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ED-209 (Film Accurate 1987)

Calidad de creación: 4,9/5 (9 votos)
Evaluación de los miembros: imprimibilidad, utilidad, detalles, etc.
  • 11k vista
  • 66 me gusta
  • 31 descargas

Descripción del modelo 3D

Esta es una pantalla exacta OCP ED-209 de la película de 1987.. El modelo es un boceto e impresión completamente nuevo que tomó más de un mes de trabajo bastante consistente.

Esto es 100% imprimible como se ve en las fotos usando una impresora FDM con una boquilla de .4. Mi ED-209 se imprimió en una Ender 5 Plus y Prusa MK3S a una altura de capa de 0,12. La mayoría de las piezas requieren un soporte mínimo o nulo.

Actualización: Ago 2020 - Nuevo visor con una "cara" más pronunciada para que se vea aún mejor. Ambas versiones están incluidas en la descarga.

He incluido una guía de instrucciones.

Hay muchas piezas debido a que no quería que el soporte cicatrizara por todas partes.

La cabeza tiene provisiones para la electrónica para que puedas iluminarla, hacerla hablar, etc. Hay suficiente espacio para un ordenador Intel NUC ahí dentro si quisieras.

Archivo .zip incluido para facilitar la descarga.

Parámetros de impresión 3D

.12 altura de la capa

10 - 20% de relleno


Información sobre el 3D archive

  • Formato de diseño 3D: 3MF, PDF, STL, y ZIP Detalles del fichero Cerrar
    • Back.stl
    • ED-209 Assembly Guide.pdf
    • ED-209 Mockup_Assembled.3mf
    • ED-209
    • Front.stl
    • GToBodyL.stl
    • GToBodyR.stl
    • Visor.8.22.20_Plated.stl
  • Última actualización: 2021/07/19 07:09
  • Fecha de publicación: 2020/05/19 06:37





Diseños 118
Descargadas 13,5k
Ventas 1.581 US$
Seguidores 441

Just a nerd making all sorts of stuff. If you like my work, please donate to help me buy more printers and tools.

Many thanks and keep making!

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30 comentarios

The file "Head Front and Back" is too large for me to print on my ender 3 V2.
Are you able to provide these parts in 2 separate printable files?
Sorry still very new to 3D printing and not sure how to split an existing file myself.
Thanks in advance :)

Yes, I will split into 2 separate models. You can do this in Prusa Slicer as well. Click on the "O" button. If you are using Cura, you cannot. I will upload today.

  • 1 me gusta

yeah i'm still so new i am still learning. Ill give things a go but if you could let me know once uploaded that would be amazing :)

I uploaded it.

Thanks you so much :) Truly appreciated

Is your email on this site somewhere? I'm not sure how to upload pictures to explain.

I am going to work on the changes you outlined. I am finishing another model and will work on these.

Hi Joker! I think I understand your comments about adding to the model! I am glad to do it but not sure what you mean. If you can post pictures, I'll modify the model so it's better. The furthest back vents are flush with the body work I believe - I understand and will update it as an option for others. Which 2 holes on the outside of the leg? As for the chin - coming to a point, you mean where it goes flat? I can add to that as well. Oh - Greeblies. I can add a detail ring to that. Sorry have been working on the 5th Element Police Car and a BSG model. Will get to it hopefully this weekend.

Love the model, i have finally finished printing, painting and assembling now. I have been working on this for several months now. I plan to have arms rotate at shoulder, and bend at elbow. I have updated the grill insert ,remade the rocket launcher, and made the chin come to a triangle/ point.
Few easy updates if you ever plan to update the model:
Backside of hip piece shouldnt have the two rectangle inserts. Also front of hips, the rectangles should cut into the chamfered edge, to allow the greeblies to sit over edge.
The outside side of each leg should not have the two holes.
The chin should come to a point.
Vents have been discussed.
Minor stuff that putty and sandpaper can fix.
Are there still any plans to do the greeblie panels under the legs/above feet?
Thanks for all your hard work, I only wish i had the original model file to update these changes myself.

Apologies, been ages since I have been on here. Your model is fine, it was me. I had switched the left and right arms and put a screw through from the outside to the body through shoulder which allowed the arms / guns to tilt up and down.

I uploaded the new files at the 10 and 2 Oclock position. Let me know if you like it. It should fit. Enjoy!

I actually modeled the shoulder pieces like the film version but what happens is the wire mounts interfere with the shoulder armor and the only way I could fix that was to rotate them around so that it would clear. Let me know if you want the other files but IMHO, it doesn't quite fit.

Having great fun putting this together, however, in painting and dressing the model with wires I think you have the 'Shoulder_ToGunL_R' components on the wrong sides and thus in the wrong positions? In the screen version the 3 rear pin sockets on the right shoulder ToGun are high up in the 10 o clock position and on the left shoulder in the 2 o clock position (i.e high and rear), you have them below the middle in the 8 and 4 o clock positions respectively (i.e low and rear). Moreover, in your separate Shoulder Assembly guide while the bigger picture is of the left shoulder, the smaller picture where you say 'Robot left shoulder shown' this must be the right shoulder not the left. Needless to say, stills taken from the film of the rear sockets on the shoulder side have them high up so the wires go upwards from the gun body sockets to them. If true the Ed-209 Mockup is also the wrong way around.

that would be great to have that detailed ring

As to the comment about the space between the leg and toes, I left that so you could add your own greeblies to it. I was going to model out panels and wires and may do so very soon and add that as a "detailed" ring that slots over pin.

