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EL-39 - Chorro RC a media escala para EDF de 120 mm

Descripción del modelo 3D

El humano no está incluido.


Especificaciones:

Longitud: 1858,5 mm

Envergadura: 1451 mm

Peso total: 7,2 kg (prototipo #1), 8 kg (prototipo #2), 7,5 kg (prototipo #3)

CG: 83-103 mm del borde de ataque en la unión del ala con el engranaje en la posición de arriba. Hay una protuberancia en la parte superior de cada superficie del ala para indicar la posición segura de 83 mm/25% MAC. El engranaje hacia arriba o hacia abajo debería hacer poca diferencia debido al bajo peso del engranaje de la nariz. El prototipo se ha acoplado con el CG a aproximadamente 90 mm. El CG de 103 mm ha sido probado y vuela muy bien.


Lanzamientos de control iniciales:

Ascensor: Subir 18 mm / Bajar 16 mm

Alerones: Arriba 20 mm / Abajo 15 mm

Timón: 15mm / 15 mm

Usar 30% de exponencial en todas las superficies para reducir la sensibilidad del centro.


Figura piloto apropiada:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2970724


Video del prototipo sin solapas:

https://youtu.be/znbaBhUY25k

Vídeos de la doncella:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9tShEHO5M5s

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gp0sF1WKZ7w

Recopilación de vuelos y aterrizajes de alta velocidad:

https://youtu.be/KzPiHn8WywE

Videos de a bordo:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uDD7gKV2YSY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_93jys9oADY

Varios videos de vuelo:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VcE9QgbNThE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jZJCof5v06M

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DpYUfhk2Kec

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E4S3TekVd6I

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JWw4-YrTFSI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fBd4eTZwPW4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LnProCnHUOs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1EPln7NoYhA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=67ruv_F0Jjk


Advertencias de seguridad:

-El EDF es un ensamblaje muy cargado a alta velocidad, así que es importante que sepas lo que estás haciendo.

-Asegúrate de que la integridad del impulsor impreso es buena antes de intentar ejecutarlo.

-Siempre use gafas protectoras cuando pruebe el ventilador. Siempre proteja sus ojos.

-No hagas funcionar el ventilador a alta potencia mientras lo tengas en la mano.

-Mantenga sus manos y cualquier objeto suelto lejos del ventilador cuando corra. Te destrozará los dedos si son aspirados, y la fuerza de succión es muy fuerte. Si algo es aspirado, puede dañar el impulsor y potencialmente romperse, arrojando los desechos sueltos.


Construye notas. La mayor parte del ensamblaje del avión es bastante autoexplicativo cuando tienes las partes frente a ti, pero aquí hay algunas explicaciones. Lea con atención:

Se requiere un área de impresión de 300x300 mm para las partes más grandes. Muchas partes caben en una cama de 200x200, y algunas incluso en impresoras más pequeñas. Yo uso una JGAurora A5 con controladores de paso TMC2100 para las piezas grandes y una Wanhao Duplicator i3 para las piezas más pequeñas.

Se debe usar PLA de buena calidad para todo el modelo. Recomiendo PrimaValue PLA: https://www.e3printable.no/nettbutikk-norge/14-pla/539-pla-175mm-1kg-lys-graa/

Los neumáticos principales, la rueda delantera, la goma del ventilador y los sellos del ventilador deben imprimirse con TPU u otros filamentos de goma.

Recomiendo añadir frenos de tambor. Sólo añaden ~14 g al peso total del avión y funcionan extremadamente bien. He subido los frenos de tambor personalizados para el avión en un listado gratuito diferente:

https://cults3d.com/es/modelo-3d/variado/el-39-drum-brakes

El fuselaje 01-07 debe ser pegado con CA e indexado con cuatro piezas de varilla de carbono de 4x16 mm entre cada articulación. Yo uso CA grueso y aplico el kicker en el borde después de la unión. Las secciones del fuselaje pueden aligerarse quitando la mayor parte de las caras de acoplamiento de cada pieza. El ejemplo de abajo muestra la misma pieza aligerada y no aligerada. Ahorró 30 g sólo en esta parte, lo que suma mucho peso en el avión terminado. Asegúrate de dejar un borde decente para que el pegamento se adhiera al acoplar las piezas, y asegúrate de que las diferentes aberturas de la cara estén conectadas por un material sólido cuando las aligeres:

https://files.cults3d.com/uploaders/12943812/illustration-file/1cab1370-21a0-4b7a-a526-3bceacc7def1/EL-39-19.jpg

El Fuselaje 02 y el Fuselaje 03 tienen pequeñas bisagras para las puertas principales de engranajes. Éstas deben ser taladradas o revisadas con alambre antes de ser pegadas, porque es difícil de hacer después del montaje. Si no las revisaste de antemano y están apretadas, puedes usar una cuerda de piano de 1 mm en un taladro y usarla como una broca flexible para abrirlas.

La Nose03-Nose05 también debe ser pegada con CA y varillas de carbono de 4x16 mm como las piezas del fuselaje. Nose01 y Nose02 deben ser instalados con tornillos M3. Estos dos deben ser reemplazables para ayudar a acceder a los componentes de la nariz y para reemplazarlos en caso de daño.

El Wing01, o Wing01-flap si se quieren alerones, debe ser pegado al fuselaje con los tubos de carbono 9x11x576 y 11x13x576. Los paneles exteriores del ala se encajan en estos tubos de carbono. Esto se hace para que el avión pueda estar sobre las ruedas durante el servicio, el almacenamiento y el transporte. Las alas 02 y 03 fueron actualizadas con una mejor estructura interna el 07.04.2020.

Los estabilizadores horizontales deben unirse y conectarse con el fuselaje con varillas o tubos de carbono de 5mmx660 mm y 5mmx344. Pegar los tubos en el estabilizador por un lado y usar tornillos en el otro estabilizador para mantenerlo todo unido. De esta manera se pueden quitar para acceder a los servos.

