Aller au contenu

EL-39 - Jet RC semi échelle pour EDF 120 mm

?
Qualité de la création : 5,0/5 (19 votes)
Évaluation des membres sur l’imprimabilité, l'utilité, les détails, etc.
  • 71,5k vues
  • 203 j'aimes
  • 295 téléchargements

Description du modèle 3D

EDIT :

Ajout d'une nouvelle canopée qui est une pièce principale au lieu de deux pour l'impression dans une très grande imprimante (en plus de la partie pare-brise avant). Les nouveaux fichiers sont Canopy01-onepiece et canopy02-onepiece.

L'humain n'est pas inclus.


Spécifications :

Longueur : 1858,5 mm

Envergure des ailes : 1451 mm

Poids total : 7,2 kg (prototype #1), 8 kg (prototype #2), 7,5 kg (prototype #3)

CG : 83-103 mm du bord d'attaque à l'articulation de l'aile avec le train en position haute. Il y a une protubérance sur le dessus de chaque surface d'aile pour indiquer la position sûre 83mm/25% MAC. Le fait de monter ou de descendre le train d'atterrissage devrait faire peu de différence en raison du faible poids du train avant. Le prototype a été lancé avec un CG à environ 90 mm. Un CG de 103 mm a été testé et vole très bien.


Lancements de contrôle initial :

Elévateur : Montée 18 mm / Descente 16 mm

Ailerons : Montée 20 mm / Descente 15 mm

Gouvernail : 15mm / 15 mm

Utilisez 30% d'exponentiel sur toutes les surfaces pour réduire la sensibilité du centre.


Chiffre pilote approprié :

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2970724


Vidéo du prototype sans volets :

https://youtu.be/znbaBhUY25k

Vidéos de Maiden :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9tShEHO5M5s

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gp0sF1WKZ7w

Compilation de survols et d'atterrissages à grande vitesse :

https://youtu.be/KzPiHn8WywE

Vidéos à bord :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uDD7gKV2YSY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_93jys9oADY

Diverses vidéos de vol :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VcE9QgbNThE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jZJCof5v06M

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DpYUfhk2Kec

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E4S3TekVd6I

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JWw4-YrTFSI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fBd4eTZwPW4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LnProCnHUOs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1EPln7NoYhA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=67ruv_F0Jjk


Les notes de construction et la nomenclature sont déplacées dans le fichier texte BuildNotes.txt en raison des nouvelles limitations sur les cultes lorsque j'ai mis à jour la page 17.11.2020.

Paramètres d'impression 3D

La plupart des pièces doivent être imprimées avec un périmètre de 0,4 mm seulement et sans remplissage bien sûr. Les exceptions sont les pièces de charnière, les petites pièces et les pièces de train d'atterrissage qui doivent être imprimées avec de nombreuses parois ou un remplissage solide.

Les logements EDF doivent être imprimés avec un remplissage à 100% et avec trois périmètres.

La roue EDF doit être imprimée avec 6-8 couches supérieures et inférieures, 6-8 périmètres et 0% de remplissage.

Les parties du fuselage ont besoin de 3 couches inférieures et de six couches supérieures pour la plupart.

Je recommande que le Nose03 soit imprimé avec deux périmètres pour les premiers 120 mm afin que les supports de train soient renforcés.

Les Fanrail01 doivent être imprimés pleins si vous envisagez de les percer pour une EDF de rechange.

Les supports principaux01 doivent être imprimés avec six périmètres et vingt couches supérieures pour donner quelque chose à quoi s'accrocher pour les vis de montage de la rétraction. Les couches inférieures peuvent être seulement quatre ou cinq. Le remplissage n'est pas important. J'utilise zéro remplissage.

Maingear01-02 devrait être huit périmètres de 0,4 mm, douze couches supérieures et inférieures et au moins 50% de remplissage. Il en va de même pour les pièces du train avant.

  • Format du fichier 3D : STL, TXT et ZIP
  • Dernière mise à jour : 2021/03/22 à 22h18
  • Date de publication : 2018/06/14 à 23h34

Mots-clefs

Créateur

Designs 158
Téléchargés 27,1k
Abonnés 663

Norwegian inventor/designer/cat owner.

Please don't ask for original design files or parametric files.

If you ask a question about a design, ask under the design so that I can answer there.

Copyright

©

Page traduite par traduction automatique. Voir la version originale.

Collection associée à ce modèle 3D


Makes réalisés par la communauté

Meilleures ventes de la catégorie Divers


Ajouter un commentaire

203 commentaires

Uhhhh, awesome plane, congratulations!!!! Wish I could make 3d desing as you do!!!

