Are you ready?¿?

Unveiling Video

Take a look to the MyRCBike NSR500 V1 in its first ride... the "Flying wheels" were quite long, the shell of the bike and the rider were printed in TPU, and I was using a very good Brushless sensored Motor+ESC
MyRCBike NSR500 first ride!

If you preffer to see things under your own point of view, use the next 3D scan ;)
MyRCBike NSR500 3D-SCAN

Features

• Chassis, body and pilot are real 1:5 scale
• Body (fairing) and Pilot designed to be printed in TPU, increasing durability
• Everything turns freely and correctly thanks to its 11 bearings for the chassis and 4 more for the "Flying wheels"
• Fully Functional Front and Rear Suspension System.
• Standard steering system for 1:5 scale, allows the bike to start and finish turns as expected
• Simple auto-correction/steering-stabilizer/Servo-Saver system ;)
• Use standard XL belt for transmission to wheel system
• Belt tensioner allows the perfect fit
• Big space for 2S Battery. Max. 140x50x16mm aprox. 4000mAh
• Standard wheel hubs for more wheel compatibility
• No stinging, cutting or dangerous elements stand out of the motorbike. All exterior parts but forks and wheels are soft material

If driving four wheels can be complicated, more when it comes to 3d printed vehicles, maybe driving 3d printed 2 wheel bike can seem to be impossible. If you also consider the price of the parts to buy, apparently picky ones, and the supposed fragility of a 2 wheel vehicle, probably you will let this idea to pass away... and I don't blame you...)

But there I am, an "exclusivity" non-conformist, who discovered something as simple as the electronics involved in 1/5 RC bikes are the same as the ones from 1/10 RC cars... which I know, have available from previous MyRCCar projects and are easy to buy.
I could enjoy this hobby when I was a child thanks to my "lucky uncle" and the Kyosho NSR500 FA Series he gave me, plus all the time he dedicated to me, but I never really dominated the hobby... Some time ago I started thinking about upgrading this 90's RC bike with new Li-Po and Brushless but soon I realized that the 1/7-1/8 scale was not convenient for me to use my typical M3 screws and known RC electronics.

Finally, you must know that Rockser3D has helped me a lot with "rigging, skinning, and posing" the racer buddy, skills that are a little too much for me right now. The Pilot has no sex or face. Also a ghostly hole in the inside of the helmet that could allow us to print and personalize your own face or the one of your enemy... If he/she is so ugly, just put down the helmet's windshield ;) And better not talking about holding system for the pilot... it could be even inappropriate for some ages… :S

SHOPPING LIST, how expensive is it?

In great numbers you can spend between 60 and 200 in 1/10 electronics, 50 in wheels and belt, 20 more for bearings, screws and other hardware and around 20 more in PLA and TPU filament. Already there?¿?

ELECTRONICS:

Once you know electronics (1/10 scale) are not specially complicated or expensive (you can get them locally or in aliexpress, etc.) there are some other parts pending as the front Fork. It looks (and probably it is) something very precise, necessary for the correct work of the bike. We can see the prices for these front forks from 50 to 150€... and without wheel!!!

FRONT FORK:

Front Fork is then one of the elements I made 3d printable. Anyway, I consider necessary using metallic shafts for each of the two front "shocking tubes", the same as a pair of 10x32mm more common springs which really makes the front shocking action. I created some "TPU seals" for the front fork shocks so you can try, and probably achieve to put some silicone/oil in those tubes.
Actually, the front shock shafts are two 5x85mm piano wire rods.

BEARINGS:

All moving parts of the bike are working with bearings. I wanted to use the most standard size for all of them, 5x10x4mm, being these bearings are so cheap and easy to find. You will need 15 of these bearings for the bike, including the 4 you need for the "flying wheels".