Todas las superficies de control utilizan varillas de carbono de 3 mm y rodamientos de bolas de 3x6x2,5 mm como bisagras. Utilice dos arandelas de bloqueo divididas de 3 mm entre la superficie de control y los cojinetes para centrar cada superficie de control, como se muestra en una foto de la ilustración. Colóquelas en las ranuras que mantienen centrada la superficie de control. La parte inferior de algunas superficies de control tiene pequeños agujeros para indicar cuál es el lado de la parte inferior, y para permitir que se aplique pegamento a la varilla de la bisagra a través de ellos.

https://files.cults3d.com/uploaders/12943812/illustration-file/c33e3160-fafe-462e-aa9f-db89117fb76d/DSCN1776_large.JPG

Los amortiguadores deben ser modificados con los pistones impresos en 3D Shockpiston02 y el aceite diferencial 10000CST para amortiguar el avión pesado en el impacto del aterrizaje. Los muelles pueden ser estirados ligeramente para aumentar la tensión. Deben ser muy pesados para comprimirlos. El Shockpiston01 puede utilizarse con un aceite más espeso que el 10000CST o para afinarlo si se necesita una amortiguación más ligera. También se debe instalar una junta tórica o un ojal de goma en el eje expuesto entre la carcasa y la copa inferior para que funcione como un tope final suave. El engranaje principal probablemente tocará fondo cuando se siente en el suelo, pero se estirará en el despegue y estará listo para absorber el impacto del aterrizaje cuando se aterrice. Los amortiguadores de los aviones no están diseñados para dar una buena calidad de conducción, sino para absorber el enorme impacto del aterrizaje.

Pegue los tubos de carbono de 11x51 mm en el Maingear02 y luego fije el extremo expuesto del tubo de carbono en las unidades retráctiles. Para instalar Maingear01 a Maingear02 use dos rodamientos de bolas de 3x6x2,5 mm y dos tornillos M3x10 mm:

https://files.cults3d.com/uploaders/12943812/illustration-file/4f48d3d9-da13-4dc0-a113-396b8d95ad5f/EL-39-11_large.jpg

Ensamble el engranaje de la nariz como se muestra en la ilustración:

https://files.cults3d.com/uploaders/12943812/illustration-file/59eb396a-f11b-4fa4-bcf0-0b2b4e6b7e3f/EL-39-18.jpg

Los tubos de carbono del engranaje principal y del engranaje de la nariz (10, 11 o 12 mm) podrían necesitar ser duplicados con un segundo tubo interno para aumentar el grosor de la pared donde entran en las unidades de retracción. La resistencia de estos tubos variará de un fabricante a otro y algunos necesitan ser duplicados para ser lo suficientemente fuertes para aterrizajes muy duros. Ninguno de los míos ha requerido esto, pero uno se ha roto por un constructor.

Lo ideal es que el ESC se siente dentro del compartimiento sobre el conducto de entrada, con cables que vayan hacia el receptor y la batería. Esto asegura una refrigeración adecuada. Los condensadores adicionales deben ser instalados de tal manera que encajen en el tubo de cable dentro del fuselaje.

Si se utiliza el ventilador imprimible 3D, el motor HET recomendado también debería utilizarse con el disipador. El eje del motor debe tener un agujero perforado a la mitad para uno de los tornillos de sujeción del impulsor de M3-16 mm, porque el calor absorbido por el motor puede hacer que el impulsor se afloje ligeramente si sólo se utiliza un punto plano. El ventilador prototipo tira de 83 A a toda velocidad con una carga fresca de 12S cuando se instala en el avión. Recomiendo que el impulsor PLA no se use para ambientes extremadamente calientes. Los materiales más calientes pueden funcionar, pero eso es más experimental que usar PLA, y hay otras propiedades que entran en juego, como la elasticidad.

Así es como se abren las bisagras de las puertas de las ruedas. Utiliza el mismo cable de piano que usas como pasadores de bisagra para abrir los agujeros con un taladro. Corta el extremo del alambre para darle una forma de pala plana antes de perforar para facilitar la perforación:

https://files.cults3d.com/uploaders/12943812/illustration-file/3f7ac51a-74e2-4ef9-9751-bc8f90bd717f/EL-39-81.jpg

Droptank01 es un tanque. Los agujeros de alineación están diseñados para un filamento de 1,75 mm y están desplazados para que las piezas sólo se unan en un sentido. El Droptank02 es el soporte de montaje entre los tanques y los soportes de las armas de ala. El alto va en la parte delantera y el bajo en la parte trasera. Pégalos al tanque y asegúralo al ala con tornillos M3.

Cierre del dosel: Hacer el pestillo con trozos de 50 mm de largo de tubo de 3x5 y varilla de 3 mm. Usar un muelle de 4x0,3x20 mm y un tornillo M3 como asa en la parte superior según la ilustración: https://files.cults3d.com/uploaders/12943812/illustration-file/5b7c37a2-fb2e-4132-8198-a63abb9d6e14/EL-39-84.jpg Cuando se usa un pestillo en la parte trasera de la marquesina, pegar la Canopy01 en su lugar en el fuselaje, y añadir un pasador en la parte superior de la Canopy02 para que se encaje en la Canopy01 y luego se bloquee en su lugar en la parte trasera por el pestillo. Añade un agujero en la parte trasera de la Canopy03 para el pestillo.


Lista de partes. Algunos enlaces tienen mi código de afiliado, que me ayuda a pagar el desarrollo de futuros proyectos:

3x Amortiguadores: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&toolid=11800&pub=5575353675&campid=5338226872&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2F102004-Shock-Absorber-HSP-RC-On-Road-Car-02002-02175-Upgrade-Part-122004-1-10%2F264063176330

Muelles de 1,8x18x35 mm para el engranaje principal:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&toolid=11800&pub=5575353675&campid=5338226872&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2F1-8mm-Wire-Diameter-Compression-Springs-Various-Sizes-You-Choose-Size-Length%2F183479884609

10000 CST diff oil para los choques: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&toolid=11800&pub=5575353675&campid=5338226872&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FTeam-Associated-Silicone-Diff-Oils-various-cst%2F153641530179

Tornillos de M2x16 mm para las ruedas.

Surtido de tornillos M3, cabeza de tapa y cabeza avellanada. De 8 a 35 mm de longitud.

Surtido de tornillos M3.

Tornillos M4x38 mm de cabeza hueca para los ejes de las ruedas principales.

#Tornillos autoperforantes avellanados número 1 para las servo escotillas.

