
hi again , i got your message about the prince tile and fixed it . here is the link to the new tile . since you downloaded it before just click the old link on your download folder .. https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/art/prince-comic-book
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hi again , i got your message about the prince tile and fixed it . here is the link to the new tile . since you downloaded it before just click the old link on your download folder .. https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/art/prince-comic-book
Thank you. I appreciate that. Looks GREAT!
hi and thanks for your message , i made this tile by request and so here is the link . thank you for asking ! https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/art/garbage-pail-kids-disgrace
one tile and one night light tile .. if you need anything else please leave a message !
lol... thank you.
Possible to make this file a bit cheaper by excluding the kool aid man?
You mean you just want the brick wall?
Greatness Pride month...perfection
huh?
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/home/a-christmas-story-leg-lamp-biggerized
Hello! Looking to sell this^ print in particular at a local vendor mall here in spokane, WA. Thanks for your time.
Sure :)
Thank you!
Hola tuve problemas con la impresión de lela chibi de futurama, me quedan como rulos las manos
I'm sorry. I don't speak Spanish, but through Google Translate... what do you mean that Leela's hands look like curlers?
That is to say that the hands do not print well and it came out as curlers in the hands, would it have to be printed lyng down? Or it has be with support, i made 3 attempts and his hands went wrong:(
Oh, yeah... she would need supports, especially for her hands and her hair.
Would you be willing to send the original print in place nipple clamp file? I’ve been looking around for it and haven’t been able to find it
I'll have to find it, but yeah... give me a day or two and I'll get that for you.
Sorry it took so long. I had to find the original file I used. I have added it for you here - https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/two-piece-nipple-clamp ...
I love your self-rewinding cord model. I am a mentor for a First Robotics Competition team and want to use this or a modification of this for a spool of power and ethernet wires that will have to extend 5' out during competition. I was wondering how the spring part attaches to the center split spool to make it auto-retract? I might disassemble a tape ruler or get a spring similar to yours if you think this will work for pull-out and retract about 3' on each side consistently. Might have to modify it to have 4 level spool (2 for each kind of wire). Thoughts?
So the spring I'm using has a hook on the inner end and that hooks into a slot cut into the reel. I used this reliably for a couple of years in my shop until something broke and I haven't had a chance to take it apart to see what. If it can hold up in my shop around gas, oil and all manner of abuse, it should be fine in a robotic competition. lol. Another passion of mine, by the way :) www.RobotsAndComputers.com
I don't see any reason why two more levels wouldn't work. You would have to be sure to pull the cable on both levels equally, though, and unless you have two people doing it - one pulling from each end - it could get difficult. If that makes sense?
I never thought about a tape measure spring... I had plenty of spare recoil springs laying around.. but that might actually work better since they are probably thinned and you might could get more revolutions out of it.
Is it posibel to get permission to sell the models I print of your designs.. ?
Its just for fun to freinds and mabey on a local Market in town
Any models in particular?
Hi, im a ups driver, Do you have the stl for the whole truck
? thanks
I don't but this is the model I used - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31686
Dear Sir or Madam,
We are writing to you on behalf of the company UNITED PARCEL SERVICE OF AMERICA, INC. (hereinafter, UPS), in our capacity as its counsels and would be grateful if you would give full consideration to the present notification.
Please be informed that UPS has several trademark registrations at the European Union Intellectual Property Office (EUIPO), including no. 000173559, no. 000173617 and no. 000173666.
We have learned that you are offering a downloadable file for 3D printing through this website in the following link: https://cults3d.com/es/modelo-3d/juegos/ups-truck-repaired-front-wheel. The downloadable file reproduces a UPS TRUCK – REPAIRED FRONT WHEEL in which the UPS registered trademarks are reproduced.
We wish to inform you that the offer of this files without the permission of UPS represents a serious damage to the brand, which sees its exclusive rights of Industrial Property infringed.
In light of the above, we kindly ask you to remove the mentioned downloadable file.