Hello, one more question, this time regarding the retracts. I bought those from hobby-china via the link in the build notes (JP Hobby Alloy Electric Retracts). Again, the dimensions seem to be off a little. Here is a photo of what I mean. I cannot fit it more in: https://snipboard.io/UlguS7.jpg
Also, in the main gear bay area, I cannot fit the retract cover as shown here: https://snipboard.io/ahCXG4.jpg, here: https://snipboard.io/CMnYOf.jpg and here: https://snipboard.io/hdbwCz.jpg The cover itself fits into the wing space but the retract seems to be too wide.
If I can ask, what are the supposed dimensions for the retracts? Also, may I ask what exactly is the nose/nose gear assembly supposed to be like (inside)?

Thanks again...

Hello, one more question, this time regarding the retracts. I bought those from hobby-china via the link in the build notes (JP Hobby Alloy Electric Retracts). Again, the dimensions seem to be off a little. Here is a photo of what I mean. I cannot fit it more in: https://snipboard.io/UlguS7.jpg
Also, in the main gear bay area, I cannot fit the retract cover as shown here: https://snipboard.io/ahCXG4.jpg, here: https://snipboard.io/CMnYOf.jpg and here: https://snipboard.io/hdbwCz.jpg The cover itself fits into the wing space but the retract seems to be too wide.
If I can ask, what are the supposed dimensions for the retracts? Also, may I ask what exactly is the nose/nose gear assembly supposed to be like (inside)?

Thanks again...

Here is a photo of the heatsink itself: https://snipboard.io/PXDWm7.jpg
And here: https://snipboard.io/ZhNtMn.jpg I attempt to fit it in, but I get this far, and then the friction/resistance is too high and I cannot push it more in with my hands. I suppose I could use some tools to get more force but I don't want to damage the motor, heatsink, or the housing.
I purchased specifically this heatsink: "Heat Sink 75mm for 50mm Motor and Ejets Jetfan 120 EDF" from turbines-rc.com as recommended in the build notes.

Hello, I have a question regarding the EDF-housing. The motor with the heatsink installed does not fit it. I mean it barely starts going inside, but when I get it halfway in, I cannot push it more. When I measure the outer diameter of the motor with the heatsink attached, it is 55mm. And if I measure the diameter of where the motor should go in the STL file, it roughly equals 54mm. When printed and measured IRL the diameter is the same.

Yes. The inner panels stay attached to the fuselage and the outer panels are removeable. The flaps stay attached to the outer panels. This is done so that the plane will stand on the wheels without the wings attached.

are the wings detachable?

They don't need to open 90°, but if you can't get them to open far enough either move the bracket on the door slightly closer to the hinge point or extend the arm with a piece of plastic or fiberglass.

Different servos have different range.

Does anyone have a suggestion for FPV hardware that could be used/you use with this plane?

Whatever works when printing TPU. TPU printing is very individual to the printers. I have used many different variations of settings. 10% infill, one perimeter and 0,2 mm layers works fine. Two perimeters also works and gives stiffer tire. You'll probably need 4 bottom and 9 top layers for it to cap off the top and bottom with similar stiffness.

Whatever works when printing TPU. TPU printing is very individual to the printers. I have used many different variations of settings. 10% infill, one perimeter and 0,2 mm layers works fine. Two perimeters also works and gives stiffer tire. You'll probably need 4 bottom and 9 top layers for it to cap off the top and bottom with similar stiffness.

Hi, what settings should be used for printing the flexible parts (using TPU)? Mostly how much infill and shell thickness (perimeter count), bottom/top layer counts? Thanks...

Just a suggestion about the print times. I shortened the print times almost by half by printing with a 0,6mm nozzle at 0.37 height at a speed of 75. This creates a very strong print for the fuselage. Printing on a Anet A8 plus. I might go lighter on the wings, still testing.

I use Simplify 3D.

Have you tried printing? It might be fine in real life and only a preview artifact.Try turning off "Compensate Wall Overlaps" also un der the Shell. I don't use Cura but tried slicing now in Cura and it's fine.

Which slicing software would you suggest? I used Creality slicer for the most parts and it came well. I noticed the problem with the wings so I wanted to try Cura but it is the same.

I don't use Cura myself. Try the forum on RCGroups where. Something is wrong if there are holes with 0,4 mm extrusion. It's not a problem with the model. The material thickness there is 0,7 mm.

Each of the large parts of this plane can take two to three days to finish.

The problem still persists even with 0.2mm layer height. (print time over a day)
snipboard.io/Idunor.jpg

Why on earth would you use 0,4 mm layer height? Max 0,2 mm layer height.

If I use 0.4mm nozzle and print layer height 0.4mm and 1 wall line of 0.4mm, it is very similar: snipboard.io/N1FqxA.jpg
The print time is almost 17h with a print speed of 55mm/s (wall speed of 27.5mm/s and travel speed 150mm/s)

I use Print With Smile PLA now. It's very good. Just about any PLA will be good.

It's because you're extruding too wide. Don't extrude wider than 0,4 mm.