Conectores de varillas de empuje ajustables para las puertas de las ruedas:

https://www.banggood.com/50X-2_1mm-Adjustable-Pushrod-Connectors-Linkage-Stoppers-For-RC-Airplane-p-1121137.html?p=HD240528697332015103&custlinkid=819163

24 rodamientos de bolas de 3x6x2,5 mm para las bisagras de la superficie de control y las bisagras del tren de aterrizaje:

4 rodamientos de bolas de 4x8x3 mm para las ruedas principales:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&toolid=11800&pub=5575353675&campid=5338226872&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FMR-Series-MR52zz-to-MR148zz-Miniature-Metal-Sealed-Deep-Groove-Ball-Bearings%2F262428424598

2x 12x18x4 mm rodamientos de bolas para la dirección de la rueda delantera:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&toolid=11800&pub=5575353675&campid=5338226872&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2F6701ZZ-6701-Metal-Shielded-Ball-Bearings-Miniature-Bearings-12x18x4mm-x-5PCS%2F151958105165

7x horquillas de Nylon para las superficies de control:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&toolid=11800&pub=5575353675&campid=5338226872&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2F5PCS-3mm-Dia-Hex-Hole-Clip-Type-Black-Nylon-Clevis-for-RC-Helicopter%2F392280302050

7x M2 varillas de metal para las superficies de control:

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/metal-push-rods-m2xl300mm-2pcs-set.html?affiliate_code=BSFWYBUNYWDKXJN&_asc=2387814028

7x Horquillas de enlace rápido para los servos de control:

https://www.banggood.com/10Pcs-DIY-L-Type-Nylon-Clevis-Keeper-Clip-for-RC-Models-p-1083355.html?p=HD240528697332015103&custlinkid=819179

Alambre de piano de 1,5 mm para los enlaces de las puertas y las bisagras.

1x 5mmx500 mm barra de carbono para puñaladas horizontales (barra trasera)

1x 5mmx344 mm barra de carbono para puñaladas horizontales (barra frontal)

Surtido de longitudes cortas de varilla de carbono o bambú de 4 mm para indexar cuando se unen las piezas del fuselaje.

2x 3x225 mm barras de carbono para bisagras de alerones

2 barras de carbono de 3x340 mm para las bisagras de las aletas

2 barras de carbono de 3x286 mm para las bisagras de los ascensores

1x 3x276 mm varilla de carbono para la bisagra del timón

2 tubos de carbono de 6x8x400 mm con punta de ala

2 tubos de ala de carbono de 7x9x440 mm.

1 tubo de carbono de 9x11x32 mm para el puntal del engranaje de la nariz

2 tubos de carbono de 9x11x51 mm para los puntales del engranaje principal

2 tubos de carbono de 9x11x440 mm con alas de carbono

1x 9x11x576 mm tubo de ala de carbono

1x 11x13x576 mm tubo de ala de carbono

Electrónica:

-12S 5000+mAh lipos. Recomiendo al menos conectores XT90.

-7x Control de servos de superficie. El prototipo vuela con estos: https://www.banggood.com/Corona-CS238MG-Thin-Metal-Wing-Analog-Servo-p-1049129.html?p=HD240528697332015103&custlinkid=367343

Otros servos con un perfil de caja de menos de 30x15 mm también caben.

-Servo inversor opcional si no puedes invertir una solapa y un servo de la puerta de cambio por otros medios:

https://www.banggood.com/2pcs-3_6V-24V-Servo-Signal-Reverse-Support-High-Voltage-Compatible-for-All-Servo-p-1287114.html?p=HD240528697332015103&custlinkid=819184

-4x Servos de la puerta del tren de aterrizaje y servos de dirección del tren delantero: se recomiendan servos de 9-12 g con engranaje metálico. No los servos SG92R ya que se vuelven locos cuando se usan con el secuenciador.

-ESC: 12S 120A+ ESC. Recomiendo el Castle Creations Talon 120 porque tiene un fuerte BEC integrado. http://www.castlecreations.com/en/talon-hv/talon-hv-120-esc-010-0131-00

El prototipo vuela con un Aerostar Advance 120A: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/aerostar-advance-120a-esc-opto.html?affiliate_code=BSFWYBUNYWDKXJN&_asc=5830570510

-Condensadores adicionales con baja ESR para la ESC debido a los cables extendidos de la batería. Al menos 660uF de capacitancia extra total: https://www.digikey.no/product-detail/en/63ZLH470MEFC12.5X25/1189-3033-ND/3564146

-Secuenciador de puerta y retracción: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-smart-retractable-landing-gear-gear-and-door-sequencer.html?affiliate_code=BSFWYBUNYWDKXJN&_asc=4305082623

Se requieren retracciones operativas de -90° hacia afuera con una abrazadera de puntal de 11 mm para usar la suspensión de eslabones de arrastre imprimible en 3D. Yo utilizo esto (podría requerir algún ajuste para funcionar perfectamente): https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-90-degree-all-metal-servoless-outward-operating-retract-unit-90-size-1pc.html?affiliate_code=BSFWYBUNYWDKXJN&_asc=9928784058

Estos son mejores y no requieren un secuenciador separado. Elija V2 y hacia afuera:

http://www.hobby-china.com/alloy-electric-retracts-set-3pcs-and-control-box-for-7-8kg-rc-plane-model.html

Otras unidades de retracción encajarán. El espacio para los engranajes y las ruedas es amplio. La opción de mayor calidad es probablemente el Electron ER-30evo, que debería caber con alguna adaptación:

https://www.electron-retracts.com/er-30evo/

-Motor para el EDF imprimible:

https://www.effluxrc.com/HET-800-73-590-Motor-8mm-shaft-HET800-73-590-8MM.htm

https://www.turbines-rc.com/en/50-56mm-brushless-motors/285-typhoon-het-edf-800-73-motor-50mm-590kv.html

Disipador térmico:

https://www.effluxrc.com/Jetfan-120-1-Heat-Sink-for-50mm-Motors-JF50mmHS-1.htm

https://www.turbines-rc.com/en/heat-sink/1075-heat-sink-75mm-for-50mm-motor-and-ejets-jetfan-120-edf.html


Descripciones de los nombres de los archivos:

Alerones01 - Alerones.

Airbrake01 - Formas de frenos de aire falsos para la parte inferior del fuselaje.

Canopy01 - Parte delantera del dosel.

Canopy02 - Parte media del dosel.

Canopy02 - Parte trasera del dosel.

Canopylatch01 - Escala no funcional de la manija exterior para abrir las cubiertas.

Canopyplug01 - Tapón para formar el vacío en la parte delantera del dosel.

Canopyplug02 - Tapón para el vacío que forma la parte media del dosel.

Canopyplug03 - Tapón para el vacío que forma la parte trasera del dosel.

Droptank01 - Tanques de caída.

Droptank02 - Soportes de montaje del tanque de caída.

EDF-housing01 - EDF ousing and motor mount.

Impulsor EDF01 - Impulsor EDF de 11 palas para un eje de 8 mm.

EDF-tailcone01 - Cono de cola para la parte trasera de un motor HET 800.

Ascensor01 - Partes internas del ascensor.

Ascensor02 - Partes medias del ascensor.

Ascensor03 - Partes exteriores del ascensor.

