Ir al contenido

Articulated Dragon

?
Calidad de creación: 4,5/5 (248 votos)
Evaluación de los miembros: imprimibilidad, utilidad, detalles, etc.
  • 👁 561k vista
  • 2,5k me gusta
  • 29,4k descargas

Descripción del modelo 3D

Print-in-place Articulated Dragon!!

Huge, very flexible, and printed in one piece without supports. Just the mustache needs to be assembled after printing (see video example).

It can be scaled up or down as much as you want (the limit is your printer capabilities).

https://youtu.be/uSrJmNybCMg

Check my other articulated designs here!

Disclaimer: The Dragon doesn't stand upright. Some pictures have been taken using a metal wire stand for display purposes.


Parámetros de impresión 3D

A good first layer is mandatory for the print to succeed. Be sure your printer is calibrated and you have good bed adhesion. I recommend a slow and thick first layer (8 mm/s and 0.3 mm).
Good layer cooling is also recommended, as it prevents curling and warping on overhangs.

Información sobre el 3D archive

  • Formato de diseño 3D: ZIP Detalles del fichero Cerrar
    • Dragon_v2.zip
    • Dragon_v2_Straight.zip

    Más sobre los formatos

  • Última actualización: 2021/11/15 10:03
  • Fecha de publicación: 2021/11/06 10:53

Copyright

©

Palabras-clave

Creador

¿Tienes algún defecto en este diseño? Advertir de una problema

Colección asociada a este modelo 3D


Makes hechos por la comunidad

Los más vendidos de la categoría Juegos


Añadir un comentario

83 comentarios

is it normal to have a lot of stringing when finished or it just me?

I'm using Ender 3v2 for print and Cura for slicer. the print keeps failing about halfway through the print. could you please post best settings for this print?

  • 1 me gusta

Hi! It depends on the cause of the failure. If you send me some pictures to mcgybeer@gmail.com I'll be glad to help ;)

ok I'll retry today and see where it goes. thanks for the response

Very interesting and cool

hello, first off great print you have here. Secondly I had a problem where the joints were stiff and I had to force them to move and some of the hinges broke easily. any tips to make in the settings?

Hi! To help you I'll need more details. Are you printing on FDM or resin? Scale? Printer? Slicer?

Hello, it is possible to place a wire skeleton to make cool poses with my dragon

Hi! I tried to add a hole for that, but the articulation is too tight and wasn't feasible. Instead, I used an external metal wire support to take the pictures ;)

  • 1 me gusta

Hello, i was wondering if i would be able to sell this on ebay? (The 3d print, not the model)

i meant etsy, not ebay

I'm sorry, the license of this design is non-commercial and I'm not giving new authorizations right now.

Thank you for the straight forward and honest response

Someone stole your file and posted
https://thangs.com/%E6%88%91%E6%84%9B%E5%B3%AE%E5%B3%AE/%E4%B8%AD%E5%9C%8B%E9%BE%8D%20(%E5%8F%AF%E5%8B%95).stl-43410?utm_source=model_digest&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=model_digest&utm_content=notification_row_model
I would report, but I believe thangs doesn't have this feature

Hi!
Thanks a lot for the warning. It took a while, but I messaged Thangs staff and they have removed the item

Someone stole your file and posted
https://thangs.com/%E6%88%91%E6%84%9B%E5%B3%AE%E5%B3%AE/%E4%B8%AD%E5%9C%8B%E9%BE%8D%20(%E5%8F%AF%E5%8B%95).stl-43410?utm_source=model_digest&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=model_digest&utm_content=notification_row_model
I would report, but I believe thangs doesn't have this feature

Thanks a lot for your concern. I'll check it right now ;)

Holy cow - I went there just to see what the listing on amazon was and there was at least 10 more listings selling these. I sure hope they're licensed through you. (I have paid for the file, btw)

Sorry, I can't access the content of that group. Not sure what you wanted to show me

Thanks for your concern, just messaged the user ;)

Thanks for your concern, just messaged the user ;)

Hello,

I downloaded the design and tried to print it on my elegoo pro2, but it was completely stiff. Do you know the level of emptying it has to have for it to move? or for what reason has it turned out like this for me?

Thanks!

