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CALIBRE DE PRECISIÓN IMPRESIÓN 3D DIY

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Calidad de creación: 4,5/5 (17 votos)
Evaluación de los miembros: imprimibilidad, utilidad, detalles, etc.
  • 19,9k vista
  • 206 me gusta
  • 176 descargas

Descripción del modelo 3D

¡Hola a todos! Soy un nuevo usuario y este es mi primer producto de diseño en este sitio web. Tengo el placer de presentaros el CALIBRE DE PRECISIÓN DIY. Para hacer este calibre hay que tener una impresora en un estado no malo. ¡Yo imprimí este producto en mi Ender 3 Pro sin ninguna mejora!

Para hacer el calibre de precisión sólo debes tener (disponible en cualquier tienda de bricolaje):

  • 2 tornillos M3x25,

  • M3x16 con cabeza concical,

  • 3 tuercas M3,

  • 2 arandelas (también puedes imprimirlas).

Especificación:

  • unidad mm,

  • precisión +/-0,1 mm,

  • resolución 0,05 mm,

  • longitud de medición 110 mm.

Por favor, visite la película en youtube. Allí se mostró cómo funciona el CALIPER PRECISON y cómo montarlo:

https://youtu.be/HpKV71Kowjg

Si tienes algún problema con el buen funcionamiento de este producto, recuerda que siempre puedes escalar cada de las piezas, como las ruedas. En otros casos, por favor, póngase en contacto conmigo, voy a tratar de ayudarle.

Todos los derechos reservados; se prohíbe la copia, reproducción y distribución sin el consentimiento previo del propietario ©.


Parámetros de impresión 3D

Cada de piezas que imprimí con esta configuración:

  • Material: PLA

  • Altura de la capa: 0.2mm

  • Boquilla: 0.4mm

  • Relleno: 20%.

Tiempo total de construcción: ~6,5 horas

Filamento total: ~0,032kg (~10 m 1,75 mm)

Utilizo el soporte sólo en 'piñón lineal' y 'dial'.

  • Formato de archivo 3D: STL
  • Fecha de publicación: 2021/05/30 12:06

Copyright

©

Palabras-clave

Creador

Design 1
Descargadas 176
Ventas 440 US$
Seguidores 30

Hi everybody! My name is Albert and welcome to my profile. I love design gears and another kinematic mechanisms.

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10 comentarios

Hi, great design. When I move the caliperforward and backwards the nuts seem to come off. How have you prevented that in your build?

Hi. Great question. I used self-locking nuts. This is very popular solution. You can also protect nuts or screws using some glue. Regards

This is pretty cool. My shop is setup with inches. Any chance you're working on an inch version?

No, I'm not working on caliper in inch but I don't exclude that I will done in the future. Now I don't have a free time.

i think this is way to expensive. why are you so greedy?

FR1DAY I see you don't realize how much time it takes to design such parts. I'm sorry you say that. If you think the price is too expensive, please don't buy. Although I suspect you would like it for free.

No actually i am always willing to pay something for useful stuff.
But this is no "invention" or something, its just a typical design from a dial caliper.
As i can buy digital calipers for around 6€-10€ in a local store, i think its not worth buying a design for 3€ which is only working perfectly on a perfectly calibrated printer.
So yeah, i think 1€ would be fine as there are similar designs for free.

4 bucks is cheap considering the cad work. 2nd yeh you probs should have a perfect calibrated printer to print calipers.... your lucky its not sls or sla. lack of calibration skill sounds like a personal problem. pro tip use a smaller nozzle.....

UPDATE. I have since made adjustments on the slicer to compensate for dimension inaccuracy. I have reprinted the caliper and it works great! For the people who want to get the best results, it is important that your printer is dimensionally accurate. Albert thank you for the time you spent creating this tool.

D52PERRY you chossed not simple product to started adventure with 3D printing :)
When I was designing PRECISION CALIPER I included loose tolerance to could make this product on 3D printer. If your printer isn't in good condition, such us not calibrate flowrate, it has problem with elephant foot, tension belts is to loose etc., it could appear problems with not smooth movements.
Simple solution of this problems is to scaling part/parts in order to increase fits and clearances. Please write me an e-mail to: alberto17@interia.pl. It would be best, when you attach some photos and films after assembly and before. Write also settings what do you use: diameter of nozzle, layer height, infill, do you use brim or raft or nothing. I wll help you.

I use sandpaper only to align areas in 'depth guage', jaws in 'linear sprocket' and 'sleeve'. I thing is important to remove sharp edge on the bottom of parts (on the first layer) in 'linear sprocket' and ' sleeve'.

You know that you can just reply to comments, right?

FR1DAY of course. I see that you are new user:) This is a new function who were introduced a few days ago. I think is definitely a better solution :)

I am new in 3d printing. I used PLA. I don't know if you did any sanding or not. The linear rail and slider were stiff from the get go. Yours were very smooth
All the movements on yours are smooth. Mine did not come out that way.

D52PERRY Please watch film on youtube with assembling and tell me in what moment the problem appears. Remember that all the parts must working as shown on youtube, for example the "sleeve" must loosely slide on the "linear sprocket".

So I printed the STL's on a Flashforge creator pro 2. I was able to put it together and applied some lubricant. I couldn't get it to work properly. Also it would get stuck on the clog

SIMONTILLEMA thank you for your comment. I encourage you to express the opinion of the people who printed and assemblied this caliper. Tell mi if you have some problem to do this.
Regards Albert

It's crazy bud! Thank you very much! Totally worth it's money. As QC engineer and 3D printing hobbyist, this totally is what I love.


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