Fanintake01 - Tubo para guiar el aire del conducto del fuselaje hacia la carcasa del EDF.

Fanrail01 - Rieles de montaje para el compartimiento del motor. Agujeros prefabricados para el ventilador imprimible EDF y Changesun de 120 mm con tuercas M3 cautivas.

Fanrubber01 - Ojales de montaje para la instalación de EDF en los fanrails.

Fanseal01 - Sello flexible entre la parte delantera del EDF y la parte trasera del Fanintake01.

Fanseal02 - Conducto flexible entre la parte trasera del EDF y el tubo de escape del fuselaje.

Flap01 - Partes de la solapa interior.

Flap02 - Partes de la aleta exterior.

Flap03 - Soportes de bisagra para las solapas. Encaja en el ala 02-flap.

Flapfairing01 - Tonto carenado de flap interno para la parte superior del ala.

Flapfairing02 - Carenado de flap externo falso para la parte superior del ala.

Flares01 - Aperturas de descarga de bengalas para la parte inferior derecha del fuselaje trasero. Busca fotos de la verdadera L-39 para encontrarla.

Fuselage01-07 - Secciones del fuselaje, de adelante hacia atrás.

Fuselage01-Perilla - Parte del fuselaje con canal integrado para una perilla de la cubierta.

Fuselaje03-bigESC - Sección del fuselaje con un canal de ESC más grande para ESCs más grandes que las normales.

Fuselaje04-bigESC - Sección con un canal de ESC más grande para ESCs más grandes que las normales.

Reposacabezas01 - Reposacabezas de piloto en caso de poblar el dosel con pilotos.

Hstab01 - Partes internas del estabilizador horizontal.

Hstab01 - Partes exteriores del estabilizador horizontal.

Hstab02 - Puntas del estabilizador horizontal.

Intake01 - Labios para las tomas de aire. Separados para simplificar la pintura en un color separado.

L-59-canopy02 - Parte media del dosel del estilo L-59.

L-59-canopy03 - Parte trasera del dosel del estilo L-59.

Maingear01 - El ensamblaje del eslabón de arrastre del tren de aterrizaje principal.

Maingear02-10mm - La pata del tren de aterrizaje principal para el tubo de carbono de 10 mm.

Maingear02-11mm - La pata del tren de aterrizaje principal para el tubo de carbono de 11 mm (Hobbyking se retrae).

Maingear02-12mm - La pata del tren de aterrizaje principal para el tubo de carbono de 12 mm (JP Hobby se retrae).

Maingeardoor01 - Puertas del tren de aterrizaje principal para acoplarse al tren de aterrizaje principal.

Maingeardoor02 - Puerta principal de engranaje interior izquierda.

Maingeardoor03 - Puerta de engranaje principal interior derecha.

Maingeardoor04 - Cuernos para los enlaces para cerrar Maingeardoor02 y 03.

Maingearmounts01-Hobbykingretrae - Vigas de montaje de alta resistencia para Hobbyking se retrae en las partes internas del ala.

Maingearmounts02-JPretracts - Vigas de montaje de alta resistencia para JP se retrae en las partes internas del ala. Cara de montaje de 3mm más profunda.

Maintire01 - Neumático del tren de aterrizaje principal.

Rueda principal01 - Rueda del tren de aterrizaje principal.

Rueda principal01-bb - Rueda del tren de aterrizaje principal para rodamientos de bolas 4x8x3.

Escotilla del motor01 - Escotilla para el compartimiento EDF en el fuselaje.

Nose01 - Punta de la nariz.

Nariz02 - Parte de la nariz y compartimento del tren de aterrizaje de la nariz.

Nose03-05 - Partes de la nariz bajo el área de la cabina.

Nosegear01-03 - Ensamblaje del eslabón de arrastre del engranaje de la nariz.

Nosegear04 - Parte interna del puntal del engranaje de la nariz.

Tapón de la nariz04 - Algunos de los amortiguadores chinos baratos tienen un tapón demasiado ancho para la nariz, y esta parte lo hace todo de una sola pieza y reemplaza la parte superior del amortiguador.

Nosegear05 - Tapa del cojinete superior del puntal del engranaje de la nariz.

Nosegear06-10mm - Montaje y viga de dirección para el engranaje de la nariz para el tubo de carbono de 10 mm.

Nosegear06-11mm - Montaje y viga de dirección para el engranaje de la nariz para el tubo de carbono de 11 mm (Hobbyking se retrae).

Nosegear06-12mm - Montaje y viga de dirección para el equipo de nariz para el tubo de carbono de 12 mm (JP Hobby se retrae).

Nosegear07 - Ojo de la dirección del engranaje de la nariz.

Nosegeardoor01 - Puerta del engranaje de la nariz.

Puerta de la nariz02 - Bisagras de la puerta del engranaje de la nariz con agujero de enlace integrado.

Nosetire01 - Neumático del tren de aterrizaje.

Rueda de la nariz01 - Rueda del tren de aterrizaje de la nariz sin cojinetes.

Rueda de nariz01-bb - Rueda del tren de aterrizaje de nariz para rodamientos de bolas de 3x6x2,5 mm.

Pitot01 - Tubos de Pitot para las alas.

Retractcover01 - Cubiertas para las bahías de retracción del equipo principal.

Timón01 - Parte inferior del timón.

Timón02 - Parte superior del timón.

Valla del timón01 - Placa que va debajo de la parte superior del estabilizador vertical, sobre el timón. No todos los L-39 tienen esto. Busca fotos de la verdadera L-39 para encontrarla.

Sensores01 - Tres barras que encajan en los agujeros bajo Nose01.

Sensores02 - Cosa de la antena en la parte superior del fuselaje. Busca fotos de la verdadera L-39 para encontrarla.

Sensores03 - Transmisor de acumulación de hielo. Va en el lado izquierdo de la nariz por la puerta del tren de aterrizaje. Busca fotos de la verdadera L-39 para encontrarla.

Servohatchaileron01 - Servo escotillas de alerones. Instalar con tornillos #0 o #1 .

Servohatchrudder01 - Servo escotilla del timón. Instalar con tornillos #0 o #1 .

Shockeyelet01 - Reemplazo de la tapa de los amortiguadores para evitar que el collarín de resorte se deslice sobre ellos.

Pistón de choque01 - Pistón de choque de dos ranuras para aceite más pesado de 10000 CST.

Pistón de choque02 - Un pistón de choque de una ranura para 10000 CST de aceite y más ligero.

Stand01 - Parte delantera del stand. Utiliza un tubo o tubería de 16 mm Ø x 540 mm de largo para unirlos.

Stand02 - Parte trasera del stand.