Hi there!
I haven't printed it with resin myself, but I know lots of people did it, also with your printer. Check out the video by Uncle Jessy, with dedicated tips to print this Dragon in resin (link on the description)

Hi!

Second try is the good one!

It was a matter of lowering the exposure time.

Incredible design, incredible result.

Thanks!

Awesome! Glad to hear that ;)

My printer will not let the parts stay on the bed is there any way to make it stick more firmly to the bed I have a QIDI X-pro 3d Printer

Hi!
I don't have experience with that printer. I know some of my designs can be quite a torture test for some people. 95% of the issues are related to improve the bed adhesion and deal with warping/curling.

For the first one, just be sure your bed is well calibrated and clean (I use IPA). Lowering first layer speed, even down to 8-10m/s (or even slower if needed), really improves adhesion. And also increasing thickness for the first layer, around 0.3 mm, helps a lot. Proper bed temperature (if heated), and maybe some stick or spray depending on the material. I used hairspray on my old printer with glass bed and worked like magic.

To deal with the warping/curling you should enable the z-hop (~0.4 - 0.6 mm), because the extruder may collide with curled parts and loosen them. To reduce the curling it's important to have a good layer cooling. Check it and be sure the layer fan is set at 100% speed and you have proper airflow. I improved my prints a lot just changing the stock fan duct.

Hope this helps!

I'm trying very hard to print this without a raft, but the first layer has too many separated small pieces and the printer keeps messing them up: most of them spaghettify and detach immediately. I'm on a Flashforge Adventurer 3, slicing with Flashprint and I tried printing the first layer super slow and thick (like described) but nothing. Any suggestion before I try with the raft?

Thank you very much

Hi!
I don't have experience with that printer and that slicer. Are you using PLA? It seems either adhesion or warping issue. If you already tried my tips, I'm afraid I can't be of additional help. Sorry about that

  • 1 me gusta

the links of the dragon breaks easily any tips to help the walls of the links are gappy

That's usually due to underextrusion on small perimeters. It happened to me a while ago with the octopus, and I solved it tunning the retraction related settings. Depending on the slicer, they are something like "restart distance" and "coasting". Wipping may have some impact too. And as last tip, I like to reduce the speed on small perimeters to have stronger joints (PrusaSlicer has a dedicated setting for this, not sure about the others). Hope this helps!

  • 1 me gusta

okay thanks

What reccomended scale would you say for ender 5 pro 200x200x300 Thanks

Hi!
In my opinion, the bigger the better ;P
You can use the slicer function to max the scale to the build volume, all slicers can do that

They are selling on Aliexpress

Really? Some people don't care at all about others hard work...
Thanks for letting me know

  • 1 me gusta

Hello, I saw it 3d print beeing sold on etsy. Is that even legal ?

Hi!
It's legal if they have my previous authorization, and they state that in the item description. Just a few sellers have an actual agreement, so unfortunately most of the Etsy sellers are not legal. I'm trying to reach as much as I can, but it is a nasty task because some of them doesn't respect the IP and the CC license.
Thanks a lot for your concern ;)

  • 1 me gusta

Most of them don't credit you :(
How can I have your authorization? Do I need to pay a licence or something? Not that I'll sell 3d prints right now, I'm just curious.
(maybe in the future :) )

Well, just asking and making an agreement ;)
However, I'm not giving new authorizations right now. I'm trying to boost the currently authorized sellers, because it's hard to track lots of them

Super model, thank you. I have one problem. When printing for about 14 hours, the printer automatically requests a filament change. it's about 25-30 times. Can you advise me how to remove it. I pushed one but the other was no longer nervous. well thank you

Hi!
What slicer are you using? You probably added a color change setting without noticing. Try slicing it again ;)

I use Prusaslicer, I checked and everything is OK. I tried it through Cura 4.12 and the same. Only where it goes well on the old Geeet i3 for b, but the printing is not perfect.

That's very weird... If you want you can send me the gcodes to mcgybeer@gmail.com and I can take a look

I use Prusaslicer and without issues printed the dragon twice (big and small). At the moment it was version 2.3.3, with Prusa Mini+.
There is new version 2.4, where they have new functionality "apply color change automatically".

Hola e imprimido 3 para mis hijos y me gustaria saber si tienes algun tipo de soporte para que se sostenga levantado.