Do you guys know how to get rid of this problem (link below) when slicing? The surface is not seamless. I imported the STL file to Cura but it has these weird empty spaces. Here is the screenshot. I didn't notice this problem when printing nose/fuselage.

screenshot: snipboard.io/odfWz8.jpg

Do you guys know how to get rid of this problem (link below) when slicing? The surface is not seamless. I imported the STL file to Cura but it has these weird empty spaces. Here is the screenshot. I didn't notice this problem when printing nose/fuselage.
https://snipboard.io/LeUt9j.jpg

Which filament do you recommend?

2,5 mm or 3 mm self tapping is good. I use hex servo screws. Using just two screws is fine.

Hello, what screws should be used to screw fan intake to the fuselage-04? Also, I see there are three holes on the fan intake but only two on the fuselage-04? Should only two screws be used?

In simplify3D go to the Advanced tab in the print settings and select "Merge all outlines into a single model". This removes all internal structure and makes themempty solids. Use three or four perimeters to achieve 2 mm wall thickness.

hello.. would it be possible to give a solid file 0r stl file of the of the outer skin (2mm thick) only as we would like to make a mold for this model as the internal structures would be useless for us in the mold making process?

Rods are solid and tubes are hollow. You can off course use 4 mm tubes for the short joiner pieces. Try to figure out what the rods and tubes are there for any you will understand why they are as they are. Tubes are large diameter and hollow to save weight, or slide into each other, so outer and inner dimensions have to coincide.

And the 4x16 mm carbon rod? What should be the inner diameter? Should it be hollow or solid? (5mmx660 and 5mmx344 rods also)

yes (For all your questions)

Hello, where and what kind of rods should I order? I am a little confused by the dimensions. Everywhere I search I find: [External diameter]x[Internal diameter]x[Length]. Does 4x16 mm for fuselage mean 4mm external diameter and 16mm is the length? What is the internal diameter? And 9x11x576mm? Is external and internal diameter swapped? The same with the 11x13x576 carbon tubes.
Thanks for any help.

Glue in some wood blocks and you're set.

Hi, I was wondering how the flap servo is held ? Is it hot-glued ? There is a photo but I can't deduce from that.

Wo komme ich denn die cfk Bzw Carbon Rohre für die Tragflächen her ich finde im Netz keine 11x9 bzw 9x7 wer kann helfen? Wo bestellt man das?

I tryied the Nosegear04-Shockcap, but it broke when I screwed id, it was a little brittle. So, I decided to try to reduce the diameter of the metal shock cap with a drill press and a wood file as a poor man's lathe and it worked ! It was so satisfying when the shock fitted into Nosegear03 ! I think other people could like this trick...

Yes they changed it now I think. I haven't had that problem before.

Yes, it's there, thanks. It's too bad for the instructions to be in a .txt now.

Check if the new part is up for you now.

And the opening in Nosegear03 is 15 mm so it should fit after cleaning up the parts.IT should not be a loose fit. I will upload a 14,6 mm versio nfor you once an iccue with Cults is resolved. I am unable to edit the page now.

I measured both STL and Nosegear04 is 14.6mm and Nosegear04-Shockcap is 14.8mm diameter. If you can see the problem on your computer, can you re upload it please ?

Nosegear04-Shockcap is there to replace the too large aluminium shock cap. It's smaller than Nosegear03 by design, so it should fit in the hole with clean prints. Try cleaning up the hole in Nosegear03 with a file or sandpaper roll, or sand the outer surface of Nosegear04-shockcapulntil it will fit. If you open both parts in your slicer and move them over each other you will see that it fits.

Hi, what is the Nosegear04-shockcap for ? Because it's diameter is slightly bigger and doesn't fit into Nosegear03. Also, my shock caps are also a little bigger than Nosegear03, what can I do ? Here is the shock I bought: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/292727268666

Sorry for the inconvenience but I would like to know if you have any document on how to set up the project, I am a finalist student and I would like assembly this rc jet as a final project, as I did not find in the download documents anything apart from the files for 3D printing . If you can help me this is my email israsalvajesus@gmail.com. Thank you for your time.

I use 3-view drawings to aid with model my scale planes. You can find high res 3-view drawings of most planes online somewhere.

Awesome - I'm thinking about trying to do an Alphajet or a Viperjet (120mm seems to be the size I would want to go) - Not sure how or where to start with the design - I do have CAD experience so I guess I should look for some plans to downsize?

I want to make a Yak 15 next. The tail dragger landing gear is interesting.

Hello again, finally getting around to printing the model - have you considered other jets? Alphajet or anything else?

I also added 10 mm version of the nose and main gear parts in case you need them.

Thanks friend !
I've found it on yours files ! I gone made a second one ! :)

Maingear02-11mm is for 11 mm trunnions. Do you need 10 mm as well?

Hy plane fly's verry good.
Do you have files for the size opening 10 / 11 mm for retracks of JP ??

Reducing the layer to 0.16 mm eliminated the problem.