Tiptank01 - Partes traseras de los tanques de punta de ala.

Tiptank02 - Partes medias de los tanques de punta de ala.

Tiptank03 - Partes delanteras de los tanques de punta de ala.

Tiptank04 - Vidrio de luz frontal del tanque de la punta.

Vstab01 - Parte frontal inferior del estabilizador vertical.

Vstab02 - Parte trasera inferior del estabilizador vertical.

Vstab03 - Parte media del estabilizador vertical.

Vstab04 - Parte media del estabilizador vertical.

Vstab05 - Parte superior del estabilizador vertical.

Weaponmount01 - Puntos de montaje de armas interiores para las alas.

Weaponmount02 - Puntos de montaje del arma exterior para las alas.

Wing01 - Parte interior de las alas sin solapa.

Wing01-flap - Parte interna de las alas con aleta.

Wing02 - Parte media de las alas sin solapa.

Wing02-flap - Parte media de las alas con aleta.

Ala 03 - Partes exteriores de las alas.

Wing03-notank - Partes exteriores de las alas para las puntas de las alas sin tanques de punta.

Wingtip01 - Punta de ala plana sin tanque de punta.

JGAurora Airplane.zip - Viejo perfil simplificado en 3D para secciones del fuselaje con la impresora JGAurora A5.

Parámetros de impresión 3D

La mayoría de las partes deben ser impresas con un perímetro de 0,4 mm solamente y sin relleno fuera de curso. Las excepciones son las piezas de bisagra, las piezas pequeñas y las piezas del tren de aterrizaje que deben imprimirse con muchas paredes o con un relleno sólido.

La carcasa del EDF debe ser impresa con un 100% de relleno y con tres perímetros.

El impulsor EDF debe ser impreso con 6-8 capas superiores e inferiores y 6-8 perímetros y 0% de relleno.

Las piezas del fuselaje necesitan 3 capas inferiores y 6 superiores en su mayoría.

Recomiendo que Nose03 se imprima con dos perímetros para los primeros 120 mm para que los soportes de los engranajes se refuercen.

Los Fanrail01 necesitan ser impresos de forma sólida si planeas perforarlos para un EDF del mercado de repuestos.

Maingearmounts01 debe imprimirse con seis perímetros y veinte capas superiores para dar algo para que los tornillos de montaje retráctiles se agarren. Las capas inferiores pueden ser sólo cuatro o cinco. El relleno no es importante. Use cero relleno.

Maingear01-02 debe tener ocho perímetros de 0,4 mm, doce capas superiores e inferiores y al menos un 50% de relleno. Lo mismo se aplica a las piezas del engranaje de la nariz.

  • Formato de archivo 3D : STL y ZIP

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I also added 10 mm version of the nose and main gear parts in case you need them.

Thanks friend !
I've found it on yours files ! I gone made a second one ! :)

Maingear02-11mm is for 11 mm trunnions. Do you need 10 mm as well?

Hy plane fly's verry good.
Do you have files for the size opening 10 / 11 mm for retracks of JP ??

Reducing the layer to 0.16 mm eliminated the problem.

I use a layer height 0.2 mm

What layer height are you using when that happens? It slices normally in Simplify 3D for me at 0,12, 0,16, 0,2 and 0,24 mm

The new Canopy02 has another problem, from layer number 934, two peripheral layers will gradually appear instead of one. I don't know if this is a Simplify or .stl file problem.

Thanks for letting me know. I reuploaded a fixed Canopy02 now. You can redownload from your account.

Please check the Canopy02.stl file. It seems to be damaged. After slicing in Simplify3d, there are errors in it. Canopy01 and Canopy03 are OK with the same settings. I downloaded the file again for sure, the mistake is still there.

I order mine on Ebay or Amazon. Hobby King has almost all of them, if you can get a shipment from them.

It becomes a lot cheaper if you try to get the ones you need from a single seller. The shipping stacks up and becomes expensive.

Ebay sellers have often been the cheapest for me. Many sellers will create custom listings if you ask for 600 mm tubes for example.

This is reasonably priced. The seller has other dimensions too, in 500 mm, so he might be able to sell 576 mm or 600 mm long as well:
11x13x800mm:
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&toolid=11800&pub=5575353675&campid=5338226872&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2F113277356328

I know the tubes for this plane can be expensive so I'm trying to avoid these sizes in my other planes.

I was able to find them om Ebay, but quite expensive. Bur ordered now..

Regarding carbon tubes. Some of them are ok to get from elefun, but some tubes are hard to get and really expencive...
Any tips where to get them without paying a fortune?

I will start the build this weekend, and have got the standard rods so I can start building the fuselage.
All the other hardware (ball bearings, clevis...) are purchased.

Today I made the first flight with this model. It flies very well, I'm satisfied. Thank you, good job.

Go to your account, then click "Orders" and then click "View" next to the line with EL-39 and you come to a download page where you can redownload.

Yes I also was wondering if I could download the new improved wings without having to purchase the full file again but I do not see how it is possible

Jeg ser du har endret wing02 og Wing03. Må jeg kjøpe på ny, eller kan jeg laste ned endringene fra Cults?

To get decent clarity print with high temperature and high layer height (0,24 mm leyers works well). Then coat both sides with two or more layers of clear spray paint.

Hello, I wanted to know what product you used to clarify the canopy

Hi, yes you are right, I had skirt setup. I did not know that this had any influence before slicing. After removing this it fits fine. Thanks for the tip.I have not started on the wings yet. I am almost finished with the fuselage. I did the fuselage and nose parts with a 0.6mm extruder then extensive sanding and removing the matting. I also used Esun PLA+. The results of the 0.6mm and PLA+ is very strong but I will be doing the wings and stabs with 0.4mm to minimize the weight. The 0.6mm printed at 0.37 height is very fast as well. One more question, what is your opinion on replacing the carbon fiber tubes with aluminum tubing?

Wing01 model dimensions are 293,35x296,32x179,53, so there should be plenty of extra room on a 300x300 bed. If you have a brin or additional stuff added turn it off.

Hi, I am truly impressed by your design and build. I am very excited to do this project and now with lockdown I have a lot of time on my hands. I have come across a problem with printing the first wing part. It does not fit. I have tried everything. I bought a 300x300x350mm printer because you recommended it but now the file will not fit. As the file is now for wing01 with flaps, I would need a bed of 400x400mm to get to work in Cura. If I separate the two wing parts and then remove a piece of the wing I could get it to work but I have no other solution, am I missing something?