Hola!
Lamentablemente no tengo ningún soporte especifico.
Yo improvisé un soporte con alambre para las fotos, y he visto que otra gente usa soportes de figuras de acción, que son transparentes y ajustables

ok muchas gracias.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5175460

No tiene mala pinta. Gracias!

What is the size of the dragon? Will it fit my ender 3 v2?

The curled version fits on a 180x180 mm buildplate. On the Ender 3 V2 you can print it at 120-125% scale (it looks better if printed big!)

Is there any chance you could wrap it so it would fit full size on a Photon Mono X? It looks amazing in smoky black resin, but my buildplate is too small and I have to print at around 88% size and the end of the tail binds up. Thanks! Your design is amazing.

Hi!
I'm afraid that the curled version is already the smallest area possible. I've tried to curl it even more, but the legs and the "upper" body are limiting this. Sorry about that

Hi!
Can we print it with a 0.6 nozzle ?
Thanks

Hi!
I haven't tried myself, but I'm quite sure it should work. Let me know if it doesn't and I'll try to help ;)

I will try it! Thanks for your fast reply ;-)
Have a good one!

have you done this cus im about to now lol

Yes I have done it!

Your file has appeared on thingiverse at 10x magnification. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5170457

Thanks for your help! Fortunately it seems it has been already removed

I have a question for you, if you go onto Thingiverse and type "Sea Serpent" it should be one of the top 3, it's pretty much the same as your but has no legs and the circle body goes all around, it also printed in pieces and they are really hard to assemble, how hard would it be for you to replicate that into a 1 piece print.

also, amazing work man, I can't stop printing them.

Hi!
I plan to design more dragons in the future, but can't tell you any expected time yet ;)

  • 1 me gusta

Hey there! I've successfully printed one and it is amazing! Thank you :) However, I'm having trouble with filament grinding in my 3 printers with this model, and I'm thinking it may be because of the huge number of retractions it has. Are you experiencing similar problems? Any particular clue on how to solve it?

Hi!
I had similar issues back in the day when printing my first octopuses. It was all related to the retraction settings, and printing temperature. But haven't happened for relatively new printers, using default profiles.
Hope it helps!

This printed really great on my anycubic mono x in resin. 40 second base layer times, 2 second in between on a flexible magnetic build plate at 80% scale. Love this model!

Hi, I am using Prusa mk3 and prusaslicer, the thing that I did not understand is why this model uses internal infill and solid infill so much for the tail and feet part which is almost 40% of the time. If anyone knows how to reduce without breaking that would make the model 14 hour print to 10 hours. Thanks

Not sure if I understood it correctly. Which infill are you setting? With PrusaSlicer even if you set it to 0% it creates some extra thickness on non vertical walls, due to the "Ensure vertical shell thickness" option. However, disabling this cause horrible prints XD

Hi there, I vent at reptile expos and was wondering if you would be able to sell copyrights to print and sell at them. This would not include altering the model, selling the files or selling online. Please feel free to contact me at SoonerStateExotics@gmail.com Thank you so much for your time and great job on creating this model!

Hi!
Maybe in the future, but right now I'm not looking for new sellers ;)

Heyo!
Printed this Dragon on my Ender 3 Pro and I'm having an issue with the articulation joins cracking and in one dragon actually broke. Is there a setting that would give them more strength?

Print Settings (Cura):
Material: Hatchbox PLA
Layer Height: 0.12mm
Initial Layer Height: 0.3mm
Infill: 1.0%
Nozzle: 205C
Bed: 60C
Retractions: Enabled and 2.0mm distance.
Supports: No.

Here is an image of what I described above: https://imgur.com/a/AXaIrvw
Is there a way to make the hinge tubes solid?

Hi!
Thanks for the picture, it helps a lot. How many walls/perimeters are you using? It looks very very thin, like it's just one wall. For this kind of articulated designs you need at least 2 walls, so it's strong enough. Hope this helps!

  • 2 me gusta

So, in Cura, is the setting you are talking about "Wall line count" which is currently at 1? Also, Wall Thickness is set to 0.5mm, is that correct for this print?

Correct. You should use "Wall line count" of 2 or higher to have strong links. Wall thickness will turn disabled once you set the wall line count, so it doesn't matter.

  • 1 me gusta

recommended infill?