BELT:

In this bike, the transmission from the motor to the rear wheel is made in two "reduction" steps. We can find the first one between the motor pinion and the geared crown in the right side of the motorbike. Actually this gears are Mod1, the pinion can have between 14T and 20T and the crown can have a max of 46T in Mod1 (48mm max diameter). This model includes a 14T pinion and a 46T crown which can do a great combination for a start point.
The second reduction is between the main axle (previous crown transmits its turn to this axle) and the rear wheel with a belt system. This, the belt, is other of the elements which we'll have to buy if we want a reliable bike, and being able to accelerate or break strongly. The gears for this belt system has been designed with XL standard and are then compatible with sourced XL belts, but also with TPU 3d printed ones. I discovered these belts are not so expensive and relatively easy to find, but mostly in 10mm wide. This bike needs a 5mm wide belt and for that I designed and added to the files a "belt divider" to get out two 5mm belts from one 10mm belt. Hurraaah!!! Included gears for this belt system are 13T for the main axle and 30T for the wheel. To use them you will need a 142XL belt, with 71 teeth.
Maybe you don't believe it, but we will need just a few more special elements to build up this bike. You will need more 5mm "piano wire" to "metal-smithing" your main axle if you want a reliable solid transmission (You can initially print the main axle, then copy it "metal-smithing" your 5mm piano wire part and replace it). Also, this main axle is the one on which it tilts the rear fork. If you get 5mm piano wire, you can also cut from there the front and rear wheel axles, but be sure that it passes inside the bearings, because mine did not and I had to "rectify" the diameter sanding it until it fitted...

REAR SHOCK:

Finally two more elements we need to buy... one cheap and other expensive... You will need one 1/10 scale On-road RC car shock with 58 or 60mm from hole to hole for the rear shock of the bike. You can find them for around 2 bucks in aliexpress and maybe a little more expensive in your local store. But now... the expensive element... not talking about the electronics...

WHEELS:

I think is especially important the material composition of the tires is as similar as posible to real ones, or better said, with the most "grip" possible. So, instead of trying to imitate the shape of the tires and print them in TPU to see what happens, I decided to start directly with real good sourced wheels to have a good start point.
I'm using GRX12-M3 and GRX22-M3 wheels from GRPtyres for front and rear wheels respectively. I chose these wheels and its format because is the only one I can find actually available from anywhere in the world and they seemed to respect some kind of standards for 1/5 wheels, or at least they had enough information of the product so I could see if they could do the work before buying.

SCREWS AND MORE:

Finally to complete the shopping list we need a bunch of M3 screws, some M5 ones, a few M4 grub screws... a velcro strap, some good cyano glue and a pen spring (3mm inner diameter and around 20mm length) we will use for our "servo-saver/etc" system... And that's all!!! There is no more trick :)

Complete list of hardware needed

HARDWARE

• 15 5x10x4 Bearings
• 1 5x73-75mm aluminum/steel shaft (Main Axle)
• 1 5x63-65mm aluminum/steel (Rear Axle)
• 1 5x50-52mm aluminum/steel (Front Axle)
• 2 5x85mm aluminum/steel (Front Shock Axles)
• 1 1/10 RC car on-road shock 58-60mm hole to hole
• 2 10x32 springs with 15mm compression
• 1 Pen Spring or similar, minimum 3mm inner diameter and aprox 20mm long
• 1 140XL Timing Belt 70Teeth 5mm wide(buy 10mm wide and cut it)
• 1 GRPtyres GRX12-M3 Front Wheel
• 1 GRPtyres GRX22-M3 Rear Wheel
• 1 Shock Oil, if you think you will need it
• 1 400mm Velcro Strap

• 1 Medium Density CyanoCrylate (loctite)

  ELECTRONICS

• 1 3650 Motor and ESC (40A-80A 2S lipo, 2000-4000kV)

• 1 Standard Servo from 5Kg torque

• 1 Radio and reciever 2 Channels

• 1 140x50x16mm max battery size, aprox 4000mah or smaller than 140x42x18mm alternative

• 1 Battery Charger/Balancer

  FILAMENT

• 1 250g TPU

• 1 400g PLA

• 40 printing hours of PLA @10g/h

• 25 printing hours of TPU @5g/h

  SCREWS

• 4 M3x8 Counter-Sunk

• 2 M3x12 Counter-Sunk

• 14 M3x16 Counter-Sunk

• 4 M3x20 Counter-Sunk

• 2 M5x50 Shocket Head

• 4 M3x40 Shocket Head

• 1 M3x30 Shocket Head

• 10 M3x8 Shocket Head

• 13 M3x12 Shocket Head

• 15 M3x16 Shocket Head

• 5 M4x6 screw grub

• 1 M3x6 screw grub

• 8 M2x4 Little Screws

EXTRA PARTS

The extra parts are not included in this publication and they are not needed to make the bike work. But... I will send or give you access to them when you upload some good pictures of your bike printed.