If that's not the problem then maybe you can add a shim under the outer mounting points of the retract unit to angle the retract slightly.

hello i have printed the
drum brakes on the LE-39, now do not close the gates as they hit the servo

hello i have printed the
drum brakes on the LE-39, now do not close the gates as they hit the servo

I bought and downloaded this jet of yours several months ago, but came around to start printing it just a couple a weeks ago.

I have printed ten different 3DPrintLab planes and one Eclipson Blackwing, but this is by far the best designed and most thoroughly thought out 3D printed plane I have ever owned. Well worth the price (acutally - I think it's bargain).

Great design, great STL files, looks majestic (in my living room for now :-D - I'm about 80% done with printing, and haven't even started on electronics and motor).

Congrats!

Typically 5 minutes from takeoff to touch down. 8 minutes is possible.

Done! Just wait for a suitable weather for the flight. What is approximately 12S 5000 mAh flight time?

Do you have in mind the next model you are going to design ?, a beautiful plane would be the f100 for edf 120mm

hello I wanted to know how he was able to drill the motor shaft. It has some illustration.
I also wanted to know if you have thought about doing a 90mm edf design

They slide into the inner wing panel and glue in plac with CA.

I'd like to have this is 80/90mm EDF version, is that possible? If so, do you know what the scale down should be if I were to purchase?

Thank you. Not reinforcement, but servo holder will be required. I cannot find any mounting surface for so oriented servo. There are only sharp edges to which nothing can be screwed.

I added a photo of a installed flap servo. If the mounting surface is too thin becaseu fo too few layers you can glue on a reinforcement on the surface.

I'm sorry, but I need to make it clear. Is the servo bolted directly to the lower surface of the wing perpendicular to it? Elsewhere there is not enough material for the screws.
In "Mainwheel01-bb", the bearing size of 4x7x3 is probably given incorrectly. The slot is for 4x8x3 bearings.

The flap servos mount in the root end of Wing02-flap and don't need a hatch.

Is there a "servohatchflap" or something else? How is the flap servo mounted in the wing? Is photo possible?

Hi, alu tubes have not the same stability like carbon tubes. The risk to loose the wings is much greater.

hi great model busy printing it, but there's one thing can I use alu tubes 13mm instead of carbon? just for the wings?

Hello, as first I would like to say thank you for perfect model. I have just one question. I have printed front and rear Vstab but Vstab02 - Bottom rear part of vertical stabilizer looks higher then front part approx 3-4 mm. Is it for some reason or I did something wrong?

Thx!

That's great to hear. :)

I will try to use even dimensions in the future. Many people have requested this.

If i could say a wish, so please use even values mm for the big carbon tubes. The 9mm, 11mm and 13mm are extremely expensive.

Hello, yesterday the 23.10.2019 was my maiden fly, and it works great. only a little trim down and right. Then i fly full speed and 150m loop, immelman, rolls and .....
Perfekt handling from the first second! The landing with full flaps was even so wonderfull. I mixed 2mm elevator down to the full flaps. My cg is 93mm. The take off weight is 8050g. The fan is an 120mm Jetfan. The esc and motor are the like discription.

Thanks for the great constraction
Lars

OK, thank you

Printing Fuselage01. The "Canopy latch assembly" image shows the green part of the air inlet. It is not on the printed part. Is it printing separately? What is the file name? I couldn't find it. Thank you.
Karel

Hi
I bought your model today. What layer height do you use, 0.2 or 0.25 mm?
Karel

Ok thanks alot i will "save" the piece which ive already printed and print another one later.

You're right. I hadn't noticed. 3DS Max removed most of the internal when I created a new boolean modifier to cut out the latch. Thanks for letting me know. I reuploaded it.

Hi
Just a quick question regarding fuselage01-latch, in cura im missing the inner boxes in nose part, 3 on each side i think. Ive seen pics from you with them clearly visable. Can you verify the part being correct ?
Might be cura thats showing it wrong but dont think so. Ive printed it and it was no surprice it got a bit saggy without the inner boxes or beams,

All the best
Peter

I've printed two big parts of the plane and i must say realy nice job what you did ! Perfect design ! Thanks

greetz

If you downsixe it by 10% then the retract units, shocks carbon fiber tubes and rods won't fit so you'll have to figure out how to replace them. Should be doable but it will need some work.

The only parts you will not be able to print at 100% are Wing01-flap Fuselage01, Fuselage02 and Fuselage03. You can split them up in two pieces each in meshmixer for example which will work fine since you have a printer that's tall enough to print full height.

Hi, I have a printer with a build plate of x=300 y=220 z=300. Can I scale the parts down by 10% or is there any way of printing it at 100% with my build plate size?

man, is it possible to print it out on a 190mm by 190mm by 190mm printer?

Sorry. It requires a lot of design work to make that happen, and the largest parts will need to be cut into five to eight smaller pieces to fit on a smaller printer. Imagine a 30x30x30 cube being cut down to fit 200x200x200. It needs to be cut into eight pieces to fit the smaller size.

is it possible for you to do a download for me to split the larger parts to fit a printer with a 210mm by 210mm by 205mm thanks colin

Is it possible for you(the designer of the plane) to send me the STL files of the tail fin in a fewer number of pieces? please? Thanks

perdona aqui estan todos los archivos imprimibles para crear el avion

Wheel can be printed with maybe four perimeters and maybe 50% infill. Just make them strong.

For tires I use two perimeters and maybe 10% infill. It's very printer and filament dependent. I need a lot of top layers to close the tires.

How many perimeters did you us for the wheels and did you use any infill? Thanks

The canopyplugs are for fabricating plugs for vacuum forming canopy glass. They can also be used to print separate pieces for the glass so that you can make a cleaner looking printed glass than the one made along with the frame. You don't need to print them to finish the plane normally.

Do I need to print the "canopyplug" parts, and what are they for.

I haven't changed anything in a long time. You should get the newest revision if you download now.

There in my account have the option to recover the purchased files, are these files already up to date? Thanks in advance ... thanks !!!

Hello friend I did the previous purchase the updates, could you provide me the updated files?

One 0,4 mm perimeter and 0% infill for all the large parts.

Hi guys, I'm having trouble printing the fuselage. So i'm wondering what percent of infill did you use and how thick should I print the walls?

many thanks
i have find in your country good engine
Het Typhoon 800-68/685 on 12s (huge C) produced static thrust about 9,5 kg/ 6700W power
where i can buy it
georges

There is no separate intake. The intake is integrated in the fuselage and adds to the structural integrity of the plane.

dear
I have not found the file of the two input air in Y form to input air from outdoor to turbine
regards
georges

I have never flown turbines myself but I think it's possible if you can shield the plastic from the heat. There is a lot of room behind the cockpit for a custom tank or bladder tank.