Anyone you want ;)
I've printed mine at 0% and worked perfectly, so feel free to use the infill you feel most comfortable with

  • 1 me gusta

Super 3D model but I don`t know why the small section of the tail fuse together and make the tail not flexible. My printer is the artillery sidewinder X1 and my splicer is Cura. Thank you

Haven't tried that printer, but it should work as well. Have you tried PrusaSlicer?

No but I will try, thank you

Lovely toy!... Thank you!
I had a little tightness in the 'vertebrae' near the tail, but worked them a little and they freed up.
The main question is: Are the legs supposed to be articulated in the most recent version?
I watched it print for a while and it looked like they were going to be hinged, but they really don't want to break loose!
Regards.
Scott

Yes, they should be articulated as well. Please, send me the gcode to mcgybeer@gmail.com and I'll try to investigate the issue ;)

Just finished my first print. The body and head came out amazing but the legs fused. Any suggestion on what setting might have caused this since everything else moves great.

Hi!
Which kind of printer and slicer did you use?

I’m using an Ender 3 V2 and Cura slicer.

Oh, that's weird. I've printed also one with an Ender 3 and it worked perfectly. Please, send me the gcode to mcgybeer@gmail.com and I'll try to investigate the issue ;)

  • 1 me gusta

My sister linked me a video on facebook of someone popping this model off a raft and showing it off. I had to go and find this model and buy it because I was so impressed. So now I have a Cults3D account thanks to the amazing designer and an incredible 3D print of this model! It turned out perfect!!!

A few notes (printed on an Ender 3 Pro with eSun PLA+ on 0.4mm nozzle at 0.2mm layer height:

  • Can totally be printed hollow to save on time/filament (14.5hours at default speeds). It will however drag a few tiny non supported areas from parts like under the eyes around and drop them. But they do not affect the final model from my experience.

  • Didn't need any supports or rafts at all. (Upped my first layer flow rate to 105% and thickness to 0.3mm).

Thank you MCGYBEER!!!

  • 2 me gusta

Thanks a lot for your feedback and tips! It will help other users for sure ;)

  • 1 me gusta

Can this be printed on a "mini" printer, 100mm x 100mm x100 mm and still be articulated, or would that be too small to print?

I assume you are talking about FDM, right? It depends on the quality of the prints you can achieve, so I can't guarantee it will work

  • 1 me gusta

Sorry yes, FDM, my nephew has a little one, does great details, but he really wants to make one of your awesome dragons! So I figured I would ask before purchasing :) Thank you for the prompt response!

My first ever purchased stl and it is absolutley worth it, I hope you make a bit of money off it because it's a true work of art!

My tips for others: I lowered the Z a bit for adhesion, and dropped Z-hop because it made sharp tops. I printed the whiskers with the same settings as the body and they needed just a bit of sanding to fit perfectly. Came out good in both PLA and TPU on my Sovol SV01, haven't made the whiskers in TPU yet.

Very cool print, will be giving one away to my parents for christmas, designated lucky charm for our camper vans :D

Thanks a lot! I'm glad you like it.
And thanks also for the tips and feedback, it will help others for sure ;)

  • 1 me gusta

Just curious what your workflow was like designing it? Would you mind sharing a brief description?

That's a tricky question, because I have a full-time job as electronic engineer, and my 3D design workflow is a chaos hahaha

Usually, I have an unexpected idea, and I think about it for a few weeks. In the process I usually draw some sketches, to define the general shapes and identify possible challenges (overhangs, articulations...). Depending on the difficulty, this takes different times. For the dragon, as an example, I've been thinking about it for 2 years! But it wasn't clear on my mind, so I move on to different designs. Other ones, like the unicorn, were quite straightforward because it's similar to previous designs.
Once the sketches make sense, I identify the new articulations. I design just the articulation and print several tests until it works as expected. Once I'm happy with the mechanical behavior, I start modeling the full design. Usually, I do a couple of iterations of test prints until I'm happy with the design (that's why I uploaded the v2, because v0 and v1 were not perfect). Then I run several prints, at different sizes and with different prints, to be sure that it will work for everyone (at least that's my goal).
The last part it's taking pictures and uploading it.

Hope this makes sense ;)
Regards!

  • 3 me gusta

What would be the tolerence required to print this ?

Not sure about that, nothing special. It can be printed on almost all the printers out there

Hello Ive been trying to print this on my ender 3 v2 and keep having failures, What is your recommended settings for a successful print?