Those parts are the next ones:

MyRCBike Wheels:
- Front and rear rims and tires, similar to the NSR ones
- Fully 3D printable without supports. To be printed in PLA and TPU AS AN EXPERIMENT or to have the bike in the shelf
- You can print the tires in two halfs and glue them (without bottom layers) as I did or use the complete tire to make a mould for some "silicon"?¿? If you have experience in this, let me know please

GRP Rim Covers:
- If you want to use profesional GRP wheels but cover the rims instead of painting them you can use these rim covers
- You can print them in PLA and glue them just in some few points to avoid it dissasembly during use
- They don't need supports to be printed

Lift Stand:
- Simple thing but useful to hold your bike and also to test it a little
- You will need around 10mm longer rear wheel axle to use it

"MyRCCar Team" decals:
- All the "decals", undestood as thin 3d objects ready to print in different colors
- Remember to "Z scale" each decal to your desired thickness, and maybe XY scale some of them to better fit

Gears Set:
- 28, 29, 31 and 32 teeth XL crowns for the belt system
- 12 and 14 teeth XL pinions for the belt system
- They will allow to increase or decrease the final reduction ratio but also maybe better adapt to the belts you can find

Front Spring:
- Maybe is not the best solution, but a quite nice temporal one until you source the right springs
- You can "Z scale" it to 40mm to have more initial "pre-compression"
- The 10mm wide springs I bought were a little too wide and I made a wider version of the front shock body so the springs fit better

New Belt Divider:
- Now for 9.4mm wide belts, to have two 4.7mm wide belts, perfect for your bike
- Stronger design than previous one, leading into less error while cutting

Imprimante et matériaux

En termes de géométrie, les pièces qui composent le vélo peuvent être imprimées dans des imprimantes FDM avec un volume d'impression minimum de 200x200x200mm.

Bien entendu, la plupart des pièces du châssis doivent être imprimées dans un matériau rigide, comme le PLA, l'ABS ou le PetG. Si vous pensez que votre moteur va chauffer, peut-être devez-vous choisir un matériau rigide qui supporte des températures plus élevées que le PLA.

Mais la clé de ce design est vraiment le reste des pièces, le carénage, qui enveloppe pratiquement complètement le châssis, le protégeant des collisions externes, des coups ou des rebonds. On pourrait envisager d'imprimer ces pièces en PetG (et je l'ai fait), car il se déforme mieux dans certains cas en retrouvant pratiquement sa position initiale, mais ces pièces ont été vraiment conçues pour être imprimées en TPU afin d'aider la moto à survivre à différents types de chocs. Sa moindre flexibilité lorsqu'il est épais et sa grande flexibilité lorsqu'il est fin permettent à ces éléments du corps de se plier lors des collisions ou simplement lorsqu'on les manipule pour mettre ou enlever certaines pièces. Ils créent une sorte d'"airbag" autour du vélo qui absorbe par déformation la plus grande partie de l'énergie des collisions.

Lors de mon premier test de conduite, je ne savais même pas si la moto allait se diriger... J'ai finalement pu expérimenter quelques erreurs de conduite qui ont fait que le vélo a heurté le sol avec de nombreuses parties du corps. Grâce au corps TPU, même sans le pilote, aucune des parties de la moto n'a été endommagée, et j'ai même pu continuer à jouer après quelques collisions, mais d'autres fois, j'ai dû réparer quelque chose de simple comme débloquer une partie du corps avec la direction.

Si certaines pièces en TPU sont trop grandes pour votre imprimante, vous pouvez probablement les découper en deux parties. Si vous imprimez la surface découpée au-dessus du lit, vous pourrez probablement coller ces deux parties ensemble assez facilement.