I use a layer height 0.2 mm

What layer height are you using when that happens? It slices normally in Simplify 3D for me at 0,12, 0,16, 0,2 and 0,24 mm

The new Canopy02 has another problem, from layer number 934, two peripheral layers will gradually appear instead of one. I don't know if this is a Simplify or .stl file problem.

Thanks for letting me know. I reuploaded a fixed Canopy02 now. You can redownload from your account.

Please check the Canopy02.stl file. It seems to be damaged. After slicing in Simplify3d, there are errors in it. Canopy01 and Canopy03 are OK with the same settings. I downloaded the file again for sure, the mistake is still there.

I order mine on Ebay or Amazon. Hobby King has almost all of them, if you can get a shipment from them.

It becomes a lot cheaper if you try to get the ones you need from a single seller. The shipping stacks up and becomes expensive.

Ebay sellers have often been the cheapest for me. Many sellers will create custom listings if you ask for 600 mm tubes for example.

This is reasonably priced. The seller has other dimensions too, in 500 mm, so he might be able to sell 576 mm or 600 mm long as well:
11x13x800mm:
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&toolid=11800&pub=5575353675&campid=5338226872&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2F113277356328

I know the tubes for this plane can be expensive so I'm trying to avoid these sizes in my other planes.

I was able to find them om Ebay, but quite expensive. Bur ordered now..

Regarding carbon tubes. Some of them are ok to get from elefun, but some tubes are hard to get and really expencive...
Any tips where to get them without paying a fortune?

I will start the build this weekend, and have got the standard rods so I can start building the fuselage.
All the other hardware (ball bearings, clevis...) are purchased.

Thanks. I'm happy to hear that.

Today I made the first flight with this model. It flies very well, I'm satisfied. Thank you, good job.

Go to your account, then click "Orders" and then click "View" next to the line with EL-39 and you come to a download page where you can redownload.

Yes I also was wondering if I could download the new improved wings without having to purchase the full file again but I do not see how it is possible

Du skal kunne laste ned på nytt.

Jeg ser du har endret wing02 og Wing03. Må jeg kjøpe på ny, eller kan jeg laste ned endringene fra Cults?

To get decent clarity print with high temperature and high layer height (0,24 mm leyers works well). Then coat both sides with two or more layers of clear spray paint.

Hello, I wanted to know what product you used to clarify the canopy

Hi, yes you are right, I had skirt setup. I did not know that this had any influence before slicing. After removing this it fits fine. Thanks for the tip.I have not started on the wings yet. I am almost finished with the fuselage. I did the fuselage and nose parts with a 0.6mm extruder then extensive sanding and removing the matting. I also used Esun PLA+. The results of the 0.6mm and PLA+ is very strong but I will be doing the wings and stabs with 0.4mm to minimize the weight. The 0.6mm printed at 0.37 height is very fast as well. One more question, what is your opinion on replacing the carbon fiber tubes with aluminum tubing?

Wing01 model dimensions are 293,35x296,32x179,53, so there should be plenty of extra room on a 300x300 bed. If you have a brin or additional stuff added turn it off.

Hi, I am truly impressed by your design and build. I am very excited to do this project and now with lockdown I have a lot of time on my hands. I have come across a problem with printing the first wing part. It does not fit. I have tried everything. I bought a 300x300x350mm printer because you recommended it but now the file will not fit. As the file is now for wing01 with flaps, I would need a bed of 400x400mm to get to work in Cura. If I separate the two wing parts and then remove a piece of the wing I could get it to work but I have no other solution, am I missing something?

If that's not the problem then maybe you can add a shim under the outer mounting points of the retract unit to angle the retract slightly.

hello i have printed the
drum brakes on the LE-39, now do not close the gates as they hit the servo

hello i have printed the
drum brakes on the LE-39, now do not close the gates as they hit the servo

I bought and downloaded this jet of yours several months ago, but came around to start printing it just a couple a weeks ago.

I have printed ten different 3DPrintLab planes and one Eclipson Blackwing, but this is by far the best designed and most thoroughly thought out 3D printed plane I have ever owned. Well worth the price (acutally - I think it's bargain).

Great design, great STL files, looks majestic (in my living room for now :-D - I'm about 80% done with printing, and haven't even started on electronics and motor).

Congrats!

Typically 5 minutes from takeoff to touch down. 8 minutes is possible.

Done! Just wait for a suitable weather for the flight. What is approximately 12S 5000 mAh flight time?

Do you have in mind the next model you are going to design ?, a beautiful plane would be the f100 for edf 120mm

hello I wanted to know how he was able to drill the motor shaft. It has some illustration.
I also wanted to know if you have thought about doing a 90mm edf design

They slide into the inner wing panel and glue in plac with CA.

how do you mount the maingear mounts?

I'd like to have this is 80/90mm EDF version, is that possible? If so, do you know what the scale down should be if I were to purchase?