Thank you for the attention to this matter and for your cooperation in the removal of the file.
Best regards,
UPS representatives
hope that link works for the pic im trying to show but if not , the error im being thrown is there are "warning empty layers detected, the output would not be printable."
gives me a height at 29.72 where the model splits..
also says this could be caused by small extrusions or a faulty model, to which i have tried to download again under a different folder name when i extracted from zip folder.
hope this info helps
That link isn't showing an image but I kinda saw the second image - it was too small. I'm not really sure what I can do since netfabb reports it's solid. What slicer are you using? Maybe try a different slicer and see what happens?
no worries it still prints at stanard height for super slicer. it has a auto repair that cant be turned off sadly
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/home/gothic-skull-candle
Seem to be having trouble or printing the base at 0.12 layer height.
The file looks good but only will work on standard detail.
I’ve been editing it and repairing the broken vertices but still a little more work left to fix it for fine details in super slicer.
Only part I had issue with.
What kind of trouble are you having? I'll take a look at the file and see what's going on?
I ran the base.stl through netfab and it reports no issues with the file - https://imgur.com/a/Tn3MPBd ... Could it be that the file you downloaded was corrupted?
dunno if the other link will work or not
Hello! I came across a Sam model from Trick r Treat a while back and was stupid enough to not download it. Now, after quite a while of looking for it, I was sent to your account. I hope it is correct that this was your file, and my question then would be, is there any way I can still find it to download?
It wasn't my file, but I never knew who's it was. I was contacted by the designer and asked/told to remove it. I don't remember who it was, but if you want to give me your email address, I can send it to you.
Hi. Can I contract you to modify one of your designs for my use?
Sure.
Cool. Do you have a good email for me to contact you?
OH. I thought I had that in the profile. Sorry. It's rebeltaz@RobotsAndComputers.com
Sorry about that. This was auto imported from thingiverse and it must not have gotten all of the details. Here is the missing information:
Notes:
Print the top piece upside down and it will print without supports. For the bottom piece, you will need supports enabled for everywhere to support the LED clip.
As for resolution, I printed the bottom piece and the legs at 0.2mm. The top piece was printed at 0.3mm since there wasn't any real detail there.
For the back light, I used this - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H36HLAK - At 10 pieces for $7 (at the time of my purchase), you cannot go wrong. You will need to solder the power supply wires to the chip, since there was not enough room to model in a USB connector. With the LEDs facing up and the USB pads towards you, positive is on the right and negative is on the left. The two middle pads are unused.
Fresh off the printer, the light is brighter at the bottom and darker at the top - which I expected. To counteract this, I lined the inside of the "top" piece with aluminum foil tape - the type used for A/C duct work. I placed one strip across the top and two strips side by side up and down the rear panel. This was enough to reflect the light and even out any dim areas. You might want to place a strip on each of the side panels too, just for better coverage.
For the pins that hold the legs on, you can use 3mm filament if you have any laying around. If not, I have included pegs that you can print. The two shorter pins go in the two front holes. The rest are all the same, longer, length.
Hi, on your "Lithophane Display Case - Portrait Mode" design what light setup did you use?
Your electrical boxes, would it be ok to use it in a design for an outdoor power distribution box? Will be posting on cults when I am done
Sure. That's fine.
Thank you. That purple was the first filament I ever purchased. The X-axis, of my machine is highly modified with custom parts - some of my own design, some I found on Thingiverse - as is the rest of my printer. If you are just looking for spare parts like the originals, I have uploaded these to my server here - www.RobotsAndComputers.com/3d.models/Tevo.upgrade-parts/Tarantula Part STLs/Tarantula_Part_STLs.zip - If you are interested in the upgrades instead, let me know and I will get a list of those together for you.
Hi
Do you have a complete set of replacement parts or the Tevo Tatantula ( like your x axsis? )
The plastic that came on the tevo is very fragile and breaks!
I really like the purple you printed your part in!
Thanks