Hi, I'm interested in your EL-39 rc plane. it is possible to adapt it for Gas turbine class 100?

Castle Creations 2028 probably won't fit because it's too big. 800kv is too high for 12S. Maybe with 8S, but the current draw will have to be 125-130 A to achieve the same power. It is also a much more expensive motor than the HET 800-73-590.

can you give me your opignon to introduce EDF castle 2028 in housing and fan 3d printing? in your L39 model ALBATROS
castle 2028 with manbaXL BEC
power 10ch
800kv max rpm 45000 length 113.2 mm diameter 57 mm axe 8mm lenght axe 30 mm
i want use blower for this motor it's with 2 fan lower motor temperature as much as 30 degrees
lenght 89mm width 60.5 mm height 57.5 mm
best regards
georges

I have some interesting news. I figured out why the part was buckling, in Simplify3d under the ADVANCED tab in the lower right corner I had MERGE all outlines into a single solid model. That caused me a lot of issues with the buckling. So after unselecting it I did quite a number of tests today with both printers. I confirmed somethings very interesting. First I confirmed that with 0 infill and 0.4 layer height the models printed can be used per the author. The part I printed ( a single horizontal stabilizer ) using the settings just mentioned in PLA weighed in on the scale at 40 grams. However I did not give up on PETG, instead I printed the same part with 0.2 layer height and 8% infill - the part is MORE rigid than the PLA version and weighs also 40 grams.... So that was a big WOW moment for me.... I currently have another idea for PETG zero infill with double outside parameters and 0.4 layer height. So I'm trying that out now, and should have a weight on it soon. There is ZERO flex printing PETG with 8% infill and it looks AMAZING. It looks right now, as though I will be going the PETG route for my build due to the better heat tolerances for outdoors, plus it looks SUPER cool... One thing I have noticed though doing this is I need to get TL Smoothers for my drivers to get rid of the salmon skin. It would look cool if I was using a wood filament, but the PETG black I'm testing with looks like Carbon Fiber and the salmon skin / wood grain effect doesn't suit the plane.... =) Sorry about all the posts, I just wanted to share my experimentation with the community

I didn't weigh the parts so I don't know what they all weighed. The airfrane should be printed with 0% infill. If you get buckling you need to work on your settings. Probably too hot nozzle or bed.

If you could provide the weights that would be great. I did quite a number of test prints, with PLA and PETG. I had to use 4% infill on PLA with 0.2 layer height to get a structure I was happy with flying as well as 1 outside perimeter. With PETG I used 1 outside perimeter and 10% infill , 0.2 layer height - provides a REALLY nice finish. Here is where the interesting thing comes in, both weighed in exactly at 44 grams. The PETG at 10% was VERY stiff and firm, no flex at all... This was using budget refill PETG and PLA so nothing fancy.

I thought it was good results, I wish I knew the weights in grams on all the parts - it would make it easy to know how the infill affects overall weight, I can than scale it up to see how much the model will weigh in the end with this weight for PETG.

Right now, if the weight is on spec I will go with PETG for most of the build , the look of it as well as the stiffness I have achieved in the structure I am now happy with it. I am thinking about going to 8% infill for a test as well. I was not happy with 5% infill there was too much flex. I think 8% would be the lowest I would go with this part.

I printed only one side of part Hstab02.stl - I would be curious to know that one in grams right now to see if I'm on track. If the author could provide the weights to the parts that would be helpful. If the part stl file has two pieces, left and right side, if the weight could be broken down for one side, that would be also a HUGE help.

I am happy to provide my data to the community to help people decide if they want to print in PETG vs PLA as well. I will do up a video to show the group tomorrow and place it on youtube to show the difference in flex from 5% PETG, 10% PETG and if I print another this evening 8% PETG

I have PLA 4% here as well. I am not doing the one perimeter vase mode, the buckling in the stabilizer was horrible, no much support there for my piece of mind.

I can't find the weights in grams for each of your components - I thought I saw it somewhere, can you provide the link please...

Just finished single perimeter wall on PETG and PLA - PETG was way way way too flexible with single wall, the PLA was better however both prints of the same piece (horizaontal stabilizer) bowed inwards due to the fact there was no infill, there was nothing there to support the piece since it was printed basically in vase mode. Both the PETH and PLA did this, with PETG doing in more than PLA. I am currently redoing the print with 5% infill on both PETG and PLA. These tests today should show me which filament I will use for the build. I am still hoping for good things with PETG, I haven't given up, I will weigh the parts as well to get an idea how much they weigh vs the authors weight with the infill added to both types of filament.

I just started printing PETG on one printer and PLA on another, using the horizontal stabilizer as a test part (fairly small part) will show the difference to me in the materials for usage. I did a test print last night , but after checking my details I say it was .2 layer height not .4 so maybe that accounts for the flex and weakness in both prints I am seeing this morning, so I reset the print to go at .4 for both of them, I also changed top and bottom layers to 4 instead of 1, with a single perimeter wall in simplify3d. I should see my next test this afternoon. I needed to do this before I commit to buying many rolls of either pla or petg. Right not, things are not looking good for PETG. We shall see soon...

it's easy no problem for me to separe 2 parts only one
for fuselage 05 part i think good filament for resist in hight temperature is polycarbonate filament
i want tested this solution

Click "mesh" and then "Separate Connected Surfaces" in Simplify 3D. IT will split the parts up in all its unconnected pieces and you can move them around. Make sure that any internal objects that are separated also are moved when the main object is removed, as it will separate pockets as individual parts.

I made the files like they are to reduce confusion and keep the file count down. I arranged them in the same groups that I use to print myself.

I purchased the STL's but I'm noticing that all the stls when you open them up have two parts for example with the wings, it would be big benefit to have singular parts to make it easier to print. Can you do this as I cannot remove one from the slicer (Simplify3d), when I select either part and press delete it removes both...

i have transformed stl in G code with simplify 3D filament 6 kg and 620h print time
it's first result we can optimise certain part
time for print is not a problem for me i have 8 printer bigest is 600x600x600 other 320x320x400......

Four kg should be enough if all goes perfectly.

How many spools of PLA ( estimated if you don't remember ) did it take to print this aircraft ? Just purchased the stl's and I need to order spools for the build.

I haven't used a turbine in mine so I don't know what the xhaust temp would be. You can see many videos of my plane that demonstrate how the landing gear holds up to hard landings.