I've been using the default PrusaSlicer settings for the Ender 3 V2. Just changed the first layer speed to 10mm/s for better adhesion. Hope it helps!

This is a wonderful design. Thank you for creating it.

This files making a name for itself. Good job

This has been not only my firsr purchase on this site, this has been my firsr purchase online. Thank you for this amazing model.

  • 2 me gusta

Thanks....Great test and print for my Ratrig V-Cast at 200mm/s. 3000 Accleration. Should only take 5 1/2 hours. LOL

OMG That's insane!

Dang I thought I asked a question here, I'll email it.

Are you ok with people selling this?

There are some authorized sellers, but I'm not giving new permissions right now

My godson saw this design and loved it. So I made it my first purchase from Cults and I'm planning on giving it to him for Christmas. If all goes well, I'll print a bunch of gifts for my friends at Norwescon in April. We nerd love our dragons! Thank you for the design. Great work!

  • 1 me gusta

Thanks!! ;)

Beautiful design! This was my first purchased stl, and it was worth every cent - keep up the good work!

  • 1 me gusta

Oh, what an honor! Thanks a lot! ;)

Bonjour. A quel pourcentage le remplissage ?

It works with any infill, even at 0%. Feel free to use the one you need ;)

I am having problems getting the upper part of the head printed. My nozzle knocks the horns around. I have done 2 prints, one with a larger scale and lower speeds on the top few layers. I also have z hop enabled on both. Any ideas? the prints are perfect otherwise.

I'm almost sure that's warping/curling. If possible, you need to improve the layer cooling. If not, try to reduce even more the speed on that area. PrusaSlicer has a specific parameter for small perimeters speed. Reducing the temperature also helps.
Good luck ;)

Hi, did you manage to solve your issue ? I'm having the exact same issue @0.15mm on a MK3S+ via PrusaSlicer 2.4.0-RC2, nozzle is hitting the horns and that lead's to a X axis shifting 5min before the end of this 15h print :(.
In which orientation where you printing ? I tried with the dragon facing the front of the printer, maybe it will be better to try with the dragon facing the back of the printer ? (better cooling on the horns)

Printed two of these in resin at 80% scale with Creality 006, and they came out perfect. Great model, thank you for this.

Awesome!! Thanks a lot for letting me know ;)

Hey Niholsa, when you printed these did you print direct on print bed (say, if you use a wham bam) or with a support structure? I'm trying to get this one to come out clean on my Phrozen Sonic Mini (admittedly at a fair bit smaller scale than 80%), and I keep getting parts of the model lost to FEP adhesion when trying direct to print bed... so I'm curious if you used supports. :)

(The bits that DID stick moved fine after printing, so that's something. :D)

Nope, no supports or anything, and directly on the printing bed, no quick release or anything. I am using the v2 version of the model, no the 2.3, if that makes a difference. One thing I will note, I have the best luck with the translucent red and green Inland resins, the opaque Inland resins seem to weld themselves to the FEP film when I try them. Of course, your mileage may vary.

Oh, and the first time I tried this, I sliced with anti-aliasing, and the moving joints all fused together.

So far, my mileage is mostly out of gas! :D Thanks for replying, I'll keep trying... and I appreciate the advice on the resins and model version that worked for you. :) I saw a tiny bit of fusing in the finer tail bits (of the parts that did print okay) when I cured, but a slight amount of pressure got them moving, so I was hoping I wasn't too far off... but sounds like I'm missing something fundamental. I'll try some other test prints, see if it's my FEP going or something. (Also thanks Mcgybeer for the awesome design! :) )

Hi, congratulations on your work! What fill percentage would you recommend using?

Hi!
I printed them at 0% infill and they are quite sturdy. However, some infill or extra perimeters will help of they are going to have lot of activity

  • 1 me gusta

Curious what the average print time is for this? Cura and Prusa slicers both estimate just shy of 2 days. I used a fine detail setting, which I know plays a role. Curious if that's even necessary?

That detail level is not necessary, unless you want it that way or if printing really small. At 100% scale and 0.15 mm layer it takes about 14 hours in a Prusa Mini. At 120% and 0.2 mm layer it's about 34 hours in a larger printer.
Hope it helps!

