27 comments

Hi, thanks mate

For the AAP:
to be honest, to make it thicker, i would need do redesign the whole thing and start from the beginning, which needs a decent amount of time, that i currently dont have, so i cant promise a release date for the update. Since the main body is just for aesthetics, you could try to print it in TPU, then it would handle shots much better

For the M4 Receiver: do you mean the upper or the lower? Because especially on the lower, i already made the walls thicker compared to commercial airsofts

Best regards

Hi,
the suppressor has an inner diameter of 12mm, so if you plan to use for covering up a longer inner barrel, it should be totally fine

Ideal, cheers for answering so fast, would there be any chance you could make a 240mm and 300mm long version?

which one would you need in these lengths, Type A or Type B (over outer barrel or not)?
Also, the outer diameter of 39.5mm is fine?

CCW threaded outer barrel for attaching silencer, needs to be slightly bigger than 6.08 to fit over the barrel (the inner tube), the outer diameter is okay as 39.5mm

There you go, i just made a 240mm version, you can download it from this link:

https://we.tl/t-1TM0CgN1NP

Please let me know, if that is what you needed. It is just the can without the cap, to get the caps or to show your appreciation, please purchase the modular suppressor.
If the 240mm version is fine for you, i will also make a 300mm one

Best regards

Thank you very much i really appreciate it, ill purchase the file shortly, id like to pay you more than the model price as youve been really helpful, im going to print a section tonight to test fit and update. would you be able to do any changes if needed after iv test fitted?

No problem, good idea to start printing with a small section. I sure can do more adjustments if needed.
Really no need to pay me more, but if you want to, you can have a look at my other files, maybe there is something else you would have fun printing ;)

Hey mate, only just got round to printing the section, I forgot about the two flat sides on the end of the gun, could you reduce the diameter by 5mm please and the tips to suit the scale.

Hi, yes i can but i will need some time for that

No worries mate, thank you, I really appreciate it

Hey there, i did the adjustment and reduced the diameter by 5mm. Here's the link:

https://we.tl/t-q97iJmdVeS

for the tips, try scaling them down to 87% X-Axis & Y-Axis in your slicer, then they should fit the new diameter

Hello,
what exactly doesnt work? if the gears are somewhat stuck, try loosen them one by one with pliers. Also spraying lubricant between the gears and the box can help a lot with loosening the mechanism

Try breaking it apart by some up and down force. Spraying lubricant can also help a lot to loosen the mechanism. I found out that silk filament for exmample has a kind of sticky surface and needs some lubricant, whereas with normal filament i dont have that problem.
If the gear is totally fused together, try reducing the flow rate in the slicer and stop the print, when the bottom gear is done, so that you dont have to print the whole box everytime to find out the right print settings.

Thanks I’ll try that!

Hallo, danke fürs Downloaden ;-)
eine Feder wird unter den arm_lever platziert, dieser hat für diesen Zweck auch ein kleines Loch. Die zweite Feder stellt den pivot_lever zurück, dieser hat auch eine kleine Ausnehmung/Nut für die Feder.
Bezüglich dem Gummi habe ich Fotos bei den Design-Bildern ergänzt
LG

Hello, which box do you mean?

PORTES TOURNANTES À ENGRENAGES BOÎTE D'IMPRESSION EN PLACE

No i do not recommend printing at 50%, since the tolerances would likely be too tight, which results in a non functional mechanism. With print in place parts it is not easy to scale the part to every desired size

D'accord merci pour l'info

Hello, unfortunately there is no video but in the descripion i described the assembly steps

Hello,
yes i actually do think, that this could be the cause of the fused outside gear. When I tried printing it at 0.32mm layer height, mine was also very tight and limited in motion, however when printed with 0.25mm it works flawlessly.
I needed to make the tolerances tight, because otherwise the play would be too big, which then results in loose and slipping gears
Also gently try breaking the parts apart, maybe the fusage is just at a small fraction of the gear

Hi, thanks for downloading the bipod.
i just realised, that 2 of the 3 leg sizes dont have the correct orientation when loaded into the slicer. Take the "long" legs for reference, they should be flat in the slicer. If placed flat, then no supports are needed for the legs.
Infill doesnt matter that much if you print at least 5 perimeters

Thank you i printet them flat like the long legs, but it is really tight, i cant put the smal leg into the hollow one. Also where is the 4 springs supposed to be and how long should they be.. it would be really nice if you could make a youtube video or something on how to put it all together. :)

Check if your first layer is clean and has no elephant foot, maybe thats because it wont fit. You can also try to slightly scale the leg down in your slicer. One spring goes under the arm_lever (it has a hole for the spring) and one goes inside the pivot lever (it has a cutout for the spring.
I can make an assembly video, but this will take a few days, because i am currently not at home ;)

Yes i figured out every screw and spiral, so you dont have to make a video i guess :)
Now i am only thinking of the rubber band, where to put it, how long and how strong.. dont want it to be floppy and loose when the arm is in the shortest... When it comes to the legs not fitting, i will try to sant the inner leg a little and se if it will work.

Hello, please take a look at the pictures of the design, there i showed, where to cut the supports with a knife.
Also if it won't turn, try grabbing the gears on the bottom with pliers and loosen them one by one

Hi and thanks for the reply..yeah I cut them off and all gears are loose and ready to move but the main grip outer ring just won't move...I've watched your vid alot so I see what should be moving and what shouldn't I just can't get it to go..I've popped loose the parts that would stop it from moving but no luck... beautiful model and printed very easily I'm just stuck as to what's holding it ....I broke off a few of the doors so I can get to the root of the problem and problem solve so the next print will move but I can't see anything

Hello,
the gold accents were made, by guiding gold raw 1.75mm filament through the gear rods, so this can be done post printing. You can also find this in the assembly video :)

Not the gear/filament but the triangle doors that you put on at the very end. It looks like a single triangle but has two different colors

Ahh sorry, didnt' read your first message carefully. I achieved the two colored doors by switching filament mid print. If you printer offers the opportunity to pause the print, then you can use that to exchange the colors at the desired layer

Hello, i used regular PLA and infill doesnt really matter, if you configure 5 perimeters or more, because if you use that many perimeters, the slicer wont draw infill for most of the parts anyway.