Hello
I am preparing the 3d printing of your L-39 model
can help me find a supplier of carbon tubes
do you know the temperature at the turbine outlet and its maximum operating temperature?
see the series of photos
https://www.turbosquid.com/3d-models/3d-aero-vodochody-l-39-albatros-model/761381#
I have some concerns about the performance of landing gear in 3d printing
I'm looking to equip the jet with a metal landing gear
thank you
kind regards
Georges

Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator

Welcome !
My question would be how much 3D printing would cost me home. I have a CR10 S5 printer and I would like to print this model. But I do not know how much it would cost me and what material I would use because I want to try 3D printing for the first time. I like Challenges and Airplanes.
If you would please and help me in this I would thank you.
Welcome to Csanád Gál

Check the files for updates and you will find a new wheel with ball bearing pockets. :)

New update: test taxi runs have gone great! Found a little flaw. Going back and forth a few times at high speed, heats up the axle and melts the main strut after some long runs down the runway. I’ve fixed it since and finishing the gyro setup. Hopefully next week I can maiden it.

BONJOUR J AI UN PROBLEME D IMPRESSION POUR LES AILES SUR CURA LES AILES NE SONT PAS PLEINES SI VOUS ME DONNER VOTRE EMAIL JE PEUX VOUS ENVOYER UNE CAPTURE D ECRAN MERCI

BONJOUR
OU SE TROUVE LE FICHIER POUR POUVOIR FIXER LE TRAIN AVANT SUR LE NEZ DE L'AVION ???
MERCI

good afternoon I wanted to buy the files for the L39 my printer has an area of ​​210 * 210 * 205, can scale to this dimension, or sell the cad, wanted to use a 90mm EDF.

It's 1:6,5 size. I cut my own paint stencils with a vinyl cutter.

Got the retracts all working. I'm looking at some graphics, but what size is this? 1/6? I thought I saw on another site as 1/6.5. Thanks for the help as usual!

Ok, I'll try it out. I'm using a 6.6V LiFe. It's getting close!lol

No they don't need a sequencer. What voltage did you try them with? Try spinning the shaft a little first to bring the unit out from the end point.

One of mine had a tendency to stick on one end because the magnet in the moving beam was too far away from the circuit board. I pushed the magnet out and that fixed it. It shouldn't be necessary though.

Hey bud, I bought 3 of those retracts from HK that you linked too, and I tried to use a servo tester on them. They didn't work. Are these the type of servoless retracts that need a sequencer to work? I'm stumped. I even tried using three different servo testers.

Maingeardoor01 contains both parts attached to the main gear. Maingear02 and 03 are the inboard doors.

what's the name of the stl file that has the main gear covers? Not the main gear doors. Thanks!!

Everything is all printed up! Now just getting in the parts to finish it. All the guys fly at my field are turbines and 90mm this size, and no one has an extra 120mm edf laying around!!lol For now, I'm saving for Jetfan 1120 pro and the HET 800-72-590. At least that is the plan!!lol Servos are coming in soon as well as, the carbon fiber rods. Also have to wait for the servoless retracts to come in. Damn! So much stuff to buy, no time to wait!!lol

Thanks as always!

Larry

They should fit in the bay. The width should only just fit but there should be plenty of room for the diameter.

The 3D printed tires on my EL-39 are quite hard. It's a heavy plane.

I've tried using flexible filament before, but in the humidity of South Florida near Ft. Lauderdale, you can't get the same flex as you could being up north! To much moisture, unless you have a perfectly controlled room an temperature. I just ordered the same size from Tower hobbies. Robert wheels model ROBQ1534. They sure look like the same size!!lol

If you were going to choose a robart main wheel, which would you use? It's my only hiccup now.

It's possible to make Robart 669L and 669R spring struts fit. They need to be cut and bent to fit. Other struts may fit, but I don't have any to test with. The printed struts are very strong. Check out my videos. I make a few very hard landings and haven't had any failure of the main landing gear yet. The nose gear is more fragile, but should never be the first thing to hit the ground.

The nose wheel is 60x20 mm. That's the max size that will fit.

The main wheels are 85x22 mm. The biggest you can fit is ~85x24 mm

What size is the nose wheel, if I were to buy one, and what size main gear wheel?

It doesn't go inside Nosegear04. It goes inside Nosegear03, and then Nosegear04 goes inside 03 on top of the shock. I attached a photo in the Thread on RCGroups.

The hex nut is the same as the outside width of that cylinder it needs to go inside. I must be missing the step. The graphic shows how it goes together, but what does you hex nut look like? Is it in a file I'm missing?

I do have a question regarding the nose gear. I have printed most of the pieces for it and I'm not sure if the shock absorber goes into nosegear04. Because the shock you told me to get, doesn't fit in it. Any pictures, not the computer pic, that shows you doing it would be great!!!

Thanks again!

Larry

I added two photos now showing the inside of the nose and main wheel wells wher ethe door servos reside.

You know, after I wrote that, I thought that was what they were for!! Not technical!!!lol Are there any pics of how you attached the servo to the nose gear door/ main gear doors? And how you put the servo in and how the retract looks, up? Any pic that is a close up of major parts, would be perfect! Also, if I can't print the landing gear to be good enough, like yours, do you know of any links for ones that might be bought online? Thanks again!
Awesome jet!!!

Those are there to support the center piece as it's built from a tiny surface up. I could not get it to print without them. Just snip them off after printing that section. They will leave minimal spots to clean up.

Ask away. There are probably more people wondering about things, and I don't know about all the things that need explaining.

I am following that thread! Pictures are a big help for me. Not a very "technical" person. I've adopted the "keep it simple" approach!!LOL Now one more question and I'll be out of your hair, what are those 6 ovals, almost floating, in the air intakes? Did I skip something in the thread regarding them?
Thanks for all the help!

Thank you, sir! Now, if I can figure out your nose gear door, I should be ok.

Thanks again!
Larry

Thanks for the response! What is the name of the file for the top piece of the tail? In your picture above, it is the part above the purple section. I have the two tan/brown pieces, the red and the purple, but not the pink top. Sorry to be a pain!!

Hi, Larry. There is no third part of the rudder. It got added to the list of parts by mistake. :) The rudder only has two parts.

Awesome L-39! I bought the files, but it seems to be missing the rudder03 in the downloaded files. Last part I need to finish the tail!! Any way I can get that one?
Thanks!
Larry

Hi, really nice model and good idea. I have buy your plans, but it's a little difficult how to assembly, specially the nose gear. Could you upload one video explaning how it is the correct way to assembly and especially how work the nose gear steering system? I have to buy 3 units of 90 degree retract servos, with no integrated steering, right?

Thanks

Sergio


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