Good I want to say that the 3d model is spectacular, thank you. I wanted to ask how I can print it in resin because I tried but it remained rigid and not articulated :S

I haven't printed on resin yet, but I read about several people who did. If you are scaling the model down, you need to precisely tune your printer settings. If you overexpose the resin, the parts have some horizontal expansion and fuse together. I've read also that antialias also affects on this.

Hope this helps!

  • 1 me gusta

I can't get the feelers / whiskers to insert into the holes located on the sides of his nose. Are they supposed to insert into the holes, or are they simply held in place with glue?

They are supposed to insert, but depending on the printer the tolerance might not be enough, or on the contrary, too much. You can try printing again just the whiskers (mustache?) at a slightly smaller scale. Probably 98% should be enough, or even smaller if they still don't fit.
Hope this helps!

LOL! Now that I think about it, I resized the model but never resized the whiskers. This is 100% user error. :)

  • 3 me gusta

3mf file cannot be sliced in cura 4.12 with my computer. The file is way to heavy. Hopefully the stl works.

Which one is better to print out? the straight one or the curled one ?

It depends on your printer. The curled one is the original design and fits better most of the printers. The straight one was a request from some users to print it on mill printers (like the CR30)

Is there any way to articulate the STL into a more compact shape for even larger scaling? Think like a paperclip shape. I can fold it to that shape after its printed. I'd like to maximize my print volume.

Hi!

It needs some gaps while printing for the parts to be printed separately and don't fuse together. And those gaps are that extra mobility you have when printed. But can't be printed already on that shape, it will increase the probability of failure.

Regards! ;)

Great model, im looking for a articulated model of Toothless from movie How to Train Your Dragon. It would be wonderful if you designed one.

  • 1 me gusta

Printed this on a Saturn resin printer at about 65%. Unfortunately the back ⅓ of the tail is not articulating. Might be settings as they are pretty standard for eSun hard and tough Black (looks amazing). Will try a couple of things. Is it possible for you to split the file so that it can be straight and snap the articulation together after printing?

Hi!
I'm sorry to hear that. I just answered the user below, which has a similar issue (I guess). By not articulating, do you mean they fuse together? As I said to the previous user, you could try printing it in 2 parts and cutting a gap on one of the links with tweezers to be able to assemble it. But I'm afraid it may fall apart.
Good luck!

If the tail was not articulating directly as you removed it from the bed, it likely means you are either a) using anti-aliasing (a bad idea for precise prints), or b) over-exposing your layers with cure times that are longer than necessary. Both of the aforementioned will generally cause expansion of the resin as it prints, often leading to parts that are fused together. I printed this last night on my Saturn at 75% and it worked totally fine. I recommend the XP Resin Validation Test to fine tune your resin exposure settings.

Hi @TRANKILLITY!
Thanks a lot for the explanation and the tips. I am usually using anti-aliasing, but I'll take that into account next time. Didn't realize it could cause expansion, and it makes a lot of sense.
Have a nice day!

  • 1 me gusta

Do you have the body parts separated into individual files so I can print and snap together? I can only scale to 48% which is too small to print details and loses articulation?

  • 1 me gusta

Hi!
I'm sorry to hear that. Do you mean they broke or get fused together? The parts can't be printed separately, because the links are closed loops. One thing I did while testing the model is print some parts individually, so I can see how they look, and then I cut a small gap on the vertical link with tweezers. However, it ended falling apart. I haven't printed it myself in resin yet, but I've seen several people printing it at 50%. Maybe you can reach them to ask for printing parameters.
Good luck!

How large is the file?

The STL is 33MB, and the 3MF is about 10MB

Which software do you use to make those dragons?

I use Blender and a graphic tablet

Which software do you use to make those dragons?

If I buy the file do I have permission to sell these online?

Hi!
I'm sorry, my designs have non-commercial license (CC BY-NC-ND 4.0)
Thanks for asking ;)

no problem. thanks for responding. if you decide to sell commercial licensing for it let me know. I realy like your designs.

Just to be sure. This design too is licensed CC BY-NC-ND 4.0 ? Because there is no license information at the top of the page, implying All rights reserved.

Can you explain what you updated in a little more detail, please? I’m not sure if I want to reprint or not.

I just added a straight version of the model. The design is exactly the same, so no need to reprint ;)