So, for the body disk - you press the 608 into the body disk. On the Hip there is a 8mm rod that you print. I would recommend something like 7 to 8 walls and 60% infill for strength. It doesn't need to be that strong but I prefer it that way. That 8mm rod goes into the 608 bearing. That body disk now rests on the hip rubber. It is contained in a file called ALLHIP PARTS. That file has all the parts in the proper orientation for printing with little to no support.

Leadscrews. You can use the 8mm lead screw to the 8mm cap and cap spinner. This gives ED209's rear leg a little more sizing. I left the older parts in there for reference but you don't need them.

I think the file you refer to as 'TO608', the pin that goes through the bearing to connect the hip to the 'body disk' is missing. Iv'e bought a 608 bearing but presume you will add two pins to the zip folder, one each for with and without bearing. Also, what's the reasoning for the two 'lead screws', 8mm vs the other?

Looks excellent, good work! Just printing the leg rails, will print the boxy, screen accurate visor next :)

New Boxy Visor is up!

I can see all the shoulder files now in the new .zip file, thank you. Thanks on the visor, look fwd to seeing it.

Hey, I just uploaded a new .zip which has new instructions on the shoulder along with an image. I also renamed some of the files to make it all clear. Please re-download so you know how to assemble. Reach out and let me know if you have further questions.

New Visor with Dimples will go up tomorrow. You will have a choice between the two.

Great mate, if you can dimple the visor like the original one on Thingiverse which I have printed it comes out quite nice and looks realistic.

Let me check on the files. As for how Shoulder_Armor_V2 there should be a L_R (they are actually mirrors of each other). From there, you use the pin file to slide it through the join body halves through the Shoulder Armor piece. The Shoulder_Pin is used to join it to the body of ED209. I will add an image to show how the entire shoulder assembly needs to go together.

RE the visor, I've finished it, it is a lot more boxy and I can either dimple it like the original or have users spray a textured paint on it so it simulates the fabric used in the movie.

As far as I can tell, it looks like you forgot to upload the majority of the shoulder files. We have Shoulder_Armour_V2 (a single and a L_R) and small square Shoulder_Pin x4, but that appears to be it

Freebug, Iv'e been through the unzipped folder it seems several times now and re downloaded, I appear to be missing about 6 or 7 files that connect the GunBody to the main body? Can you help explain?

Testing new visor - boxy. 17hr print. I may also experiment with CURA fuzzy surface as well. This version might use a textured auto bed liner as the surface which looks more like the fabric on the movie ED209.

starting printing it out and so far it's working a treat. it is very well cut up. The pin that joins the toes to the leg kinda leaves a big empty air gap above the toes. It would be cool to have something there that looks like actuators and the wires that some of the "toe" shots indicate.

I'll work on the vents. That's super easy in the cad program. Visor will take a bit longer though.

Understood, but if you would like to offer two versions of the head back, I have worked on the exhausts vents and made as close to film accurate using your model and putting the slats at the end. I have also hidden supports inside so it doesn't need slicer supports and it has printed well. Happy to upload on this site or try and send to you?

Well, when I made my ED-209, I thought - why the heck would you have exposed vents? The movie also had a bunch of exposed wires so I made it where it would be battle ready. I took those design elements from a M998 HUMVEE I restored. My model has a bit of what I felt like the movie one should have. I mean why would you want exposed wiring on a battle robot? I need to find time to work on the updated visor for you.

Can I just check I haven't missed something? Why you have put the vent exhaust slats so far down inside the vents? The only original pics that I have seen seem to have the slats flush with the vent exits.

If you are and can do a V2 visor the other feedback I would give is that in the 'final' version the dimples are about 30-50% closer together and this seems to give a better illusion that the visor is made of mesh, in this version the dimple spacing seems a little too far apart. Also, at 100% what scale is this? I will prob try and print at 75%, I have a 0.4 and 0.2mm nozzle, so guess I will just need the 0.2mm for the more intricate works such as the weapons?

Nice one. Just spent an hr comparing this model to the previous and then to the film, I can see you have put a lot of work into other areas as well. I had a go at changing just the mouth bit in tinkercad, which worked ok, but having looked at all the other changes you have made, I think your price is worth it for the time you must have put in. I'll leave the visor until last. But yeah see what you mean the stills are different to the stop motion. But was also looking at the hot toy / sideshow model, which is probably a halfway house.

Hey, the visor does have a little bit of boxing. I read on the internet that they tried to make it rounder but because the screen model was made out of 2x4s the visor came out extra boxy. The ironic part is the stop action model's visor isn't as boxy. I'll take another pass at adding another visor that is more square.

Hey dude, great work and so tempted to pay for this and download, but it's the visor that still isn't right compared to the on screen version which has boxed angles rather than a completely smoothed curved surface. Have you looked into altering this? I guess it's just too much effort to try and change from GHathaway's model? I started printing your 'final' version on thingiverse, but it was when I was looking into paint schemes I realised how wrong the mouth was that you have obviously done a better version here; I almost don't understand why others have gone to such great lengths in the detail and got this fundamental part so wrong. But with the visor being such a fundamental part, and you dedication to this project and attention to detail, I wondered if the visor being wrong bothered you as well and whether you had plans to upload a newer version? Then I would be convinced to buy.

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