Certaines parties du corps ont déjà la bonne épaisseur, soit 1,6 mm, quatre périmètres au total de 0,4 mm chacun. Pour les parties dont l'épaisseur est plus faible en position d'impression correcte, j'utiliserais la fonction "Expansion horizontale" ou une fonction similaire de votre logiciel de découpage pour atteindre cette épaisseur totale de 1,6 mm. J'ai testé la flexibilité des pièces de carrosserie avec cette épaisseur de paroi et elles s'adaptent correctement et fléchissent comme il faut pour permettre de les monter sur le châssis. Comme je l'ai dit, ces pièces de carrosserie ont été conçues pour être imprimées en TPU et vous pourriez alors avoir besoin de cette flexibilité.

Liste des pièces imprimées en 3D

Comme dans certains de mes projets précédents, le nom que j'utilise pour mes fichiers est important et inclut le groupe auquel il appartient. Cette fois-ci, je partage les fichiers dans un gros zip, avec des dossiers pour les groupes afin que vous trouviez tout plus facilement.

Ensuite, vous pouvez voir les pièces groupées et le nombre de pièces à imprimer.

Pièces du châssis

• 1 Front Main (nécessite des supports)

• 1 Barre avant

• 1 Support de fourche avant (nécessite des supports)

• 1 Support de carrosserie avant gauche (TPU) (nécessite des supports)

• 1 Support de carrosserie avant droit (TPU)(nécessite des supports)

• 1 Fourche arrière principale (nécessite des supports)

• 1 Moyeu de roue arrière (nécessite des supports)

• 2 Plaque latérale arrière

• 1 Base arrière

• 1 Supports d'amortisseurs arrière

• 1 Essieu principal (3DP ou 5x75mm métal)

• 1 Entretoise d'essieu principal

• 1 Essieu arrière (3DP ou 5x63mm métal)

• 2 Entretoise de servo (TPU)

Pièces du bloc moteur

• 1 Plaque de base du moteur

• 1 Plaque avant du moteur

• 1 Plaque supérieure du moteur

• 1 Plaque latérale du moteur

• 1 Plaque latérale du moteur Extra avant

• 1 Plaque latérale de moteur extra arrière

• 1 Boîtier avant de batterie 50x16 ou 43x18 en option

• 1 Guide de batterie / Support de corps arrière

Pièces de transmission

• 1 Pignon 14T Mod1 (options)

• 1 Couronne 46T Mod1

• 1 Pignon XL 13T

• 1 XL Pinion Extra Lip

• 1 Couronne XL 30T

• 1 Courroie 142XL 71T 5mm (Peut utiliser le customiseur)

• 1 10mm Belt Divider Top

• 1 10mm Belt Divider Base

• 1 Support de palier de tendeur de courroie

Pièces de la fourche avant et de la direction

• 1 Plate-forme de direction TOP

• 1 Plate-forme de direction BOTTOM

• 1 Support de roue avant gauche (nécessite des supports)

• 1 Support de roue avant droite (nécessite des supports)

• 1 moyeu de roue avant (nécessite des supports)

• 2 Corps d'amortisseur principal

• 2 Coupe inférieure de l'amortisseur

• 2 Joint supérieur de l'amortisseur (TPU)

• 2 Joint inférieur d'amortisseur (TPU)

• 2 Tête de piston d'amortisseur

• 2 Arbre d'amortisseur (5x85mm métal)

• 1 Essieu avant (3DP ou 5x50mm métal)

• 1 Bras de directionLong_STD

• 1 Bras de servo de direction

• 1 Pivot de bras de direction

Pièces de carrosserie

• 1 Façade principale (TPU)

• 1 Façade principale avec pare-brise (TPU)

• 1 Réservoir de carburant principal (TPU)

• 1 Main Rear (TPU)

• 1 Pare-brise (transparent)

• 1 MudGuard avant

• 1 Protection anti-boue arrière

• 1 siège cavalier

• 1 Top Rider (TPU)

• 1 bas du cavalier (TPU)

• 1 pare-brise pour casque de coureur

• 1 ButtPlug Rider

Roues volantes

• 2 Roues volantes Corps principal (TPU)

• 2 roues volantes demi-sphère (TPU)

• 2 Roues volantes Entretoise