Thank you. Not reinforcement, but servo holder will be required. I cannot find any mounting surface for so oriented servo. There are only sharp edges to which nothing can be screwed.

I added a photo of a installed flap servo. If the mounting surface is too thin becaseu fo too few layers you can glue on a reinforcement on the surface.

I'm sorry, but I need to make it clear. Is the servo bolted directly to the lower surface of the wing perpendicular to it? Elsewhere there is not enough material for the screws.
In "Mainwheel01-bb", the bearing size of 4x7x3 is probably given incorrectly. The slot is for 4x8x3 bearings.

The flap servos mount in the root end of Wing02-flap and don't need a hatch.

Is there a "servohatchflap" or something else? How is the flap servo mounted in the wing? Is photo possible?

Hi, alu tubes have not the same stability like carbon tubes. The risk to loose the wings is much greater.

hi great model busy printing it, but there's one thing can I use alu tubes 13mm instead of carbon? just for the wings?

Hello, as first I would like to say thank you for perfect model. I have just one question. I have printed front and rear Vstab but Vstab02 - Bottom rear part of vertical stabilizer looks higher then front part approx 3-4 mm. Is it for some reason or I did something wrong?

Thx!

That's great to hear. :)

I will try to use even dimensions in the future. Many people have requested this.

If i could say a wish, so please use even values mm for the big carbon tubes. The 9mm, 11mm and 13mm are extremely expensive.

Hello, yesterday the 23.10.2019 was my maiden fly, and it works great. only a little trim down and right. Then i fly full speed and 150m loop, immelman, rolls and .....
Perfekt handling from the first second! The landing with full flaps was even so wonderfull. I mixed 2mm elevator down to the full flaps. My cg is 93mm. The take off weight is 8050g. The fan is an 120mm Jetfan. The esc and motor are the like discription.

Thanks for the great constraction
Lars

OK, thank you

That part is intake01.stl

Printing Fuselage01. The "Canopy latch assembly" image shows the green part of the air inlet. It is not on the printed part. Is it printing separately? What is the file name? I couldn't find it. Thank you.
Karel

I used 0,2 mm for mine.

Hi
I bought your model today. What layer height do you use, 0.2 or 0.25 mm?
Karel

Ok thanks alot i will "save" the piece which ive already printed and print another one later.

You're right. I hadn't noticed. 3DS Max removed most of the internal when I created a new boolean modifier to cut out the latch. Thanks for letting me know. I reuploaded it.

Hi
Just a quick question regarding fuselage01-latch, in cura im missing the inner boxes in nose part, 3 on each side i think. Ive seen pics from you with them clearly visable. Can you verify the part being correct ?
Might be cura thats showing it wrong but dont think so. Ive printed it and it was no surprice it got a bit saggy without the inner boxes or beams,

All the best
Peter

I've printed two big parts of the plane and i must say realy nice job what you did ! Perfect design ! Thanks

greetz

If you downsixe it by 10% then the retract units, shocks carbon fiber tubes and rods won't fit so you'll have to figure out how to replace them. Should be doable but it will need some work.

The only parts you will not be able to print at 100% are Wing01-flap Fuselage01, Fuselage02 and Fuselage03. You can split them up in two pieces each in meshmixer for example which will work fine since you have a printer that's tall enough to print full height.

Hi, I have a printer with a build plate of x=300 y=220 z=300. Can I scale the parts down by 10% or is there any way of printing it at 100% with my build plate size?

man, is it possible to print it out on a 190mm by 190mm by 190mm printer?

Sorry. It requires a lot of design work to make that happen, and the largest parts will need to be cut into five to eight smaller pieces to fit on a smaller printer. Imagine a 30x30x30 cube being cut down to fit 200x200x200. It needs to be cut into eight pieces to fit the smaller size.

is it possible for you to do a download for me to split the larger parts to fit a printer with a 210mm by 210mm by 205mm thanks colin

Is it possible for you(the designer of the plane) to send me the STL files of the tail fin in a fewer number of pieces? please? Thanks

perdona aqui estan todos los archivos imprimibles para crear el avion

Wheel can be printed with maybe four perimeters and maybe 50% infill. Just make them strong.

For tires I use two perimeters and maybe 10% infill. It's very printer and filament dependent. I need a lot of top layers to close the tires.

How many perimeters did you us for the wheels and did you use any infill? Thanks

The canopyplugs are for fabricating plugs for vacuum forming canopy glass. They can also be used to print separate pieces for the glass so that you can make a cleaner looking printed glass than the one made along with the frame. You don't need to print them to finish the plane normally.

Do I need to print the "canopyplug" parts, and what are they for.

I haven't changed anything in a long time. You should get the newest revision if you download now.

There in my account have the option to recover the purchased files, are these files already up to date? Thanks in advance ... thanks !!!

Hello friend I did the previous purchase the updates, could you provide me the updated files?

One 0,4 mm perimeter and 0% infill for all the large parts.

