing the layer shifting now after checking up on the print frequently. Some of the hinges that are overhangs are curling as can be seen here Here is a highlighted image from my slicer of the portions that are curling The print nozzle ends up hitting these curled sections and then shifting layers. I'm not sure what can be done to help prevent this.

Are there the small connectors between the shells at the base

It’s possible the slicer settings skipped those connectors

Similar to Ondra, I'm also getting some layer shifting during printing. I'm on my 3rd attempt now to see if I can get past this. I've never had any layer shifting issues before on other models. I'm trying to print very slowly as well. I'm printing the perimeters quite slowly at 30 mm/s and infill at 40 mm/s this time to see if that helps.

No, I printed without a raft. I might try that, though I do not think bed adhesion is a problem. The bottom parts of all shells were nicely fixed to the bed, connected together by the wisely placed bottom-side connectors. But as the shell gets taller, it becomes possible for it to wiggle/bend out a bit during the frequent print bed shaking.

I was thinking about pausing the print at ~45% and putting a string around the pumpkin to hold it in place...

Have you tried with a raft? That should solve bed adhesion issues


almost all of the single shells got moved out a bit during the print. Also, one of the front-leg-to-claw connectors got shifted and these two melted together, so separating the claw was complicated and it got damaged in the process.

I've tested the clasps in experimental, and they work on my printer, but if they do break then the legs still will work as normal
There's also some more small connectors in the base to help with stability

I think experimental should be fine, but depending on the plastic used you may need to snip those small connectors in the base after printing

hey, do you recommend printing the experimental ? did you succedded to print it ?

My printer's got a moving Y-axis too (UP Mini), but I've never had that issue, thanks for bringing it to my attention, I'll make a version with extra connectors on the legs

Which part of the leg was moving? The shell part or the part that goes into the chest?


this is an awesome design. Unfortunately, I ran into issues when printing it - because of my Prusa Mini. This printer's Y-axis movement is realized via the print bed, which means that the print shakes quite a lot during the printing. In the case of a pumpkin spider, this means that some of its legs started to spread out slightly at approximately 50% of the print. This resulted in severly shifted layers, rendering most of the pumpkin unusable and ugly. I can provide a photo if you want.

It would be great if you added some way to fix those legs more in place during the print (connect them together via some connector to be clamped off afterwards, for instance). I might try re-printing with a lower speed, but this already takes 13+ hours on 100% speed.

Ah yep, checked it and there was a geometry issue with the part

Done a fixed version, “testleg_v2” replaced it, its got some other updates too

Re-download from the orders section of your acc and it should be there now

Sorry about that! I’d even run a test print with that part, so I don’t know why the geometry was mixed up

No. The test slice has some issues on the sides - I tried to repair it in Simplify3D but couldn't. The bottom doesn't seem to have the same alignment as the regular print, which seems odd. I noticed in the parts folder there is a file where I could print the bottom portion to test it out. I suspect if I drop flow rate to .95 or lower that it will work.

Did you do the test part first?

This is really cool print. I printed it today in PLA (0.2mm resolution, ~7.5h, full size). The bottom where the legs are supposed to fold down is too tight. It needs a little more play to reliably fold. As it is, I got some of the legs to fully extend but most don't (I broke one leg in the process). The rest works - the head comes down, the body flips up. This one tweak that would make it a more reliable print since everything else came out well.

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