Hi, maybe your first layers suffer the elephant foot, because of a too hot printing bed, could that be? If thats the case, try sanding down or cutting the excess material of the first layers of both the handguard and the barrel nut

One more thing: I personally love the Celtic knots on the sides of the box and think thy take it over the top- BUT since the gears and all are somewhat... Sci-fi? I would love either a blank variant, or one with a geometric step pattern, hexagon, or something more science like.

I have a glow in the dark filament that prints a bit like frosted glass where you can see some of the support structure inside, so thought doing the main body in that with black accents would look like something from Star Wars.

Hi, thanks for printing my design and your design inputs. I will add a plain version of the box and will also think about some different design patterns to add as well ;)
Regarding your problem with gears: personally i have never had a problem with them and have already printed a few. What resolution did you print the upper gear (nozzle diameter and layer height)?

I printed it at a .16 layer height, with a .4 nozzle on a Bambu X1C in a silk PLA. Any other settings that might be important? I can send a video somehow if that helps. (And you have an idea where I can send it.)

Did you assemble the gears clockwise from 1 to 7?

Good question, yes I did.

ok then maybe the parts need a little tighter tolerances for your printer, i will adjust the gears and send you a link to download, if you could test these, then i can update the cults file
..i am currently at work so i will need some time, i expect to send you the link in the afternoon (it is currently 8am in Austria ;-)

Oh awesome, thanks so much. I will print asap and let you know how it works! It’s 12:30am here, so I wouldn’t see it till morning anyway. :)

Finished, i slightly reduced the tolerances of the gears and testprinted them. With the ones that i printed, there is no way of slipping, unless i want to break the gears ;-)
I am curious if this will help with your loose gears as well.
Heres the link to download the new stl:

https://we.tl/t-ymYcB0YSC8

If they still are too loose, i would recommend you to slightly scale them up with your slicer, maybe your filament has more shrinkage. Keep me posted ;-)

Just printed the new gears and haven't put new doors on yet, but they work like a dream. Thanks again for the modification and quick replies, very appreciated. If you are still willing to add the blank sided version of the box i would love one!

Nice, glad to hear that! I already made a plane version and some other designs, i will now update the files, thanks for your help with testing. Also i would love to see your finished print, so if you could post a make, i would really appreciate it ;-)

I will today for sure!

Done! I will be sure to upload the blank-walled version too. Really man- great design.

Thanks a lot :)

Do you mind, if I take one of your pictures to add to the design description?..yours printed so nicely!

I don’t mind!

Hey Its me again- I was very excited to see the additional designs! I knew for sure I wanted to do an Empire one in white and Red- but i have printed 2 of the box itself and the rods seem to be fused. The first one, I had an unrelated issue that messed up the print when it was nearly done so figured it was related, but the second time I printed it came off fine- just wont turn. Any chance what you did to reduce the tolerances for the gears on the lid also changed the tolerances for the rods?

Hi, oh no thats unfortunate. However when i did changes to the gears, this had no effect to the other files, because those were two different projects in my CAD-software. Any chance, that you can brake the rods free with some tilting around?
Where did it fuse, top or bottom?

ah thanks for confirming. Its a newer filament for me, and that could be the beginning and end of it. I will play around an let you know! Appreciate you being so responsive.

Hallo again, i printed one more box myself with slightly different print settings and achieved some fused rods as well. However these could easily be unfused, by taking pliers and twisting the top end of the gear rod. Maybe this helps with your box as well

The pliers trick worked for me without damaging the gears really- didn’t think it would but it unstuck and works great now. Upload a white and red make I think turned out pretty good! (and added a few pictures with a black background to the first one too.)

Great, thanks for sharing!

Hi, thanks a lot for telling me. However it is not exactly my design, they are selling. The drillkit for the aap01 already existed on the airsoft market i just designed one myself, because i have a 3D-printer. Anyways thanks again for keeping an eye open ;-)

Hi, i have a first prototype of the upper receiver but it is not finished to be released yet

Hello, i just finished the upper receiver and uploaded it to cults

Hi, it is designed to print fine without supports. There are overhangs but only in straight lines, which are no problem for the printer. If you slice the part and look at the bottom of the box for example, you will see, that the printer will first make straight grid like overhangs before printing the rest of the bottom.

Thank you for the fast response, you saved me a day of printing

You're welcome :-)

Currently not

Hi, what design are you talking about?

The print in place hexagon box? Just wandering by the position on the print bed in pictures. How does it print the bottom of the box? Without support?

Yes it prints totally fine without supports. The bottom is seperated into multiple overhang layers, so that the bottom isn't printed all in one layer. This helps to print flawless overhangs. You can actually see the grid pattern of the bottom, if you look at the GIF-picture of the hex box

Hello, i am planning on releasing the upper receiver as well, but it is not finished yet

Hello,
i am sorry to hear that. Maybe your material has a little mor shrinkage, than the one, that i testet.
I recommend you to slightly scale the gears up in your slicer. You could start with 101% (1% upscaled) and the smallest of the 3 gears, so that you dont waste filament. If you found the correct scaling factor with the smallest of the gears you can use the same for the other two.
Was that helpful?

Hi,
no problem, i can add a version without the logo on it

Perfect, thanks!