Hi guys, I'm having trouble printing the fuselage. So i'm wondering what percent of infill did you use and how thick should I print the walls?

many thanks
i have find in your country good engine
Het Typhoon 800-68/685 on 12s (huge C) produced static thrust about 9,5 kg/ 6700W power
where i can buy it
georges

There is no separate intake. The intake is integrated in the fuselage and adds to the structural integrity of the plane.

dear
I have not found the file of the two input air in Y form to input air from outdoor to turbine
regards
georges

I have never flown turbines myself but I think it's possible if you can shield the plastic from the heat. There is a lot of room behind the cockpit for a custom tank or bladder tank.

Hi, I'm interested in your EL-39 rc plane. it is possible to adapt it for Gas turbine class 100?

Castle Creations 2028 probably won't fit because it's too big. 800kv is too high for 12S. Maybe with 8S, but the current draw will have to be 125-130 A to achieve the same power. It is also a much more expensive motor than the HET 800-73-590.

can you give me your opignon to introduce EDF castle 2028 in housing and fan 3d printing? in your L39 model ALBATROS
castle 2028 with manbaXL BEC
power 10ch
800kv max rpm 45000 length 113.2 mm diameter 57 mm axe 8mm lenght axe 30 mm
i want use blower for this motor it's with 2 fan lower motor temperature as much as 30 degrees
lenght 89mm width 60.5 mm height 57.5 mm
best regards
georges

I have some interesting news. I figured out why the part was buckling, in Simplify3d under the ADVANCED tab in the lower right corner I had MERGE all outlines into a single solid model. That caused me a lot of issues with the buckling. So after unselecting it I did quite a number of tests today with both printers. I confirmed somethings very interesting. First I confirmed that with 0 infill and 0.4 layer height the models printed can be used per the author. The part I printed ( a single horizontal stabilizer ) using the settings just mentioned in PLA weighed in on the scale at 40 grams. However I did not give up on PETG, instead I printed the same part with 0.2 layer height and 8% infill - the part is MORE rigid than the PLA version and weighs also 40 grams.... So that was a big WOW moment for me.... I currently have another idea for PETG zero infill with double outside parameters and 0.4 layer height. So I'm trying that out now, and should have a weight on it soon. There is ZERO flex printing PETG with 8% infill and it looks AMAZING. It looks right now, as though I will be going the PETG route for my build due to the better heat tolerances for outdoors, plus it looks SUPER cool... One thing I have noticed though doing this is I need to get TL Smoothers for my drivers to get rid of the salmon skin. It would look cool if I was using a wood filament, but the PETG black I'm testing with looks like Carbon Fiber and the salmon skin / wood grain effect doesn't suit the plane.... =) Sorry about all the posts, I just wanted to share my experimentation with the community

I didn't weigh the parts so I don't know what they all weighed. The airfrane should be printed with 0% infill. If you get buckling you need to work on your settings. Probably too hot nozzle or bed.

If you could provide the weights that would be great. I did quite a number of test prints, with PLA and PETG. I had to use 4% infill on PLA with 0.2 layer height to get a structure I was happy with flying as well as 1 outside perimeter. With PETG I used 1 outside perimeter and 10% infill , 0.2 layer height - provides a REALLY nice finish. Here is where the interesting thing comes in, both weighed in exactly at 44 grams. The PETG at 10% was VERY stiff and firm, no flex at all... This was using budget refill PETG and PLA so nothing fancy.

I thought it was good results, I wish I knew the weights in grams on all the parts - it would make it easy to know how the infill affects overall weight, I can than scale it up to see how much the model will weigh in the end with this weight for PETG.

Right now, if the weight is on spec I will go with PETG for most of the build , the look of it as well as the stiffness I have achieved in the structure I am now happy with it. I am thinking about going to 8% infill for a test as well. I was not happy with 5% infill there was too much flex. I think 8% would be the lowest I would go with this part.

I printed only one side of part Hstab02.stl - I would be curious to know that one in grams right now to see if I'm on track. If the author could provide the weights to the parts that would be helpful. If the part stl file has two pieces, left and right side, if the weight could be broken down for one side, that would be also a HUGE help.

I am happy to provide my data to the community to help people decide if they want to print in PETG vs PLA as well. I will do up a video to show the group tomorrow and place it on youtube to show the difference in flex from 5% PETG, 10% PETG and if I print another this evening 8% PETG

I have PLA 4% here as well. I am not doing the one perimeter vase mode, the buckling in the stabilizer was horrible, no much support there for my piece of mind.

I can't find the weights in grams for each of your components - I thought I saw it somewhere, can you provide the link please...

Just finished single perimeter wall on PETG and PLA - PETG was way way way too flexible with single wall, the PLA was better however both prints of the same piece (horizaontal stabilizer) bowed inwards due to the fact there was no infill, there was nothing there to support the piece since it was printed basically in vase mode. Both the PETH and PLA did this, with PETG doing in more than PLA. I am currently redoing the print with 5% infill on both PETG and PLA. These tests today should show me which filament I will use for the build. I am still hoping for good things with PETG, I haven't given up, I will weigh the parts as well to get an idea how much they weigh vs the authors weight with the infill added to both types of filament.

I just started printing PETG on one printer and PLA on another, using the horizontal stabilizer as a test part (fairly small part) will show the difference to me in the materials for usage. I did a test print last night , but after checking my details I say it was .2 layer height not .4 so maybe that accounts for the flex and weakness in both prints I am seeing this morning, so I reset the print to go at .4 for both of them, I also changed top and bottom layers to 4 instead of 1, with a single perimeter wall in simplify3d. I should see my next test this afternoon. I needed to do this before I commit to buying many rolls of either pla or petg. Right not, things are not looking good for PETG. We shall see soon...

it's easy no problem for me to separe 2 parts only one
for fuselage 05 part i think good filament for resist in hight temperature is polycarbonate filament
i want tested this solution

Click "mesh" and then "Separate Connected Surfaces" in Simplify 3D. IT will split the parts up in all its unconnected pieces and you can move them around. Make sure that any internal objects that are separated also are moved when the main object is removed, as it will separate pockets as individual parts.

I made the files like they are to reduce confusion and keep the file count down. I arranged them in the same groups that I use to print myself.

I purchased the STL's but I'm noticing that all the stls when you open them up have two parts for example with the wings, it would be big benefit to have singular parts to make it easier to print. Can you do this as I cannot remove one from the slicer (Simplify3d), when I select either part and press delete it removes both...

i have transformed stl in G code with simplify 3D filament 6 kg and 620h print time
it's first result we can optimise certain part
time for print is not a problem for me i have 8 printer bigest is 600x600x600 other 320x320x400......

Four kg should be enough if all goes perfectly.

How many spools of PLA ( estimated if you don't remember ) did it take to print this aircraft ? Just purchased the stl's and I need to order spools for the build.

I haven't used a turbine in mine so I don't know what the xhaust temp would be. You can see many videos of my plane that demonstrate how the landing gear holds up to hard landings.

Hello
I am preparing the 3d printing of your L-39 model
can help me find a supplier of carbon tubes
do you know the temperature at the turbine outlet and its maximum operating temperature?
see the series of photos
https://www.turbosquid.com/3d-models/3d-aero-vodochody-l-39-albatros-model/761381#
I have some concerns about the performance of landing gear in 3d printing
I'm looking to equip the jet with a metal landing gear
thank you
kind regards
Georges

Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator

Welcome !
My question would be how much 3D printing would cost me home. I have a CR10 S5 printer and I would like to print this model. But I do not know how much it would cost me and what material I would use because I want to try 3D printing for the first time. I like Challenges and Airplanes.
If you would please and help me in this I would thank you.
Welcome to Csanád Gál

Check the files for updates and you will find a new wheel with ball bearing pockets. :)

New update: test taxi runs have gone great! Found a little flaw. Going back and forth a few times at high speed, heats up the axle and melts the main strut after some long runs down the runway. I’ve fixed it since and finishing the gyro setup. Hopefully next week I can maiden it.

BONJOUR J AI UN PROBLEME D IMPRESSION POUR LES AILES SUR CURA LES AILES NE SONT PAS PLEINES SI VOUS ME DONNER VOTRE EMAIL JE PEUX VOUS ENVOYER UNE CAPTURE D ECRAN MERCI

BONJOUR
OU SE TROUVE LE FICHIER POUR POUVOIR FIXER LE TRAIN AVANT SUR LE NEZ DE L'AVION ???
MERCI

good afternoon I wanted to buy the files for the L39 my printer has an area of ​​210 * 210 * 205, can scale to this dimension, or sell the cad, wanted to use a 90mm EDF.

It's 1:6,5 size. I cut my own paint stencils with a vinyl cutter.

Got the retracts all working. I'm looking at some graphics, but what size is this? 1/6? I thought I saw on another site as 1/6.5. Thanks for the help as usual!

Ok, I'll try it out. I'm using a 6.6V LiFe. It's getting close!lol

No they don't need a sequencer. What voltage did you try them with? Try spinning the shaft a little first to bring the unit out from the end point.

One of mine had a tendency to stick on one end because the magnet in the moving beam was too far away from the circuit board. I pushed the magnet out and that fixed it. It shouldn't be necessary though.

Hey bud, I bought 3 of those retracts from HK that you linked too, and I tried to use a servo tester on them. They didn't work. Are these the type of servoless retracts that need a sequencer to work? I'm stumped. I even tried using three different servo testers.

Maingeardoor01 contains both parts attached to the main gear. Maingear02 and 03 are the inboard doors.

what's the name of the stl file that has the main gear covers? Not the main gear doors. Thanks!!

Everything is all printed up! Now just getting in the parts to finish it. All the guys fly at my field are turbines and 90mm this size, and no one has an extra 120mm edf laying around!!lol For now, I'm saving for Jetfan 1120 pro and the HET 800-72-590. At least that is the plan!!lol Servos are coming in soon as well as, the carbon fiber rods. Also have to wait for the servoless retracts to come in. Damn! So much stuff to buy, no time to wait!!lol

Thanks as always!

Larry

They should fit in the bay. The width should only just fit but there should be plenty of room for the diameter.

The 3D printed tires on my EL-39 are quite hard. It's a heavy plane.

I've tried using flexible filament before, but in the humidity of South Florida near Ft. Lauderdale, you can't get the same flex as you could being up north! To much moisture, unless you have a perfectly controlled room an temperature. I just ordered the same size from Tower hobbies. Robert wheels model ROBQ1534. They sure look like the same size!!lol

If you were going to choose a robart main wheel, which would you use? It's my only hiccup now.

It's possible to make Robart 669L and 669R spring struts fit. They need to be cut and bent to fit. Other struts may fit, but I don't have any to test with. The printed struts are very strong. Check out my videos. I make a few very hard landings and haven't had any failure of the main landing gear yet. The nose gear is more fragile, but should never be the first thing to hit the ground.

The nose wheel is 60x20 mm. That's the max size that will fit.

The main wheels are 85x22 mm. The biggest you can fit is ~85x24 mm

What size is the nose wheel, if I were to buy one, and what size main gear wheel?

It doesn't go inside Nosegear04. It goes inside Nosegear03, and then Nosegear04 goes inside 03 on top of the shock. I attached a photo in the Thread on RCGroups.

The hex nut is the same as the outside width of that cylinder it needs to go inside. I must be missing the step. The graphic shows how it goes together, but what does you hex nut look like? Is it in a file I'm missing?

I do have a question regarding the nose gear. I have printed most of the pieces for it and I'm not sure if the shock absorber goes into nosegear04. Because the shock you told me to get, doesn't fit in it. Any pictures, not the computer pic, that shows you doing it would be great!!!

Thanks again!

Larry

I added two photos now showing the inside of the nose and main wheel wells wher ethe door servos reside.

You know, after I wrote that, I thought that was what they were for!! Not technical!!!lol Are there any pics of how you attached the servo to the nose gear door/ main gear doors? And how you put the servo in and how the retract looks, up? Any pic that is a close up of major parts, would be perfect! Also, if I can't print the landing gear to be good enough, like yours, do you know of any links for ones that might be bought online? Thanks again!
Awesome jet!!!

Those are there to support the center piece as it's built from a tiny surface up. I could not get it to print without them. Just snip them off after printing that section. They will leave minimal spots to clean up.

Ask away. There are probably more people wondering about things, and I don't know about all the things that need explaining.

I am following that thread! Pictures are a big help for me. Not a very "technical" person. I've adopted the "keep it simple" approach!!LOL Now one more question and I'll be out of your hair, what are those 6 ovals, almost floating, in the air intakes? Did I skip something in the thread regarding them?
Thanks for all the help!

Thank you, sir! Now, if I can figure out your nose gear door, I should be ok.

Thanks again!
Larry

That part is called Vstab05.STL

Thanks for the response! What is the name of the file for the top piece of the tail? In your picture above, it is the part above the purple section. I have the two tan/brown pieces, the red and the purple, but not the pink top. Sorry to be a pain!!

Hi, Larry. There is no third part of the rudder. It got added to the list of parts by mistake. :) The rudder only has two parts.

Awesome L-39! I bought the files, but it seems to be missing the rudder03 in the downloaded files. Last part I need to finish the tail!! Any way I can get that one?
Thanks!
Larry

Hi, really nice model and good idea. I have buy your plans, but it's a little difficult how to assembly, specially the nose gear. Could you upload one video explaning how it is the correct way to assembly and especially how work the nose gear steering system? I have to buy 3 units of 90 degree retract servos, with no integrated steering, right?

Thanks

Sergio

Wow.

Click download at the top.


Vous souhaitez soutenir Cults ?

Vous aimez Cults et vous avez envie de nous aider à continuer l’aventure en toute indépendance ? Sachez que nous sommes une petite équipe de 3 personnes et qu’il est donc très simple de nous soutenir pour maintenir l’activité et créer les futurs développements. Voici 4 solutions accessibles à tous :

  • PUBLICITÉ : Désactivez votre bloqueur de publicité AdBlock et cliquez sur nos bannières publicitaires.

  • AFFILIATION : Réalisez vos achats en ligne en cliquant sur nos liens affiliés ici Amazon, Gearbest ou Aliexpress.

  • DON : Si vous voulez, vous avez la possibilité de nous faire un don via PayPal ici.

  • BOUCHE À OREILLE : Invitez vos amis à venir découvrir le site et les magnifiques fichiers 3D partagés par la communauté !